Introduction
System76 provides laptops, desktops, servers, and accessories. This book contains technical documentation for System76 hardware. The source can be viewed on GitHub.
Current Models
- Adder WS (addw3)
- Bonobo WS (bonw15)
- Darter Pro (darp8)
- Galago Pro (galp6)
- Gazelle (gaze18)
- Kudu (kudu6)
- Launch (launch_2)
- Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_1)
- Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)
- Lemur Pro (lemp12)
- Meerkat (meer6)
- Oryx Pro (oryp10)
- Oryx Pro (oryp9)
- Pangolin (pang12)
- Serval WS (serw13)
- Thelio (thelio-b4)
- Thelio Major (thelio-major-r3)
- Thelio Massive (thelio-massive-b1.2)
- Thelio Mega (thelio-mega-r1.0)
- Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-b1.0)
- Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r3.0)
Previous Models
- Adder WS (addw2)
- Adder WS (addw1)
- Bonobo WS (bonw14)
- Darter Pro (darp7)
- Darter Pro (darp6)
- Galago Pro (galp5)
- Galago Pro (galp4)
- Gazelle (gaze17)
- Gazelle (gaze16)
- Gazelle (gaze15)
- Launch (launch_1)
- Lemur Pro (lemp11)
- Lemur Pro (lemp10)
- Lemur Pro (lemp9)
- Meerkat (meer5)
- Oryx Pro (oryp8)
- Oryx Pro (oryp7)
- Oryx Pro (oryp6)
- Pangolin (pang11)
- Pangolin (pang10)
- Serval WS (serw12)
- Thelio Major (thelio-major-b1/b2/r1/r2)
- Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r1.0)
Adder WS (addw3)
The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
- BIOS
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050
- eDP display:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-N4K (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel options:
- BOE NV173FHM-N4C
- BOE NE173FHM-NX1
- BOE NV173FHM-NY2
- ...or other equivalent
- LCD panel options:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
- Bluetooth 5.3
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
- Power
- 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
- DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-280P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C13
- 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSDs
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 (Type C)
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 (Type A)
- 1x USB 2.0
- Dimensions
- 15": 2.71cm x 35.95cm x 23.8cm, 2.05kg
- 17": 2.82cm x 39.69cm x 26.2cm, 2.85kg
Adder WS (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Materials:
Part | Material | Part Number |
---|---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Plastic | • 15": 6-39-NP501-024 • 17": 6-39-PD701-023 or 6-39-PD711-021 |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic | • 15": 6-39-NP501-033 • 17": 6-39-PD701-012 |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic | • 15": 6-78-NP50SNE2-010 • 17": 6-78-PD70SNEG2-010 |
Bottom panel | Plastic | • 15": 6-39-NP5S3-012 • 17": 6-39-PD7S3-012 |
LED indicators
The Adder WS has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
![]() | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
![]() | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
![]() | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Adder WS (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- LCD panel connector (under the heatsink) is highlighted in light green
- Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
- RAM slots are highlighted in navy
- Fan connectors are highlighted in red
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- Wireless card is highlighted in purple
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
- Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
- BIOS flash chip (U65) is highlighted in black
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard adhesive strip access point is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
- Replacing the speakers
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Adder WS 3 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the four battery screws near the corners of the battery.
- Also remove any clear tape hanging onto the battery from the fan wires.
- Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove and replace the battery.
- When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the bottom, and the black wire goes on the top.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the outermost SSD.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the outermost SSD is optional.
- Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
- Replace the bottom panel and power up the Adder WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Adder WS 3 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.
If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
- Some tape may be underneath the heatsink; it can alternatively be removed after removing the heatsink.
- Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
- The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
- Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted yellow above).
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
- Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.
Warning: The keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is possible that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Hard ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
- The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
- If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
- Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
- Pull the adhesive strip slowly to avoid breaking it. Grasp farther down the strip as it comes out of the machine (don't pull the end far away from the machine.)
- If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red below) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again.
- Replace the bottom panel.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the left speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
- Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.
- The latches may be covered by clear tape; peel back or remove the tape.
- Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
- The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
- Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
- Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
- Replace the main battery and bottom cover.
Steps to replace the right speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- The outermost SSD can optionally be removed for easier access to the speaker connector.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull the speaker off of the plastic posts.
- Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
- Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.
Bonobo WS (bonw15)
The System76 Bonobo WS is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090
- TGP: 150W (175W boost)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080
- TGP: 150W (175W boost)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090
- eDP display options:
- 17.3" 3840x2160@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NE173QUM-NY1 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 3840x2160@144Hz LCD
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 2x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
- Networking
- 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
- Bluetooth 5.1
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
- Power
- 330W (19.5V, 16.42A) DC-in ports
- DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A20-330P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C13
- 99Wh 8-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 330W (19.5V, 16.42A) DC-in ports
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 3x M.2 PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- USB
- 2x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- Dimensions
- 2.49cm x 39.6cm x 27.8cm, 3.29kg
Bonobo WS (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Aluminum |
Bottom panel | Aluminum |
LED indicators
The Bonobo WS has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Bonobo WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
![]() | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
![]() | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
![]() | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Bonobo WS (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
- Wireless card is highlighted in navy
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
- All slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
- Left speaker connector (on the right) is under SSD slot 3
- BIOS flash chip (U58) is highlighted in black
- Main battery connector is highlighted in red
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- RAM is highlighted in maroon
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connectors are highlighted in green
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
- Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in cyan
Bonobo WS (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Bonobo WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the speakers
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives or Kensington locks) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
- Slide the back strip off the back of the machine.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the back.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the four screws along the top of the battery.
- Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery, starting from the top edge with screw holes.
- When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the bottom edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
- When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.
Replacing the RAM:
The Bonobo WS 15 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to three M.2 SSDs. All M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Bonobo WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Hold the card down and replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the comptuer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery.
- Replace the SSDs and wireless card (if necessary) and the bottom panel.
- Power up the Bonobo WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Bonobo WS 13 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.
If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
- Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
- Screws #1-#12 are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. Screw #13 is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
- Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- Remove any clear tape covering the fan wires.
- The tape covering the wireless card antennas may also need to be removed.
- Unplug the black fan connectors from the motherboard.
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
- Plug the black fan connectors back into the motherboard and (optionally) replace the clear tape.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the left speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
- Remove the two screws holding the audio daugherboard onto the chassis, then flip the audio daughterboard over towards the motherboard.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Unscrew the two speaker screws, free the speaker wire from the channels in the chassis, and remove the speaker.
- Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
- Replace the audio daughterboard and bottom cover.
Steps to replace the right speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Unscrew the two speaker screws and remove the speaker.
- Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard.
- Replace the bottom cover.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard includes per-key RGB LED backlighting, and can be replaced using the instructions below.
Warning: Removing the keyboard may cause permanent aesthetic damage to the underside of the keyboard, particularly if the adhesive strip is not fully removed first. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver; tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
- The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
- If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
- Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
- If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The largest ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cables are for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again.
- Replace the bottom cover.
Darter Pro (darp8)
The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 12th Generation (Alder Lake) CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B256E flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B256E flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel options:
- AUO B156HAN02.5
- BOE NV156FHM-N4H
- or other equivalent
- LCD panel options:
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4b over USB-C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
- 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-ion battery
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 1.99cm x 35.7cm x 22.05cm, 1.74kg
Darter Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Materials:
Part | Material | Part Number |
---|---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Magnesium-aluminum alloy | 6-39-NS501-022 or 6-39-NS511-020 |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic | 6-39-NS501-012 |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic | 6-78-NS50PU02-010 |
Bottom panel | Magnesium-aluminum alloy | 6-39-NS503-014 |
LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged |
Keyboard shortcuts:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Darter Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- RAM slots are highlighted in purple
- Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
- Fan connector is highlighted in red
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
- Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
- Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
- Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in brown
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Lid switch/sensor connector is highlighted in olive
- BIOS flash chip (U19) is highlighted in black
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
- Lid switch/sensor to motherboard connector is highlighted in cyan
Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
- Replacing the battery
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 16 bottom panel screws:
- 12 perimeter screws (thin), highlighted green below.
- 2 keyboard screws (thick), highlighted yellow.
- 2 inner hinge screws (thick), highlighted red.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Darter Pro 8 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- SSD-1 is closest to the battery (pictured on the left.)
- SSD-2 is closest to the outer edge of the machine (on the right.)
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- If a square thermal pad was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)
- If you are replacing the CMOS battery, remove SSD-1 to expose the CMOS battery, then pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Darter Pro 8 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink are a single part (they should not be replaced separately from one another.)
If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Peel back the black tape holding the fan to the chassis, and remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Unplug the black fan connector.
- This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.
- Remove the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.
- Remove the fan and heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery.
- The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
- A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
- If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
- Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
- Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.
- Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.
Galago Pro (galp6)
The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 12th Generation (Alder Lake-U) CPUs
- BIOS
- Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Panda LM140LF2L02 (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
- 53Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
- HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
- SD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
- 2x USB 3.2 (Gen 1) Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 32.49cm x 22.5cm x 1.82cm, 1.45kg
Galago Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Plastic |
LED indicators
The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low |
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F4 | Cycle keyboard backlight brightness |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Galago Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- RAM slots are highlighted in purple
- M.2 SSD is highlighted in maroon
- Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- BIOS flash chip (U43) is highlighted in black
- Fan connectors are highlighted in red
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in dark green
- Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
- EC chip is highlighted in cyan
- ITE IT5570E-128 2205-EXA 1A1RB
Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Removing the battery
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the speakers
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 14 bottom panel screws.
- The two hinge corner screws (highlighted red below) are slightly thicker than the rest.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.
- Unplug the battery connector (highlighted cyan above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Replacing the RAM:
The Galago Pro 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, PCIe NVMe Generation 4 (or Generation 3).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green above.)
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and main battery, and replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the speakers:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the battery and remove the SSD.
- Unscrew the speaker screws.
- Each speaker has two screws, which are set inside of rubber rings to reduce vibration.
- Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard and lift the speaker out of the machine.
- The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
- Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the SSD and battery (if necessary) and bottom panel.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Galago Pro 6 has a single heatsink with two fans for the CPU and integrated GPU. Both fans are separate from the heatsink and can be replaced independently.
If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
- Unplug the white fan connector (highlighted below) for each fan you are removing from the system.
- Remove the two fan screws (highlighted green above) for each fan you are removing.
- Replace the fans, screw in the two fan screws for each fan, and plug the white fan connectors into the system.
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the fan closest to the CPU.
- Removing the fan is optional, but is recommended to ensure the fan properly overlaps the heatsink's air guide after reinstallation.
- Remove the four heatsink screws (highlighted cyan below) in order, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #4.
- Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each die of the CPU chip.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the four heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #4.
- Replace the fans and bottom panel.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws, highlighted green below.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine upright and flip the keyboard down onto the touchpad. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Gazelle (gaze18)
The System76 Gazelle is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Raptor Lake CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- Dedicated GPU:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
- TGP: 70W (95W boost)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
- Integrated GPU:
- Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- eDP display:
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel options:
- BOE NV173FHM-N4C
- BOE NE173FHM-NX1
- BOE NV173FHM-NY2
- BOE NE173QHM-NY3
- ...or other equivalent
- LCD panel options:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel options:
- BOE NV156FHM-N4K
- BOE NV156FHM-NX4
- BOE NE156QHM-NY5
- Innolux N156HCE-EN1
- LCD panel options:
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video output:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- Dedicated GPU:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- Realtek RTL8111H
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
- Gigabit Ethernet
- Power
- 150W DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1151-76
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 54Wh 4-cell battery (model number NP50BAT-4-54)
- 150W DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Does not support DisplayPort over USB-C, USB-C charging (USB-PD), or Thunderbolt
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 15": 35.95cm x 23.8cm x 2.27cm, 1.99kg
- 17": 39.69cm x 26.2cm x 2.5cm, 2.41kg
Gazelle (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Plastic |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Plastic |
LED indicators:
The Gazelle has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard shortcuts:
The Gazelle has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
![]() | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
![]() | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
![]() | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Gazelle (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
- Fan connectors are highlighted in red
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in cyan
- Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
- Wireless card is highlighted in blue
- RAM is highlighted in maroon
- BIOS flash chip (U24) is highlighted in black
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
- Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in green
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
Gazelle (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Gazelle can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
- Replacing the speakers
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from over the ports in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Gazelle 18 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Pull the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The inner-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4, and the outer-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Gazelle's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver Time estimate: 8 minutes Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.
- Unplug the battery connector (highlighted red above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the outermost M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery.
- Reconnect the main battery, replace the M.2 SSD, and replace the bottom cover.
- Power up the Gazelle. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Gazelle 18 includes two fans as part of a single heatsink/fan assembly.
If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
- Remove the silver heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
- Note: Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto both CPU chips and the GPU chip.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the silver heatsink and fan screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
- Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the keyboard adhesive strip at the edge of the motherboard underneath the right fan's heatsink pipe, highlighted green below.
- You can optionally remove the heatsink to make the adhesive easier to grasp. Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the heatsink is removed.
- Using a pair of tweezers to reach the end of the strip (if necessary), pull out the end of the keyboard adhesive strip to stretch and detatch it.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (next to the RAM slot) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the bottom cover.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the left speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
- Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.
- Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
- The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
- Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
- Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
- Replace the main battery and bottom cover.
Steps to replace the right speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- The outermost SSD can optionally be removed to make it easier to work with the speaker plug.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.
- Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
- Replace the SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.
Kudu (kudu6)
The System76 Kudu is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports AMD Ryzen (Cezanne) Mobile CPUs
- BIOS
- W74M12JWSSIQ flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
- W74M12JWSSIQ flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with non-open EC firmware
- Graphics
- Dedicated GPU:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- TGP: 60W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- Integrated GPU:
- AMD Radeon RX Vega 8
- eDP display options:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: AUO B156HAN08.4 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video output:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- Dedicated GPU:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C13
- 48.96Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- Model number: NH50BAT-4
- 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
- USB
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD) or Thunderbolt
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 15": 36.1cm x 25.8cm x 2.9cm, 2.2kg
Kudu (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Plastic |
LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard shortcuts:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
Kudu (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in pink
- DC-in power connector is highlighted in red
- BIOS flash chip (U51) is highlighted in black
- Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
- RAM is highlighted in dotted green
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dotted yellow
- Wireless card is highlighted in blue
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in solid yellow
- CMOS battery is highlighted in solid green
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in cyan
- Front LED connector is highlighted in green
Kudu (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Kudu can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the battery
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the DC-in jack
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Slide the locking slider (highlighted cyan below) into the unlocked position.
- While holding the springing slider (highlighted red above) in the unlocked position, grasp the tab in the corner and lift the battery out of the machine.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery.
- Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
- The silver hinge screw (highlighted cyan below) is slightly shorter than the rest.
- Pull the bottom panel off of the case, starting behind the battery slot.
Replacing the RAM:
The Kudu 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280, and both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 3 only.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Kudu's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the main battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- If you are replacing the battery, remove any clear tape, then gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery, replace the bottom panel, and replace the main battery.
- Power up the Kudu. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Kudu 6 has a single heatsink for the CPU and GPU. One fan is attached to the heatsink, while the other fan is separate from the heatsink.
If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the standalone fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the standalone fan.
- The standalone fan is located between the battery slot and the M.2 drives, next to the DC-in port.
- If there is any clear tape on the fan securing the DC-in cable, remove it.
- Remove the three screws attaching the standalone fan to the chassis.
- Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan's cover on.
- Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan above.
- Lift the fan out of the system.
- The fan grill at the edge of the chassis is part of the heatsink, and will not lift out with the fan.
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the standalone fan.
- Removing the standalone fan is not physically required, but is recommended to ensure the heatsink is reinstalled properly.
- Remove the heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #10.
- The first four screws (#1 - #4) are held captive and will not pull away from the heat sink when loosened.
- Unplug the white fan connector from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
- Remove the heatsink/fan from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the silver heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #6.
- Replace the black fan screws.
- Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the DC-in jack:
If the DC-in jack (power port) is no longer making contact with the barrel charger, and replacing the charger doesn't fix the issue, the DC-in jack can be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the DC-in jack:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any clear tape securing the internal DC-in cable.
- Unscrew the two screws holding the DC-in connector onto the chassis, highlighted cyan below.
- Unplug the internal DC-in cable from the motherboard.
- Plug in the new cable, replace the screws, and (optionally) replace the tape.
Replacing the keyboard:
Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 2 keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Launch (launch_2)
The System76 Launch is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:
- Chassis
- Open-source milled chassis design
- Magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bar
- Electronics
- Open-source PCB design
- Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
- N-key rollover
- Sockets and Switches
- Kailh MX hot swap sockets
- Default switch options:
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
- Kailh Box Silent Brown
- Kailh Box Silent Pink
- Keycaps
- PBT plastic
- Dye sublimated legend
- XDA profile
- Sizes:
- 3x 2U keycaps (both
Space
bars and leftShift
)- All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
- 8x 1.5U keycaps (
Tab
,Caps
, leftCtrl
, rightFn
, rightShift
,Enter
,Bksp
, andDel
) - 73x 1U keycaps
- 3x 2U keycaps (both
- Layout
- Modified ANSI US QWERTY
- Custom Configurations
- Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
- Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
- Integrated Hub
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-C
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- Firmware
- Included cables:
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
- Dimensions
- 30.83cm x 13.51cm x 3.061cm, 948g
Launch (External Overview)
Top overview:
Back overview:
Box contents overview:
Launch (Customization & Repairs)
The Launch Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.
- Connecting and using Launch
- Removing and installing keycaps
- Removing and installing switches
- Removing the PCB
Connecting and using Launch:
- Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch's center USB-C port, shown above.
- Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
- Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch.
Removing and installing keycaps:
Launch uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.
Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove a keycap:
- Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
- The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.
- Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.
Removing larger keycaps:
- The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch's keycap sizes.
- The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
- These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.
Steps to install a keycap:
- Position the keycap on top of the switch.
- Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
- The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
- The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.
Removing and installing switches:
Because Launch uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.
If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.
If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.
Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to remove a switch:
- Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
- Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.
- Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
- Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
- The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
- Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.
Steps to install a switch:
- Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
- If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
- Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.
- Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.
- Place the switch straight into the plate.
- Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
- If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
- Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.
Removing the PCB:
Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.
Steps to remove the PCB:
- Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
- The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.
- Turn the keyboard over and remove the five bottom panel screws.
- The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.
- Remove the bottom panel.
- If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.
- Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
- To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.
Steps to install the PCB:
- Install all of the switches into the chassis.
- The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
- Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
- The switches are not specific to their key/hole.
- Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
- Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
- If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
- In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.
- Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C ports on the top edge.
- Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
- It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
- If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
- The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.
- Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
- If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
- The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.
- If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_1)
The System76 Launch Heavy is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:
- Chassis
- Open-source milled chassis design
- Dual magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bars
- Electronics
- Open-source PCB design
- Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
- N-key rollover
- Sockets and Switches
- Kailh MX hot swap sockets
- Default switch options:
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
- Kailh Box Silent Brown
- Kailh Box Silent Pink
- Keycaps
- PBT plastic
- Dye sublimated legend
- XDA profile
- Sizes:
- 6x 2U keycaps (both
Space
bars, leftShift
, numpad0
, numpad+
, and numpadEnter
)- All six 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
- 8x 1.5U keycaps (
Tab
,Caps
, leftCtrl
, rightFn
, rightShift
,Enter
,Bksp
, andDel
) - 91x 1U keycaps
- 6x 2U keycaps (both
- Layout
- Modified ANSI US QWERTY
- Custom Configurations
- Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
- Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
- Integrated Hub
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-C
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- Firmware
- Included cables:
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
- Dimensions
- 39.40cm x 13.51cm x 3.03cm, 1315.42g
Launch Heavy (External Overview)
Top overview:
Back overview:
Box contents overview:
Launch Heavy (Customization & Repairs)
The Launch Heavy Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch Heavy before changing keycaps or switches.
- Connecting and using Launch Heavy
- Removing and installing keycaps
- Removing and installing switches
- Removing the PCBs
Connecting and using Launch Heavy:
- Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Heavy's center USB-C port.
- Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
- Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch Heavy.
Removing and installing keycaps:
Launch Heavy uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.
Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 25 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove a keycap:
- Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
- The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.
- Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.
Removing larger keycaps:
- The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Heavy's keycap sizes.
- The six 2U keycaps (both
Space
bars, leftShift
, numpad0
, numpad+
, and numpadEnter
) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.- These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.
Removing vertical keycaps:
- For the
launch_heavy_1.1
revision numpad PCB, when removing vertical 2U keycaps (numpadEnter
and numpad+
), the switch will come out of the socket with the keycap.
- If you are not replacing the switch, remove it from the keycap and install it back into the keyboard before putting on the new keycap.
Steps to install a keycap:
- Position the keycap on top of the switch.
- Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
- The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
- The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.
Removing and installing switches:
Launch Heavy uses Kailh hot swap sockets, so key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.
If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Heavy, it is recommended to completely remove the PCBs, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCBs into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCBs.
If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.
Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to remove a switch:
- Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
- Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.
- Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
- Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
- The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
- Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.
Steps to install a switch:
- Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
- If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
- Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.
- Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.
- Place the switch straight into the plate.
- Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
- If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
- Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.
Removing the PCBs:
Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
If either of the PCBs in your Launch Heavy become damaged and need to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches in the keyboard, they can be removed and replaced using these instructions. The two PCBs are joined by a 100mm long, 20 pin, 0.5mm pitch FPC cable.
Steps to remove the PCBs:
- Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
- The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.
- Turn the keyboard over and remove the eight bottom panel screws.
- The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.
- Remove the bottom panel.
- If the magnetic lift bars are installed, they can be used as handles.
- Disconnect and remove the flat ribbon cable between the main PCB (
launch 2.0
) and the numpad PCB (launch_heavy 1.1
).- Slide the black latches away from the white connectors to free the cable.
- Push each PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift each PCB out of the chassis, one at a time.
- For the main board, to avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.
Steps to install the PCBs:
- Install all of the switches into the chassis.
- The switches can also be installed after installing the PCBs, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCBs or switches during installation.
- Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
- The switches are not specific to their key/hole.
- Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
- Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
- If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCBs, the switch or corresponding PCB may be damaged.
- In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.
- Carefully line up the main PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
- Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
- It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
- If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
- The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.
- Repeat the previous step for the numpad PCB.
- Insert the ribbon cable into the white connector on both PCBs, then slide the black latches shut.
- Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
- If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
- The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.
- If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)
The System76 Launch Lite is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:
- Chassis
- Open-source milled chassis design
- Magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bar
- Electronics
- Open-source PCB design
- Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
- N-key rollover
- Sockets and Switches
- Kailh MX hot swap sockets
- Default switch options:
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
- Kailh Box Silent Brown
- Kailh Box Silent Pink
- Keycaps
- PBT plastic
- Dye sublimated legend
- XDA profile
- Sizes:
- 3x 2U keycaps (both
Space
bars and leftShift
)- All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
- 7x 1.5U keycaps (
Tab
,Caps
, leftCtrl
, rightFn
, rightShift
,Enter
, andBksp
) - 60x 1U keycaps
- 3x 2U keycaps (both
- Layout
- Modified ANSI US QWERTY
- Custom Configurations
- Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
- Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
- Firmware
- Included cables:
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
- Dimensions
- 30.83cm x 10.71cm x 3.06cm, 816.46g
Launch Lite (External Overview)
Top overview:
Back overview:
Box contents overview:
- Contact System76 Support to purchase replacement accessories (availability may vary.)
Launch Lite (Customization & Repairs)
The Launch Lite Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.
- Connecting and using Launch Lite
- Removing and installing keycaps
- Removing and installing switches
- Removing the PCB
Connecting and using Launch Lite:
- Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Lite's USB-C port, shown above.
- Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
Removing and installing keycaps:
Launch Lite uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.
Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove a keycap:
- Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
- The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.
- Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.
Removing larger keycaps:
- The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Lite's keycap sizes.
- The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
- These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.
Steps to install a keycap:
- Position the keycap on top of the switch.
- Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
- The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
- The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.
Removing and installing switches:
Because Launch Lite uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.
If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Lite, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.
If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.
Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to remove a switch:
- Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
- Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.
- Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
- Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
- The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
- Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.
Steps to install a switch:
- Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
- If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
- Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.
- Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.
- Place the switch straight into the plate.
- Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
- If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
- Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.
Removing the PCB:
Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.
Steps to remove the PCB:
- Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
- The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.
- Turn the keyboard over and remove the four bottom panel screws.
- The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.
- Remove the bottom panel.
- If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.
- A small plastic spacer (highlighted cyan below) may come loose; if it does, place it back in the middle PCB hole.
- Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
- To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.
Steps to install the PCB:
- Install all of the switches into the chassis.
- The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
- Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
- The switches are not specific to their key/hole.
- Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
- Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
- If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
- In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.
- Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
- Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
- It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
- If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
- The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.
- Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
- If any of the oval magnets came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
- The magnets are held in by glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed.
- If any of the oval magnets came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
Lemur Pro (lemp12)
The System76 Lemur Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
- BIOS
- Macronix MX25L25673G flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- Macronix MX25L25673G flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- GOP driver is recommended, VBT is provided
- eDP display: 14.0" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Innolux N140HCE-EN2 (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- Memory
- Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR5
- 4x Samsung K4RAH165VB-BCQK (2GB each)
- Channel 1: 8-GB/16-GB/32-GB DDR5 SO-DIMM @ 4800 MHz
- Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR5
- Networking
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
- Bluetooth 5.3
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Power
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: AcBel ADA012
- AC power cord type: IEC C7 (non-polarized)
- USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
- 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Sound
- Realtek ALC256-CGT audio chipset
- Internal speakers & microphone
- 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
- HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
- MicroSD card reader (RTS5227S)
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 1.65cm x 32.2cm x 21.68cm, 1.15kg
Lemur Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Speakers
The machine has two bottom-firing speakers near the front, angled outward.
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
Bottom panel | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
LED indicators
There is an LED light next to the DC-in connector (charger port.) The color and pattern indicate:
- Solid green: Powered on and not suspended.
- Flashing green: Powered on and suspended.
- Solid yellow: Powered off and charging.
- Off: Powered off and not charging.
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Lemur Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F4 | Cycle keyboard backlight brightness |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Lemur Pro (Internal Overview)
Components and connectors:
Components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs. Connectors can be reseated for troubleshooting purposes.
- RAM slot is highlighted in maroon
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in green
- Slot closest to RAM supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- Slot closest to battery supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
- Wireless card is highlighted in navy
- LCD cable connector is highlighted in yellow
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in orange
- Keyboard connector (main) is highlighted in olive
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in white
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in brown
- Battery connector is highlighted in light red
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in pink
- BIOS flash chip (U41) is highlighted in black
Lemur Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Lemur Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the speakers
- Replacing the main battery
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 12 total
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 screws from the bottom panel.
- Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Lemur Pro 12 comes with 8GB of 4800 MHz RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which cannot be replaced. There is an additional RAM slot, which can support up to a 32GB stick for 40GB of RAM total. The additional stick is a standard DDR5 SO-DIMM running at 4800 MHz.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- SSD-1 is between the battery and the speaker.
- SSD-2 is next to the RAM slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it down.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your system's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It connects with a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless card (next to the CPU fan.) Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the primary SSD.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the battery, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are only clearing the CMOS and are not replacing the CMOS battery, removing the SSD and CMOS battery is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the small connector plugging the fan into the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
- This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.
- Remove the two fan screws (highlighted cyan above) and any clear tape holding the fan in place.
- Remove the heatsink screws in reverse order, starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.
- Remove the heatsink/fan from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU.
- Carefully replace the fan and heatsink.
- Replace the heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
- Replace the fan screws and plug the fan back in.
- When plugging the fan in, the black wire goes on the left (closest to the side of the machine.)
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the speakers:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull the tops of the purple rubber circles over the black tabs holding them in place.
- Lift the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.
- Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
Replacing the main battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the main battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery.
- The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
- A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
- If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
- Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
- Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.
- Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.
Meerkat (meer6)
The System76 Meerkat is a desktop with the following specifications:
- CPU options
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel UHD Graphics
- Video output:
- 2x HDMI 2.0b
- 2x DisplayPort 1.4a over USB-C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) Dual Channel DDR4 SODIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Power
- i3 model:
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter*: APD DA-90J19
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- i5 and i7 models:
- 120W (19V, 6.32A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter*: FSP FSP120-ABBN3
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 120W (19V, 6.32A) DC-in port
- * Included AC adapter may be a different model with the same specifications.
- i3 model:
- Sound
- 7.1-channel digital audio output over HDMI and USB-C
- Storage
- 1x M.2 2280 (M key)
- PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- 1x M.2 2242 (B key)
- SATA III
- Tall model only: 1x 2.5"
- SATA III
- 1x M.2 2280 (M key)
- USB
- 1x USB4 Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- 1x USB4 Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
- 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- Dimensions
- Short: 117 x 112 x 38mm
- Tall: 117 x 112 x 51mm
Meerkat (External Overview)
Short meer6:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Tall meer6:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Meerkat (Internal Overview)
Component overview:
- M.2 2280 (NVMe) SSD slot is highlighted in yellow
- M.2 2242 (SATA) SSD slot is highlighted in cyan
- Wireless card (underneath the NVMe SSD) is highlighted in red
- RAM slots are highlighted in pink
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in white
Meerkat (Parts & Repairs)
Several components in your Meerkat can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom panel
- Replacing an M.2 drive
- Replacing the RAM
- Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive
- Resetting the CMOS
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Removing the motherboard
- Replacing the fan
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the thermal paste
- Removing the cable keeper
- Mounting with VESA mount
Removing the bottom panel:
The bottom panel can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom panel:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Completely loosen the four screws in the corners.
- The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the bottom panel.
- Gently lift the bottom panel out of the machine.
- If your Meerkat is the tall model (with 2.5" drive slot), be careful not to damage the thin cable running from the motherboard to the bottom panel.
Replacing an M.2 drive:
Your Meerkat has two M.2 slots. The first slot is size 2280 and supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4. The second slot is size 2242 and supports SATA III.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 6 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- Replace the bottom panel.
Replacing the RAM:
The Meerkat 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive:
If your Meerkat is the tall variety, it has a 2.5" SATA III drive bay built into the bottom panel.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove a 2.5" storage drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
- Locate the SATA connector in the bottom panel and orient your drive to match.
- Slide the drive into the slot on the bottom panel until it plugs all the way into its connector.
- Replace the bottom panel.
Resetting the CMOS:
A CMOS reset will restore the UEFI firmware settings to their factory defaults, which can sometimes help if the system is not booting.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver and (optionally) tweezers
Time estimate: 13 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to reset CMOS:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
- Disconnect the CMOS battery connector.
- Try to pull the plug, not the wires.
- Hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Reconnect the CMOS battery.
- Replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may take longer than usual to boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Meerkat's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, 5.0 mm hex socket
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted cyan below) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Use the 5mm hex socket to remove the M.2 screw standoff, which also holds the wireless card in place.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining standoff.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place.
- Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Removing the motherboard:
Removing the motherboard is necessary for replacing the CMOS battery, cooling fan, and thermal paste.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the motherboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
- If your Meerkat is the tall variety, disconnect the ribbon cable that leads to the 2.5" drive bay.
- The white latch pulls away from the motherboard to free the cable; gently pull the cable out of the connector.
- Disconnect the two wireless antenna cables.
- Remove the two motherboard mounting screws along the back edge of the machine.
- Carefully lift the motherboard out of the case.
- It is easiest to lift the front side first, pivoting the board against the back side of the case.
- Removing the RAM is not required, but can make removing the motherboard easier.
Replacing the fan:
The cooling fan can be removed to clean dust out of the cooling system or to access the CPU heatsink when replacing the thermal paste.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the motherboard.
- Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan below.
- Remove the two fan screws (highlighted red above) and remove the fan.
- The plastic strip at the bottom of the fan is adhered to the heatsink; gently pull the fan off of the heatsink.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip, where UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored. If your clock is constantly resetting, your CMOS battery may need to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 27 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the motherboard, remove the fan, and unplug the CMOS battery.
- The CMOS battery is adhered to the motherboard with double-sided tape. Gently pull the CMOS battery off of the motherboard.
- Stick the new CMOS battery onto the motherboard using the included double-sided tape (if present), then plug the new CMOS battery in and replace the fan, motherboard, and bottom panel.
Replacing the thermal paste:
Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the M.2 drive, unplug the wireless card, remove the motherboard, and remove the fan.
- Loosen the four heatsink screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
- The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the heatsink.
- Gently lift the heatsink off of the motherboard.
- Using a paper towel, clean the old thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- Apply a small dot of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.
- Replace the heatsink and tighten the four screws in the order, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
- Reinstall the fan, motherboard, wireless card, M.2 drive, and bottom panel.
Removing the cable keeper:
Your Meerkat comes with a cable organizer to help hold cables in place. The cable organizer can be removed for a lower profile.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the cable keeper:
- Unscrew the Phillips screw holding the cable keeper in place.
Removing the top cover:
The Meerkat's top cover can be removed or replaced.
Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top cover:
- Pull up on the grooves in the back of the cover.
- Once the back is free, pull the rest of the top cover off of the machine.
Mounting with VESA Mount:
Your Meerkat comes with a VESA mount adapter, which allows it to be mounted on the back of a display. Because it mounts to the display's VESA mount, this will only work on displays which aren't already mounted via the VESA mount.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to mount with the VESA adapter:
- Insert the two shoulder screws into the bottom of the Meerkat.
- Use the remaining four screws to attach the VESA mounting plate, using the arrow to guide the orientation.
- Insert the two shoulder screws in the Meerkat into the two holes in the mounting plate (highlighted cyan above), then set the Meerkat down so it hangs on the mounting plate.
Oryx Pro (oryp10)
The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Alder Lake CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- Dedicated GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti (Max-Q)
- TGP: 80W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti (Max-Q)
- TGP: 80W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti (Max-Q)
- Integrated GPU:
- Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- eDP display options:
- 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
- OLED panel: Samsung ATNA56WR14-0 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY5 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NV173FHM-NY1 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
- External video output:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- Dedicated GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1231-26
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 80Wh 6-cell battery
- 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 15": 35.814cm x 24.003cm x 2.489cm, 2.4kg
- 17": 39.599cm x 26.213cm x 2.489cm, 2.8kg
Oryx Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Aluminum |
LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard shortcuts:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD (non-OLED models only) |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Oryx Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- Fan connectors are highlighted in cyan
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
- Wireless card is highlighted in purple
- Wireless card is underneath the innermost SSD
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
- CMOS battery connector is underneath the outermost SSD
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
- Right speaker connector is underneath the outermost SSD
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Battery connector is highlighted in red
- RAM is highlighted in dark green
- BIOS flash chip (U60) is highlighted in black
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in orange
- Keyboard adhesive access hole is highlighted in pink
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard adhesive strip (used) is highlighted in red
- Access hole is located on the left side
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in green
Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the speakers
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
- All screws are the same length on any given unit. However, the 17" model uses longer screws than the 15" model.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Oryx Pro 10 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 only. The slots are backwards-compatible with PCIe NVMe Generation 3 drives, but the slots do not support SATA.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the two silver battery screws along the bottom of the battery.
- Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
- When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
- When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Oryx Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove both SSDs.
- Removing the outermost SSD is optional, but will make it easier to work with the wireless card.
- Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- Keeping the wireless card parallel with the motherboard, slide the card out of the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove both SSDs, and remove the wireless card.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the wireless card is optional.
- Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
- Replace the bottom panel and power up the Oryx Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan.
The Oryx Pro 10 comes with heat-conductive metal on the dedicated GPU, and uses regular thermal paste for the CPU. These materials help facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment.
- Thermal paste should generally be replaced after removing the heatsink; thermal paste also dries over time, so depending on your climate and the age of the machine, applying new thermal paste may increase thermal performance.
- The heat-conductive metal does not dry out, and replacing it is optional; replacement may be useful if the previous metal has flowed out of the proper area for cooling.
Replacement heat-conductive metal fitted to the machine and replacement fans can be obtained by contacting support.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 40 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Power off the machine. Wait 20 minutes for the machine to cool down to room temperature.
- Warning: Removing the heatsink before the machine has cooled to room temperature may result in heat-conductive metal flowing onto the motherboard and causing irrepairable damage.
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the fan and heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
- The screws are held captive and will not come out of the fans/heatsink. The fan screws will click when they are fully loosened.
- The order for the 17" model is shown below; the screws are numbered differently on the 15" model. Follow the order stamped into the heatsink metal.
- Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- If there is any clear tape securing the heatsink/fans or the fan wires, remove it.
- Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted red above).
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, the CPU heatsink, the border of the GPU die, and the GPU heatsink.
- A small amount of rubbing alcohol can be used if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- The heat-conductive metal may have some holes where pieces stuck to the die or heatsink.
- If you are not replacing the heat-conductive metal, do not pick or wipe the heat-conductive metal off of the GPU heatsink.
- If you are replacing the heat-conductive metal, remove the plastic cover from the GPU heatsink.
- A fingernail or a thin plastic tool can be used to pick a side of the plastic cover up from the GPU heatsink.
- Warning: The heat-conductive metal is electrically conductive. Be careful not to get specks of heat-conductive metal onto the motherboard. The heat-conductive metal can cause the motherboard to malfunction or fail if it makes contact.
- After removing the plastic covers, wipe away any remaining heat-conductive metal residue from the heatsink and GPU.
- Some adhesive residue may remain on the GPU heatsink.
- Apply the new heat-conductive metal to the GPU heatsink, matching the orientation of the plastic covering with the diagonal corner of its respective surface.
- Warning: Replacement heat-conductive metal obtained from System76 will include the plastic covering. If you are applying third-party heat-conductive or liquid metal, clean and reuse the plastic covering from the stock heat-conductive metal to prevent the aftermarket metal from flowing onto the motherboard when heated.
- Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each CPU die.
- Apply a line of thermal paste around the border of the GPU die.
- The purpose of this border is to further prevent melted heat-conductive metal from flowing onto the motherboard during operation.
- Keep the nozzle of the thermal paste tube pressed against the surface of the chip; dispense the thermal paste slowly while moving the nozzle.
- Be careful not to apply too much thermal paste around the GPU. Only a thin layer is needed.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Tighten the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
- Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the speakers:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the outermost SSD.
- Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Unscrew the speaker screws and lift the speaker out of the machine.
- The right speaker has three screws; the left speaker has two screws.
- The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
- Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom panel.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.
Warning: The Oryx Pro 10's keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is likely that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Hard ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the keyboard adhesive strip access point near the right fan.
- You can optionally remove the fan/heatsink assembly to make access easier, but this is not recommended unless you are also removing the thermal paste.
- Using a pair of tweezers, pull out the end of the adhesive strip.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push a screwdriver into the adhesive slot until the keyboard pops out.
- If available, a flathead spudger tool can also be used to provide more contact with the keyboard.
- A layer of plastic may stick to the adhesive and come off of the keyboard. Try to keep as much of the plastic shielding on the keyboard as possible.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- The keyboard is primarily held in place by the perimeter clips and the keyboard screw (one of the bottom panel screws). The adhesive strip can optionally be removed or omitted to make future keyboard removal easier.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and press the adhesive strip back into its slot.
Oryx Pro (oryp9)
The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Alder Lake CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- Dedicated GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti (Max-Q)
- TGP: 80W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti (Max-Q)
- TGP: 80W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti (Max-Q)
- Integrated GPU:
- Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- eDP display options:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY5 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NV173FHM-NY1 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video output:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- Dedicated GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1231-26
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 80Wh 6-cell battery
- 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 15": 35.814cm x 24.003cm x 2.489cm, 1.99kg
- 17": 39.599cm x 26.213cm x 2.489cm, 2.3kg
Oryx Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Aluminum |
LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard shortcuts:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Oryx Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- Fan connectors are highlighted in cyan
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
- Wireless card is highlighted in purple
- Wireless card is underneath the innermost SSD
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
- CMOS battery connector is underneath the outermost SSD
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
- Right speaker connector is underneath the outermost SSD
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Battery connector is highlighted in red
- RAM is highlighted in dark green
- BIOS flash chip (U60) is highlighted in black
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in orange
- Keyboard adhesive access hole is highlighted in pink
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard adhesive access hole is highlighted in red
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in green
Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 17" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 15" model unless otherwise noted.
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the speakers
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Oryx Pro 9 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 only. The slots are backwards-compatible with PCIe NVMe Generation 3 drives, but the slots do not support SATA.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the three silver battery screws along the top of the battery.
- Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery, starting from the top edge with screw holes.
- When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the bottom edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
- When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Oryx Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove both SSDs.
- Removing the outermost SSD is optional, but will make it easier to work with the wireless card.
- Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- Keeping the wireless card parallel with the motherboard, slide the card out of the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove both SSDs, and remove the wireless card.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the wireless card is optional.
- Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
- Replace the bottom panel and power up the Oryx Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan.
The Oryx Pro 9 comes with heat-conductive metal on the dedicated GPU die and the main CPU die, and uses regular thermal paste for the integrated GPU die. These materials help facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment.
- Thermal paste should generally be replaced after removing the heatsink; thermal paste also dries over time, so depending on your climate and the age of the machine, applying new thermal paste may increase thermal performance.
- The heat-conductive metal does not dry out, and replacing it is optional; replacement may be useful if the previous metal has flowed out of the proper area for cooling.
Replacement heat-conductive metal fitted to the machine and replacement fans can be obtained by contacting support.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 40 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Power off the machine. Wait 20 minutes for the machine to cool down to room temperature.
- Warning: Removing the heatsink before the machine has cooled to room temperature may result in heat-conductive metal flowing onto the motherboard and causing irrepairable damage.
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the fan and heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
- The screws are held captive and will not come out of the fans/heatsink. The fan screws will click when they are fully loosened.
- The order for the 17" model is shown below; the screws are numbered differently on the 15" model. Follow the order stamped into the heatsink metal.
- Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- If there is any clear tape securing the heatsink/fans or the fan wires, remove it.
- Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted red above).
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the integrated CPU die, the border of the CPU chip, the CPU heatsink, the border of the GPU die, and the GPU heatsink.
- A small amount of rubbing alcohol can be used if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- The heat-conductive metal may have some holes where pieces stuck to the die or heatsink.
- If you are not replacing the heat-conductive metal, do not pick or wipe the heat-conductive metal off of the main CPU die or the GPU heatsink.
- If you are replacing the heat-conductive metal, remove the plastic covers from the GPU heatsink and the CPU chip.
- A fingernail or a thin plastic tool can be used to pick a side of the plastic cover up from the CPU chip/GPU heatsink.
- Warning: The heat-conductive metal is electrically conductive. Be careful not to get specks of heat-conductive metal onto the motherboard. The heat-conductive metal can cause the motherboard to malfunction or fail if it makes contact.
- After removing the plastic covers, wipe away any remaining heat-conductive metal residue from the heatsink, dedicated GPU die, and main CPU die.
- Some adhesive residue may remain on the GPU heatsink and CPU chip.
- Apply the new heat-conductive metal to the CPU chip and the GPU heatsink, matching the orientation of the plastic coverings with the diagonal corners of their respective surfaces.
- Warning: Replacement heat-conductive metal obtained from System76 will include the plastic covering. If you are applying third-party heat-conductive or liquid metal, clean and reuse the plastic covering from the stock heat-conductive metal to prevent the aftermarket metal from flowing onto the motherboard when heated.
Above: Heat-conductive metal for the CPU (left) and the GPU (right), with plastic coverings.
Below: Heat-conductive metal application on the CPU chip and the GPU heatsink.
- Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the integrated GPU die (the smaller die on the CPU chip).
- Apply a line of thermal paste around the border of the CPU chip and the border of the GPU die.
- The purpose of this border is to further prevent melted heat-conductive metal from flowing onto the motherboard during operation.
- Keep the nozzle of the thermal paste tube pressed against the surface of the chip; dispense the thermal paste slowly while moving the nozzle.
- Be careful not to apply too much thermal paste. Only a thin layer is needed.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Tighten the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
- Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the speakers:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the outermost SSD.
- Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Unscrew the speaker screws and lift the speaker out of the machine.
- The right speaker has three screws; the left speaker has two screws.
- The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
- Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom panel.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the keyboard adhesive strip access point near the right fan.
- Using a pair of tweezers, pull out the end of the adhesive strip.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push a screwdriver into the adhesive slot until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and press the adhesive strip back into its slot.
- The keyboard is primarily held in place by the perimeter clips and the keyboard screw (one of the bottom panel screws). The adhesive strip can optionally be removed to make future keyboard removal easier.
Pangolin (pang12)
The System76 Pangolin is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports AMD Ryzen (Rembrandt) Mobile CPUs
- BIOS
- Winbond W25R256JW flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
- Winbond W25R256JW flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5571
- Programmed with non-open EC firmware
- ITE IT5571
- Graphics
- GPU: AMD Radeon 680M
- eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Innolux N156HRA-EA1 (or equivalent)
- External video output: 1x HDMI 2.0, DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- Memory
- 32GB LPDDR5 (on-board) @ 6400 MHz
- 16x Micron MT62F2G32D8DR-031 (2GB each)
- 32GB LPDDR5 (on-board) @ 6400 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Mediatek MT7921K
- Power
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Shenzhen Jihongda JHD-AD065B-190342BA-A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
- 70Wh 3-cell Lithium-Ion battery (model number 628467-3S1P)
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- HDMI audio
- Storage
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- SD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Does not support Thunderbolt.
- Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 3x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 1.80cm x 37.06cm x 24.79cm, 1.79kg
Pangolin (External Overview)
Left side:
Right side:
Front side:
Back side:
Keyboard & touchpad:
Lid:
Materials
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Magnesium Alloy |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Magnesium Alloy |
Bottom panel | Magnesium Alloy |
LED indicators:
Icon | State | Description |
---|---|---|
On | Charging | |
Off | Fully charged | |
On | Webcam disabled (privacy mode on) | |
Off | Webcam enabled (privaacy mode off) | |
On | Powered on | |
Pulsing | Suspended | |
Off | Powered off |
Keyboard shortcuts
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
Fn+F1 | Mute | |
Fn+F2 | Volume down | |
Fn+F3 | Volume up | |
Fn+F6 | Toggle trackpad | |
Fn+F7 | Cycle keyboard brightness | |
Fn+F9 | Toggle airplane mode | |
Fn+F10 | Toggle displays | |
Fn+F11 | Screen brightness down | |
Fn+F12 | Screen brightness up |
Pangolin (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
- Wireless card is highlighted in dark blue
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in red
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in yellow
- Main battery connector is highlighted in purple
- Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
- BIOS flash chip (U4) is highlighted in black
- Speaker connector is highlighted in cyan
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in light green
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in pink
Pangolin (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Pangolin can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Removing the bottom cover
- Removing the battery
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the speakers
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 connections and M.2 size 2280.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 3 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Unscrew the M.2 access door screw.
- Pull the M.2 access door off, starting from the top (larger side).
- A flat, plastic tool can be used to pry the edge of the door up.
- If the door is difficult to remove, the M.2 drives can alternatively be accessed by removing the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- If a slot is being used for the first time, the spare thermal pad (which is included in the Pangolin's box) can be applied to the silver backplate before placing the drive down on top of it.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 bottom panel screws.
- The M.2 access door screw does not need to be removed.
- Lift the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the four battery screws, highlighted green below.
- Unplug the battery connector (highlighted cyan above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Pangolin's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)
- If you are replacing the CMOS battery, carefully peel it away from the adhesive holding it to the motherboard.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Pangolin 12 has a fan and heatsink assembly to cool the CPU. The fans and heatsink are held together with adhesive; it is possible to replace the fans individually, but removing the entire assembly is recommended to perform service.
During normal operation, only the left fan will spin. The right fan is reserved in the embedded controller firmware for cooling a dedicated GPU, which the Pangolin 12 does not have.
If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any black tape that may be covering the fan screws and wires.
- Remove the six fan screws, highlighted green below.
- Unplug the fan connectors, highlighted cyan above.
- Unscrew the three heatsink screws, highlighted red above.
- The heatsink screws are held captive and will not come out of the heatsink.
- Remove the fan and heatsink assembly from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- The fans are held onto the heatsink with adhesive strips on both the top and bottom; if they come loose, place them back into position between the strips before reinstalling the fan/heatsink assembly.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Tighten the three heatsink screws.
- Replace the fan screws and plug in the fan connectors.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers. The speakers are a connected set, and must be replaced together.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the speakers:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the left speaker (on the right side when the machine is upside-down) from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull both speakers up and off of the plastic posts.
- Remove any tape necessary to free the wire between the left and right speakers.
- Slide the new speakers onto the plastic posts, run the wire between the speakers through the channels in the chassis, and connect the left speaker to the motherboard.
Serval WS (serw13)
The System76 Serval WS is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
- Chipset
- Intel HM770
- BIOS
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
- eDP display:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@165Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY8 (or equivalent)
- 17.6" 3840x2160@144Hz
- LCD panel: AUO B173ZAN03.0 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@165Hz LCD
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
- Networking
- 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX211
- Power
- 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
- DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-280P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C13
- 80Wh 6-cell battery
- 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 2x PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports USB-PD (charging) when the system is powered off or suspended.
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C.
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Partially supports DisplayPort over USB-C.
- Display output is unreliable with some display brands;
usage of the Thunderbolt port is recommended instead.
- Display output is unreliable with some display brands;
- Partially supports DisplayPort over USB-C.
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 15": 2.49cm x 35.8cm x 24.0cm, 2.4kg
- 17": 2.49cm x 39.6cm x 26.2cm, 2.8kg
Serval WS (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Aluminum |
LED indicators
The Serval WS has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Serval WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
![]() | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
![]() | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
![]() | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Serval WS (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
- RAM is highlighted in maroon
- BIOS flash chip (U46) is highlighted in black
- Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
- Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
- Right speaker connector (on the left) is under the outermost SSD
- CMOS battery connector (under the outermost SSD) is highlighted in purple
- Wireless card (under the innermost SSD) is highlighted in blue
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Main battery connector is highlighted in red
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in green
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
- Front LED connector is highlighted in cyan
Serval WS (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Serval WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the keyboard
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the speakers
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 15 bottom panel screws.
- All screws are the same length on any given unit. However, the 17" model uses longer screws than the 15" model.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the three silver battery screws along the bottom of the battery.
- Unplug the white connector (highlighted cyan above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
- When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
- When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver; tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
- The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
- If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
- Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
- If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again.
- Replace the bottom panel.
Replacing the RAM:
The Serval WS 13 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Serval WS 13 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.
If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
- The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
- Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- Unplug the white fan connectors from the motherboard.
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
- Plug the white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Serval WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- If there is an M.2 SSD in the slot closest to the battery, follow the steps above to remove the M.2 SSD.
- The other SSD can optionally be removed to make working with the wireless card easier.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- Slide the card out of the M.2 slot, parallel with the motherboard.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
- Replace the M.2 SSD, bottom cover, and battery.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the comptuer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, unplug the main battery, and remove the outermost SSD.
- Remove the innermost SSD and remove the wireless card, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then this step is optional.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery.
- Replace the SSDs and wireless card (if necessary) and the bottom panel.
- Power up the Serval WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the left speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Unscrew the two speaker screws, free the speaker wire from the channels in the chassis, and remove the speaker.
- Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
- Replace the bottom cover.
Steps to replace the right speaker:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the outermost SSD.
- Peel back any clear tape hanging onto the speaker from the wireless card.
- Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Unscrew the three speaker screws and remove the speaker.
- Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard.
- Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.
Thelio (thelio-b4)
The System76 Thelio is a desktop with the following specifications:
- Processor options
- Supports Intel 12th Generation (Alder Lake) and 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
- Motherboard
- MSI MEG Z690I UNIFY running System76 Firmware (non-open)
- Intel Z690 chipset
- Daughterboard
- Thelio Io board running open-source firmware
- Graphics options
- One GPU (PCIe 4.0 x16) of up to two-slot height
- GPU size:
- Internal clearance: 278.175mm
- Recommended maximum length: 268.175mm
- Tested with the following GPUs:
- Integrated Graphics
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030
- 1x HDMI 2.0b, 1x DisplayPort 1.4, 1x DVI-D (single-link)
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650
- 1x HDMI 2.0b, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a, 1x DVI-D (dual-link)
- AMD Radeon RX 6500 XT
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a
- AMD Radeon RX 6600
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- Requires 650W PSU
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- Requires 650W PSU
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- Requires 650W PSU
- NVIDIA RTX A2000
- 4x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- Requires 650W PSU
- NVIDIA RTX A4000
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4
- Requires 650W PSU
- Integrated Graphics
- Expansion
- 1x PCIe 4.0 x16 (GPU slot)
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
- Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
- Crucial CT8G48C40U5 (8GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-8 (8GB/stick)
- Crucial CT16G48C40U5 (16GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-16 (16GB/stick)
- Crucial CT32G48C40U5 (32GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-32 (32GB/stick)
- Networking
- 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel I225-V)
- Wi-Fi 6E + Bluetooth 5.2 (Intel AX211)
- Power
- C13 power cord
- 450W minimum PSU
- Some GPU configurations require 650W PSU
- Tested with the following PSU models (may ship with other tested models):
- Sound
- 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
- Up to 7.1-channel audio output
- Realtek ALC4080 audio chipset (with Savitech SV3H712 amplifier)
- HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
- Storage
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
- Only active with 11th Gen CPUs.
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
- 4x 2.5" SATA
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
- USB
- 2x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Does not provide a DisplayPort over USB-C signal.
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C passthrough when a GPU is connected to the associated Mini DisplayPort input.
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 4x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 2x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 32.7cm × 20.7cm × 29.1cm
Thelio (External Overview)
Back overview:
Power Switch Guide:
- 1: On
- 0: Off
Front/side overview:
Top/bottom overview:
Thelio (Internal Overview)
Left side overview:
- CPU cooler & CPU are highlighted in red (located behind the CPU shroud)
- RAM slots are highlighted in green
- 2.5" SATA drive cage is highlighted in pink
- M.2 slots 1 and 2 are highlighted in white (located underneath the heatsink)
- GPU (in PCIe 4.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in yellow
- Power supply is highlighted in cyan
- Bottom case fan is highlighted in orange
Right side overview:
- M.2 slot 3 is highlighted in cyan
- CPU fan Y-cable connectors are highlighted in yellow
Front side overview:
- Thelio-IO connector access cutout is highlighted in green
Top overview:
- 2.5" drive screws are highlighted in green
- 2.5" drive cage cover is highlighted in cyan
- Motherboard CPU fan header is highlighted in yellow
- Connects to Thelio-IO board
- CPU power connector is highlighted in red
- Connects to power supply
See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.
Thelio (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Thelio can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the initial revision for this generation (B4-0). Minor case details may vary on newer units, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details should remain the same unless otherwise noted.
Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Replacing the front accent strip
- Removing the top case
- Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives
- Replacing the bottom case fan
- Replacing the GPU
- Removing the CPU shroud
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing the M.2 drives
- Replacing the CPU fans
- Replacing the CPU cooler/thermal paste and CPU
- Replacing the power supply
- Replacing the Thelio-IO board
- Troubleshooting the power button
Replacing the front accent strip:
Thelio includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.
Tools required: None
Time estimate: 30 seconds
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the front accent strip:
- Place the Thelio on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
- The Thelio can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
- Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
- The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
- Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
- Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.
Removing the top case:
The top case can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top case:
- Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.
- Slide the top case up and off of the machine.
Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:
Thelio B4 supports up to four 2.5" SATA III drives.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover, highlighted green below.
- If you are adding a new drive, pop out a black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).
- Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
- Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.
Thelio B4 with one 2.5" screw ring removed and one 2.5" drive installed.
- Replace the black plastic screw rings and the 2.5" drive bay cover.
Replacing the bottom case fan:
Thelio B4 has one case-mounted intake fan on the bottom of the chassis.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the bottom case fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unplug the fan's cable from the Thelio-IO daughterboard.
- The bottom case fan plugs into the
INTAKE0
port on the Thelio-IO board. - When viewed from the front of the case, this connector is second from the right.
- The bottom case fan plugs into the
- Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
- To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.
- Remove the old fan from the case.
- When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
- The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case. Thread the new fan's cable through the opening in the back of the case and through the two velcro connectors leading to the Thelio-IO board.
Replacing the GPU:
Thelio supports one dual-slot dedicated GPU. The GPU slot is a PCIe 5.0 x16 slot.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the GPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place. Remove the brace.
- If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.
- Push and hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
- After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cable.
- Once the GPU is installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, and top case.
- The side GPU brace includes screws to adjust for the height and depth of the graphics cards.
The GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPU.
Removing the CPU shroud:
The CPU shroud guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots and top GPU.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the CPU shroud:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace.
- The GPU can also be removed to provide more room for working with the components.
- Unplug the connector for the front CPU fan.
- Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU shroud in place.
- Pull the CPU shroud away from the machine.
Replacing the RAM:
Thelio B4 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR5 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of up to 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU shroud.
- To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top latch up away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the top edge. (The bottom of the RAM slot does not move.)
- Make sure the tab on the top of the slot is open (pulled upwards), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot, starting with the bottom edge.
- The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
- If you are only using one RAM stick, place it in the right-side slot (farthest from the CPU.)
- Replace the top case.
Replacing the M.2 drives:
Thelio B4 has three M.2 slots (M key), supporting M.2 size 2280.
- Back of motherboard (slot 3):
- Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4.
- Front of motherboard, front of switch (slot 1):
- Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4.
- Front of motherboard, back of switch (slot 2):
- Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive (slot 3):
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Steps to replace the M.2 drives (slots 1 and 2):
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPU, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Removing the GPU is optional but recommended to provide more working space and avoid damage.
- Unscrew and remove the M.2 heatsink.
- The heatsink screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the heatsink.
- It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.
- If installed, the SSD in slot 1 is held in place by the heatsink, and will be freed when the heatsink is removed.
- If you are accessing M.2 slot 2, remove the SSD from slot 1, then unscrew the two M.2 switch screws and pull the M.2 switch straight away from the motherboard.
- The M.2 switch plugs into the motherboard on the right side.
- The M.2 slot 1 socket can be used to grasp the switch while pulling.
- Flip the M.2 switch over to reveal M.2 slot 2 on the back of the switch.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- Replace the M.2 switch, SSD in M.2 slot 1 (if installed), M.2 heatsink, CPU shroud, GPU, GPU brace, and top case.
- If you are installing an SSD in M.2 slot 1 for the first time, remove any protective plastic that may be covering the thermal tape.
Replacing the CPU fans:
Thelio B4 contains two CPU fans. One is mounted on the CPU shroud, and one is mounted on the cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the shroud-mounted CPU fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the fan onto the shroud.
- When reinstalling the fan into the CPU shroud, the spinning side should face outward (towards the front of the case), and the cable should point towards the bottom-right corner of the open side of the shroud.
- Overtightening the fan's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.
Steps to replace the cooler-mounted CPU fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPU, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Pull the corners of the fan's top clip away from the heatsink it's held to.
- Alternatively, the opposite side of the bracket (clipped onto the heatsink) can be released first.
- Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then pull the fan and clips away from the CPU cooler.
- Unplug the fan connector and free the cable through the six velcro straps.
- When reinstalling the CPU cooler fan, the side with a stationary cover should face the back of the case, while the spinning side should face the CPU cooler.
Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:
The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.
The CPU uses an Intel LGA 1700 socket. The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U9S.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPU, remove the CPU shroud, and remove the cooler-mounted CPU fan.
- While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler crossbar onto the vertical mounting brackets.
- The screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the crossbar.
- Only the two outer screws need to be removed; the center screw holding the horizontal crossbar onto the heatsink does not need to be removed.
- The cooler will come away from the CPU.
- Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
Steps to replace the CPU:
- Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
- Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
- Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.
- Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
- The CPU holder opens in the opposite direction from the locking pin.
- Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
- Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
- Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
- When reinstalling the CPU, be sure to match the original orientation, with the triangle on the CPU pointing to the bottom left of the motherboard.
- The triangle on the CPU should match the triangle on the top of the CPU cover.
- Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.
Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:
- Draw an
X
shape of thermal paste onto the CPU.
- Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
- The cooler should be oriented so the hole in the vertical center of the heatsink is facing the right side (front of the case).
- Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
- Set the computer upright, then reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU shroud, GPU bracket, and top case.
Replacing the power supply:
The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the power supply:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and GPU.
- Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
- Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.
- Remove/replace the PSU.
- The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.
- The PSU will need to be held up to the back of the case while it is screwed in.
- After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
- Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- the 8-pin (6 + 1) connector is to be plugged into the GPU.
Replacing the Thelio-IO board:
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If the Thelio-IO board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.
Steps to replace the Thelio-IO board:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and any 2.5" drives that are installed.
- Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.
- The rightmost connector requires pulling the white tab while unplugging.
- Unscrew the two screws on the right side of the drive cage (next to the front of the machine.)
- While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board down and out of the drive cage.
- Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.
Thelio-IO wiring guide:
- When wiring the Thelio-IO board, refer to the above image and the following guide. The ports are numbered in the suggested connection order based on position and size.
- 1:
POWER0
- to the power supplyPERIPHERAL
port (via 4-pin Molex adapter.) - 2:
INTAKE0
- to the bottom case fan. - 3:
CPUOUT0
- to a Y-cable connecting to both CPU fans. - 4:
CPUIN0
- to theCPU_FAN1
header at the top of the motherboard. - 5:
DATA0/1/2/3
- to SATA ports #1/#2/#3/#4 on the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.- The ports are located next to the RAM slots.
- These connectors provide data transfer for the 2.5" drive slots.
- 6*:
PFP0
- to the power button receptacle on the front panel. - 7*:
USB0
- to theJUSB1
header on motherboard, highlighted red above.- The
JUSB1
port is located above the four SATA ports. - On the Thelio-IO board, the row of four pins plugs in, while the row of five pins hangs off the back and does not plug in.
- This connector provides fan control and firmware updates.
- The
- 8*:
PMB0
- to thePower Switch
andPower LED
pins (the four bottom-left pins of theJFP_1
header) on the motherboard.- On the motherboard, the red wire goes on the bottom and the black wire goes on the top.
- The
JFP_1
header is just above the GPU (if installed).
- * For all connectors with multi-colored wires plugging into the Thelio-IO board, the red wire goes on the right side (viewing from the front of the computer.)
- 1:
Troubleshooting the power button:
If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:
- Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
- Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
- Check the wiring for the front power button.
- Replace the front power button, if necessary.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
- Push the small button labeled
B0
on the Thelio-IO board.
- If the Thelio-IO
B0
button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring. - If the Thelio-IO
B0
button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.
Steps to check the front power button wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:
- On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right (when viewed from the back of the computer.)
- The front power button receptacle should plug into the
PFPD
port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)
Steps to replace the power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.
Thelio Major (thelio-major-r3)
The System76 Thelio Major is a desktop with the following specifications:
- Processor options
- Supports AMD Ryzen 7000 series (Zen 4) CPUs
- Motherboard
- Gigabyte X670E Aorus Extreme running System76 Firmware (non-open)
- AMD X670 chipset
- Daughterboard
- Thelio Io board running open-source firmware
- Graphics options
- Up to two dedicated GPUs
- Primary GPU slot:
- PCIe 5.0 x16
- Runs at x8 bandwidth if either of the bottom two M.2 slots are populated
- Up to 4-slot height
- PCIe 5.0 x16
- Secondary GPU slot:
- PCIe 4.0 x4
- Fits physical x16 cards, runs at x4 bandwidth
- Up to 2-slot height
- PCIe 4.0 x4
- Primary GPU slot:
- GPU size:
- Internal clearance: 396.50mm
- Recommended maximum length: 386.50mm
- Tested with the following GPUs:
- NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030
- 1x HDMI 2.0b, 1x DisplayPort 1.4, 1x DVI-D (single-link)
- AMD Radeon RX 6500 XT
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a
- AMD Radeon RX 6600
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti
- 1x HDMI 2.1a, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080
- 1x HDMI 2.1a, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090
- 1x HDMI 2.1a, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA RTX A2000
- 4x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- NVIDIA RTX A4000
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4
- NVIDIA RTX A6000
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4a
- Requires 750W+ PSU
- NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030
- Up to two dedicated GPUs
- Expansion
- 1x PCIe 5.0 x16 (primary GPU slot)
- 1x PCIe 4.0 x4 (secondary GPU slot)
- Fits physical x16 cards, runs at x4 bandwidth
- 1x PCIe 3.0 x2
- Fits physical x16 cards, runs at x2 bandwidth
- Memory
- Up to 128GB (4x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
- Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
- Crucial CT8G48C40U5 (8GB/stick)
- Crucial CT16G48C40U5 (16GB/stick)
- Crucial CT32G48C40U5 (32GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF552C40BB-32 (32GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-32 (32GB/stick)
- Networking
- 1x 10-Gigabit Ethernet (RMarvel lAQtion AQC113C)
- Wi-Fi 6E + Bluetooth 5.2 (Intel AX210)
- Power
- C13 power cord
- 750W minimum PSU
- Some GPU configurations require 1000W PSU
- Tested with the following PSU models (may ship with other tested models):
- Sound
- 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
- Up to 5.1-channel audio output
- Realtek ALC1220-VB audio chipset
- HDMI, DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
- Storage
- 4x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 5) SSDs
- M.2 slots 2 and 3 (the bottom two slots) share bandwidth with the primary GPU slot
- 4x 2.5" SATA III
- 4x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 5) SSDs
- USB
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
- Does not support Thunderbolt or DisplayPort over USB-C.
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Does not support Thunderbolt or DisplayPort over USB-C.
- 6x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 4x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 46.2cm × 26.2cm × 40.8cm
Thelio Major (External Overview)
Back overview:
Power Switch Guide:
- 1: On
- 0: Off
Other Notes:
- The
ECO
(ECO Mode) switch on the power supply should always be set toON
for an optimal fan curve. - The
Q-Flash Plus
(BIOS Flash) button is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of this button is not recommended.
Front/side overview:
Top/bottom overview:
Thelio Major (Internal Overview)
Left side overview:
- CPU cooler & CPU are highlighted in red (located behind the CPU shroud)
- RAM slots are highlighted in green (located behind the CPU shroud)
- 2.5" SATA drive cage (with cover removed) is highlighted in pink
- M.2 slots are highlighted in white (located underneath the GPU & heatsinks)
- GPU (in PCIe 5.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in yellow
- PCIe 4.0 x8 and 3.0 x2 slots are highlighted in navy
- Power supply is highlighted in cyan
- Case fans are highlighted in orange
Right side overview:
- Thelio-IO access cutout is highlighted in green
- Power supply access cutout is highlighted in red
Front side overview:
- Thelio-IO access cutout is highlighted in green
Top overview:
- 2.5" drive screws (with retainer ring removed) are highlighted in green
- CPU power connectors are highlighted in red
- Connect to power supply
- Motherboard CPU fan header is highlighted in yellow
- Connects to Thelio-IO board
- Power button receptacle is highlighted in cyan
- Connects to Thelio-IO board
See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.
Thelio Major (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Thelio Major can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the initial revision for this generation (R3-0). Minor case details may vary on newer units, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details should remain the same unless otherwise noted.
Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Replacing the front accent strip
- Removing the top case
- Replacing the GPU
- Replacing the case fans
- Removing the CPU shroud
- Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing the M.2 drives
- Replacing the CPU fans
- Replacing the CPU cooler/thermal paste and CPU
- Replacing the power supply
- Replacing the Thelio-IO board
- Troubleshooting the power button
Replacing the front accent strip:
Thelio Major includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.
Tools required: None
Time estimate: 30 seconds
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the front accent strip:
- Place the system on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
- The system can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
- Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
- The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
- Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
- Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.
Removing the top case:
The top case can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top case:
- Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.
- Slide the top case up and off of the machine.
Replacing the GPU:
Thelio Major supports two multi-slot dedicated GPUs:
- The top GPU slot is a PCIe 5.0 x16 slot.
- There are four units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
- This slot shares bandwidth with M.2 slots 2 and 3 (the bottom two M.2 slots); if either of these M.2 slots are populated, then the top GPU slot will operate at x8 bandwidth.
- The bottom GPU slot is a PCIe 4.0 x4 slot.
- There are two units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
- This slot physically fits up to x16 cards, but runs at x4 bandwidth.
Factory configurations only include one GPU.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the GPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.) Remove the brace.
- Unscrew the two back thumbscrews holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket.
- The empty PCIe slot covers will come loose, and can also be removed.
- If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable (or cables) from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.
- While holding the GPU, push the PCIe latch release button (highlighted red below) and remove it from the slot.
- If the latch release button doesn't work, you can manually press the PCIe latch (highlighted green) for the corresponding slot using a long, flat object to free the card.
- After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cable.
- Once the GPU is installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, and top case.
- The side GPU brace includes screws to adjust for the height and length of the graphics cards.
- The chassis includes multiple sets of screw holes for the side GPU brace to accomodate minor adjustments in graphics card depth; the brace will ship with either short or long GPU fingers (short fingers pictured below), depending on the GPU that was ordered with the machine.
The GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPU.
Replacing the case fans:
Thelio Major R3 has two case-mounted intake fans:
- A 140mm fan on the bottom of the chassis.
- A 92mm fan on the right side of the chassis.
The fans connect to the Thelio-IO board using a Y splitter cable mounted on the inner corner of the case.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the bottom case fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- The GPU brace can optionally be removed for easier access to the fans and cables.
- Release the velcro strap and unplug the fan's cable from the Y splitter cable.
- The bottom case fan's cable is round with a mesh net covering.
- Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
- To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.
- Remove the old fan from the case.
- When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
- The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case.
- The cable runs along the inner corner of the case, and does not pass through any of the cable management holes.
Steps to replace the side case fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- The GPU brace can optionally be removed for easier access to the fans and cables.
- Release the velcro strap and unplug the fan's cable from the Y splitter cable.
- The side case fan's cable is flat with four wires.
- Unscrew the four fan screws from the opposite side of the machine.
- Remove the old fan from the case.
- When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
- The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case.
- The cable runs along the inner corner of the case, and does not pass through any of the cable management holes.
Removing the CPU shroud:
The CPU shroud guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots, top GPU, and spare 2.5" drive screws.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the CPU shroud:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace.
- The GPU can also optionally be removed to provide more room for working with the components.
- Unplug the connectors for the CPU fans from the splitter board on the chassis, next to the top right corner of the motherboard.
- The splitter board provides the same signal to both ports, so it doesn't matter which fan is plugged into which port.
- By default, the back fan (long cable) is plugged into the top port (
J2
), while the front fan (short cable) is plugged into the bottom port (J3
).
- Unscrew the four back thumbscrews and two crossbar screws holding the CPU shroud in place.
- Pull the CPU shroud away from the machine.
Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:
Thelio Major R3 supports up to four 2.5" SATA III drives.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional), flathead screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover, highlighted green below.
- If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).
- For revisions where the black plastic ring is located over the CPU shroud, the ring can be popped out from below using a flathead screwdriver, or by hand after removing the CPU shroud.
- Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
- Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.
Thelio Major R3 with one 2.5" drive installed.
- Replace the black plastic screw ring and the 2.5" drive bay cover.
Replacing the RAM:
Thelio Major R3 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR5 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of up to 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU shroud.
- Removing the CPU shroud is optional, but is recommended to provide easier access to the RAM slots.
- To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top and bottom latches away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot.
- Make sure the tabs on the top and bottom of the slot are open (pulled away from the slot), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
- The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
- Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks:
- Replace the top case.
Replacing the M.2 drives:
Thelio Major R3 has four M.2 storage slots. All four slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 5 at x4 bandwidth, sizes 2280 or 25110, and the M key pin arrangement.
M.2 slots 2 and 3 (the bottom two slots) share bandwidth with the PCIe 5.0 x16 slot (the primary GPU slot). If an SSD is installed in M.2 slots 2 or 3, then the PCIe 5.0 x16 slot (the primary GPU slot) will operate at x8 bandwidth. For this reason, M.2 slots 1 and 4 (the top two slots) should be used first.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and the GPU brace and GPU.
- Unscrew and remove the M.2 heatsink.
- Slot 1 is located underneath the single-height heatsink; slots 2, 3, and 4 are located underneath the triple-height heatsink.
- The heatsink screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the heatsink.
- It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.
- For the M.2 drive(s) being removed, push the tab upwards to rotate the circular locking ring; the drive will pop away from the motherboard.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot; while holding the circular locking ring open, push the drive towards the motherboard.
- While holding the drive in place, let go of the circular locking ring. The ring will rotate back to the closed position.
- Replace the M.2 heatsink, CPU shroud, GPU, GPU brace, and top case.
- If you are populating an SSD slot for the first time, remove any protective plastic that may be covering the thermal tape.
Replacing the CPU fans:
Thelio Major R3 contains two CPU fans mounted within the CPU shroud. The front fan is a Noctua NF-F12, and the back fan is a Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the shroud-mounted CPU fans:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- For the fan being replaced, unscrew the four screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU shroud.
- The front fan's screws are highlighted yellow; the back fan's screws are highlighted red.
- Unscrew the four screws attaching the bracket to the fan.
- When reinstalling the fans:
- The front fan's spinning side should face the bracket's screws; the back fan's stationary cover should face the bracket's screws.
- The back bracket should face the back of the shroud, and the front bracket should face the front of the shroud.
- There are two sets of possible screwholes for each bracket; for each bracket, the frontmost set of screwholes (closest to the bent side of the shroud) should be used.
- Once installed, both fans should have their spinning sides facing the front of the machine and their stationary covers facing the back of the machine.
- Both cables should be oriented towards the top edge of the motherboard (the top corner of the open side of the shroud.)
- Overtightening the fan bracket's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.
Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:
The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.
The CPU uses an AMD AM5 socket. The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U12S.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPU, and remove the CPU shroud.
- While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler crossbar onto the vertical mounting brackets.
- The screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the crossbar.
- Only the two outer screws need to be removed; the center screw holding the horizontal crossbar onto the heatsink does not need to be removed.
- The cooler will come away from the CPU.
- Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
Steps to replace the CPU:
- Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
- Unscrew and remove the cooler mounting bracket on the right side of the CPU.
- Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
- Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.
- Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
- The CPU holder opens in the opposite direction from the locking pin.
- Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
- Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
- Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
- The triangle on the CPU should be oriented to match the triangle on the CPU cover, pointing towards the top left of the motherboard.
- Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.
- Reinstall the right-side cooler mounting bracket.
Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:
- Draw an
X
shape of thermal paste onto the CPU.
- Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
- The cooler should be oriented so the text is readable from the right side (front of the case).
- Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
- Set the computer upright, then reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU shroud, GPU, GPU bracket, and top case.
Replacing the power supply:
The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the pre-installed cabling.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the power supply:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and bottom GPU.
- Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
- Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.
- Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket.
- One screw is located on the opposite side of the case.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.
- Remove/replace the PSU.
- Set the replacement PSU on top of the rubber post that holds it at the correct height.
- The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.
- After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
- Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- two 8-pin (6 + 1) connectors are to be plugged into the GPUs.
- If the replacement PSU has an
ECO
switch, make sure it is switched on for an optimal fan curve.
Replacing the Thelio-IO board:
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If the Thelio-IO board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.
Steps to replace the Thelio-IO board:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and any 2.5" drives that are installed.
- Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.
- The topmost connector requires pulling the white tab while unplugging.
- Unscrew the two screws on the top side of the drive cage.
- While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
- Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.
Thelio-IO wiring guide:
- When wiring the Thelio-IO board, refer to the above image and the following guide. The ports are numbered in the suggested connection order based on position and size.
- 1:
POWER0
- to the power supplyPERIF
port (via 4-pin Molex adapter.) - 2:
INTAKE0
- to the case fans (via a Y splitter cable). - 3:
CPUOUT0
- to the splitter board (near the top edge) connecting to both shroud-mounted CPU fans. - 4:
CPUIN0
- to theCPU_FAN
header at the top of the motherboard. - 5:
DATA0/1/2/3
- to SATA ports #0/#1/#2/#3 on the motherboard, highlighted green below.- The ports are located next to the top GPU slot.
- These connectors provide data transfer for the 2.5" drive slots.
- 6*:
PFP0
- to the power button receptacle on the front panel. - 7*:
USB0
- to theF_USB1
header on motherboard, highlighted cyan above.- On the Thelio-IO board, the row of four pins plugs in, while the row of five pins hangs off the back and does not plug in.
- This connector provides fan control and firmware updates.
- 8*:
PMB0
- to the+PLED-
and+PW-
pins (the four top-left pins of theF_PANEL
header) on the motherboard, highlighted red above.- On the motherboard, the red wire goes on the inner-left and the blue wire goes on the inner-right. The corresponding black wires go on the outer-left and outer-right.
- * For all connectors with multi-colored wires plugging into the Thelio-IO board, the red wire goes on the top side (viewing from the front of the computer.)
- 1:
Troubleshooting the power button:
If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:
- Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
- Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
- Check the wiring for the front power button.
- Replace the front power button, if necessary.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
- Push the small button labeled
B0
on the Thelio-IO board.
- If the Thelio-IO
B0
button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring. - If the Thelio-IO
B0
button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.
Steps to check the front power button wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:
- On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right (when viewed from the back of the computer.)
- The front power button receptacle should plug into the
PFPD
port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)
Steps to replace the power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.
Thelio Massive (thelio-massive-b1.2)
The System76 Thelio Massive is a desktop with the following specifications:
- CPU options
- Up to two matching CPUs
- Supports 2nd Gen Intel Xeon Scalable processors
- Motherboard
- ASUS WS C621E SAGE running System76 Firmware (non-open)
- Intel C621 chipset
- Daughterboard
- Thelio Io board running open-source firmware
- GPU options
- Up to four GPUs (PCIe 3.0 x16)
- GPU size:
- Internal clearance: 544.90mm
- Recommended maximum length: 534.90mm
- Tested with the following GPUs:
- AMD Radeon RX 550
- HDMI 2.0b, DisplayPort 1.4, Dual-Link DVI-D
- AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT
- HDMI 2.0b, 3x DisplayPort 1.4
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 Super
- HDMI 2.0b, 2x DisplayPort 1.4, Dual-Link DVI-D, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super
- HDMI 2.0b, 3x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Super
- HDMI 2.0b, 3x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti
- HDMI 2.0b, 3x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA Titan RTX
- HDMI 2.0b, 3x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- AMD Radeon RX 550
- Memory
- Up to 1536GB (12x128GB) six-channel Registered ECC DDR4 DIMMs @ 2933 MHz
- Up to 768GB (6x128GB) per CPU
- Networking
- 2x Gigabit Ethernet (Intel I210-AT)
- Optional Gigabyte Wireless-AC (a/b/g/n/ac) with Bluetooth
- Power
- EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W G2 80+ Gold Certified PSU
- C19 power cord
- Sound
- 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
- Optical S/PDIF out
- Up to 7.1-channel audio output
- Realtek ALC S1220A audio chipset
- HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe or SATA)
- 8x 2.5" SATA
- 4x 2.5" U.2 (NVMe) SAS
- SD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C
- 1x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-A
- 4x USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-A
- 2x USB 2.0 Type-A
- Dimensions
- 49.2cm x 26.2cm x 52.7cm
Thelio Massive (External Overview)
Back side overview:
Audio Port Guide:
- Green: Line Out / Front Speaker Out
- Pink: Mic In
- Light Blue: Line In / Side Speaker Out
- Orange: Center/Subwoofer Out
- Black: Rear Speaker Out
- White (square): S/PDIF Digital Out
Power Switch Guide:
- 1: On
- 0: Off
Thelio Massive (Internal Overview)
Side overview:
- RAM slots are highlighted in green
- PCIe slots are highlighted in red
- M.2 SSD is highlighted in cyan
- Power supply is highlighted in yellow
- 2.5" drive slots are highlighted in purple
- Thelio-IO to motherboard connections are highlighted in olive
PCIe slot guide:
From top to bottom:
- PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 4)
- Only available if two CPUs are installed
- PCIe Gen 3 x8 slot
- Only available if two CPUs are installed
- PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 1)
- Runs at x8 if slot 4 (immediately below) is also in use
- PCIe Gen 3 x8 slot
- PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 2)
- PCIe Gen 3 x8 slot
- Only available if two CPUs are installed
- PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 3)
- Only available if two CPUs are installed
See the repairs page for GPU installation instructions, including recommended GPU placement.
Top overview:
- RAM slot clips are highlighted in green
- Top exhaust fans are highlighted in yellow
- SATA ports are highlighted in cyan
- SAS (U.2) ports are highlighted in purple
- Power button receptacle is highlighted in red
Thelio Massive (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Thelio Massive can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the top case
- Removing the inner partition
- Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives
- Replacing the case fans
- Replacing a GPU
- Replacing the M.2 drive
- Removing the CPU shroud
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing the CPU fans
- Replacing the CPU cooler
- Replacing the CPU/thermal paste
- Replacing the top exhaust fans
- Troubleshooting the power button
- Troubleshooting the Thelio-IO USB connection
Removing the top case:
The top case can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top case:
- Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.
- Slide the top case up and off of the machine.
Removing the inner partition:
The inner partition provides a brace for the outer case and helps hold the internal components in place. The partition needs to be removed to access most internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the inner partition:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the three additional back screws holding the inner partition in place from the back.
- Unscrew the three inner screws holding the partition in place from the side.
- Lift the inner partition away from the case.
Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:
Thelio Massive b1.2 supports up to eight 2.5" SATA III drives and up to four 2.5" U.2 NVMe drives (with SAS connectors.)
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the plastic screw cover onto the inner partition.
- Pop out one of the black plastic rings and slide four screws (per drive) out of the inner partition.
- Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
- Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots above the Thelio-IO boards.
In the below photo, the eight SATA slots are highlighted green, while the four U.2/SAS slots are highlighted blue.
Replacing the case fans:
Thelio Massive b1.2 has four case-mounted fans: two on the bottom, and two on the side next to the motherboard.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Unscrew the fan's screws on the opposite side from where it's mounted. (For the bottom fans, the machine will need to be tilted to access the screws on the bottom.)
- Unplug and remove the fan.
- When replacing the fan, the components should be mounted in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
Replacing a GPU:
Thelio Massive supports up to four dual-slot GPUs with PCIe 3.0 x16. Mixing NVIDIA and AMD GPUs is not recommended.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace a GPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Unscrew the four back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, then remove the PCIe bracket.
- If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.
- Hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
- If removing one of the inner GPUs, it may be necessary to remove one of the outer GPUs first in order to reach the latch.
- If space is tight, a long object such as a screwdriver can be used to press the latch.
- When installing new GPUs, the slots should be utilized in the following order:
- Primary GPU: third slot from the top.
- Secondary GPU: fifth slot from the top.
- Tertiary GPU: seventh slot from the top (bottom slot).
- Quaternary GPU: top slot.
- After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cables. The maximum number of power cables are preinstalled in your system, but some may be tied back using velcro if the system shipped with less than four GPUs.
- Once all GPUs are installed, replace the back PCIe bracket, inner partition, and top case.
- The inner partition includes a plastic GPU brace, which may be sized differently depending on how many GPUs your system shipped with. To remove the brace, unscrew it from the inner partition.
The plastic GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPUs.
Replacing the M.2 drive:
Thelio Massive has one M.2 slot, which supports either PCIe NVMe Gen 3 x4 or SATA III. The following M.2 sizes are supported: 2242, 2260, 2280, 22110.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the GPUs.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- Replace the GPUs, inner partition, and top case.
Removing the CPU shroud:
The CPU shroud guides airflow through the CPU coolers. It covers the CPUs and RAM slots on the motherboard.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the CPU shroud:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Unplug the connectors for the two top exhaust fans. (The top exhaust fans are secured to the CPU shroud.)
The connectors (highlighted above) attach the top exhaust fans to extension cables, which attach to a five-port hub along with the CPU fans. It is not necessary to remove the extension cables.
- Unscrew the three back screws holding the CPU shroud in place.
- Unscrew the three side screws holding the CPU shroud in place (on the opposite side from the motherboard.)
- Pull the CPU shroud away from the machine.
Note for older revisions: thelio-massive-b1.0 included two additional screws connecting the top crossbar to the CPU shroud. The top crossbar is not attached to the CPU shroud on this revision.
Replacing the RAM:
Thelio Massive b1.2 supports up to 1536GB (12x128GB) of RAM, or 768GB (6x128GB) per CPU. The RAM sticks are Registered ECC DDR4 DIMMs running at a speed of 2933MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the CPU shroud.
- To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top latch up away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the top edge. (The bottom of the RAM slot does not move.)
-
Insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot. The RAM stick will only fit in one direction; the larger group of pins goes on top. Use the following guides for placement of the RAM sticks:
- Single-CPU RAM slot placement:
- Dual-CPU RAM slot placement:
- Single-CPU RAM slot placement:
-
Replace the CPU shroud, inner partition, and top case.
Replacing the CPU fans:
Thelio Massive b1.2 contains four CPU fans (two per CPU.) All coolers and fans are preinstalled, regardless of how many CPUs the system shipped with.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CPU fans:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Each fan is secured by two clips (one on each side). Pull the clip down (away from the fan), then sideways (away from the heatsink) to release the fan.
- Once the fan is free, lift it away from the heatsink and unplug the four-pin connector attaching it to the Y-cable.
- Two Y-cables connect two CPU fans each to a five-port hub, which also connects to the extension cables for the top exhaust fans.
- The top exhaust fans plug into ports "FAN1" and "FAN2", while the CPU fans plug into ports "FAN3" and "FAN4". The port labeled "CPU" is left disconnected.
- If necessary, lift the bracket off of the old fan and place it onto the new fan.
- Clip the fan back onto the heatsink and plug it into the Y-cable.
Replacing the CPU cooler:
Thelio Massive b1.2 contains two CPU coolers (one for each CPU.) Each cooler contains two fans. All coolers and fans are preinstalled, regardless of how many CPUs the system shipped with.
Tools required: Hex key (included in Thelio Massive case), cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the CPU cooler:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the CPU shroud, and remove the CPU fans for the cooler you are removing.
- Locate the hex key/Allen wrench, which is attached to the case via the velcro cable ties behind the motherboard.
- While holding the cooler in place so it doesn't fall, loosen the cooler's screws in reverse order, starting with the center screws (labeled #2), then the corner screws (labeled #1).
- The corner screws require reaching the hex key through the holes in the heatsink.
The CPU cooler screws are held in place by springs, and will not detatch once they are loosened.
- Once all four screws are loosened, the CPU cooler (including the CPU) will lift away from the motherboard.
- Caution: Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
- When replacing the CPU cooler, tighten the screws in the order they are labeled, starting with the corner screws (labeled #1), then the center screws (labeled #2).
- See Replacing the CPU/thermal paste for more information about correctly orienting the CPU/cooler.
Replacing the CPU/thermal paste:
The CPUs clip into the heatsinks before the heatsinks are installed onto the motherboard.
Tools required: Hex key (included in Thelio Massive case), cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the CPU/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the CPU shroud, remove the CPU fans, and remove the CPU cooler.
- The CPU is held onto the heatsink by two plastic clips. Release one of the clips by pulling down on the large plastic tab, then carefully lift the CPU off of the heatsink.
- Caution: Do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
- It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Remove the black plastic clip from the heatsink by pulling the tabs on each corner.
- Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- Place the black plastic clip back onto the heatsink and apply thermal paste to the heatsink.
- Place the CPU back into the black plastic clip. One corner of the CPU and one corner of the clip are marked with triangles; be sure to match these triangles together.
- Place the heatsink/CPU back onto the motherboard, matching the triangles on the plastic clip/CPU (highlighted above) with the diagonal corner on the CPU socket (highlighted below).
- See Replacing the CPU cooler for more information about re-attaching the cooler to the motherboard.
Replacing the top exhaust fans:
The top exhaust fans assist the CPU fans in expelling hot air from the case.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the top exhaust fans:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition. (The CPU shroud can optionally be removed.)
- Unscrew the three screws attaching the fan to the CPU shroud.
- Unplug the fan from the extension cable and remove it from the case.
- Screw the new fan into the CPU shroud, plug it in, and replace the inner partition and top case.
Troubleshooting the power button:
If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:
- Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
- Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
- Check the wiring for the front power button.
- Replace the front power button, if necessary.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
- Push the small button labeled B0 on the Thelio-IO board closest to the front corner of the case.
Steps to check the front power button wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:
- On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.
- The front power button receptacle should plug into the
PFPD
port on the Thelio-IO board closest to the front corner of the machine, with the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.
- The
PMBD
port on the Thelio-IO board should connect to the motherboard:- The red wire on the four-port connector should be on the left (the farthest in) on the Thelio-IO board.
- The other side of the cable connects to the bottom right of the motherboard:
- The individual black wire plugs into
POWERLED+
. - The individual red wire plugs into
POWERLED-
. - The two-wire connector plugs into
POWERBTN#
andGND
, with the blue wire on the left (intoPOWERBTN#
.)
- The individual black wire plugs into
Steps to replace the power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.
Troubleshooting the Thelio-IO USB connection:
The Thelio-IO boards connect to the motherboard's USB headers for firmware updates and fan control within the host OS. If the fans seem to be stuck on full blast, check the Thelio-IO USB connections.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to check the USB wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Two of the Thelio-IO boards have
USB0
ports. The port on each board connects to a four-pin cable with the red wire on the left (farthest into the case). - The two four-pin cables plug into the motherboard's USB headers just to the left of the M.2 slot.
Thelio Mega (thelio-mega-r1.0)
The System76 Thelio Mega is a desktop with the following specifications:
- CPU options
- Motherboard
- Gigabyte TRX40 Aorus Xtreme (rev. 1.0 or 1.1) running System76 Firmware (non-open)
- AMD TRX40 chipset
- Daughterboard
- Thelio Io board running open-source firmware
- GPU options
- Up to four GPUs, depending on configuration (2x PCIe 4.0 x16 and 2x PCIe 4.0 x8)
- GPU size:
- Internal clearance: 425.80mm
- Recommended maximum length:415.80mm
- Tested with the following GPUs:
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 4000 (maximum 4)
- 3x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA GeForce 2080 Ti (maximum 4)
- HDMI 2.0b, 3x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 (maximum 3)
- HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 5000 (maximum 4)
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 6000 (maximum 4)
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 8000 (maximum 4)
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 4000 (maximum 4)
- Memory
- Up to 256GB (8x32GB) quad-channel ECC Unbuffered DDR4 DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
- Networking
- 2x 10-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel 10GbE LAN chip)
- Combined total is 10Gbit/s; ports will run at 5Gbit/s if used at the same time.
- Wi-Fi 6 (Intel AX200)
- 2x 10-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel 10GbE LAN chip)
- Power
- EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W T2 80+ Titanium Certified PSU
- C19 power cord
- Sound
- 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
- Optical S/PDIF out
- Up to 7.1-channel audio output
- Realtek ALC4050H + ALC1220-VB audio chipset
- HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
- Storage
- 4x M.2 (PCIe Gen 4)
- Backwards compatible with M.2 SATA and PCIe Gen 3.
- 8x 2.5" SATA
- When using all four M.2 slots, some SATA ports will not function. See Parts & Repairs for details.
- 4x M.2 (PCIe Gen 4)
- USB
- 7x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 47.8cm x 26.3cm x 43.8cm
Thelio Mega (External Overview)
Back side overview:
Audio Port Guide:
- Top row, left to right:
- Optical S/PDIF Out (square)
- Rear Speaker Out
- Center/Subwoofer Out
- Bottom row, left to right:
- Mic in
- Line Out / Front Speaker Out
- Line In / Side Speaker Out
Power Switch Guide:
- 1: On
- 0: Off
Note: The Q-Flash+ button (next to the CMOS reset button) is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of the Q-Flash+ button is not recommended.
Thelio Mega (Internal Overview)
Side overview:
- CPU cooler is highlighted in olive
- RAM slots are highlighted in red
- PCIe slots are highlighted in green
- M.2 slots are highlighted in dashed cyan (located underneath the heatsink)
- 2.5" SATA drive slots are highlighted in pink
- Power supply is highlighted in purple
- Thelio-IO to motherboard connections are highlighted in yellow
- CPU shroud fan connectors are highlighted in orange
- Inner partition (GPU) fan connectors are highlighted in solid cyan
PCIe slot guide:
From top to bottom:
- PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 1)
- PCIe Gen 4 x8 slot (GPU 4)
- PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 2)
- PCIe Gen 4 x8 slot (GPU 3)
See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.
Thelio Mega (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Thelio Mega can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the top case
- Removing the inner partition
- Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives
- Replacing the case fans
- Replacing a GPU
- Replacing the M.2 drives
- Removing the CPU shroud
- Replacing the RAM
- Removing the top crossbar
- Replacing the CPU fans
- Replacing the CPU cooler/thermal paste and CPU
- Replacing the power supply
- Replacing the side fans
- Replacing the Thelio-IO boards
- Troubleshooting the power button
- Troubleshooting the Thelio-IO USB connection
Removing the top case:
The top case can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top case:
- Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.
- Slide the top case up and off of the machine.
Removing the inner partition:
The inner partition provides a brace for the outer case and helps hold the internal components in place. The partition needs to be removed to access most internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the inner partition:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the three additional back screws holding the inner partition in place from the back.
- Unplug the two side fan connectors, highlighted cyan below.
- Unscrew the two inner screws holding the partition in place from the side.
- Lift the inner partition away from the case.
Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:
Thelio Mega r1.0 supports up to eight 2.5" SATA III drives. When using four M.2 drives, the following restrictions apply:
- If the bottom right M.2 slot has a SATA drive installed, then 2.5" SATA ports 4 and 5 will be unavailable (leaving a maximum of six 2.5" SATA drives.)
- If the bottom right M.2 slot has a PCIe NVMe drive installed, then 2.5" SATA ports 4, 5, 6, and 7 will be unavailable (leaving a maximum of four 2.5" SATA drives.)
To use all eight 2.5" SATA III slots, use three or less M.2 drives and leave the bottom right M.2 slot empty. See Replacing the M.2 drives to add, remove, or rearrange M.2 drives.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- If you are adding a new drive, unscrew the hard drive screw cover from the inner partition (shown below), then remove the inner partition.
- Pop out one of the black plastic rings and slide four screws (per drive) out of the inner partition.
- Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
- Unscrew the top cover if you are accessing the top four 2.5" slots, or the bottom cover if you are accessing the bottom four 2.5" slots.
- Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO boards.
Replacing the case fans:
Thelio Mega r1.0 has two case-mounted fans: one on the bottom, and one on the side next to the motherboard.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the side case fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Unscrew the fan's screws on the opposite side from where it's mounted.
- Unplug and remove the fan.
- When replacing the fan, the components should be mounted in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
Steps to replace the bottom case fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Pull the rubber tabs until they come loose from the plastic pins holding the fan in place.
- When replacing the fan, hold the rubber tabs in place while pushing the plastic pins in from below the machine (it's necessary to tilt the machine when inserting the plastic pins.)
- The components should be mounted in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
Replacing a GPU:
Thelio Mega supports up to four dual-slot GPUs, two with PCIe 4.0 x16 and two with PCIe 4.0 x8 (x16 cards will run at reduced bandwidth in the x8 slots.) Mixing NVIDIA and AMD GPUs is not recommended.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace a GPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, then slide the PCIe bracket open.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place. Remove the brace.
- If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.
- Hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
- If removing one of the inner GPUs, it may be necessary to remove one of the outer GPUs first in order to reach the latch.
- If space is tight, a long object such as a screwdriver can be used to press the latch.
- When installing new GPUs, the slots should be utilized in the following order:
- Primary GPU: top slot.
- Secondary GPU: third slot from the top.
- Tertiary GPU: fourth slot from the top (bottom slot).
- Quaternary GPU: second slot from the top.
- After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cables.
- The maximum number of power cables are preinstalled in your system, but some may be tied back using velcro if the system shipped with less than four GPUs.
- Once all GPUs are installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, inner partition, and top case.
- The side GPU brace includes a plastic piece sized to the GPUs that originally shipped with the system. To remove the plastic piece, unscrew it from the brace.
The plastic GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPUs.
Replacing the M.2 drives:
Thelio Mega has four M.2 slots, which support PCIe NVMe Gen 4 x4, PCIe NVMe Gen 3 x4, or SATA III. The following restrictions apply:
- Top M.2 slot: Supports sizes 22110, 2280, and 2260.
- Middle M.2 slot: Supports sizes 22110 and 2280.
- Bottom left M.2 slot: Supports sizes 22110 and 2280.
- Bottom right M.2 slot:
- Supports size 2280.
- If a SATA drive is installed in this slot, then 2.5" SATA ports 4 and 5 will be unavailable.
- If a PCIe NVMe drive is installed in this slot, then 2.5" SATA ports 4, 5, 6, and 7 will be unavailable.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 23 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the GPU brace and GPUs.
- Remove the M.2 heatsink covering the slots you wish to access.
- The top and middle M.2 slots are behind the top M.2 heatsink (highlighted cyan below).
- The bottom left and bottom right M.2 slots are behind the bottom M.2 heatsink (highlighted yellow below).
It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. Pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- If utilizing a slot for the first time, peel the plastic backing off of the heatsink to expose the double-sided thermal tape for that slot.
- Replace the M.2 heatsinks, GPUs, GPU brace, inner partition, and top case.
Removing the CPU shroud:
The CPU shroud guides airflow through the CPU coolers. It covers the CPU and RAM slots on the motherboard.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the CPU shroud:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the GPU brace.
- Unplug the connectors for the two CPU shroud-mounted fans.
- Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU shroud in place.
- Pull the CPU shroud away from the machine.
Replacing the RAM:
Thelio Mega r1.0 supports up to 256GB (8x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are Unregistered/Unbuffered ECC DDR4 DIMMs running at a speed of 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the bottom latch down away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the bottom edge. (The top of the RAM slot does not move.)
The CPU cooler has been removed for better visibility in the above photo; removing the CPU cooler is not required to access all eight of the RAM slots.
- Make sure the tab on the bottom of the slot is open (pulled downwards), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
- The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. On the left side of the CPU, the larger group of pins goes on bottom; on the right side of the CPU, the larger group of pins goes on top.
- Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks:
- Replace the CPU shroud, GPU brace, inner partition, and top case.
Removing the top crossbar:
The top crossbar provides a brace for the outer case. It needs to be removed when replacing certain components (such as the top Thelio-IO board and the CPU cooler-mounted fan.)
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top crossbar:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unplug the two top fan connectors.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the top crossbar in place (two on the front of the machine, and two on the back.)
- Lift the top crossbar out of the system. (It is not necessary to unplug the fan cable underneath the top crossbar unless you are replacing that cable or the Thelio-IO board it plugs into.)
Replacing the CPU fans:
Thelio Mega r1.0 contains three CPU fans. Two are mounted on the CPU shroud, and one is mounted on the cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the shroud-mounted CPU fans:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- To remove the back CPU shroud fan, unscrew the four screws holding the fan brackets into the shroud (highlighted green below).
- Free the cable from the velcro loop (highlighted blue above), then unscrew the four screws holding the brackets onto the fan.
- To remove the front CPU shroud fan, unscrew the four screws attaching the front of the shroud to the back (highlighted red above).
- Then, unscrew the four screws attaching the fan to the shroud.
Steps to replace the cooler-mounted CPU fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, remove the CPU shroud, and remove the top crossbar.
- Pull the corners of the fan's top clip away from the heatsink it's held to.
- Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then slide the fan down and out of the CPU cooler.
- Unplug the fan from the Thelio-IO board.
- The CPU cooler fan plugs directly into the
CPUOUT0
port on the bottom Thelio-IO board.
- The CPU cooler fan plugs directly into the
- When reinstalling the CPU fans, all three fans should be oriented so the side with the non-spinning cover faces the back of the machine, while the spinning side faces the front of the machine.
Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:
The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.
The CPU uses an AMD sTRX4 socket.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (long), torx screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 35 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, remove the CPU shroud, remove the top crossbar, and remove the cooler-mounted CPU fan.
- Unscrew the two screw access covers from the holes in the cooler plate.
- While holding the cooler in place so it doesn't fall, reach a cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver through the holes in the cooler plate and loosen the two screws holding the cooler onto the mounting bracket.
- The cooler will come away from the CPU.
- The two screws on the crossbar attaching the CPU cooler to the mounting bracket are held to the crossbar with small rubber rings.
- If the rubber rings become detached, slide them back onto the screws before reinstalling the cooler.
- Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
Steps to replace the CPU:
- Unscrew the four screws holding the two mounting brackets onto the motherboard.
- The black plastic standoff covers will also come loose once the mounting bracket screws are removed. Remember to replace the black plastic standoff covers when reinstalling the mounting brackets.
- Using the torx screwdriver, loosen the three CPU cover screws in reverse order (starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.)
- These screws will not come out of the CPU cover when they are fully loosened.
- The CPU cover will lower once its screws are loosened. There may be additional remnants of thermal paste underneath the CPU cover.
- Pull the blue metal tabs away from the motherboard to flip the CPU holder down on top of the CPU cover.
- Caution: Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
- Pull the orange tab to slide the CPU out of the CPU holder.
- Each AMD Threadripper CPU is shipped inside of an orange plastic clip, so it should not be necessary to remove the CPU from the orange plastic clip. However, if desired (such as to clean off additional thermal paste), the plastic clip can be removed by pulling it back near each of the tabs holding the CPU in place.
- When reinstalling the CPU into the clip, be sure to match the original orientation, with the triangle on the CPU closest to the tab on the plastic clip.
- Slide the new CPU into the CPU holder. Make sure the orange CPU clip aligns properly with the black rails on the CPU holder.
- Fold the CPU holder up onto the motherboard until it clicks into place, fold the CPU cover back into place, and tighten the CPU cover screws in ascending order (starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.)
- Screw the two mounting brackets for the CPU cooler back onto the motherboard (the smaller bracket goes above the CPU, while the larger bracket goes below the CPU.)
Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:
- Place a line of thermal paste onto the CPU.
- Slide the CPU cooler crossbar on the back of the heatsink until the grooves are positioned correctly.
- While holding the crossbar onto the heatsink, hold the heatsink in position and use the long cross-head screwdriver (inserted through the holes in the cooler plate) to screw each end of the crossbar into one of the mounting brackets.
- The logo on the cooler should be upright.
- The rubber strips on the inside of the cooler should be closest to the back of the machine, while the rubber strips on the outside of the cooler should be closest to the front of the machine.
- Reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, top crossbar, CPU shroud, GPUs, GPU bracket, inner partition, and top case.
Replacing the power supply:
The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio Mega.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the power supply:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition and remove the GPU brace and GPUs.
- Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
- Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.
- Unscrew the PSU bracket from the reverse side of the case.
- Unscrew the PSU bracket from the bottom of the case.
- Remove the PSU bracket.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.
- Remove/replace the PSU. Set the replacement PSU on top of the two rubber posts that hold it at the correct height.
- The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.
- After screwing in the replacement PSU and replacing the PSU bracket, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
- Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- eight connectors (on four cables) are to be plugged into the GPUs.
- If the replacement PSU has an "ECO Mode" switch, make sure it is switched on.
Replacing the side fans:
Thelio Mega r1.0 has two intake fans mounted on the inner partition. The fans can be replaced if they become defective/noisy.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the side fans:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Pull the rubber tabs until they come loose from the plastic pins holding the fan in place.
- Pull the end of the fan cable through the opening and release any velcro strips that are holding it in place.
- When replacing the fan, hold the rubber tabs in place while pushing the plastic pins in from the opposite side.
Replacing the Thelio-IO boards:
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If one of the Thelio-IO boards becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the top crossbar, and remove the front cover from the 2.5" drive cage for the Thelio-IO board that is being replaced.
- Use the cutouts on the opposite side of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board that is being replaced.
- Unscrew the two screws on the top of the upper drive cage (for the top Thelio-IO board) or the bottom of the lower drive cage (for the bottom Thelio-IO board).
- While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
- Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.
Troubleshooting the power button:
If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:
- Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
- Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
- Check the wiring for the front power button.
- Replace the front power button, if necessary.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
- Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
- Push the small button labeled
B0
on the top Thelio-IO board.
- If the Thelio-IO
B0
button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring. - If the Thelio-IO
B0
button does not work, press thePower
button in the top right of the motherboard.
- If the motherboard
Power
button works, but the Thelio-IOB0
button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.- The second Thelio-IO board's power ports can be used if the first board becomes defective.
- If the motherboard
Power
button does not work, then the issue may be the motherboard, or it may be the power supply or its connection to the motherboard. Ensure all connections are plugged in properly and that the power supply is switched to the 1 (On) position.
Steps to check the front power button wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:
- On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.
- The front power button receptacle should plug into the
PFPD
port on the top Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the bottom and the black wire on the top.
- The
PMBD
port on the Thelio-IO board should connect to an adapter:- The red wire on the four-port connector should be on the bottom on the Thelio-IO board.
- The other side of the cable connects to the adapter, with the red wire on the top left, the blue pair immediately following the red pair, and a black wire on the right.
- The adapter should connect to the
F-PANEL
(front panel) input on the motherboard.
Steps to replace the power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.
Troubleshooting the Thelio-IO USB connection:
The Thelio-IO boards connect to the motherboard's USB headers for firmware updates and fan control within the host OS. If the fans seem to be stuck on full blast, check the Thelio-IO USB connections.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to check the USB wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Two of the Thelio-IO boards have
USB0
ports. The port on each board connects to a cable (labeledUSB
) with the red wire on the bottom.
- The two internal USB cables plug into the motherboard's USB headers.
Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-b1.0)
The System76 Thelio Mira is a desktop with the following specifications:
- CPU options
- Supports Intel 10th and 11th Generation (Comet Lake and Tiger Lake) CPUs
- Motherboard
- ASUS ROG STRIX Z590-A GAMING WIFI running System76 Firmware (non-open)
- Intel Z590 chipset
- Daughterboard
- Thelio Io board running open-source firmware
- GPU options
- Up to two GPUs, depending on configuration (2x PCIe 4.0/3.0 x16)
- GPU size:
- Internal clearance: 318.80mm
- Recommended maximum length: 308.80mm
- Tested with the following GPUs:
- Integrated Graphics
- HDMI 2.0 (11th Gen) or 1.4 (10th Gen), DisplayPort 1.4
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 (maximum 1)
- HDMI 2.0b, DisplayPort 1.4a, DL-DVI-D
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 (maximum 1)
- HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti (maximum 1)
- HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 (maximum 1)
- HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti (maximum 1)
- HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti (maximum 1)
- HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 (maximum 1)
- HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 4000 (maximum 2)
- 3x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 5000 (maximum 2)
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 6000 (maximum 2)
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- NVIDIA Quadro RTX 8000 (maximum 2)
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4, DisplayPort over USB-C (VirtualLink)
- Integrated Graphics
- Expansion
- 2x PCIe 4.0/3.0 x16 (GPU slots)
- 1x PCIe 4.0/3.0 x16 (additional slot; single-height cards only)
- 1x PCIe 3.0 x4
- Memory
- Up to 128GB (4x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
- Kingston HyperX HX432C16FB3/8 (8GB/stick)
- Kingston HyperX HX432C16FB4/16 (16GB/stick)
- Kingston HyperX HX432C16FB3K4/128 (32GB/stick)
- Networking
- 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel I225-V)
- Wi-Fi 6 (Intel AX200)
- Power
- C13 power cord
- 650W minimum PSU
- Dual-GPU configurations require 750W or 1000W, depending on GPU power requirements
- Tested with the following PSU models (may ship with other tested models):
- Sound
- 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
- Up to 7.1-channel audio output
- Realtek ALC4080 audio chipset (with Savitech SV3H712 amplifier)
- HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4), M key
- Backwards compatible with PCIe NVMe Gen 3.
- Only active with 11th Gen CPUs.
- 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3), M key
- Backwards compatible with SATA III.
- 4x 2.5" SATA
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4), M key
- USB
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
- 4x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-C
- 4x USB 2.0 Type-A
- Dimensions
- 43.635cm × 25.3cm × 33.1cm
Thelio Mira (External Overview)
Back side overview:
Audio Port Guide:
- Top row, left to right:
- Rear Speaker Out
- Center/Subwoofer Out
- Bottom row, left to right:
- Mic in
- Line Out / Front Speaker Out
- Line In / Side Speaker Out
Power Switch Guide:
- 1: On
- 0: Off
Other Notes:
- The
ECO
switch on the power supply should always be set toON
for an optimal fan curve. - The BIOS Flash button is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of the BIOS Flash button is not recommended.
Thelio Mira (Internal Overview)
Side overview:
- CPU cooler & CPU cooler fan are highlighted in solid green
- CPU fan connectors are highlighted in solid pink
- RAM slots are highlighted in dashed red
- 2.5" SATA drive slot cover is highlighted in dashed pink
- M.2 slots are highlighted in dashed cyan (located underneath the heatsinks)
- PCIe x16 slots are highlighted in yellow
- Top slot (dashed yellow) is behind the GPU
- PCIe x4 slot is highlighted in purple
- Power supply is highlighted in navy
- Bottom case fan is highlighted in solid red
- Thelio-IO to motherboard connections are highlighted in dashed green
- CMOS battery is highlighted in white
PCIe slot guide:
From top to bottom:
- PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 1)
- Runs with x8 bandwidth if slots 2 or 4 are in use.
- Runs at Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen CPUs.
- PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 2)
- Runs with x4 bandwidth.
- Runs at Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen CPUs.
- PCIe Gen 3 x4 slot
- PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot
- Runs with x4 bandwidth.
- Runs at Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen CPUs.
See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.
Thelio Mira (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Thelio Mira can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the top case
- Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing the bottom case fan
- Replacing a GPU
- Removing the CPU shroud
- Replacing the M.2 drives
- Replacing the CPU fans
- Replacing the CPU cooler/thermal paste and CPU
- Replacing the power supply
- Replacing the Thelio-IO board
- Troubleshooting the power button
Removing the top case:
The top case can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top case:
- Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.
- Slide the top case up and off of the machine.
Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:
Thelio Mira b1.0 supports up to four 2.5" SATA III drives.
If the middle and bottom M.2 slots are used with M.2 SATA drives, the motherboard's SATA ports #2 and #6 will become disabled; however, SATA ports #2 and #6 are not used for 2.5" SATA drives in Thelio Mira. If any 2.5" drives are not being detected and M.2 SATA drives are being used, try changing the ports used for the SATA connections between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover.
- If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).
- Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
- Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.
Replacing the RAM:
Thelio Mira b1.0 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR4 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top latch up away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the top edge. (The bottom of the RAM slot does not move.)
- Make sure the tab on the top of the slot is open (pulled upwards), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
- The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
- Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks:
- Replace the top case.
Replacing the bottom case fan:
Thelio Mira b1.0 has one case-mounted intake fan on the bottom of the chassis.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the bottom case fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unplug the fan's cable from the Thelio-IO daughterboard.
- The bottom case fan plugs into the
INTAKE0
port on the Thelio-IO board. - When viewed from the front of the case, this connector is second from the top.
- The bottom case fan plugs into the
- Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
- To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.
- Remove the old fan from the case.
- When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
- Thread the new fan's cable through the opening in the bottom-front corner of the case and through the velcro connector near the front edge.
Replacing a GPU:
Thelio Mira supports up to two dual-slot GPUs. All PCIe x16 slots run at Gen 4 speeds with 11th Gen processors, or Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen processors. Mixing NVIDIA and AMD GPUs is not recommended.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace a GPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, then slide the PCIe bracket open.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place. Remove the brace.
- If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.
- Hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
- If removing the bottom GPU, it may be necessary to remove the top GPU first in order to reach the latch.
- If space is tight, a long object such as a screwdriver can be used to press the latch.
- When installing new GPUs, the slots should be utilized in the following order:
- Primary GPU: top slot.
- Secondary GPU: second slot from the top.
- After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cables.
- The maximum number of power cables are preinstalled in your system, but some may be tied back using velcro if the system shipped with less than two GPUs.
- Once all GPUs are installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, and top case.
- The side GPU brace includes screws to adjust for the height of the graphics cards (highlighted green below) and the depth of the graphics cards (highlighted blue.)
The GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPUs.
Removing the CPU shroud:
The CPU shroud guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots and top GPU.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the CPU shroud:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace.
- Unplug the connectors for the CPU fans.
- Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU shroud in place.
- Pull the CPU shroud away from the machine.
Replacing the M.2 drives:
Thelio Mira has three M.2 slots. All slots support M.2 sizes 22110, 2280, 2260, and 2242. The following restrictions apply:
- Top M.2 slot:
- Only works with 11th Gen CPUs.
- Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4 and PCIe NVMe Gen 3.
- Middle M.2 slot:
- Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III.
- Bottom M.2 slot:
- Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and GPUs.
- If you are accessing the top M.2 slot, remove the CPU shroud.
- Remove the M.2 heatsink covering the slot you wish to access.
- The heatsink screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the heatsink.
- It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.
- Free the retaining mechanism opposite the M.2 slot.
- The top M.2 slot uses a regular Phillips screw.
- The middle and bottom M.2 slots use a plastic locking mechanism.
- To free a drive, twist the plastic ring counter-clockwise until the tab points away from the M.2 slot.
- To secure a drive, twist the plastic ring clockwise until the tab points upwards.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- If utilizing the top slot for the first time, peel the blue plastic covering off of the gray thermal tape on the motherboard.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw or secure the plastic retaining tab.
- If utilizing any slot for the first time, peel the plastic backing off of the heatsink to expose the double-sided thermal tape for that slot.
- Replace the M.2 heatsinks, CPU shroud, GPUs, GPU brace, and top case.
Replacing the CPU fans:
Thelio Mira b1.0 contains two CPU fans. One is mounted on the CPU shroud, and one is mounted on the cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the shroud-mounted CPU fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Unscrew the four screws (two on each side) holding the fan brackets onto the shroud.
- Removing the brackets from the shroud is not required to remove the fan, but it makes installing the fan much easier.
- Unscrew the four screws attaching the two brackets to the fan.
- When reinstalling the fan into the CPU shroud, the spinning side should face the CPU cooler and the front of the case, while the side with a stationary cover should face the back of the case.
- Overtightening the fan bracket's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.
Steps to replace the cooler-mounted CPU fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Pull the corners of the fan's top clip away from the heatsink it's held to.
- Alternatively, the opposite side of the bracket (clipped onto the heatsink) can be released first.
- Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then pull the fan and clips away from the CPU cooler.
- When reinstalling the CPU cooler fan, the side with a stationary cover should face the CPU cooler and back of the case, while the spinning side should face the front of the case.
Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:
The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.
The CPU uses an Intel LGA 1200 socket. The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U12S.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (long), torx screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 35 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, remove the CPU shroud, and remove the cooler-mounted CPU fan.
- While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler onto the vertical mounting brackets.
- The cooler will come away from the CPU.
- Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
Steps to replace the CPU:
- Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
- Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
- Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.
- Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
- Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
- Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
- Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
- When reinstalling the CPU, be sure to match the original orientation, with the triangle on the CPU pointing to the bottom left of the motherboard.
- The triangle on the CPU should match the triangle on the top of the CPU cover and the dot on the motherboard.
- Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.
Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:
- Place a line of thermal paste onto the CPU.
- Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
- Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
- Reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU shroud, GPU bracket, and top case.
Replacing the power supply:
The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio Mira.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the power supply:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and bottom GPU.
- Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
- Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.
- Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket.
- One screw is located on the opposite side of the case.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.
- Remove/replace the PSU. Set the replacement PSU on top of the rubber post that holds it at the correct height.
- The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.
- After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
- Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- four connectors (on two cables) are to be plugged into the GPUs.
- If the replacement PSU has an "ECO Mode" switch, make sure it is switched on for an optimal fan curve.
Replacing the Thelio-IO board:
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If the Thelio-IO board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.
Steps to replace the Thelio-IO board:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and any 2.5" drives that are installed.
- Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.
- Unscrew the two screws on the top of the upper drive cage closest to the Thelio-IO board.
- While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
- Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.
Thelio-IO wiring guide:
- When wiring the Thelio-IO board, refer to the above image and the following guide.
- 1:
POWER0
- to power supply (via 4-pin Molex adapter.) - 2:
INTAKE0
- to bottom case fan. - 3:
CPUOUT0
- to CPU fan splitter board on top crossbar. - 4:
CPUIN0
- toCPU_FAN
header on motherboard. - 5:
SATA0/1/2/3
- to SATA ports #1/#3/#4/#5 on motherboard. (These connectors provide data transfer for the 2.5" drive slots.) - 6*:
PFP0
- to power button receptacle on front panel. - 7*:
USB0
- to USB header on motherboard. (This connector provides fan control and firmware updates.) - 8*:
PMB0
- toPWR_LED-
andPWR_SW
headers on motherboard. - * For all connectors with multi-colored wires plugging into the Thelio-IO board, the red wire goes on top.
- 1:
Troubleshooting the power button:
If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:
- Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
- Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
- Check the wiring for the front power button.
- Replace the front power button, if necessary.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
- Push the small button labeled
B0
on the Thelio-IO board.
- If the Thelio-IO
B0
button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring. - If the Thelio-IO
B0
button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.
Steps to check the front power button wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:
- On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.
- The front power button receptacle should plug into the
PFPD
port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)
Steps to replace the power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.
Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r3)
The System76 Thelio Mira is a desktop with the following specifications:
- Processor options
- Supports AMD Ryzen 7000 series (Zen 4) CPUs
- Motherboard
- Gigabyte X670 Aorus Elite AX running System76 Firmware (non-open)
- AMD X670 chipset
- Daughterboard
- Thelio Io board running open-source firmware
- Graphics options
- Up to two dedicated GPUs
- Primary GPU slot:
- PCIe 4.0 x16
- Up to 4-slot height
- Secondary GPU slot:
- PCIe 4.0 x4
- Fits physical x16 cards, runs at x4 bandwidth
- Up to 2-slot height
- PCIe 4.0 x4
- Primary GPU slot:
- GPU size:
- Internal clearance: 318.80mm
- Recommended maximum length: 308.80mm
- Tested with the following GPUs:
- Integrated Graphics
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030
- 1x HDMI 2.0b, 1x DisplayPort 1.4, 1x DVI-D (single-link)
- AMD Radeon RX 6500 XT
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a
- AMD Radeon RX 6600
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti
- 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
- NVIDIA RTX A2000
- 4x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- NVIDIA RTX A4000
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4
- NVIDIA RTX A6000
- 4x DisplayPort 1.4a
- Requires 750W+ PSU
- Integrated Graphics
- Up to two dedicated GPUs
- Expansion
- 1x PCIe 4.0 x16 (primary GPU slot)
- 1x PCIe 4.0 x4 (secondary GPU slot)
- Fits physical x16 cards, runs at x4 bandwidth
- 1x PCIe 4.0 x2
- Fits physical x16 cards, runs at x2 bandwidth
- Memory
- Up to 128GB (4x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 DIMMs @ 3600 MHz
- 64GB (2x32GB) and less runs at 4800 MHz
- Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
- Crucial CT8G48C40U5 (8GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-8 (8GB/stick)
- Crucial CT16G48C40U5 (16GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-16 (16GB/stick)
- Crucial CT32G48C40U5 (32GB/stick)
- Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-32 (32GB/stick)
- Up to 128GB (4x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 DIMMs @ 3600 MHz
- Networking
- 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet (Realtek RTL8125)
- Wi-Fi 6E + Bluetooth 5.2 (AMD/MediaTek RZ616)
- Power
- C13 power cord
- 650W minimum PSU
- Some GPU configurations require 750W PSU
- Tested with the following PSU models (may ship with other tested models):
- Sound
- 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
- Up to 7.1-channel audio output
- Realtek ALC897 audio chipset
- HDMI, DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 5) SSD
- 3x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSDs
- 4x 2.5" SATA III
- USB
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
- Does not support Thunderbolt or DisplayPort over USB-C.
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 6x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 4x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 43.635cm × 25.3cm × 33.1cm
Thelio Mira (External Overview)
Back overview:
Power Switch Guide:
- 1: On
- 0: Off
Other Notes:
- The
ECO
(ECO Mode) switch on the power supply should always be set toON
for an optimal fan curve. - The
BIOS
(BIOS Flash) button is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of the BIOS Flash button is not recommended.
Front/side overview:
Top/bottom overview:
Thelio Mira (Internal Overview)
Left side overview:
- CPU cooler & CPU are highlighted in red (located behind the CPU shroud)
- RAM slots are highlighted in green
- 2.5" SATA drive cage is highlighted in pink
- M.2 slots are highlighted in white (located underneath the GPU & heatsinks)
- GPU (in PCIe 4.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in yellow
- PCIe 4.0 x4 and x2 slots are highlighted in dark blue
- Power supply is highlighted in cyan
- Bottom case fan is highlighted in orange
Right side overview:
- Thelio-IO access cutout is highlighted in green
- Power supply access cutout is highlighted in red
Front side overview:
- Thelio-IO connector access cutout is highlighted in green
Top overview:
- 2.5" drive screws are highlighted in green
- CPU power connector is highlighted in red
- Connects to power supply
- Motherboard CPU fan header is highlighted in yellow
- Connects to Thelio-IO board
- Power button receptacle is highlighted in cyan
- Connects to Thelio-IO board
See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.
Thelio Mira (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Thelio Mira can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the initial revision for this generation (R3-0). Minor case details may vary on newer units, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details should remain the same unless otherwise noted.
Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Replacing the front accent strip
- Removing the top case
- Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives
- Replacing the bottom case fan
- Replacing the GPU
- Removing the CPU shroud
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing the M.2 drives
- Replacing the CPU fans
- Replacing the CPU cooler/thermal paste and CPU
- Replacing the power supply
- Replacing the Thelio-IO board
- Troubleshooting the power button
Replacing the front accent strip:
Thelio Mira includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.
Tools required: None
Time estimate: 30 seconds
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the front accent strip:
- Place the Thelio on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
- The Thelio can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
- Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
- The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
- Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
- Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.
Removing the top case:
The top case can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the top case:
- Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.
- Slide the top case up and off of the machine.
Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:
Thelio Mira R3 supports up to four 2.5" SATA III drives.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover, highlighted green below.
- If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).
- Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
- Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.
Thelio Mira R3 with one 2.5" drive installed.
- Replace the black plastic screw ring and the 2.5" drive bay cover.
Replacing the bottom case fan:
Thelio Mira R3 has one case-mounted intake fan on the bottom of the chassis.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the bottom case fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unplug the fan's cable from the Thelio-IO daughterboard.
- The bottom case fan plugs into the
INTAKE0
port on the Thelio-IO board. - When viewed from the front of the case, this connector is second from the top.
- The bottom case fan plugs into the
- Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
- To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.
- Remove the old fan from the case.
- When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
- Chassis
- Dust filter
- Acrylic spacer
- Fan
- The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case.
- The cable runs along the inner corner of the case, and does not pass through any of the cable management holes or velcro strips.
Replacing the GPU:
Thelio Mira supports two multi-slot dedicated GPUs:
- The top GPU slot is a PCIe 4.0 x16 slot.
- There are four units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
- The bottom GPU slot is a PCIe 4.0 x4 slot.
- There are two units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
- This slot is forwards-compatible with x16 cards.
Factory configurations only include one GPU.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the GPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place. Remove the brace.
- If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.
- Push and hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
- After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cable.
- Once the GPU is installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, and top case.
- The side GPU brace includes screws to adjust for the height and depth of the graphics cards.
The GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPU.
Removing the CPU shroud:
The CPU shroud guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots and top GPU.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the CPU shroud:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace.
- The GPU can also optionally be removed to provide more room for working with the components.
- Unplug the connectors for the CPU fans from the splitter board on the top crossbar.
- The splitter board provides the same signal to both ports, so it doesn't matter which fan is plugged into which port.
- Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU shroud in place.
- Pull the CPU shroud away from the machine.
Replacing the RAM:
Thelio Mira R3 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR5 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of up to 4800MHz (the maximum 4x32GB configuration is limited to 3600MHz). If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU shroud.
- Removing the CPU shroud is optional, but is recommended to provide easier access to the leftmost RAM slot.
- To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top and bottom latches away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot.
- Make sure the tabs on the top and bottom of the slot are open (pulled away from the slot), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
- The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
- Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks:
- Replace the top case.
Replacing the M.2 drives:
Thelio Mira R3 has four M.2 storage slots. All four slots are M key and size 2280.
- Slot 1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 5.
- Slots 2, 3, and 4 support PCIe NVMe Gen 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Unscrew and remove the M.2 heatsink.
- Slot 1 is located underneath the single-height heatsink; slots 2, 3, and 4 are located underneath the triple-height heatsink.
- The heatsink screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the heatsink.
- It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.
- For the M.2 drive(s) being removed, push the rectangular side of the retaining clip to flip it open.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Flip the retaining clip back into place and push the circular side until it snaps closed.
- Replace the M.2 heatsink, CPU shroud, GPU, GPU brace, and top case.
- If you are populating an SSD slot for the first time, remove any protective plastic that may be covering the thermal tape.
- When installing the Slot 1 heatsink, fit the tab on the opposite end from the screw into the motherboard standoff before lining up the screw.
Replacing the CPU fans:
Thelio Mira R3 contains two CPU fans. One is mounted on the CPU shroud, and one is mounted on the CPU cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the shroud-mounted CPU fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Free the fan cable from the velcro loop, highlighted cyan below.
- Unscrew the four screws (two on each side) holding the fan bracket onto the shroud.
- Removing the bracket from the shroud is not required to remove the fan, but it makes installing the fan much easier.
- Unscrew the four screws attaching the bracket to the fan.
- When reinstalling the fan into the CPU shroud, the spinning side should face inward (towards the front of the chassis), and the cable should point towards the closed corner of the top side of the shroud (the top-right corner, when viewed from the back.)
- Overtightening the fan bracket's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.
Steps to replace the cooler-mounted CPU fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU shroud.
- Pull the corners of the fan's top clip away from the heatsink it's held to.
- Alternatively, the opposite side of the bracket (clipped onto the heatsink) can be released first.
- Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then pull the fan and clips away from the CPU cooler.
- When reinstalling the CPU cooler fan, the side with a stationary cover should face the cooler, while the spinning side should face the front of the chassis.
- The cable should point towards the top inner corner (top-left when viewed from the back of the case.)
Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:
The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.
The CPU uses an AMD AM5 socket. The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U12S.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPU, remove the CPU shroud, and remove the cooler-mounted CPU fan.
- While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler crossbar onto the vertical mounting brackets.
- The screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the crossbar.
- Only the two outer screws need to be removed; the center screw holding the horizontal crossbar onto the heatsink does not need to be removed.
- The cooler will come away from the CPU.
- Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
Steps to replace the CPU:
- Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
- Unscrew and remove the cooler mounting bracket on the right side of the CPU.
- Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
- Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.
- Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
- The CPU holder opens in the opposite direction from the locking pin.
- Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
- Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
- Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
- The triangle on the CPU should be oriented to match the triangle on the CPU cover, pointing towards the top left of the motherboard.
- Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.
- Reinstall the right-side cooler mounting bracket.
Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:
- Draw an
X
shape of thermal paste onto the CPU.
- Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
- The cooler should be oriented so the text is readable from the right side (front of the case).
- Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
- Set the computer upright, then reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU shroud, GPU, GPU bracket, and top case.
Replacing the power supply:
The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the power supply:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and bottom GPU.
- Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
- Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.
- Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket.
- One screw is located on the opposite side of the case.
- Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.
- Remove/replace the PSU.
- Set the replacement PSU on top of the rubber post that holds it at the correct height.
- The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.
- After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
- Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- two 8-pin (6 + 1) connectors are to be plugged into the GPUs.
- If the replacement PSU has an
ECO
switch, make sure it is switched on for an optimal fan curve.
Replacing the Thelio-IO board:
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If the Thelio-IO board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.
Steps to replace the Thelio-IO board:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and any 2.5" drives that are installed.
- Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.
- The topmost connector requires pulling the white tab while unplugging.
- Unscrew the two screws on the top side of the drive cage.
- While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
- Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.
Thelio-IO wiring guide:
- When wiring the Thelio-IO board, refer to the above image and the following guide. The ports are numbered in the suggested connection order based on position and size.
- 1:
POWER0
- to the power supplyPERIF
port (via 4-pin Molex adapter.) - 2:
INTAKE0
- to the bottom case fan. - 3:
CPUOUT0
- to the splitter board (on the top crossbar) connecting to both CPU fans. - 4:
CPUIN0
- to theCPU_FAN
header at the top of the motherboard. - 5:
DATA0/1/2/3
- to SATA ports #0/#1/#2/#3 on the motherboard, highlighted green below.- The ports are located next to the top GPU slot.
- These connectors provide data transfer for the 2.5" drive slots.
- 6*:
PFP0
- to the power button receptacle on the front panel. - 7*:
USB0
- to theJUSB1
header on motherboard, highlighted red below.- On the Thelio-IO board, the row of four pins plugs in, while the row of five pins hangs off the back and does not plug in.
- This connector provides fan control and firmware updates.
- 8*:
PMB0
- to the+PLED-
and+PW-
pins (the four top-left pins of theF_PANEL
header) on the motherboard.- On the motherboard, the red wire goes on the inner-left and the black wire goes on the inner-right. The corresponding black wires go on the outer-left and outer-right.
- The
F_PANEL
header is at the bottom right of the motherboard.
- * For all connectors with multi-colored wires plugging into the Thelio-IO board, the red wire goes on the top side (viewing from the front of the computer.)
- 1:
Troubleshooting the power button:
If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:
- Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
- Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
- Check the wiring for the front power button.
- Replace the front power button, if necessary.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
- Push the small button labeled
B0
on the Thelio-IO board.
- If the Thelio-IO
B0
button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring. - If the Thelio-IO
B0
button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.
Steps to check the front power button wiring:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:
- On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right (when viewed from the back of the computer.)
- The front power button receptacle should plug into the
PFPD
port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)
Steps to replace the power button:
- Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
- Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.
Introduction
System76 provides laptops, desktops, servers, and accessories. This book contains technical documentation for System76 hardware. The source can be viewed on GitHub.
Current Models
- Adder WS (addw3)
- Bonobo WS (bonw15)
- Darter Pro (darp8)
- Galago Pro (galp6)
- Gazelle (gaze18)
- Kudu (kudu6)
- Launch (launch_2)
- Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_1)
- Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)
- Lemur Pro (lemp12)
- Meerkat (meer6)
- Oryx Pro (oryp10)
- Oryx Pro (oryp9)
- Pangolin (pang12)
- Serval WS (serw13)
- Thelio (thelio-b4)
- Thelio Major (thelio-major-r3)
- Thelio Massive (thelio-massive-b1.2)
- Thelio Mega (thelio-mega-r1.0)
- Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-b1.0)
- Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r3.0)
Previous Models
- Adder WS (addw2)
- Adder WS (addw1)
- Bonobo WS (bonw14)
- Darter Pro (darp7)
- Darter Pro (darp6)
- Galago Pro (galp5)
- Galago Pro (galp4)
- Gazelle (gaze17)
- Gazelle (gaze16)
- Gazelle (gaze15)
- Launch (launch_1)
- Lemur Pro (lemp11)
- Lemur Pro (lemp10)
- Lemur Pro (lemp9)
- Meerkat (meer5)
- Oryx Pro (oryp8)
- Oryx Pro (oryp7)
- Oryx Pro (oryp6)
- Pangolin (pang11)
- Pangolin (pang10)
- Serval WS (serw12)
- Thelio Major (thelio-major-b1/b2/r1/r2)
- Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r1.0)
Adder WS (addw2)
The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 10th Generation (Comet Lake) CPUs
- BIOS
- MX25L12872F flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware or non-open firmware
- MX25L12872F flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC or non-open EC firmware
- Graphics
- GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super
- eDP display: 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
- OLED panel: Samsung ATNA56WR06 (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C13
- 62Wh 6-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III) SSD-1
- M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3) SSD-2
- 2.5" (7.0mm) SATA III
- SD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- 3x USB 3.0 (3.2 Gen 1) Type-A
- Dimensions
- 35.890cm x 25.806cm x 2.997cm, 2.5kg
Adder WS (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Lock screen and toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
LED indicators
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | DC power plugged in |
Green | Computer is on | |
Blinking green | Computer is sleeping | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Airplane mode is on (WiFi/Bluetooth disabled) |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
![]() | Green | Num Lock enabled |
![]() | Green | Caps Lock enabled |
![]() | Green | Scroll Lock enabled |
![]() | Off | GPU in MSHYBRD Mode |
Green | GPU in Discrete Mode |
Adder WS (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- RAM slots are highlighted in navy
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
- 2.5" storage drive is highlighted in dark green
- Wireless card is highlighted in purple
- Fan connectors are highlighted in light red
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in pink
- Speaker connector is highlighted in cyan
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Front LED connector is highlighted in orange
- Battery connector is highlighted in yellow
- BIOS flash chip (U60) is highlighted in black
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Bottom panel screws are highlighted in red
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
- CMOS battery is highlighted in cyan
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in pink
Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the battery
- Removing the keyboard
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing a 2.5" storage drive
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two battery screws, highlighted green below.
- Lift the battery out of the chassis.
Removing the keyboard:
The keyboard (and built-in keyboard backlight) can be replaced using the instructions below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine upright and pull the keyboard out of the top case, starting from the top and working toward the bottom.
- Once freed, lift the bottom of the keyboard to see the ribbon cables. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- If you are not replacing the keyboard, the keyboard can be flipped over onto the touchpad without disconnecting the ribbon cables.
- Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access most internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the keyboard.
- Remove the two under-keyboard screws holding the bottom panel in place from the top.
- Remove the remaining 10 bottom panel screws.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Adder WS 2 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports only PCIe NVMe Gen 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
SSD-1 is on the left (closest to the battery slot), while SSD-2 is on the right (closest to the 2.5" drive slot.)
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing a 2.5" storage drive:
This model supports one 2.5" (7mm height) SATA III SSD or hard drive.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the single screw holding the 2.5" drive bracket into the case.
- Slightly lift the loose end of the 2.5" drive and slide it out of the SATA port.
- Unscrew the two screws holding the 2.5" drive into the drive bracket (one on either side.)
- Insert the new 2.5" drive into the drive bracket and replace the two side screws.
- Plug the 2.5" drive into the SATA port and set the drive into the case.
- Screw the drive bracket back into the case.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place.
- Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
- Pick the CMOS battery up from the open side of the battery slot (on the right).
- To clear the CMOS, remove the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Replace the CMOS battery, keyboard, and main battery.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Adder WS 2 has a single heatsink with two attached fans. The entire cooling assembly should be replaced together (fans cannot be removed individually.)
If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the two white fan connectors, highlighted red below.
- Remove the six heatsink screws and four fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #10.
- The heatsink screws are spring-loaded, and will not detatch from the heatsink when unscrewed.
- Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU/GPU chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the six heatsink screws and four fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #10.
- Plug in the two white fan connectors.
Adder WS (addw1)
The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Coffee Lake-U CPUs
- BIOS
- MX25L12873F flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
- MX25L12873F flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT8587E
- Programmed with non-open EC firmware
- Graphics
- GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070
- eDP display: 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
- OLED panel: Samsung ATNA56WR06 (or equivalent)
- External video output:
- 1x HDMI (w/HDCP)
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.3
- 1x DisplayPort 1.3 over USB 3.1 Type C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB dual-channel DDR4 @ 2666 MHz, or
- Up to 32GB dual-channel DDR4 @ 3000 MHz
- Power
- 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C13
- Removable 62Wh 6-cell battery
- 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
Adder WS (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Bottom case screw sizes
The Adder WS uses a single size of screw for securing the bottom case, battery, and keyboard.
Front LED lights
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | DC power plugged in |
Green | Computer is on | |
Blinking green | Computer is sleeping | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Airplane mode is on (WiFi/Bluetooth disabled) |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
![]() | Green | Num Lock enabled |
![]() | Green | Caps Lock enabled |
![]() | Green | Scroll Lock enabled |
![]() | Off | GPU in MSHYBRD Mode |
Green | GPU in Discrete Mode |
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Lock screen and toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
External Displays
The Adder WS supports Mini DisplayPort, HDMI, and DisplayPort over USB-C connections for external displays.
Adder WS (Internal Overview)
Bottom panel overview:
- GPU fan is highlighted in cyan
- GPU fan is highlighted in light orange
- RAM is highlighted in green
- M.2 SSD is highlighted in orange
- Wireless/Bluetooth module is highlighted in purple
- Battery is highlighted in white
- 2.5" drive bay is highlighted in blue
- BIOS flash chip (U61), not highlighted
Under-the-keyboard overview:
- CMOS battery is highlighted in red
Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)
Many components on your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Replacing the keyboard
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing a 2.5" storage drive
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the external battery
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
Replacing the keyboard:
Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 2 total - 2 x M2 (black)
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 2 keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons.
- Open the Adder WS and place it on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the Adder WS down, then starting from the top side, pull the keyboard loose.
- Flip the keyboard over onto the trackpad.
- Pull the large ribbon cable out of the connector.
- The small ribbon cables have latches. Gently pull the latches from both sides and remove the ribbon cables.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Insert the large ribbon cable into the connector.
- Seat the small ribbon cables, then apply pressure equally to both sides of the connector to secure.
- Flip the keyboard over and press the bottom tabs of the keyboard into the case.
- Secure the keyboard by pressing down on the edges of the keyboard.
- Flip the Adder WS over.
- Replace the 2 screws holding the keyboard in place.
- Boot your Adder WS and confirm the keyboard is operational.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Screws: 14 total - 12 x M2 perimeter (black); 2 x M2 keyboard (black)
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the external battery.
- Remove the keyboard.
- Remove the two screws underneath the keyboard labeled ‘M2’.
- Remove the 12 perimeter screws.
- The bottom cover will lift off, starting from the front corners working to the back near the hinges.
Steps to replace the bottom cover:
- Align the bottom cover to the case towards the back and hinges.
- Set the bottom cover along the edges and confirm the bottom cover is seated.
- Replace the 12 perimeter screws.
- Replace the 2 keyboard screws.
Replacing the RAM:
RAM acts as temporary storage for your computer. More RAM generally provides better performance. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
M.2 SSDs offer, at minimum, SATA III speeds and performance in a package about the size of a stick of gum. NVMe M.2 SSDs offer even higher performance. The Adder WS supports two M.2 SSDs, size 2280, either M.2 SATA or NVMe M.2 PCIe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the M.2 drive (or slot.)
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing a 2.5" storage drive:
This model supports one 2.5" (7mm height) SATA III SSD or hard drive.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
- Follow the steps to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the single screw holding the 2.5" drive bracket into the case.
- Slightly lift the loose end of the 2.5" drive and slide it out of the SATA port.
- Unscrew the two screws holding the 2.5" drive into the drive bracket (one on either side.)
- Insert the new 2.5" drive into the drive bracket and replace the two side screws.
- Plug the 2.5" drive into the SATA port and set the drive into the case.
- Screw the drive bracket back into the case.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
In rare cases, or after several years, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the CPU heatsink screws.
- Remove the screws, starting with #10, then #9, and continue until you have removed #1.
- Carefully remove the heatsink/fans from the case.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU core.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #10. Do not fully tighten until sets #1-#3 and #4-#6 are in place, then fully tighten all screws for each set (#1-#3 and #4-#6).
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the Adder WS's CMOS chip. Changes you make to the BIOS and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your Adder WS doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
- Locate the CMOS battery. Use a thin plastic tool to remove the CMOS battery.
- Power up the Adder WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior.
- Press F2 to enter the BIOS.
- Choose the "Setup Utility".
- Press F9 to Load Setup Defaults.
- Click on "Advanced" in the left menu.
- Choose "Advanced Chipset Control".
- Choose "ME State" and set this option to "Disabled".
- Press F10 to save and resume normal boot.
Replacing the external battery
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the external battery
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two screws that hold the battery and then remove the battery.
- Place the new battery in and then add the two screws back.
Replacing the wireless card
Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless card.
- Gently remove the two antennas by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the wireless card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fitting and pressing onto the wireless card. The connector will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Adder WS (UEFI Setup & Specifications)
When starting your Adder WS, it takes a few seconds to conduct a quick check of the components. As it proceeds, it will notify you if anything is wrong. Any issues that prevent the system from booting will be displayed and you will be prompted to enter the Setup. If no problems are detected, your Adder WS will load GRUB for Ubuntu or systemd-boot for Pop!_OS.
- For Setup/BIOS, hold F2 while booting.
- For boot options, hold F7 while booting and choose your preferred boot device.
Updating the BIOS
BIOS/UEFI firmware updates and instructions are sent out as needed. The firmware manager will notify you if a firmware update is available for your Adder WS. You can also check for updates under Settings -> Devices -> Firmware in Pop!_OS, or using the Firmware Manager app in Ubuntu.
BIOS overview
The BIOS/UEFI Setup utility allows you to make low-level changes to your Adder WS. It's not recommended to make changes unless the settings are provided by Support or you understand what you're changing.
Setup Utility
-
SATA Port #: Opens the sub-menu to show the configuration of a SATA device on the SATA ports.
-
OffBoard SATA/NVMe Controller Configuration: Opens the sub-menu to show the configuration of any devices on the offboard SATA/NVMe controller, if installed.
-
System Date/Time: Sets the system date/time using the hardware clock.
-
System/Extended Memory: Displays information about the amount of RAM installed.
-
ME FW/MB Series/BIOS Version/KB/EC Firmware Rev: Displays information about the BIOS version(s).
-
MAC Address: Displays the network adapter's hardware address.
Advanced
-
Advanced Chipset Control: Options for FlexiCharger, GPU Performance Scaling, Intel Speed Shift Technology, VT-d, UEFI OS Fast Boot, Software Guard Extensions (SGX), ME State, HeadPhone PC Beep Sound Support.
-
FlexiCharger: Options to enable/disable FlexiCharger. FlexiCharger will not start charging the battery unless it is below the lower threshold, and will stop charging the battery at the upper threshold. Using FlexiCharger for extended periods of time will decrease the battery indicator's accuracy.
-
GPU Performance Scaling: NVIDIA GPU Performance Scaling Support. Disabling this may cause issues with booting.
-
Intel Speed Shift Technology: Enabling will expose the CPPCv2 interface to allow for hardware controlled P-states (power states.)
-
VT-d: Enable/disable Intel Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O. Extends Intel Virtualization Technology (VT) by providing hardware assets for virtual hypervisors.
-
UEFI OS Fast Boot: When enabled, the system firmware does not initialize the keyboard or check for the firmware menu key.
-
Software Guard Extensions (SGX): Enable or disable Intel SGX (Software Guard Extensions.)
-
ME State: Intel Management Engine. Recommended to Disable.
-
Headphone PC Beep Sound Support: If disabled, there will be no alarm beep sound at boot time though the headphones.
-
-
Thunderbolt(TM) Configuration:
-
Discrete Thunderbolt(TM) Support: Enable or disable Thunderbolt(TM) Support.
-
Security Level: Security level selection for Thunderbolt(TM).
-
-
OverClocking Performance Menu: Memory overclocking options.
- Memory: Select the DIMM timing profile. For 3000MHz memory, use the XMP1 profile.
-
SATA Mode: The SATA (Seral ATA) controller is designed to operate in AHCI (Advanced Host Controller Interface) mode only.
-
Power on boot beep: Enable/disable a beep as the computer starts up.
-
Battery low alarm beep: Enable/disable a beep when the battery is critically low.
Security
-
Set Supervisor Password: Sets a password for the Setup Utility. This does not affect access to the computer or installed OS, only the BIOS/UEFI.
-
TPM Configuration: Trusted Computing settings.
- Security Device Support: Enables or disables BIOS support for the TPM 2.0 security device.
Administer Secure Boot
- Secure Boot: Enables support for Secure Boot. This is not recommended or required for Ubuntu/Pop!_OS.
Boot
-
EFI: Sets the boot order and chooses which boot devices are enabled.
-
UEFI Setting: Contains other settings regarding boot devices.
-
Network Stack: Enables or disables support for Intel PXE network boot.
-
IPv4 PXE Support: Allow PXE booting using IPv4.
-
IPv6 PXE Support: Allow PXE booting using IPv6.
-
Specifications
-
Processors:
-
Intel® CoreTM i7-9750H (4.1GHz): 2.6 up to 4.50GHz - 12MB Cache – 6 Cores – 12 Threads
-
Intel® CoreTM i9-9980HK (4.1GHz): 2.4 up to 5.0GHz - 16MB Cache – 8 Cores – 12 Threads
-
-
Display: 15.6” 4K (3840x2160) OLED Glossy
-
Memory:
- Dual Channel DDR4
- Two 260-pin SO-DIMM sockets
- Supports DDR4 2666MHz memory modules (real operational frequency depends on the FSB of the processor.)
- Memory expandable up to 64GB (compatible with 8GB/16GB/32GB modules.)
-
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070
-
Storage:
- Two M.2 SSD 2280 slots, supporting SATA and PCIe Gen3x4
- One 2.5" 7mm SATA slot
-
Audio:
- High Definition audio interface
- S/PDIF Digital output
- Built-in Array Microphone
- Two built-in speakers
- SoundBlasterX® Pro-Gaming 360° DAC
-
Touchpad & Keyboard:
- ClickPad with multi-touch gesture and scrolling functionality
- A4-size isolated keyboard
-
Webcam: 720p HD Video Camera with USB interface
-
Interfaces:
- 1 HDMI (with HDCP)
- 1 Mini DisplayPort 1.3
- 1 DisplayPort 1.3 over USB 3.1 Gen 2 (Type-C)
- 1 USB 3.1 Gen 2 / ThunderboltTM 3 Port (Type-C)
- 3 USB 3.0 Ports (Type A, 1x powered USB port, AC/DC)
- 1 2-in-1 Audio Jack (Microphone + S/PDIF Optical output)
- 1 2-in-1 Audio Jack (Headphone + Microphone)
- 1 RJ-45 LAN (10/100/1000Mbps)
-
Card Reader: Embedded Multi-in-1 Card Reader, supporting SD/Mini SD/SDHC/SDXC up to UHS-II/MMC/RS MMC.
-
M.2 Slots:
- **Slot 1:** for M.2 2230 WLAN combo module with PCIe & USB interfaces (A Key).
- Slot 2: for SSD M.2 2280 card with SATA/PCIe Gen 3 x4 Interface (M Key).
- Slot 3: for SSD M.2 2280 card with SATA/PCIe Gen 3 x4 Interface (M Key).
-
Network:
- Built-in 10/100/1000Mb Base-TX Ethernet LAN
- Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 9560 (2*2 802.11 a/c) WLAN + Bluetooth M.2 2230 Combo Module (867Mbps)
-
Power and battery:
- Full Range AC/DC Adapter
- AC input 100 - 240V, 50 - 60Hz,
- DC Output 19.5V, 11.8A (230Watts)
- Embedded smart Lithium-Ion battery pack (62WH)
-
Security:
- Security (Kensington® Type) Lock Slot
- Disabled ME
- BIOS/UEFI Password
- Trusted Platform Module 2.0 (disabled by default)
-
Operating System: Pop!_OS or Ubuntu
-
LED Indicators: Power/Suspend, Battery, HDD, Airplane Mode, Camera
-
Environmental:
- Temperature:
- Operating: 5°C - 35°C
- Non-operating: -20°C - 60°C
- Relative humidity:
- Operating: 20% - 80%
- Non-operating: 10% - 90%
- Temperature:
-
Dimensions & Weight:
- Height x Width x Depth: 14.13" x 10.16 " x 1.18"
- 5.51lbs, 2.50kg base weight, varies with configuration.
Bonobo WS (bonw14)
The System76 Bonobo WS is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 10th Generation (Comet Lake) Desktop CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Super
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
- eDP display options:
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: LG LP173WFG-SPB1 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 3840x2160@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: AUO B173ZAN03.0 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 2 x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 2 x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 128GB (4x32GB) quad-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 2x 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in ports
- DC-in ports accept rectangular (not barrel) connectors
- Included AC adapters: 2x Chicony A18-280P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C13 (one per AC adapter)
- 97Wh 8-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 2x 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in ports
- Sound
- Internal speakers (stereo + subwoofer) & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 4x M.2
- 2x PCIe NVMe or SATA
- 1x PCIe only
- 1x SATA only
- SD card reader
- 4x M.2
- USB
- 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C with DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 4.343cm x 39.903cm x 31.902cm, 3.80kg
Bonobo WS (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Bonobo WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
LED indicators
The Bonobo WS has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Bonobo WS (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- LED bar is highlighted in purple
- Fan/heatsink module is highlighted in white
- Keyboard screwholes are highlighted in red
- Fan connectors are highlighted in pink
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in cyan
- RAM (slots 1 and 3) are highlighted in green
- CMOS battery is highlighted in yellow
- Battery slot is highlighted in orange
- Speakers are highlighted in olive
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
- Keyboard backlight connectors are highlighted in light green
- RAM (slots 2 and 4) are highlighted in cyan
- Wireless card is highlighted in orange
- 3.5mm audio jack connector is highlighted in maroon
- SD card slot connector is highlighted in yellow
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in pink
- Front LED connector is highlighted in navy
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in purple
- Keyboard & keyboard backlight board to motherboard connector is highlighted in olive
- BIOS flash chip (U16), not highlighted
Bonobo WS (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Bonobo WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Removing the battery
- Replacing the keyboard
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the CPU
- Replacing the GPU
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 8 bottom panel screws (highlighted red below.)
- Slide the bottom panel away from the battery slot while lifting it up and off of the case (the panel detaches at a slight angle.)
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. (Removing the bottom cover is optional, but can make removing the battery significantly easier.)
- Slide the locking battery slider (highlighted green below) to the "unlocked" position.
- Hold the spring-loaded battery slider (highlighted yellow above) in the "unlocked" position.
- Starting from the top, lift the battery up and out of the slot.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
- Remove the two keyboard screws (circled yellow below.)
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the Bonobo WS back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The largest ribbon cable (highlighted red below) is for the keyboard, while the two smaller ribbon cables (highlighted green) are for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide all three ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again.
- Replace the 2 keyboard screws, the battery, and the bottom panel.
- Boot the machine and confirm the keyboard and keyboard backlight are operational.
Replacing the RAM:
The Bonobo WS 14 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
- Two RAM slots are located on the bottom of the machine, while two are underneath the keyboard. If necessary, follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to four M.2 SSDs. All M.2 slots are size 2280.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
- If working with any of the PCIe NVMe-capable slots, unscrew the three screws (highlighted red below) and remove the black metal cover from above those three slots.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
In the above photo, the red slot is SATA only, the yellow slot is PCIe NVMe only, and the two orange slots work with SATA or PCIe NVMe.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Bonobo WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove the battery, and remove the keyboard.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted green above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
- Replace the keyboard, battery, and bottom cover.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)
- If you are replacing the CMOS battery, pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery, replace the main battery, and replace the bottom panel.
- Power up the Bonobo WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Bonobo WS 12 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans for the CPU and GPU.
If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
- Remove the three LED bar screws (highlighted green below).
- Raise the black latch on the ribbon cable connector (highlighted red above) to free the ribbon cable, then remove the ribbon cable; gently peel the cable away from any adhesive present.
- Remove the LED light bar.
- Remove the black metal M.2 cover. Removing the M.2 cover is optional, but makes it easier to free the fan wires later.
- Remove the eight fan screws (highlighted yellow below.)
- Remove the seven spring-loaded heatsink screws (highlighted cyan above) in reverse order, starting with #7, then #6, and continuing until you have removed #1. Keep the four GPU heatsink screws separated from the three CPU heatsink screws; they are different sizes.
- Unplug the white fan connectors from the black sockets on the motherboard (highlighted pink above.) Remove any clear tape holding the fan wires in place.
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the spring-loaded heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7. The three screws over the CPU are slightly thicker, while the four screws over the GPU are slightly thinner.
- Replace the eight fan screws.
- Plug the white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the CPU:
The Bonobo WS uses an LGA 1200 socket for the CPU. If you are upgrading or replacing your CPU, follow the steps below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the CPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove the battery, and remove the heatsink.
- Lift up the lever holding the CPU cover in place, highlighted red below.
- Flip over the CPU cover.
- Carefully lift the old CPU out of the socket. Caution: Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins in the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold plates on the bottom of the CPU.
- Carefully place the new CPU into the socket. One of the corners of the socket and CPU are marked with a triangle; be sure to match the triangles to the same corner so the CPU is placed in the correct orientation (highlighted yellow below.)
- Once the CPU is placed in the correct orientation, replace the CPU cover and lower the lever back down; lowering the lever may take some force.
- Replace the thermal paste, heatsink/fan(s), battery, and bottom panel.
Replacing the GPU:
The Bonobo WS uses an MXM III slot for the GPU. If you are upgrading or replacing your GPU, follow the steps below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the GPU:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove the battery, and remove the heatsink.
- Unplug the power cable, highlighted cyan below.
- Unscrew the two screws, highlighted red above.
- Raise the GPU to an angle and remove it from the slot.
- Place the new GPU (or reseat the existing GPU) into the slot at an angle, then hold it down and replace the screws and connector.
- Replace the thermal paste, heatsink/fan(s), battery, and bottom panel.
Darter Pro (darp7)
The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 11th Generation (Tiger Lake) CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC or non-open EC firmware
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel options:
- AUO B156HAN02.5
- BOE NV156FHM-N4H
- or other equivalent
- LCD panel options:
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-065N3A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
- 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-ion battery
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
- 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 1.99cm x 35.7cm x 22.05cm, 1.74kg
Darter Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged |
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
Keyboard shortcuts:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
Darter Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- RAM slots are highlighted in purple
- Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
- Fan/heatsink module is highlighted in navy
- Fan connector is highlighted in white
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
- Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in brown
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in light red
- Lid switch/sensor connector is highlighted in olive
- BIOS flash chip (U12) is highlighted in black
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
- Lid switch/sensor to motherboard connector is highlighted in cyan
Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
- Replacing the battery
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 16 bottom panel screws:
- 12 perimeter screws (thin), highlighted green below.
- 2 keyboard screws (thicker), highlighted yellow.
- 2 inner hinge screws (thickest), highlighted red.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Darter Pro 7 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- SSD-1 is closest to the battery (pictured on the left.)
- SSD-2 is closest to the outer edge of the machine (on the right.)
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- If a square brace was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)
- If you are replacing the CMOS battery, remove SSD-1 to expose the CMOS battery, then pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Darter Pro 7 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink are a single part (they should not be replaced separately from one another.)
If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Peel back the black tape holding the fan to the chassis, and remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Unplug the black fan connector.
- Remove the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.
- Remove the fan and heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery.
- The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
- A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
- If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, hold them down while inserting the plastic tool so they don't get pushed back under the battery.
- Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.
Darter Pro (darp6)
The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 10th Generation (Comet Lake-U) CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT8587E
- Programmed with System76 EC or non-open EC firmware
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel UHD Graphics 620
- eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: LG LP156WFC-SPD3 (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.2
- 1x DisplayPort 1.3 over USB-C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 2666 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth options:
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Intel Wireless-AC 9560
- Power
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A12-065N2A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 54.5Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe or SATA)
- SD card reader
- USB
- 2x USB 3.0 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
- Dimensions
- 1.98cm x 36.04cm x 24.46cm, 1.6kg
Darter Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Darter Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
LED indicators
The Darter Pro has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Airplane mode is on (WiFi/Bluetooth disabled) |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Darter Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- RAM slots are highlighted in dark green
- M.2 SSD is highlighted in purple
- Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
- CMOS battery is highlighted in white
- Fan/heatsink module is highlighted in navy
- Fan connector is highlighted in light red
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
- Main battery is highlighted in brown
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in maroon
- Speakers are highlighted in olive
- Touchpad connector is underneath the battery, highlighted in dashed red
- Touchpad button connector is highlighted in dashed green
- Front LED connector is highlighted in dashed yellow
- BIOS flash chip (U26) is highlighted in black
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in green
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
- Left-side USB connector is highlighted in yellow
- Bottom panel screws are highlighted in pink
Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Replacing the keyboard
- Removing the bottom cover
- Removing the battery
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below. Removing the keyboard is required for removing the bottom panel.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted red below).
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
Note: Unplugging the ribbon cables is not required to remove the bottom cover.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 bottom panel screws.
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
- Remove the three under-keyboard screws holding the bottom panel in place from above, highlighted cyan below.
- Lift the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the seven battery screws, highlighted red below.
- Unplug the battery connector (highlighted green above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Replacing the RAM:
The Darter Pro 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 2666MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, either SATA III or PCIe NVMe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- If a square brace was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted green above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)
- If you are replacing the CMOS battery, pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the bottom panel and keyboard.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Darter Pro 6 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink can be removed or replaced separately from one another.
If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the two fan screws, highlighted green below.
- Unplug the black fan connector, highlighted cyan above. Remove any clear tape that may be holding the wires in place.
- Remove the fan from the system.
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the three heatsink screws (highlighted red above) in order, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
- Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the three heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
Galago Pro (galp5)
The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 11th Generation (Tiger Lake-U) CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- Intel Iris Xe Graphics (Integrated graphics model)
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 (Switchable graphics model)
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 Ti (Switchable graphics model)
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 (Switchable graphics model)
- eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: BOE NV140FHM-N62 (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- Intel-only model:
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-065N3A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
- 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
- NVIDIA 1650/1650 Ti + Intel model:
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- NVIDIA 3050 + Intel model:
- 120W (19V, 6.15A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1121-26
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- USB-C charging compatible with 120W+ charger
- 120W (19V, 6.15A) DC-in port
- 49Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- Intel-only model:
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
- HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
- SD card reader
- USB
- 2x USB 3.2 (Gen 1) Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 32.49cm x 22.5cm x 1.75cm, 1.41kg
Galago Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F4 | Cycle keyboard backlight brightness |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
LED indicators
The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low |
Galago Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- RAM slots are highlighted in purple
- M.2 SSD is highlighted in maroon
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
- Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
- Fan connectors are highlighted in red
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- BIOS flash chip (U33) is highlighted in black
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in dark green
- Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
- EC chip is highlighted in cyan
- ITE IT5570E-128 2028-CXA A17GKB
Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Removing the battery
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 14 bottom panel screws.
- The two hinge corner screws (highlighted yellow below) are slightly thicker than the rest.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the five battery screws, highlighted red below.
- Unplug the battery connector (highlighted green above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Replacing the RAM:
The Galago Pro 5 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, PCIe NVMe Generation 4 (or Generation 3).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green above.)
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and main battery, and replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Galago Pro 5 has a single heatsink for the CPU and GPU (integrated or discrete). One fan is attached to the heatsink, while one additional fan is separate from the heatsink.
If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
- Unplug the white fan connector and remove the two fan screws, highlighted yellow below.
- Remove the eight heatsink screws (highlighted cyan above) in order, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #8.
- On the Intel-only model, only four heatsink screws are present.
- Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU/GPU chips.
- On the Intel-only model, only the CPU chip (on the left) is present.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the eight heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #8.
- On the Intel-only model, only four heatsink screws are present.
- Replace the two fan screws and plug in the white fan connector.
Steps to replace the additional fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
- Remove the two fan screws, highlighted red below.
- Unplug the white fan connector, highlighted green above.
- Remove the fan from the system.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws, highlighted cyan below.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted yellow above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine upright and flip the keyboard down onto the touchpad. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Galago Pro (galp4)
The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 10th Generation (Comet Lake-U) CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT8587E
- Programmed with System76 EC or non-open EC firmware
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel UHD Graphics 620
- eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Innolux N140HCA-EAC (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.2
- 1x DisplayPort over USB-C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 2666 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth options:
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Intel Wireless-AC 9560
- Power
- 40W (19V, 2.1A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 4mm (outer), 1.7mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A13-040A3A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 35.3Wh 3-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 40W (19V, 2.1A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- 3.5mm headphone jack
- 3.5mm microphone jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe or SATA) SSD
- 1x 2.5" 7mm SATA drive
- SD card reader
- USB
- 2x USB 3.1 (Gen 1) Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
- Dimensions
- 1.8cm x 33cm x 22.5cm, 1.3kg
Galago Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F4 | Cycle keyboard backlight brightness |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
Ins | Fn+Ins | Toggle numpad |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
LED indicators
The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Airplane mode is on (WiFi/Bluetooth disabled) |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Galago Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- RAM slots are highlighted in dark green
- M.2 SSD is highlighted in purple
- Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in solid pink
- CMOS battery is highlighted in dashed pink
- Fan/heatsink module is highlighted in navy
- Fan connector is highlighted in light red
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
- Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
- Main battery is highlighted in brown
- 2.5" drive is highlighted in white
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in maroon
- Speakers are highlighted in olive
- Touchpad connectors are highlighted in dashed red
- Front LED connector is highlighted in dashed yellow
- BIOS flash chip (U25) is highlighted in black
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in green
- Power button and left-side USB connector is highlighted in yellow
- Bottom panel screws are highlighted in red
Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Replacing the keyboard
- Removing the bottom cover
- Removing the battery
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing a 2.5" storage drive
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below. Removing the keyboard is required for removing the bottom panel.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws, highlighted red below.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted blue above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
Note: Unplugging the ribbon cables is not required to remove the bottom cover; the keyboard can be flipped over onto the touchpad without unplugging the ribbon cables.
- Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 bottom panel screws.
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
- Remove the three under-keyboard screws holding the bottom panel in place from above, highlighted yellow below.
- Lift the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the five battery screws, highlighted cyan below.
- Unplug the battery connector (highlighted green above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Replacing the RAM:
The Galago Pro 4 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 2666MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, either SATA III or PCIe NVMe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- If a square brace was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.
Replacing a 2.5" storage drive:
This model supports one 2.5" (7mm) SATA III SSD or HDD.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the 2.5" storage drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Lift the 2.5" drive out of the drive slot.
- Unplug the SATA connector (highlighted green above) from the 2.5" drive.
- Plug the SATA connector into the new 2.5" drive and set the drive into the drive slot. (The drive is secured by the bottom cover.)
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)
- If you are replacing the CMOS battery, pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the bottom panel and keyboard.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
The Galago Pro 4 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink can be removed or replaced separately from one another.
If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fan:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the two fan screws, highlighted green below.
- Unplug the black fan connector, highlighted cyan above. Remove any clear tape that may be holding the wires in place.
- Remove the fan from the system.
Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the three heatsink screws (highlighted red above) in order, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
- Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the three heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
Gazelle (gaze17)
The System76 Gazelle is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Alder Lake CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- Macronix MX25L25673G flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- Macronix MX25L25673G flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- Dedicated GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- TGP: 60W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Ti
- TGP: 60W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
- TGP: 60W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- Integrated GPU:
- Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- eDP display:
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: AUO B173HAN04.9 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Panda LM156LF-2F01 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video output:
- RTX 3060 model:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.2
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- RTX 3050 Ti and 3050 models:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.2
- RTX 3060 model:
- Dedicated GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- Realtek RTL8111H
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Gigabit Ethernet
- Power
- RTX 3060 model:
- 180W DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1181-76
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 180W DC-in port
- RTX 3050 Ti and 3050 models:
- 150W DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-150P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 150W DC-in port
- 54Wh 4-cell battery (model number NP50BAT-4-54)
- RTX 3060 model:
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
- USB-C DisplayPort, HDMI, Mini DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA)
- MicroSD card reader
- USB
- RTX 3060 model:
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Does not support DisplayPort over USB-C, USB-C charging (USB-PD), or Thunderbolt
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- RTX 3050 Ti and 3050 models:
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Does not support DisplayPort over USB-C, USB-C charging (USB-PD), or Thunderbolt
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- RTX 3060 model:
- Dimensions
- 15": 35.95cm x 23.8cm x 2.39cm, 2.05kg
- 17": 39.7cm x 26.213cm x 2.489cm, 2.5kg
Gazelle (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
RTX 3060 model:
RTX 3050 & 3050 Ti models:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Plastic |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Plastic |
LED indicators:
The Gazelle has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard shortcuts:
The Gazelle has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Gazelle (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in pink
- Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in green
- Wireless card is highlighted in blue
- RAM is highlighted in red
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in yellow
- Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple
- BIOS flash chip is highlighted in black
- Labeled U55 on 3060 model
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in cyan
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard adhesive strip is highlighted in green
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
Gazelle (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Gazelle can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.
- Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Gazelle 17 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Pull the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The inner-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4, and the outer-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Gazelle's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver Time estimate: 8 minutes Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.
- Unplug the battery connector (highlighted red above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the outermost M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery.
- Reconnect the main battery, replace the M.2 SSD, and replace the bottom cover.
- Power up the Gazelle. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
- Remove the silver heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #6.
- Remove the six silver screws holding the fans onto the chassis in order, highlighted green above.
- Note: Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the silver heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #6.
- Replace the silver fan screws.
- Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the keyboard:
The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the keyboard adhesive strip at the edge of the motherboard underneath the right fan's heatsink pipe, highlighted green below.
- Using a pair of tweezers, pull out the end of the adhesive strip.
- Alternatively, to remove the keyboard without tweezers, you can remove the heatsink so the adhesive strip is exposed.
- This method is not recommended unless you are also replacing the thermal paste.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (next to the RAM slot) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the bottom cover.
Gazelle (gaze16)
The System76 Gazelle is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Tiger Lake CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- TGP: 60W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Ti
- TGP: 60W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
- TGP: 60W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
- eDP display options:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: AUO B156HAN08.4 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: LG LP173WFG-SPB3 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video output:
- RTX 3050 and 3050 Ti models:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- RTX 3060 model:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.2
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- RTX 3050 and 3050 Ti models:
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- RTX 3050 and 3050 Ti models:
- 150W DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-150P2A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 150W DC-in port
- RTX 3060 model:
- 180W DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (innter)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-180P4A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 180W DC-in port
- 48.96Wh 4-cell battery (model number NH50BAT-4)
- RTX 3050 and 3050 Ti models:
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
- USB-C DisplayPort (3060 only), HDMI, Mini DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA)
- 2.5" 7mm SATA drive bay
- SD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C on RTX 3060 model only
- Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD) or Thunderbolt
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- Dimensions
- 15": 35.75cm x 23.8cm x 1.98cm, 1.99kg
- 17": 39.59cm x 26.495cm x 1.99cm, 2.3kg
Gazelle (External Overview)
15" models:
Left side:
Right side:
3050 & 3050 Ti:
3060:
Front side:
Back side:
3050 & 3050 Ti:
3060:
17" models:
Left side:
Right side:
3050 & 3050 Ti:
3060:
Front side:
Back side:
3050 & 3050 Ti:
3060:
Lid/chassis design differences:
Materials:
15" model:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Plastic |
17" model:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Plastic |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Plastic |
Bottom panel | Plastic |
LED indicators:
The Gazelle has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard shortcuts:
The Gazelle has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
Gazelle (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in pink
- Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in red
- Wireless card is highlighted in blue
- RAM is highlighted in dark green
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in yellow
- 2.5" storage drive is highlighted in purple
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in cyan
- BIOS flash chip is highlighted in black
- Labeled U51 on 3050/3050 Ti models
- Labeled U52 on 3060 model
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
Gazelle (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Gazelle can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.
- Removing the battery
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing a 2.5" storage drive
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the battery:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Slide the locking slider (highlighted cyan below) into the unlocked position.
- While holding the springing slider (highlighted red above) in the unlocked position, grasp the tab in the corner and lift the battery out of the machine.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
-
Follow the steps above to remove the battery.
-
Remove the bottom panel screws.
- On the 15" model:
- There are 16 screws total.
- The two back corner screws (highlighted red below) are slightly longer than the rest.
- The silver hinge screw (highlighted cyan below) is slightly shorter than the rest.
- On the 17" model:
- There are 17 screws total.
- The battery connector screw (highlighted cyan below) is the shortest.
- The other two under-battery screws (highlighted green below) may also be shorter than the rest.
- On the 15" model:
-
Pull the bottom panel off of the case, starting behind the battery slot.
Replacing the RAM:
The Gazelle 16 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The outer-most slot (farthest away from the fans) supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4, and the inner-most slot (closest to the fans) supports SATA or PCIe NVMe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Gazelle's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the main battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- If you are replacing the battery, remove any clear tape holding the battery in place and gently pull the battery up from where it's stuck to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery.
- Replace the M.2 SSD, replace the bottom cover, and replace the main battery.
- Power up the Gazelle. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing a 2.5" storage drive:
This model supports one 2.5" (7mm height) SATA III SSD or hard drive.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace a 2.5" storage drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the single screw holding the 2.5" drive bracket into the case.
- Slightly lift the loose end of the 2.5" drive and slide it out of the SATA port.
- Unscrew the two screws holding the 2.5" drive into the drive bracket (one on either side.)
- Insert the new 2.5" drive into the drive bracket and replace the two side screws.
- Plug the 2.5" drive into the SATA port and set the drive into the case.
- Screw the drive bracket back into the case.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
- Remove the silver heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #8.
- The order for the 15" model is shown below; the screws are numbered differently on the 17" model. Follow the order stamped into the heatsink metal.
- Remove the black screws holding the fans onto the chassis in order, starting with #9 and continuing through #14.
- Note: Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.
- If there is any clear tape securing the heatsink/fans or the fan wires, remove it.
- Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
- Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the silver heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #8.
- Replace the black fan screws, starting with #9 and continuing through #14.
- Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.
Replacing the keyboard:
Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 2 keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons.
- Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Gazelle (gaze15)
The System76 Gazelle is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Comet Lake CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Firmware (non-open)
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with non-open EC firmware
- Graphics
- GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 Ti
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti
- eDP display options:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@120Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Panda LM156LF2F (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@120Hz LCD
- LCD panel: AUO B173HAN04.7 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@120Hz LCD
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- (1660 Ti model only) 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB 3.1 Type-C
- GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB dual-channel DDR4 @ 2666 MHz, or
- Up to 32GB dual-channel DDR4 @ 2933 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wireless-AC 9560, or
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- GTX 1650 and 1650 Ti models:
- 120W DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-120P1A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 120W DC-in port
- GTX 1660 Ti model:
- 180W DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (innter)
- Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-180P4A
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 180W DC-in port
- 48.96Wh battery
- GTX 1650 and 1650 Ti models:
- Sound
- Internal speaker & microphone
- Combined headphone/microphone 3.5-mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- M.2 PCIe/SATA SSD-1
- M.2 PCIe SSD-2
- 2.5" 7mm SATA drive bay
- SD card reader
- USB
- GTX 1650 & 1650 Ti:
- 1 x USB 2.0
- 1 x USB 3.0
- 1 x USB 3.1
- 1 x USB 3.2 Type-C
- GTX 1660 Ti:
- 1 x USB 2.0
- 1 x USB 3.0
- 1 x USB 3.1
- 1 x USB 3.2 Type-C with DisplayPort 1.4
- GTX 1650 & 1650 Ti:
Gazelle (External Overview)
Left side overview:
1650 & 1650 Ti
1660 Ti
Right side overview:
1650 & 1650 Ti
1660 Ti
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
1650 & 1650 Ti
1660 Ti
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Gazelle has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Lock screen and toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
LED indicators
The Gazelle 15 has the following LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | DC power plugged in |
Green | Computer is on | |
Blinking green | Computer is sleeping | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Airplane mode is on (WiFi/Bluetooth disabled) |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Gazelle (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
The following components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs.
- Battery slot is highlighted in white
- Wireless card is highlighted in pink
- RAM slots are highlighted in green
- 2.5" 7mm drive bay is highlighted in navy
- M.2 PCIe NVMe/SATA SSD slot is highlighted in orange
- M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD slot is highlighted in cyan
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in yellow
- Fan connectors are highlighted in red
- BIOS flash chip (U46 for 15", U40 for 17") is highlighted in black
Gazelle (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Gazelle can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Individual component or connector locations may vary between the 15" and 17" models, but steps remain the same unless otherwise noted.
- Replacing the keyboard
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing a 2.5" storage drive
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the external battery
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
Replacing the keyboard:
Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 2 total - 2 x M2 (black)
Steps to replace the keyboard:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the two keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons (highlighted yellow below).
15" version:
17" version:
- Open the Gazelle and place it on its side.
- Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.
- Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
- Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
- Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
- Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
- Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
- Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
- Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
- Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
- Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 17 total - 12 x M2 (black); 2 x M2 keyboard (black); 3 x M2 under-battery (black)
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the external battery.
- Remove the bottom panel screws.
15": version: 10 unmarked screws, 2 keyboard screws, and 4 under-battery screws.
17" version: 12 unmarked screws, 2 keyboard screws, and 3 under-battery screws.
- Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges in the back (it's easiest to pull from just above the battery slot.)
Replacing the RAM:
RAM acts as temporary storage for your computer. More RAM generally provides better performance. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The top slot (shown with the yellow box in the image below) supports either SATA III or PCIe NVMe Generation 3, and the bottom slot (orange box) supports only PCIe NVMe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the M.2 drive (or slot.)
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing a 2.5" storage drive:
This model supports one 2.5" (7mm height) SATA III SSD or hard drive.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace a 2.5" storage drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the single screw holding the 2.5" drive bracket into the case.
- Slightly lift the loose end of the 2.5" drive and slide it out of the SATA port.
- Unscrew the two screws holding the 2.5" drive into the drive bracket (one on either side.)
- Insert the new 2.5" drive into the drive bracket and replace the two side screws.
- Plug the 2.5" drive into the SATA port and set the drive into the case.
- Screw the drive bracket back into the case.
Replacing the cooling system:
If one of the fans becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the CPU heatsink screws.
- Remove the screws, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #11.
- Carefully remove the heatsink/fans from the case.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.
- After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU core.
- Carefully replace the heatsink.
- Replace the screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #11. Do not fully tighten until all of the screws have been started, then fully tighten all screws.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the Gazelle's CMOS chip. Changes you make to the UEFI firmware settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your Gazelle doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the CMOS battery, which is connected to the motherboard via a red and black wire, between the 2.5" drive bay and the edge of the computer.
- Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, use a thin plastic tool to pry the battery up from where it's stuck to the case.
- Power up the Gazelle. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
- Press Enter at the CMOS/UEFI reset message prompts.
- If the system boots into the BIOS/UEFI setup utility, press F4 to load defaults, then F10 to save and resume normal boot.
Replacing the external battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the external battery:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Slide the locks that hold the battery to their unlocked positions. (One lock will click into place, while the other is on a spring.)
- Hold back the spring-loaded lock while removing the battery.
- Replace the battery/insert the new battery, then slide the clicking lock to its locked position.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Gazelle's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module.
- Gently remove the two antennas by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the wireless card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fitting and pressing onto the wireless card. The connector will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Launch (launch_1)
The System76 Launch is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:
- Chassis
- Open-source milled chassis design
- Magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bar
- Electronics
- Open-source PCB design
- Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
- N-key rollover
- Sockets and Switches
- Kailh MX hot swap sockets
- Default switch options:
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
- NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
- Kailh Box Silent Brown
- Kailh Box Silent Pink
- Keycaps
- PBT plastic
- Dye sublimated legend
- XDA profile
- Sizes:
- 3x 2U keycaps (both
Space
bars and leftShift
)- All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
- 8x 1.5U keycaps (
Tab
,Caps
, leftCtrl
, rightFn
, rightShift
,Enter
,Bksp
, andDel
) - 73x 1U keycaps
- 3x 2U keycaps (both
- Layout
- Modified ANSI US QWERTY
- Custom Configurations
- Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
- Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
- Integrated Hub
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
- 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- Firmware
- Included cables:
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
- 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
- Dimensions
- 30.9cm x 13.6cm x 3.3cm, 948g
Launch (External Overview)
Top overview:
Back overview:
Box contents overview:
Launch (Customization & Repairs)
The Launch Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.
- Connecting and using Launch
- Removing and installing keycaps
- Removing and installing switches
- Removing the PCB
Connecting and using Launch:
- Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch's center USB-C port, shown above.
- Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
- Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch.
Removing and installing keycaps:
Launch uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.
Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove a keycap:
- Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap to be removed.
- Pull slowly but firmly on the keycap until it slides off the switch's stem.
Notes about removing larger keycaps:
- The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch's keycap sizes.
- The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
- These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.
Steps to install a keycap:
- Position the keycap on the switch.
- Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch. The cap will friction-fit onto the switch stem.
- The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.
Removing and installing switches:
Since Launch uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.
If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and makes bending switch pins or damaging the PCB much less likely.
If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.
Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to remove a switch:
- Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
- Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.
- The hooks should squeeze the white tabs inwards and hook under the switch's clear plastic top housing.
- Slightly pinch the tongs together to help release the switch's locking clips from the cutout in the top case.
- Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
- The switch's locking tabs can sometimes bind on the edges of the top case. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
- Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.
Steps to install a switch:
- Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
- The pins must plug into the socket, and they'll miss their slots if they are bent.
- Orient the switch so the clear LED shine-through window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.
- Place the switch straight into the plate.
- Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket could damage the PCB.
- You should be able to feel whether the pins are plugging into the socket correctly.
- If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
- Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.
Removing the PCB:
Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.
Steps to remove the PCB:
- Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
- Turn the keyboard over and remove the eight bottom panel screws.
- Remove the bottom panel.
- Lifting the bottom panel out of the chassis may be easier with the magnetic lift bar installed.
- Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
Steps to install the PCB:
- Install all of the switches into the chassis.
- Installing switches with the PCB removed is much easier since you don't have to worry about aligning the pins individually.
- Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
- Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
- If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
- In the image below, the pin highlighted red is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.
- Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis.
- It may be easiest to insert the top edge first since the USB-C ports need to align with the port cutouts in the chassis.
- If all of the switch pins feel lined up, press the PCB down little by little until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
- The switch pins can be seen coming up through the sockets when they are fully seated (circled in green below).
- Install the bottom cover and its eight screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
Lemur Pro (lemp11)
The System76 Lemur Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 12th Generation (Alder Lake) CPUs
- BIOS
- MX25L25673G flash chip
- WSON-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- MX25L25673G flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- GOP driver is recommended, VBT is provided
- eDP display: 14.0" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Innolux N140HCE-EN2 (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- Memory
- Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR4
- 4x Samsung K4AAG165WA-BCWE (2GB each)
- Channel 1: 8-GB/16-GB/32-GB DDR4 SO-DIMM @ 3200 MHz
- Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR4
- Networking
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Power
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: AcBel ADA012
- AC power cord type: IEC C7 (non-polarized)
- USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
- 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Sound
- Realtek ALC256-CGT
- Internal speakers & microphone
- 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
- HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
- MicroSD card reader (RTS5227S)
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
- 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 1.65cm x 32.2cm x 21.68cm, 1.15kg
Lemur Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Speakers
The machine has two bottom-firing speakers near the front, angled outward.
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
Bottom panel | Magnesium-aluminum alloy |
LED indicators
There is an LED light next to the DC-in connector (charger port.) The color and pattern indicate:
- Solid green: Powered on and not suspended.
- Flashing green: Powered on and suspended.
- Solid yellow: Powered off and charging.
- Off: Powered off and not charging.
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Lemur Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F4 | Cycle keyboard backlight brightness |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
Lemur Pro (Internal Overview)
Components and connectors:
Components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs. Connectors can be reseated for troubleshooting purposes.
- RAM slot is highlighted in maroon
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in green
- Slot closest to back supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
- Slot closest to front supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
- Wireless card is highlighted in navy
- LCD cable connector is highlighted in yellow
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in orange
- Keyboard connector (main) is highlighted in olive
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in white
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in brown
- Battery connector is highlighted in light red
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in pink
- BIOS flash chip (U41) is highlighted in black
Lemur Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Lemur Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the speakers
- Replacing the main battery
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 12 total
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 screws from the bottom panel.
- Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges in the back.
Replacing the RAM:
The Lemur Pro 11 comes with 8GB of 3200 MHz RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which cannot be replaced. There is an additional RAM slot, which can support up to a 32GB stick for 40GB of RAM total. The additional stick is a standard DDR4 SO-DIMM running at 3200 MHz.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- SSD-1 is between the battery and the speaker.
- SSD-2 is next to the RAM slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it down.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your system's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It connects with a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless card (next to the CPU fan.) Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the primary SSD.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the battery, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are only clearing the CMOS and are not replacing the CMOS battery, removing the SSD and CMOS battery is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the small connector plugging the fan into the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
- This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.
- Remove the two fan screws (highlighted cyan above) and any clear tape holding the fan in place.
- Remove the heatsink screws in reverse order, starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.
- Remove the heatsink/fan from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU.
- Carefully replace the fan and heatsink.
- Replace the heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
- Replace the fan screws and plug the fan back in.
- When plugging the fan in, the black wire goes on the left (closest to the side of the machine.)
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the speakers:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
- This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull the tops of the purple rubber circles over the black tabs holding them in place.
- Lift the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.
- Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
Replacing the main battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the main battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery.
- The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
- A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
- If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
- Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
- Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.
- Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.
Lemur Pro (lemp10)
The System76 Lemur Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel 11th Generation (Tiger Lake-U) CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- GOP driver is recommended, VBT is provided
- eDP display: 14.0" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Innolux N140HCE-EN2 (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 2.0b
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
- Memory
- Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR4
- 4x Samsung K4AAG165WA-BCWE (2GB each)
- Channel 1: 8-GB/16-GB/32-GB DDR4 SO-DIMM @ 3200 MHz
- Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR4
- Networking
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Power
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: AcBel ADA012
- AC power cord type: IEC C7 (non-polarized)
- USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
- 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
- TI BQ24780S Battery Charger
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Sound
- Realtek ALC293D
- Internal speakers & microphone
- 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
- HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD-1
- M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA) SSD-2
- MicroSD card reader (RTS5227S)
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- 1x USB 3.1 (3.1 Gen 2) Type-A
- 1x USB 3.0 (3.2 Gen 1) Type-A
- Webcam
- 1280x720 CCD camera
Lemur Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Speakers
The machine has two bottom-firing speakers near the front, angled outward.
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Lemur Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F4 | Cycle keyboard backlight brightness |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
1 | Fn+1 | Toggle fan between max/automatic |
LED indicators
There is an LED light next to the DC-in connector (charger port.) The color and pattern indicate:
- Solid green: Powered on and not suspended.
- Flashing green: Powered on and suspended.
- Solid yellow: Powered off and charging.
- Off: Powered off and not charging.
Lemur Pro (Internal Overview)
Components and connectors:
Components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs. Connectors can be reseated for troubleshooting purposes.
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in red
- RAM is highlighted in cyan
- Wireless card is highlighted in green
- LCD cable connector is highlighted in yellow
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in maroon
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in orange
- Keyboard connector (main) is highlighted in olive
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in white
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in brown
- CPU fan/heatsink is highlighted in grey
- Battery is highlighted in dashed navy
- Battery connector is highlighted in solid navy
- Speakers are highlighted in purple
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in pink
- BIOS flash chip (U33) is highlighted in black
Lemur Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Lemur Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the speakers
- Replacing the main battery
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 12 total
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 screws from the bottom panel.
- Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges and working towards the front.
Replacing the RAM:
The Lemur Pro 10 comes with 8GB of RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which cannot be replaced. There is an additional RAM slot, which can support up to a 32GB stick for 40GB of RAM total. The additional stick is a standard DDR4 SO-DIMM running at 3200 MHz.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4, and SSD-2 supports SATA III or PCIe NVMe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the M.2 drives (or slots.) The SSD-1 slot is above the battery (highlighted yellow here), while the SSD-2 slot is next to the battery (highlighted green).
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it down.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the small connector plugging the fan into the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
- Remove the two fan screws (highlighted red above) and any clear tape holding the fan in place.
- Remove the heatsink screws in reverse order, starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.
- Remove the heatsink/fan from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU.
- Carefully replace the fan and heat sink.
- Replace the heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
- Replace the fan screws and plug the fan back in.
- When plugging the fan in, the black wire goes on the left (closest to the side of the machine.)
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the primary SSD.
- Remove any clear tape that is securing the battery, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
- If you are only clearing the CMOS and are not replacing the CMOS battery, removing the SSD and CMOS battery is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
- Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery and main battery, and replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
- Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your system's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It connects with a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless card (next to the CPU fan.) Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fitting and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the speakers:
The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the speakers:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
- This can also be done after freeing the speaker.
- Pull the tops of the purple rubber circles over the black tabs holding them in place.
- Lift the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.
- Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
Replacing the main battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. The product that you have purchased contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the main battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery.
- The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
- A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
- If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, hold them down while inserting the plastic tool so they don't get pushed back under the battery.
- Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.
Lemur Pro (lemp9)
The System76 Lemur Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Comet Lake-U CPUs
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Backlit Keyboard, with standard PS/2 keycodes and SCI hotkeys
- Battery control
- Charger control, using AC adapter or USB-C PD
- Suspend/resume
- Touchpad interface
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel UHD Graphics 620
- GOP driver is recommended, VBT is provided
- eDP display: 14.0" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
- LCD panel: Innolux N140HCA-EAC (or equivalent)
- External video outputs:
- 1x HDMI 1.4a
- 1x DisplayPort 1.2 over USB-C
- GPU: Intel UHD Graphics 620
- Memory
- Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR4 Samsung K4AAG165WA-BCTD
- Channel 1: 8-GB/16-GB/32-GB DDR4 SO-DIMM
- Networking
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth options:
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Intel Wireless-AC 9560
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth options:
- Power
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: AcBel ADA012
- AC power cord type: IEC C7 (non-polarized)
- USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
- 73Wh battery
- TI BQ24780S Battery Charger
- 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
- Sound
- Realtek ALC293D
- Internal speaker
- Internal microphone
- Combined headphone/microphone 3.5-mm jack
- HDMI audio
- USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- M.2 PCIe/SATA SSD-1
- M.2 PCIe/SATA SSD-2
- RTS5227S MicroSD card reader
- USB
- 1280x720 CCD camera
- USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C (left)
- USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-A (left)
- USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-A (right)
Lemur Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Keyboard & touchpad overview:
Speakers
The grilles for the built-in speakers are located on the bottom of the machine, angled outward.
Keyboard Shortcuts
The Lemur Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F4 | Keyboard backlight toggle/brightness |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
LED indicators
There is an LED light next to the DC-in connector (charger port.) The color and pattern indicate:
- Solid green: Powered on and not suspended.
- Flashing green: Powered on and suspended.
- Solid yellow: Powered off and charging.
- Off: Powered off and not charging.
External Displays
This model supports HDMI and DisplayPort over USB-C connections for external displays.
Lemur Pro (Internal Overview)
User-replaceable components:
The following components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs.
- CPU fan/heatsink is highlighted in cyan
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in yellow
- RAM is highlighted in pink
- Wireless card is highlighted in green
- Battery is highlighted in orange
Other connectors:
These components are not considered user-serviceable, but may be replaced by our hardware team or a local repair shop. The connectors may be reseated for troubleshooting purposes.
- LCD cable connector is highlighted in yellow
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in red
- Keyboard connector (main) is highlighted in green
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in pink
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in cyan
- Speakers are highlighted in brown
- BIOS flash chip (U29) is highlighted in black
Lemur Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Lemur Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the main battery
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 12 total
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 screws from the bottom panel.
- Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges and working towards the front.
Replacing the RAM:
The Lemur Pro 9 comes with 8GB of RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which cannot be replaced. There is an additional RAM slot, which can support up to a 32GB stick for 40GB of RAM total. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280, and both slots support SATA III or PCIe NVMe Generation 3.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the M.2 drives (or slots.) The primary slot is next to the battery (highlighted yellow here), while the secondary slot is above the battery (highlighted red).
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it down.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the CPU heatsink screws (highlighted yellow here) as well as the fan connector and screws (highlighted in red).
- Disconnect the small connector plugging the fan into the motherboard.
- Remove the heatsink screws in reverse order, starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.
- Remove the screws holding the fan onto the case.
- Carefully remove the heatsink/fans from the case.
- Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.
- After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU.
- Carefully replace the fan and heat sink.
- Replace the heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3. Also replace the fan screws. Do not fully tighten until all screws are in place.
- Plug the fan back in.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs replacing.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Follow the steps above to remove the primary SSD; the CMOS battery is located underneath this SSD.
- Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, use a thin plastic tool to pry the battery up from where it's stuck to the case.
- Disconnect the main internal battery, then hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery as well as the main internal battery.
- Power up the Lemur Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the wireless card
Your system's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It connects with a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless card (next to the CPU fan.) Remove any tape if present.
- Gently remove the two antennas by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the wireless card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fitting and pressing onto the wireless card. The connector will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the main battery
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. The product that you have purchased contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the main battery
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery.
- The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
- A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
- If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, hold them down while inserting the plastic tool so they don't get pushed back under the battery.
- Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.
Meerkat (meer5)
The System76 Meerkat is a desktop with the following specifications:
- CPU options
- Graphics
- GPU: Intel UHD Graphics
- Video output:
- 1x HDMI 2.0b
- 1x DisplayPort 1.2 over USB-C
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) Dual Channel DDR4 SODIMMs @ 2666 MHz
- Networking
- Power
- i3 and i5 models:
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter*: APD DA-90J19
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
- i7 model:
- 120W (19V, 6.32A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter*: FSP FSP120-ABBN3
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 120W (19V, 6.32A) DC-in port
- * Included AC adapter may be a different model with the same specifications.
- i3 and i5 models:
- Sound
- 3.5mm line out/line in combo jack for headsets
- Newer meer5's do not have this port
- 7.1 digital out over HDMI and mDP
- Integrated front microphone
- 3.5mm line out/line in combo jack for headsets
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe or SATA)
- 1x 2.5" SATA (for Tall meer5 only)
- SD card reader
- USB
- 1x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C
- 1x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
- 3x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-A
- Dimensions
- Short: 117 x 112 x 38mm
- Tall: 117 x 112 x 51mm
Meerkat (External Overview)
Short meer5:
Front side overview:
Note: newer meer5's may not have the 2-in-1 audio jack
Back side overview:
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Tall meer5:
Front side overview:
Note: newer meer5's may not have the 2-in-1 audio jack
Back side overview:
Left side overview:
Meerkat (Internal Overview)
Component overview:
- RAM slots are highlighted in bright green
- M.2 SSD is highlighted in blue
- 2.5" drive bay (only present on Tall meer5) is highlighted in orange
- Front microphone connector is highlighted in pink
Meerkat (Parts & Repairs)
Several components in your Meerkat can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:
- Removing the bottom panel
- Replacing the M.2 drive
- Replacing the RAM
- Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive
- Resetting CMOS
- Removing the motherboard
- Removing the fan
- Replacing thermal paste
- Mounting with VESA mount
Removing the bottom panel:
The bottom panel can be removed to access the internal components.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 3 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom panel:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Completely loosen the four screws in the corners.
-
The screws are held captive in the bottom panel, so they will not come completely out of the machine, but once they are fully loose, you will be able to grab the screws and gently lift the bottom panel out of the machine.
If your Meerkat is the Tall variation, use caution when lifting the bottom panel off, as there is a thin cable that attaches to the drive bay in the bottom panel. The cable should be long enough that you can set the bottom panel next to the machine without having to disconnect it at the motherboard, as shown below:
If your Meerkat is the Short variation, you will have no such cable, allowing you to completely remove the bottom panel after the four screws are completely loosened.
Replacing the M.2 drive:
Your Meerkat has one M.2 slot, which supports either PCIe NVMe Gen 3 x4 or SATA III. The following M.2 sizes are supported: 2280 and 2242.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
- Unscrew the retainer screw on the end of the SSD opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
- Replace the bottom panel.
Replacing the RAM:
Your Meerkat supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR4 SODIMMs running at a speed of 2666MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are re-seating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
- Since the RAM slots are stacked on your Meerkat, if you have two RAM sticks installed, the top one must be removed before you can access the one below it. To remove a RAM stick, both RAM latches need to be simultaneously pushed out and away from the edges of the RAM stick.
- Once both latches are released, the RAM stick will pop up, pushed by the spring tension from the RAM slot. This means the RAM stick can be pulled backwards out of the slot.
-
To install a RAM stick, slide the stick into the slot at roughly the same angle it was sitting after the latches were released, then push the back edge of the RAM stick downwards so the latches on the sides re-engage.
-
Replace the bottom panel.
Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive:
If your Meerkat is the tall variety, it has a 2.5" drive bay built into the bottom panel.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
- Take note of the orientation of the connector on the drive you are installing.
- Slide the drive into the slot on the bottom panel until it plugs all the way into its connector.
- Replace the bottom panel.
Resetting CMOS:
Sometimes resetting CMOS can help if your Meerkat is not booting. A CMOS reset will restore BIOS settings to their factory defaults, so you may have to reconfigure your BIOS afterwards.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver and (optionally) tweezers
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to reset CMOS:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
- Disconnect the CMOS battery connector, shown circled in red below. Tweezers may make this easier, but try to pull it by the plug itself rather than by the wires.
- Leave the connector unplugged for several minutes. CMOS values don't always clear instantly, and sometimes it takes a couple minutes for them to reset.
- Reconnect the CMOS battery.
- Replace the M.2 drive and the bottom panel.
- When you boot your Meerkat after resetting CMOS, it may take a minute or two longer than usual to boot the first time. It has to re-initialize some of the CMOS values that were reset.
Removing the Motherboard:
Removing the motherboard is necessary for removing the cooling fan, cleaning the CPU heatsink, and replacing the CPU thermal paste.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the motherboard:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the M.2 drive, and remove the RAM.
- If your Meerkat is the tall variety, disconnect the ribbon cable that leads to the 2.5" drive bay built into the bottom panel. The small white latch comes up to unlock the cable, then the cable can be gently pulled free from its socket.
- Disconnect the front microphone cable.
- Disconnect the two wireless antenna cables.
- Remove the two motherboard mounting screws.
- Carefully lift the motherboard out of the case. It is easiest to lift from the back side, grabbing the USB type A ports as shown below. The back wall of the case can be pulled slightly outwards, away from the motherboard, to help the ports come out of their cutouts in the case.
Removing the Fan:
The cooling fan can be removed to clean dust out of the cooling system or to access the CPU heatsink to replace the CPU thermal paste.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to remove the fan:
-
Follow the steps above to remove the motherboard.
-
Completely loosen the three mounting screws (highlighted in red) and disconnect the fan cable (highlighted in green). The screws are captive, so they will not come out of the fan assembly when they are completely loosened.
- The fan can now be lifted away from the motherboard.
Replacing Thermal Paste:
The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fan expels it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 35 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the thermal paste:
-
Follow the steps above to remove the fan.
-
Completely loosen the four screws that hold the heatsink onto the motherboard (highlighted in red). The screws are captive, so they will not come out of the heatsink brackets when completely loosened.
- Gently lift the heatsink off of the motherboard.
- Using a paper towel, clean the old thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
- Apply new thermal paste to both silicon dies on the CPU. Be careful not to use too much, as just a little goes a long way.
- Reinstall the heatsink and tighten the four screws in the order indicated by the numbers stamped on the heatsink (highlighted in red).
- Reinstall the cooling fan (remember to plug it in!), motherboard, RAM, drive, and bottom panel.
Mounting with VESA Mount:
Your Meerkat comes with a VESA mount adapter, which allows it to be mounted on the back of a monitor. Because it mounts to the monitor's VESA mount, this will only work on monitors which aren't already mounted via the VESA mount.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to mount with the VESA adapter:
- Thread the two shoulder screws into the two screw holes in the bottom of the Meerkat.
- Mount the VESA adapter plate to the VESA mount on your monitor with the remaining four screws. The "UP" arrow indicates the orientation it should be mounted in.
- Align the two shoulder screw studs to the cutouts in the VESA adapter. Once the studs are lined up, slide the Meerkat downwards and rotate it slightly clockwise to lock it into place.
Oryx Pro (oryp8)
The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:
- CPU
- Supports Intel Tiger Lake CPUs
- Chipset
- BIOS
- GD25B127D flash chip
- SOIC-8 form factor
- Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
- GD25B127D flash chip
- EC
- ITE IT5570E
- Programmed with System76 EC
- Graphics
- Dedicated GPU options:
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 (Max-Q)
- TGP: 80W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 (Max-Q)
- TGP: 80W
- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 (Max-Q)
- Integrated GPU:
- Intel UHD Graphics
- eDP display options:
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: LG LP156WFG-SPB3 (or equivalent)
- 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- LCD panel: LG LP173WFG-SPB3 (or equivalent)
- 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
- External video output:
- 1x HDMI 2.1
- 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
- 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
- Dedicated GPU options:
- Memory
- Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
- Networking
- Gigabit Ethernet
- M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
- Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
- Power
- 180W (19.5V, 9.23A) DC-in port
- Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
- Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1181-16
- AC power cord type: IEC C5
- 73Wh 3-cell battery
- 180W (19.5V, 9.23A) DC-in port
- Sound
- Internal speakers & microphone
- Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
- Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
- HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
- Storage
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
- 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
- USB
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
- Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
- 3x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
- 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
- Dimensions
- 15": 35.75cm x 23.8cm x 1.98cm, 1.99kg
- 17": 39.59cm x 26.495cm x 1.99cm, 2.3kg
Oryx Pro (External Overview)
Left side overview:
Right side overview:
Front side overview:
Back side overview:
Materials:
Part | Material |
---|---|
LCD back cover (lid) | Aluminum |
LCD front cover (bezel) | Plastic |
Top case (palm rests/port covers) | Aluminum |
Bottom panel | Aluminum |
LED indicators:
Icon | Color | Description |
---|---|---|
![]() | Orange | Powered off, DC power plugged in |
Green | Powered on | |
Blinking green | Sleeping (suspended) | |
![]() | Orange | Battery charging |
Green | Battery fully charged | |
Blinking orange | Battery critically low | |
![]() | Green | Storage drive activity |
Keyboard shortcuts:
Key | Shortcut | Action |
---|---|---|
![]() | Fn+F1 | Toggle trackpad |
![]() | Fn+F2 | Toggle built-in LCD |
![]() | Fn+F3 | Mute |
![]() | Fn+F5 | Volume down |
![]() | Fn+F6 | Volume up |
![]() | Fn+F7 | Toggle displays |
![]() | Fn+F8 | Screen brightness down |
![]() | Fn+F9 | Screen brightness up |
![]() | Fn+F10 | Toggle webcam |
![]() | Fn+F11 | Toggle airplane mode |
![]() | Fn+F12 | Suspend |
![]() | Fn+` | Play/Pause |
![]() | Fn+* | Toggle keyboard backlight |
/ | Fn+/ | Cycle keyboard color |
- | Fn+- | Decrease keyboard brightness |
+ | Fn++ | Increase keyboard brightness |
Oryx Pro (Internal Overview)
Bottom components and connectors:
- Fan connectors are highlighted in blue
- Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
- Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
- Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
- Wireless card is highlighted in purple
- Battery connector is highlighted in red
- RAM is highlighted in dark green
- BIOS flash chip (U74) is highlighted in black
- CMOS battery connector is highlighted in cyan
- M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
- LCD panel connector is highlighted in orange
- Keyboard adhesive strip is highlighted in pink
Under-keyboard components and connectors:
- Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
- Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
- Keyboard adhesive strip is highlighted in pink
- Power button/LED connector is highlighted in green
- Front LED connector is highlighted in red
Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)
Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.
- Removing the bottom cover
- Replacing the RAM
- Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
- Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
- Replacing the battery
- Replacing the CMOS battery
- Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
- Replacing the keyboard
Removing the bottom cover:
Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to remove the bottom cover:
- Place the machine lid-side down.
- Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
- Remove the 12 bottom panel screws.
- On the 15" model, the two back corner screws are longer than the rest (highlighted red below.)
- On the 17" model, all screws are the same length.
- Lift the bottom panel off of the case.
Replacing the RAM:
The Oryx Pro 8 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the RAM:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.
- Remove the RAM from the slot.
- Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.
Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:
This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The inner-most slot (closest to the battery) supports only PCIe NVMe Generation 4, and the outer-most slot (farthest away from the battery) supports either PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the M.2 drive:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
- Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
- Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
- Replace the retainer screw.
Replacing the wireless card:
Your Oryx Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
- Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
- Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
- The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
- Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
- Replace the retaining screw.
- Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
Replacing the battery:
The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Steps to replace the battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- If there is an M.2 SSD in the slot closest to the battery, follow the steps above to remove the M.2 SSD.
- The battery is held in by three of the bottom panel screws and two additional screws, one of which is underneath the M.2 SSD. Remove the two final screws, highlighted red below.
- Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
- Remove the battery, starting with the plastic tabs next to the screw holes.
- When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.
Replacing the CMOS battery:
The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●
Steps to replace the CMOS battery:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- If necessary, remove any components that are covering the CMOS battery:
- For the 15" model, remove the M.2 SSD closest to the main battery and remove the main battery.
- For the 17" model, remove both M.2 SSDs.
- Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
- To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
- Re-connect the CMOS battery, replace the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
- Replace the bottom panel and power up the Oryx Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.
Replacing the cooling system:
If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.
Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.
Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●
Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:
- Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
- Locate the CPU heatsink screws.
- Remove the silver screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #6.
- The order for the 15" model is shown below; the screws are numbered differently on the 17" model. Follow the order stamped into the heatsink metal.