Introduction

System76 provides laptops, desktops, servers, and accessories. This book contains technical documentation for System76 hardware. The source can be viewed on GitHub.

Current Models

Previous Models

Adder WS (addw4)

Adder WS

The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050
    • eDP display:
      • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: Innolux N156HMA-GA1 (or equivalent)
          • Brightness: 250 nits (cd/m²)
          • sRGB color coverage: 100%
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
        • Bluetooth 5.3
  • Power
    • 230W (20V, 11.5A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1231-26
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • 53.35Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: V150BAT-4-53
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 3x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSDs
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 (Type-C)
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 (Type-C)
      • Does not support DisplayPort over USB-C
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 (Type-A)
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 (Type-A)
  • Dimensions
    • 2.49cm x 36.09cm x 24.69cm, 2.3kg

Adder WS (External Overview)

Left side:

Left Ports

Right side:

Right Ports

Front side:

Front Ports

Back side:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Lid:

Lid

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Aluminum6-39-V3501-022
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic6-39-V3501-012
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic6-39-V3552-S12
Bottom panelPlastic6-39-V3503-012

LED indicators

The Adder WS has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Mute/unmute microphone
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute/unmute speakers
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
Fn-/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
Fn--Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
Fn-+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Adder WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components and Connectors

  • LCD panel connector (under the heatsink) is highlighted in light green
  • Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
  • RAM slots are highlighted in navy
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in red
    • Left fan connector (on the right) is below SSD slot #3
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
    • Right speaker connector (on the left) is below SSD slot #2
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Wireless card is highlighted in purple
    • Wireless card is below SSD slot #1
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
    • All slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
    • CMOS battery is under the main battery
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
  • BIOS flash chip (U57) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard adhesive strip access point is highlighted in cyan
  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red

Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Part numbers:

  • The bottom panel's part number is 6-39-V3503-012.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 12 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Adder WS 4 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM removal

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to three M.2 SSDs. All M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Part numbers:

  • The battery's model number is V150BAT-4-53, and the original part number is 6-87-V150S-51C01.
    • Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number.
    • You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the five battery screws near the corners of the battery.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
  2. Remove and replace the battery.
  3. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Part numbers:

  • The CMOS battery is a standard 3V 3Y3 CR2032W battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
    • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the main battery is optional.

CMOS battery

  1. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Reconnect the CMOS battery and reinstall the main battery.
  4. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Adder WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Part number:

  • The standard wireless card is an Intel AX211NGW.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the SSD from slot 1 (the innermost slot), if installed.
  2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Adder WS 4 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Part numbers:

  • The fan/heatsink assembly's manufacturer and part number is Yingfan 6-31-V350N-201.
  • The left fan (with stamped numbers 1/2/3) is a WINMA EGC-85071S1-0AH.
  • The right fan (with stamped numbers 4/5/6) is a WINMA ECG-79731S1-0AH.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the SSD from slot 3 (if installed).
  2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
  3. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
    • The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
    • Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the two black fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted green above).
  2. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
  3. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Warning: The keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is possible that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Part numbers:

  • The keyboard's part number is 6-V355SNC-KB-MCL-US.
    • Keyboards shipped by System76 include a custom-printed Super key.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Hard

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
    • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
    • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
      • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
    • Pull the adhesive strip slowly to avoid breaking it. Grasp farther down the strip as it comes out of the machine (don't pull the end far away from the machine.)
    • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

Keyboard adhesive access point & push point

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbon connectors

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
  7. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  8. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  9. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
  10. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Part numbers:

  • The left speaker's model number is V350-L-BASS, and its part number is 6-23-5V350-0L0.
  • The right speaker's model number is V350-R-BASS, and its part number is 6-23-5V350-0R0.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the speakers:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the silver screws holding the speaker in place.
    • The right speaker is secured by three screws; the left speaker is secured by two screws.
    • The screws are surrounded by rubber stabilizer rings, which may hold the screws in place after they're fully unscrewed.

Left speaker wire and posts

  1. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
  2. Connect the new speaker to the motherboard and screw it into the chassis.
  3. Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Bonobo WS (bonw15)

Bonobo WS

The System76 Bonobo WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • Chipset
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090
        • TGP: 150W (175W boost)
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080
        • TGP: 150W (175W boost)
    • eDP display options:
      • 17.3" 3840x2160@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: BOE NE173QUM-NY1 (or equivalent)
      • 17.3" 2560x1440@240Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: BOE NE173QHM-NZ1 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • 2x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
  • Networking
    • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
        • Bluetooth 5.1
  • Power
    • 330W (19.5V, 16.42A) DC-in ports
      • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A20-330P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13
    • 99Wh 8-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: X270BAT-8-99
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 3x M.2 PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • USB
    • 2x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 2.49cm x 39.6cm x 27.8cm, 3.29kg

Bonobo WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Aluminum6-39-X3701-022
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic6-40-X3701-010
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Aluminum6-78-X370SNWG2-010
Bottom panelAluminum6-39-X3703-011
Back stripPlastic6-42-X3703-101

LED indicators

The Bonobo WS has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Bonobo WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
Fn-/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
Fn--Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
Fn-+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Bonobo WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
  • Wireless card is highlighted in navy
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
    • All slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
    • Left speaker connector (on the right) is under SSD slot 3
  • BIOS flash chip (U58) is highlighted in black
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in red
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • RAM is highlighted in maroon

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Keyboard backlight connectors are highlighted in green
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
  • Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in cyan

Bonobo WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Bonobo WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives or Kensington locks) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Slide the back strip off the back of the machine.

Bottom panel back strip

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the back.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Bonobo WS 15's battery is X270BAT-8-99, and the original part number is 6-87-X270S-92B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the four screws along the top of the battery.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
  2. Remove the battery, starting from the top edge with screw holes.
  3. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the bottom edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
  4. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the RAM:

The Bonobo WS 15 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM removal

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to three M.2 SSDs. All M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Bonobo WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Hold the card down and replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the comptuer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
    • If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.

CMOS battery

  1. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  2. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery.
  3. Replace the SSDs and wireless card (if necessary) and the bottom panel.
  4. Power up the Bonobo WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Bonobo WS 13 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
  2. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
    • Screws #1-#12 are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. Screw #13 is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
    • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

Thermal screws

  1. Remove any clear tape covering the fan wires.
  2. Unplug the black fan connectors from the motherboard.
  3. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  4. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
  3. Plug the black fan connectors back into the motherboard and (optionally) replace the clear tape.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the left speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
  2. Remove the two screws holding the audio daugherboard onto the chassis, then flip the audio daughterboard over towards the motherboard.

Audio daughterboard

  1. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Left speaker wire and screws

  1. Unscrew the two speaker screws, free the speaker wire from the channels in the chassis, and remove the speaker.
  2. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
  3. Replace the audio daughterboard and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Right speaker wire and screws

  1. Unscrew the two speaker screws and remove the speaker.
  2. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard.
  3. Replace the bottom cover.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard includes per-key RGB LED backlighting, and can be replaced using the instructions below.

Warning: Removing the keyboard may cause permanent aesthetic damage to the underside of the keyboard, particularly if the adhesive strip is not fully removed first. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver; tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
    • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
    • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
      • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
    • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

Keyboard adhesive & push point

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The largest ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cables are for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
  7. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  8. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  9. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
  10. Replace the bottom cover.

Darter Pro (darp9)

Darter Pro

The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • Innolux N156HCA-E5B
        • BOE NV156FHM-N4M
        • BOE NV156FHM-N4V
        • BOE NV156FHM-N63
        • or other equivalent
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4a over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
        • Bluetooth 5.3
  • Power
    • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
    • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-ion battery
      • Model number: L140BAT-4
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 1.99cm x 35.7cm x 22.05cm, 1.74kg

Darter Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Magnesium-aluminum alloy6-39-NS501-022
or 6-39-NS511-020
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic6-39-NS501-012
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic6-78-NS50PU02-010
Bottom panelMagnesium-aluminum alloy6-39-NS503-014

LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged

Keyboard shortcuts:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Mic mute
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
Fn-/Fn+/Cycle keyboard brightness levels
Fn--Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
Fn-+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Darter Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in purple
  • Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
  • Fan connector is highlighted in red
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
    • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in brown
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Lid switch/sensor connector is highlighted in olive
  • BIOS flash chip (U22) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Lid switch/sensor to motherboard connector is highlighted in cyan

Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws:
    • 12 perimeter screws (thin), highlighted green below.
    • 2 keyboard screws (thick), highlighted yellow.
    • 2 inner hinge screws (thick), highlighted red.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Darter Pro 9 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
    • SSD-1 is closest to the battery (pictured on the left.)
    • SSD-2 is closest to the outer edge of the machine (on the right.)

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. If a square thermal pad was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

CMOS battery

  1. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, remove SSD-1 to expose the CMOS battery, then pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Darter Pro 9 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink are a single part (they should not be replaced separately from one another.)

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Peel back the black tape holding the fan to the chassis, and remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
  3. Unplug the black fan connector.
    • This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.
  4. Remove the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Thermal screws

  1. Remove the fan and heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  2. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the speakers:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Disconnect the speakers from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speakers.
    • The right speaker connector has a white receptacle, while the left speaker connector has a black receptacle.

Speaker wires and posts

  1. Pull the speakers up and off of the plastic posts.
    • When lifting the left speaker, free the wire from the channel in the chassis.
  2. Slide the new speakers onto the plastic posts and connect them to the motherboard.
    • The left speaker's wire can be run through the channel in the chassis before or after plugging it in.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery; it is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery.

This product's battery is potentially recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points.

The model number for the Darter Pro 9's battery is L140BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-L140S-72B02. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.

Main battery

  1. Remove the battery.
    • The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
    • A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
    • If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
      • Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
      • Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.
  2. Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.

Galago Pro (galp7)

Galago Pro

The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: Sharp LQ140M1JW49 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
        • Bluetooth 5.3
  • Power
    • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
    • 53Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: NV40BAT-4-53
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
    • 2x USB 3.2 (Gen 1) Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 32.49cm x 22.5cm x 1.82cm, 1.45kg

Galago Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Aluminum6-39-NV411-023
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic6-40-NV401-011
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic6-78-NV41RZ02-010
Bottom panelPlastic6-39-NV4K3-011

LED indicators

The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F4Fn+F4Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-accentFn+`Play/Pause
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Galago Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in purple
  • M.2 SSD is highlighted in maroon
  • Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • BIOS flash chip (U43) is highlighted in black
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in red
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in dark green
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
  • EC chip is highlighted in cyan
    • ITE IT5570E-128

Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 14 bottom panel screws.
    • The two hinge corner screws (highlighted red below) are slightly thicker than the rest.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Galago Pro 7's battery is NV40BAT-4-53, and the original part number is 6-87-NV4PS-54B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted green below.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted yellow above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the RAM:

The Galago Pro 7 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280 with a PCIe NVMe Generation 4 interface.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Follow the steps above to remove the M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
    • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.

CMOS battery

  1. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green above.)
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and main battery, and replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the speakers:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the battery and remove the SSD.
  2. Unscrew the speaker screws.
    • Each speaker has two screws, which are set inside of rubber rings to reduce vibration.

Speaker screws and connectors

  1. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard and lift the speaker out of the machine.
    • The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
  2. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the SSD and battery (if necessary) and bottom panel.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Galago Pro 7 has a single heatsink with two fans for the CPU and integrated GPU. One fan is attached to the heatsink, while the other can be replaced independently.

If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the additional fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wire.
  3. Unplug the white fan connector for the additional fan, highlighted green below.

Fan screws

  1. Remove the two fan screws, highlighted red above.
  2. Replace the fan, screw in the two fan screws, and plug the white fan connector into the system.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the additional fan.
    • Removing the additional fan is optional, but is recommended to ensure the fan properly overlaps the heatsink's air guide after reinstallation.
  2. Unplug the remaining fan connector, highlighted green below.

Heatsink screws

  1. Remove the two fan screws for the remaining fan, highlighted red above.
  2. Remove the four heatsink screws (highlighted cyan above) in order, starting with #5, then #6, and continuing until #8.
    • Screws #1-4 are for the dedicated GPU portion of the heatsink, and are not installed on the Galago Pro 7.
  3. Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  4. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each die of the CPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the four heatsink screws, starting with #5, then #6, and continuing until #8.
  3. Screw in the attached fan and plug its connector back into the motherboard.
  4. Replace the additional fan and bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws, highlighted green below.

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine upright and flip the keyboard down onto the touchpad. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Gazelle (gaze18)

Gazelle

The System76 Gazelle is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • Chipset
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • Dedicated GPU:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
        • TGP: 70W (95W boost)
    • Integrated GPU:
      • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • eDP display:
      • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel options:
          • BOE NV173FHM-N4C
          • BOE NE173FHM-NX1
          • BOE NV173FHM-NY2
          • BOE NE173QHM-NY3
          • ...or other equivalent
      • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel options:
          • BOE NV156FHM-N4K
          • BOE NV156FHM-NX4
          • BOE NE156QHM-NY5
          • Innolux N156HCE-EN1
    • External video output:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
  • Power
    • 150W DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1151-76
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • 54Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: NP50BAT-4-54
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
      • Does not support DisplayPort over USB-C, USB-C charging (USB-PD), or Thunderbolt
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 15": 35.95cm x 23.8cm x 2.27cm, 1.99kg
    • 17": 39.69cm x 26.2cm x 2.5cm, 2.41kg

Gazelle (External Overview)

Left side overview:

15" Left Ports

Right side overview:

15" Right Ports (3060)

Front side overview:

15" Front Ports

Back side overview:

15" Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Materials:

PartMaterial
LCD back cover (lid)Plastic
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic
Bottom panelPlastic

LED indicators:

The Gazelle has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

The Gazelle has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
Fn-/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
Fn--Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
Fn-+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Gazelle (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in red
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in cyan
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
  • Wireless card is highlighted in blue
  • RAM is highlighted in maroon
  • BIOS flash chip (U24) is highlighted in black
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
    • Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
    • Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in green
  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red

Gazelle (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Gazelle can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from over the ports in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Gazelle 18 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Pull the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The inner-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4, and the outer-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Gazelle's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Gazelle 18's battery is NP50BAT-4-54, and the original part number is 6-87-NP5KS-51B00. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver Time estimate: 8 minutes Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.

Battery

  1. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted red above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Follow the steps above to remove the outermost M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
    • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
  3. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.

CMOS battery

  1. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  2. Re-connect the CMOS battery.
  3. Reconnect the main battery, replace the M.2 SSD, and replace the bottom cover.
  4. Power up the Gazelle. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Gazelle 18 includes two fans as part of a single heatsink/fan assembly.

If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
  3. Remove the silver heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
    • Note: Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
  2. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto both CPU chips and the GPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the silver heatsink and fan screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
  3. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the keyboard adhesive strip at the edge of the motherboard underneath the right fan's heatsink pipe, highlighted green below.
    • You can optionally remove the heatsink to make the adhesive easier to grasp. Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the heatsink is removed.

Keyboard adhesive strip location

  1. Using a pair of tweezers to reach the end of the strip (if necessary), pull out the end of the keyboard adhesive strip to stretch and detatch it.
  2. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  3. Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (next to the RAM slot) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point location Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbon connectors

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the bottom cover.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the left speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
  2. Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.

I/O daughterboard ribbon cable

  1. Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
    • The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
  2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Left speaker wire and posts

  1. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
  2. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
  3. Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
  4. Replace the main battery and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
    • The outermost SSD can optionally be removed to make it easier to work with the speaker plug.
  2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Right speaker wire and posts

  1. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.
  2. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
  3. Replace the SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Kudu (kudu6)

Kudu

The System76 Kudu is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
    • W74M12JWSSIQ flash chip
      • SOIC-8 form factor
    • Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
  • EC
    • ITE IT5570E
    • Programmed with non-open EC firmware
  • Graphics
    • Dedicated GPU:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
        • TGP: 60W
    • Integrated GPU:
      • AMD Radeon RX Vega 8
    • eDP display options:
      • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: AUO B156HAN08.4 (or equivalent)
    • External video output:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
  • Power
    • 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13
    • 48.96Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: NH50BAT-4
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
  • USB
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD) or Thunderbolt
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 15": 36.1cm x 25.8cm x 2.9cm, 2.2kg

Kudu (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Materials:

PartMaterial
LCD back cover (lid)Aluminum
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic
Bottom panelPlastic

LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
-Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness

Kudu (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in pink
  • DC-in power connector is highlighted in red
  • BIOS flash chip (U51) is highlighted in black
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
  • RAM is highlighted in dotted green
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dotted yellow
  • Wireless card is highlighted in blue
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in solid yellow
  • CMOS battery is highlighted in solid green

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Front LED connector is highlighted in green

Kudu (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Kudu can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Kudu 6's battery is NH50BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-NH50S-42D01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Slide the locking slider (highlighted cyan below) into the unlocked position.

Battery

  1. While holding the springing slider (highlighted red above) in the unlocked position, grasp the tab in the corner and lift the battery out of the machine.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery.
  2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
    • The silver hinge screw (highlighted cyan below) is slightly shorter than the rest.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off of the case, starting behind the battery slot.

Replacing the RAM:

The Kudu 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM removal

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280, and both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 3 only.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Kudu's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the main battery and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
    • If you are replacing the battery, remove any clear tape, then gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.

CMOS battery

  1. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  2. Re-connect the CMOS battery, replace the bottom panel, and replace the main battery.
  3. Power up the Kudu. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Kudu 6 has a single heatsink for the CPU and GPU. One fan is attached to the heatsink, while the other fan is separate from the heatsink.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the standalone fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the standalone fan.
    • The standalone fan is located between the battery slot and the M.2 drives, next to the DC-in port.
  3. If there is any clear tape on the fan securing the DC-in cable, remove it.
  4. Remove the three screws attaching the standalone fan to the chassis.
    • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan's cover on.

Standalone fan screws

  1. Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan above.
  2. Lift the fan out of the system.
    • The fan grill at the edge of the chassis is part of the heatsink, and will not lift out with the fan.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the standalone fan.
    • Removing the standalone fan is not physically required, but is recommended to ensure the heatsink is reinstalled properly.
  2. Remove the heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #10.
    • The first four screws (#1 - #4) are held captive and will not pull away from the heat sink when loosened.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the white fan connector from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
  2. Remove the heatsink/fan from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the silver heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #6.
  3. Replace the black fan screws.
  4. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the DC-in jack:

If the DC-in jack (power port) is no longer making contact with the barrel charger, and replacing the charger doesn't fix the issue, the DC-in jack can be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the DC-in jack:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove any clear tape securing the internal DC-in cable.
  3. Unscrew the two screws holding the DC-in connector onto the chassis, highlighted cyan below.

DC-in power connector

  1. Unplug the internal DC-in cable from the motherboard.
  2. Plug in the new cable, replace the screws, and (optionally) replace the tape.

Replacing the keyboard:

Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 2 keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons.

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbon connectors

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Launch (launch_3)

Launch Photo

The System76 Launch is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

  • Chassis
  • Electronics
  • Sockets and Switches
    • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
    • Default switch options:
      • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
      • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
      • Kailh Box Silent Brown
      • Kailh Box Silent Pink
  • Keycaps
    • PBT plastic
    • Dye sublimated legend
    • XDA profile
    • Sizes:
      • 3x 2U keycaps (both Space bars and left Shift)
        • All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
      • 8x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, Bksp, and Del)
      • 73x 1U keycaps
  • Layout
    • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
  • Custom Configurations
  • Integrated Hub
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • Firmware
  • Included cables:
    • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
    • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 30.83cm x 13.51cm x 3.061cm, 948g

Launch (External Overview)

Top overview:

Launch Top Overview

Back overview:

Launch Ports

Box contents overview:

Launch Box Contents

Launch (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.

Connecting and using Launch:

Launch ports

  1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch's center USB-C port, shown above.
  2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
  3. Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove a keycap:

  1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
    • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

Inserting the keycap puller

Removing a keycap

  1. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removed keycap

Removing larger keycaps:

  • The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch's keycap sizes.
  • The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
    • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Removing larger keycaps

Steps to install a keycap:

  1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
  2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
    • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
    • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Installing a keycap

Removing and installing switches:

Because Launch uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to remove a switch:

  1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
  2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

Switch removal

  1. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
  2. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
    • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
    • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

A removed switch

Steps to install a switch:

  1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
    • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
    • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

Bent vs. straight switch pins

  1. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

Switch orientation

  1. Place the switch straight into the plate.
    • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
    • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
  2. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Switch installation

Removing the PCB:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High

If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.

Steps to remove the PCB:

  1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
    • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

Launch with all keycaps removed Launch with all switches removed

  1. Turn the keyboard over and remove the five bottom panel screws.
    • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Remove the bottom panel.
    • If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.

Bottom panel removed

  1. Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
    • To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Loose PCB

Steps to install the PCB:

  1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
    • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
    • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
    • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

Switches installed in chassis

  1. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
    • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
    • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
    • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

Switch pins in chassis (with a bent pin)

  1. Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C ports on the top edge.
    • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
    • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
    • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
    • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

Switch pins visible through sockets

  1. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
    • If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
      • The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.

Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_3)

Launch Heavy

The System76 Launch Heavy is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

  • Chassis
  • Electronics
  • Sockets and Switches
    • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
    • Default switch options:
      • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
      • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
      • Kailh Box Silent Brown
      • Kailh Box Silent Pink
  • Keycaps
    • PBT plastic
    • Dye sublimated legend
    • XDA profile
    • Sizes:
      • 6x 2U keycaps (both Space bars, left Shift, numpad 0, numpad +, and numpad Enter)
        • All six 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
      • 8x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, Bksp, and Del)
      • 91x 1U keycaps
  • Layout
    • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
  • Custom Configurations
  • Integrated Hub
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • Firmware
  • Included cables:
    • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
    • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 39.40cm x 13.51cm x 3.03cm, 1315.42g

Launch Heavy (External Overview)

Top overview:

Launch Heavy Top Overview

Back overview:

Launch Heavy Ports

Box contents overview:

Launch Heavy Box Contents

Launch Heavy (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Heavy Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch Heavy before changing keycaps or switches.

Connecting and using Launch Heavy:

  1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Heavy's center USB-C port.

Launch ports

  1. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
  2. Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch Heavy.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch Heavy uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 25 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove a keycap:

  1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
    • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

Inserting the keycap puller

Removing a keycap

  1. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removed keycap

Removing larger keycaps:

  • The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Heavy's keycap sizes.
  • The six 2U keycaps (both Space bars, left Shift, numpad 0, numpad +, and numpad Enter) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
    • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Removing larger keycaps

Steps to install a keycap:

  1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
  2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
    • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
    • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Installing a keycap

Removing and installing switches:

Launch Heavy uses Kailh hot swap sockets, so key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Heavy, it is recommended to completely remove the PCBs, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCBs into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCBs.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to remove a switch:

  1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
  2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.
    • For the vertical keys on the numpad, the locking tabs are on the left and right edges of the switch.

Switch removal

  1. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
  2. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
    • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
    • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

A removed switch

Steps to install a switch:

  1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
    • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
    • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

Bent vs. straight switch pins

  1. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB.
    • For the two vertical keys on the numpad, the LED window goes on the right.
    • For all other switches, the LED window goes on the top.

Switch orientation

  1. Place the switch straight into the plate.
    • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
    • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
  2. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Switch installation

Removing the PCBs:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High

If either of the PCBs in your Launch Heavy become damaged and need to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches in the keyboard, they can be removed and replaced using these instructions. The two PCBs are joined by a 100mm long, 20 pin, 0.5mm pitch FPC cable.

Steps to remove the PCBs:

  1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
    • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

Launch Heavy with all keycaps removed Launch Heavy with all switches removed

  1. Turn the keyboard over and remove the eight bottom panel screws.
    • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Remove the bottom panel.
    • If the magnetic lift bars are installed, they can be used as handles.

Bottom panel removed

  1. Disconnect and remove the flat ribbon cable between the main PCB (launch 3.2) and the numpad PCB (launch_heavy 1.2).
    • Slide the black latches away from the white connectors to free the cable.

Ribbon cable

  1. Push each PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift each PCB out of the chassis, one at a time.
    • For the main board, to avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Loose PCBs

Steps to install the PCBs:

  1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
    • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCBs, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCBs or switches during installation.
    • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation.
      • For the two vertical keys on the numpad (highlighted red below), the LED window goes on the right.
      • For all other switches, the LED window goes on the top.
    • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

Switches installed in chassis

  1. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
    • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
    • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCBs, the switch or corresponding PCB may be damaged.
    • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

Switch pins in chassis (with a bent pin)

  1. Carefully line up the main PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
    • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
    • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
    • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
    • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

Switch pins visible through sockets

  1. Repeat the previous step for the numpad PCB.
  2. Insert the ribbon cable into the white connector on both PCBs, then slide the black latches shut.
    • The ribbon should bend downwards from the connectors, so as not to obstruct the screw hole in the numpad PCB.
  3. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
    • If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
      • The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.

Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)

Launch Lite Photo

The System76 Launch Lite is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

  • Chassis
  • Electronics
  • Sockets and Switches
    • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
    • Default switch options:
      • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
      • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
      • Kailh Box Silent Brown
      • Kailh Box Silent Pink
  • Keycaps
    • PBT plastic
    • Dye sublimated legend
    • XDA profile
    • Sizes:
      • 3x 2U keycaps (both Space bars and left Shift)
        • All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
      • 7x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, and Bksp)
      • 60x 1U keycaps
  • Layout
    • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
  • Custom Configurations
  • Firmware
  • Included cables:
    • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
    • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 30.83cm x 10.71cm x 3.06cm, 816.46g

Launch Lite (External Overview)

Top overview:

Top Overview

Back overview:

Back Ports

Box contents overview:

Launch Box Contents

  • Contact System76 Support to purchase replacement accessories (availability may vary.)

Launch Lite (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Lite Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.

Connecting and using Launch Lite:

Launch Lite port

  1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Lite's USB-C port, shown above.
  2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch Lite uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove a keycap:

  1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
    • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

Inserting the keycap puller

Removing a keycap

  1. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removed keycap

Removing larger keycaps:

  • The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Lite's keycap sizes.
  • The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
    • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Removing larger keycaps

Steps to install a keycap:

  1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
  2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
    • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
    • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Installing a keycap

Removing and installing switches:

Because Launch Lite uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Lite, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to remove a switch:

  1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
  2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

Switch removal

  1. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
  2. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
    • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
    • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

A removed switch

Steps to install a switch:

  1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
    • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
    • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

Bent vs. straight switch pins

  1. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

Switch orientation

  1. Place the switch straight into the plate.
    • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
    • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
  2. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Switch installation

Removing the PCB:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High

If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.

Steps to remove the PCB:

  1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
    • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

Launch Lite with all keycaps removed Launch Lite with all switches removed

  1. Turn the keyboard over and remove the four bottom panel screws.
    • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Remove the bottom panel.
    • If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.
    • A small plastic spacer (highlighted cyan below) may come loose; if it does, place it back in the middle PCB hole.

Bottom panel removed

  1. Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
    • To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Loose PCB

Steps to install the PCB:

  1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
    • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
    • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
    • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

Switches installed in chassis

  1. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
    • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
    • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
    • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

Switch pins in chassis (with a bent pin)

  1. Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
    • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
    • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
    • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
    • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

Switch pins visible through sockets

  1. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
    • If any of the oval magnets came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
      • The magnets are held in by glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed.

Lemur Pro (lemp13)

Lemur Pro

The System76 Lemur Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
      • GOP driver is recommended, VBT is provided
    • eDP display: 14.0" 1920x1200@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • Tianma TM140VDHP21
          • Brightness: 400 nits (cd/m²)
          • sRGB color coverage: 100%
        • BOE NE140WUM-N6F
          • Brightness: 400 nits (cd/m²)
          • sRGB color coverage: 100%
        • ...or other equivalent
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR5
    • Channel 1: 8-GB/16-GB/32-GB/48-GB DDR5 SO-DIMM @ 4800 MHz
  • Networking
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
        • Bluetooth 5.3
  • Power
    • 20V, 3.25A (65W) DC-in
      • Power input via either USB-C port
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A20-065N3A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: L240BAT-4-73
  • Sound
    • Intel Meteor Lake-P HD Audio Controller
      • Realtek ALC245 audio codec
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
    • MicroSD card reader (OZ711LV2)
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 1.7cm x 31.2cm x 22.3cm, 0.998kg

Lemur Pro (External Overview)

Left side:

Left Ports

Right side:

Right Ports

Front side:

Front Ports

Back side:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Lid:

Lid

Speakers:

The machine has two bottom-firing speakers near the front, angled outward.

Bottom Ports

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Magnesium-aluminum alloy6-39-L2401-022
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic6-39-L2401-012
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Magnesium-aluminum alloy6-39-L2402-032
Bottom panelMagnesium-aluminum alloy6-39-L2403-012

LED indicators

The color and pattern for the power/charging status LED indicate:

  • Solid green: Powered on and not suspended.
  • Flashing green: Powered on and suspended.
  • Solid yellow: Powered off and charging.
  • Off: Powered off and not charging.

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Lemur Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Mute/unmute microphone
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute/unmute speakers
Fn-F4Fn+F4Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-accentFn+`Play/Pause
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Lemur Pro (Internal Overview)

Components and connectors:

Components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs. Connectors can be reseated for troubleshooting purposes.

Internal Components

  • RAM slot is highlighted in maroon
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in light green
    • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • Wireless card is highlighted in dark green
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • LCD cable connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in orange
  • Keyboard connector (main) is highlighted in brown
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in white
  • Battery connector is highlighted in light red
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in navy
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in pink
  • BIOS flash chip (U55) is highlighted in black

Lemur Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Lemur Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Part numbers:

  • The bottom panel's part number is 6-39-L2403-012.
  • Replacement product model stickers can be obtained from System76 support.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Screws: 12 total

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 12 screws from the bottom panel.

Bottom case screws

  1. Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Lemur Pro 13 comes with 8GB of 4800 MHz RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which cannot be replaced. There is an additional RAM slot, which can support up to a 48GB stick for 56GB of RAM total. The additional stick is a standard DDR5 SO-DIMM running at 4800 MHz.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM tabs

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
    • SSD-1 is between the battery and the speaker.
    • SSD-2 is next to the RAM slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it down.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your system's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It connects with a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Part numbers:

  • The standard wireless card is an Intel AX211NGW.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless card (next to the CPU fan.) Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the main battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Part numbers:

  • The battery's model number is L240BAT-4-73, and the original part number is 6-87-L240S-74B01.
    • Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number.
    • You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the main battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the four silver battery screws along the perimeter of the battery.

Main battery

  1. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
  2. Remove the and replace the battery.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Part numbers:

  • The CMOS battery is a standard 3V KTS CR2032W battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Follow the steps above to remove the SSD from slot 1, if installed.
  3. Remove any clear tape that is securing the battery, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
    • If you are only clearing the CMOS and are not replacing the CMOS battery, removing the SSD and CMOS battery is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.

CMOS battery

  1. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Part numbers:

  • The fan/heatsink assembly's part number is 6-31-L240N-102.
  • The fan is an FCN FSAP DFS5L22H15B85P EP.
    • The fan/heatsink is produced as a single assembly. Sourcing a replacement fan without the heatsink may not be possible.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Disconnect the small connector plugging the fan into the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
    • This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.

Heatsink/fan screws

  1. Remove the silver fan and heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #5.
  2. Remove the heatsink/fan from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the fan and heatsink.
  2. Replace the fan and heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #5.
  3. Plug the fan back in.
    • When plugging the fan in, the black wire goes on the left (closest to the side of the machine.)

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Part numbers:

  • The left speaker's model number is L240TU-L-BASS, and its part number is 6-23-5L240-0L2.
  • The right speaker's model number is L240TU-R-BASS, and its part number is 6-23-5L240-0R2.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the speakers:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Speaker wires and tabs

  1. Pull the tops of the black rubber circles over the gray tabs holding them in place.
  2. Lift the speaker up and off of the mounting posts.

Speaker removal

  1. Slide the new speaker onto the mounting posts and connect it to the motherboard.

Meerkat (meer8)

Meerkat (short)

The System76 Meerkat is a desktop with the following specifications:

  • CPU options
  • Graphics
    • GPU:
      • i3 model: Intel UHD Graphics
      • i5 & i7 model: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • Video output:
      • 2x HDMI 2.1
      • 2x DisplayPort 1.4a over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) Dual Channel DDR4 SODIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel i225-LM)
      • Optional I/O add-on (tall model only): additional 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
    • Wi-Fi 6E & Bluetooth 5.3 (Intel AX211)
  • Power
    • i3 model:
      • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
        • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
      • Included AC adapter*: APD DA-90J19
        • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • i5 and i7 models:
      • 120W (20V, 6.0A) DC-in port
        • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
      • Included AC adapter*: Delta ADP-120VH
        • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • * Included AC adapter may be a different model with the same specifications.
  • Sound
    • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
    • 7.1-channel digital audio output over HDMI and USB-C
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 2280 (M key)
      • PCIe NVMe Gen 4
    • 1x M.2 2242 (B key)
      • SATA III
      • In the tall model, the optional I/O add-on occupies this slot.
    • Tall model only: 1x 2.5"
      • SATA III
  • USB
    • 2x USB4 Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
      • Optional I/O add-on (tall model only): additional 2x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • Short: 117 x 112 x 37mm
    • Tall: 117 x 112 x 54mm

Meerkat (External Overview)

Front side overview:

Front ports

Left side overview:

Left ports

Right side overview:

Right ports

Back side overview:

Short model:

Back ports

Tall model with optional I/O add-on:

Back ports (tall)

Meerkat (Internal Overview)

Component overview:

Internal overview

  • M.2 2280 (NVMe) SSD slot is highlighted in yellow
  • M.2 2242 (SATA) SSD slot is highlighted in cyan
    • Occupied by the optional I/O add-on (if installed) in the tall model
  • 2.5" SATA ribbon connector is highlighted in green
    • Only used in the tall model
  • Wireless card (underneath the NVMe SSD) is highlighted in red
  • RAM slots are highlighted in pink
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in white
  • Motherboard screws are highlighted in black

Meerkat (Parts & Repairs)

Several components in your Meerkat can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom panel:

The bottom panel can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom panel:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Completely loosen the four screws in the corners.
    • The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the bottom panel.
    • Multiple sets of screws may be present on the tall model; the outermost screws (surrounded by rubber feet) are for the bottom panel.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Gently lift the bottom panel out of the machine.
    • If your Meerkat is the tall model (with a 2.5" drive slot), be careful not to damage the thin cable running from the motherboard to the bottom panel.

Replacing an M.2 drive:

Your Meerkat has two M.2 slots. The first slot is size 2280 and supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4. The second slot is size 2242 and supports SATA III.

If you have the tall model Meerkat with the optional I/O expansion module, it will occupy the 2242 slot.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 6 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
    • The 2280 slot screw is highlighted cyan below, while the 2242 slot screw is highlighted red.
    • In the tall model, if the optional I/O expansion module is installed, its connector will occupy the 2242 slot (highlighted red).

M.2 slot screw

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the RAM:

The Meerkat 8 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
  2. Pull the small tabs on both sides of the RAM away from the RAM stick simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM latch

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive:

If your Meerkat is the tall variety, it has a 2.5" SATA III drive bay built into the bottom panel.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove a 2.5" storage drive:

  1. If a 2.5" drive was not already installed, pull the four rubber plugs out of the bottom of the Meerkat.
    • This can be done before or after opening the machine.

Bottom panel plugs

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
  2. Locate the SATA connector in the bottom panel and orient your drive to match.

2.5" drive port

  1. Slide the drive into the slot on the bottom panel until it plugs all the way into its connector.

2.5" drive installation

  1. Insert four 2.5" drive screws through the bottom panel to secure the 2.5" drive.

2.5" drive screws

  1. Replace the bottom panel.

Resetting the CMOS:

A CMOS reset will restore the UEFI firmware settings to their factory defaults, which can sometimes help if the system is not booting.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver and (optionally) tweezers
Time estimate: 13 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to reset CMOS:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
  2. Disconnect the CMOS battery connector (labeled RTCBAT on the motherboard).
    • Try to pull the plug, not the wires.

CMOS battery connector

  1. Hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  2. Reconnect the CMOS battery.
  3. Replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may take longer than usual to boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Meerkat's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, 5.0 mm hex socket
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
  2. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted cyan below) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.

Wireless card

  1. Use the 5mm hex socket to remove the M.2 screw standoff, which also holds the wireless card in place.
  2. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  3. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  4. Replace the retaining standoff.
  5. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place.
    • Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Removing the optional I/O add-on:

The optional I/O add-on is an expansion module that adds one additional 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet port and two additional USB 2.0 Type-A ports to the system.

If you ordered your Meerkat with this module, the steps below can be used to remove it. If you're upgrading your Meerkat with the module, reverse the steps to install it.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to remove the optional I/O add-on:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
  2. Disconnect the module's ribbon cable by flipping the black latches up and pulling the ribbon out of the connectors on either side.

I/O expansion module (internal view)

  1. Unscrew the M.2 screw holding the expansion module's adapter into the M.2 2242 slot and remove the adapter.
  2. Unscrew the two screws holding the expansion module in from the back of the system.

I/O expansion module (external view)

  1. Lift the expansion module out of the system.
    • When reinstalling the expansion module, the side labeled BTM should face outwards (so it will point down towards the bottom of the machine once the system is upright).

Steps to remove the expansion slot placeholder:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
  2. Unscrew the two screws holding the expansion slot placeholder in from the back of the system.

Expansion slot placeholder

  1. Lift the expansion slot placeholder out of the system.
    • When reinstalling the slot placeholder, the side labeled BTM should face outwards (so it will point down towards the bottom of the machine once the system is upright).

Removing the motherboard:

Removing the motherboard is necessary for replacing the CMOS battery, cooling fan, and thermal paste.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to remove the motherboard:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
  2. If your Meerkat is the tall variety:

SATA drive bay ribbon cable connector

  1. Disconnect the two wireless antenna cables.
  2. Remove the two motherboard mounting screws along the back edge of the machine.

Motherboard mounting screws

  1. Carefully lift the motherboard out of the case.
    • It is easiest to lift the front side first, pivoting the board against the back side of the case.
    • Removing the RAM is not required, but can make removing the motherboard easier.
    • Slightly squeezing the front sides of the chassis can help provide more clearance while pivoting the motherboard.

Replacing the fan:

The cooling fan can be removed to clean dust out of the cooling system or to access the CPU heatsink when replacing the thermal paste.

The fan is an AVC BAZC0810R5HY006. The screws used for the fan are the same type as those used for the M.2 SSDs.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the M.2 drive, unplug the wireless card, and remove the motherboard.
  2. Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan below.

Cooling fan

  1. Remove the two fan screws (highlighted yellow above) and remove the fan.
    • The plastic strip at the bottom of the fan is adhered to the heatsink; gently pull the fan off of the heatsink.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip, where UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored. If your clock is constantly resetting, your CMOS battery may need to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 27 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the motherboard, remove the fan, and unplug the CMOS battery.
  2. The CMOS battery is adhered to the motherboard with double-sided tape. Gently pull the CMOS battery off of the motherboard.

CMOS battery

  1. Stick the new CMOS battery onto the motherboard using the included double-sided tape (if present), then plug the new CMOS battery in and replace the fan, motherboard, and bottom panel.

Replacing the thermal paste:

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the M.2 drive, unplug the wireless card, remove the motherboard, and remove the fan.
  2. Loosen the four heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
    • The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the heatsink.

Heatsink screws

  1. Gently lift the heatsink off of the motherboard.
  2. Using a paper towel, clean the old thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Heatsink and motherboard after cleaning

  1. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

Thermal paste applied to CPU

  1. Replace the heatsink and tighten the four screws in the order, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
  2. Reinstall the fan, motherboard, wireless card, M.2 drive, and bottom panel.

Removing the cable keeper:

Your Meerkat comes with a cable organizer to help hold cables in place. The cable organizer can be removed for a lower profile.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the cable keeper:

  1. Unscrew the Phillips thumbscrew holding the cable keeper in place.

Cable keeper

Removing the top cover:

The Meerkat's top cover can be removed or replaced.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top cover:

  1. Pull up on the grooves in the back of the cover.
    • A flat tool can optionally be used to help pry the cover away from the rest of the chassis.

Top cover grooves

  1. Once the back is free, pull the rest of the top cover off of the machine.

Top cover removed

Mounting with VESA Mount:

Your Meerkat comes with a VESA mount adapter, which allows it to be mounted on the back of a display. This allows operation as an all-in-one, taking up no additional desk space.

Because the Meerkat mounts to the display's VESA mount, this will only work on displays which aren't already mounted via the VESA mount.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to mount with the VESA adapter:

  1. Insert the two shoulder screws into the bottom of the Meerkat.

VESA mount screws in Meerkat

  1. Use the remaining four screws to attach the VESA mounting plate, using the arrow to guide the orientation.

VESA mounting plate on display

  1. Insert the two shoulder screws in the Meerkat into the two holes in the mounting plate (highlighted cyan above), then set the Meerkat down so it hangs on the mounting plate.
    • The Meerkat can be mounted in either direction.

Meerkat on display

nebula19 (nebula19-1)

nebula19

The System76 nebula19 is a desktop chassis (for DIY builds) with the following specifications:

  • Dimensions
    • Size: 32.7cm × 20.7cm × 29.1cm
    • Volume: 19 litres
  • Motherboard sizes
    • Mini-ITX
  • GPU compatibility
    • Internal clearance: 278.175mm
    • Recommended maximum length: 268.175mm
  • Cooling capacity
    • 2x 92mm CPU fans
      • Rear exhaust fan: Be Quiet! PUW2-9225-MR-PWM
      • CPU cooler (optional add-on): Noctua NH-U9S
        • Fan included with add-on: Noctua NF-A9 PWM
    • 1x 140mm bottom intake fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-14025-LF-PWM
    • 1x 120mm side intake fan (optional add-on): Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
  • Daughterboards
    • Nebula Io power button controller board
    • MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board
    • Thelio Io SATA 2.5" drive backplane (optional add-on)

nebula19 (External Overview)

Front/back overview:

Front & Back Views

Left/right side overview:

Left & Right Side Views

Top/bottom overview:

Top & Bottom Views

nebula19 (Parts & Assembly)

The nebula19 chassis is ready to be outfitted with standard personal computer components. If the system has already been built, ensure the system is powered off and all cables are unplugged from the motherboard, PCIe cards, power supply, and front I/O before opening the chassis.

The preinstalled velcro strips are left partially unwrapped to aid in removal. When building the system, you can optionally wrap the velcro up the rest of the way.

Replacing the front accent strip:

nebula19 includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

  • Tools required: None

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

  1. Place the nebula19 on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
    • The nebula19 can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
  2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
    • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
  3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
  4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Front accent strip removal

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct supports one or more of the CPU fans and guides airflow from the side of the case through the CPU radiator to the back exhaust vent. The CPU duct is custom-designed to work with the Noctua NH-U9S CPU cooler that's optionally included with nebula19.

CPU duct

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two side screws holding the CPU duct onto the top crossbar.

CPU duct top crossbar screws

  1. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct onto the chassis.
    • Hold onto the duct while removing the final screw so it doesn't fall.

CPU duct back screws

  1. Pull the CPU duct out of the chassis.
  2. When replacing the CPU duct, ensure all fan cables are plugged into the fan splitter board in the top right of the chassis.

Unpacking the included accessories:

nebula19 includes the following components preinstalled:

  • 1x nebula_io power button controller board
  • 1x MYS7523 top I/O board
  • 2x four-pin fan splitter boards
  • 1x back CPU duct fan
    • Be Quiet! Pure Wings 2 92mm (BQ PUW2-9225-MR-PWM)
  • 2x short velcro straps
    • 1x on the side of the chassis
    • 1x on the side fan bracket

In addition, nebula19 ships with the following non-installed accessories:

  • 1x Screw and velcro box
    • 8x short velcro straps
    • 1x long velcro strap
    • 4x motherboard standoffs
    • 4x M3 (motherboard) screws
    • 4x fan screws
  • 1x Bottom case fan
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 140mm (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM)
  • 1x CPU cooler w/ fan (optional)
    • Noctua NH-U9S cooler w/ NF-A9 PWM fan
  • 1x Side bracket fan (optional)
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)

Steps to unpack the included accessories:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Remove the accessory boxes from the chassis.

Accessory boxes

  1. Open the accessory boxes as needed.

Installing/removing the side fan bracket:

The side fan bracket provides a mounting point for an extra intake fan, such as the optional BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM.

If no optional accessories were ordered with the nebula19, then the side fan bracket will ship preinstalled. If optional accessories were included in the order, then they will ship inside of the chassis, and the side fan bracket will ship in a separate box. It can be installed after assembling the rest of the computer.

Side fan bracket

The fan splitter on the side fan bracket can be used for the side intake fan installed on the side fan bracket as well as the bottom chassis intake fan.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to unpack and install the side fan bracket:

  1. Remove the top case and unpack the included accessories.
  2. Cut the tape of the side fan bracket box and remove the side fan bracket and screw bag from the box.

Side fan bracket unboxing

  1. Screw the side fan bracket into the system using the four M3 screws included with the side fan bracket.
    • The fan splitter board should be on the right side (with the dual headers facing outwards) and the rockets should point upwards.

Side fan bracket screws

Steps to remove the side fan bracket:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side fan bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

side fan bracket screws

  1. Pull the side fan bracket out of the chassis.

Installing the motherboard:

nebula19 supports the following standard motherboard sizes:

  • Mini-DTX
  • Mini-ITX

Four standoffs and motherboard screws are included.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the motherboard:

  1. If they are installed, remove the top case, remove the CPU duct and remove the side fan bracket.
  2. Locate the standoffs and M3 screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

Standoffs and M3 screws

  1. Insert the four standoffs into the holes in the chassis.

Standoff holes

  1. Install the motherboard's I/O shield onto the back of the chassis by pressing it into place from the inside.
  2. Place the motherboard into the chassis, aligning the motherboard's screw holes with the installed standoffs.
  3. Screw the motherboard into the standoffs using the M3 screws.

Installing the CPU duct fans:

nebula19 ships with one 92mm fan (BQ PUW2-9225-MR-PWM) installed in the back of the CPU duct. If you install a CPU cooler with its own 92mm fan, such as the optional Noctua NH-U9S cooler sold with nebula19 (which includes a Noctua NF-A9 PWM fan), then the CPU cooler's fan can be mounted in the front of the CPU duct.

These instructions use the Noctua NH-U9S as an example.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the CPU cooler fan (front):

  1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
  2. Remove the fan screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

Fan screws

  1. Remove the NH-U9S from the box.

Noctua NH-U9S unboxing

  1. Remove the included NF-F12 fan from the cooler heatsink by pulling the metal tabs (highlighted green above) off of the heatsink and fan.
  2. Install the cooler onto the motherboard/processor.
  3. Remove the front fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted green below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

CPU duct front fan bracket

  1. Place the spinning side of the down up and the stationary cover up, then orient the fan so the wire points towards the top left (and the fan cover's logo sticker is upside-down).
    • The wire can be oriented in other directions if desired for cable management purposes, as long as the wire is able to reach the fan splitter board after the fan is installed.
  2. Place the fan bracket over the fan so the thinnest side (without the 90-degree flange) is on the right.
  3. Screw in the four fan screws.
    • It may take some force to thread the fan screws into the fan's plastic frame.

CPU duct fan installation

  1. Place the CPU duct fan and bracket into the CPU duct, with the thinnest side of the bracket (without the 90-degree flange) pointed into the duct.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face the front of the chassis, while the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis.
  2. Replace the screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU duct.
    • The front and back brackets face in opposite directions from each other.

Steps to replace the preinstalled CPU duct fan (back):

  1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
  2. Remove the back fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted yellow below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

CPU duct back fan bracket

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws holding the fan onto the bracket.

CPU duct rear exhaust fan

  1. When reinstalling the fan, the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis, and the wire should face the upper interior corner of the chassis (with the fan cover's logo upside-down). The thinnest side of the bracket (without the 90-degree flange) should face directly into the duct.
    • The wire can be oriented in other directions if desired for cable management purposes, as long as the wire is able to reach the fan splitter board after the fan and CPU cooler heatsink are installed.

Installing the GPU:

nebula19 supports GPUs up to 278.175mm long. For optimal cooling and ease of installation, GPUs longer than 268.175mm are not recommended.

These instructions also apply to other PCI Express cards, such as add-in sound cards or networking cards.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the GPU:

  1. If not already installed, install the motherboard.
  2. Unscrew the two screws holding the PCIe bracket onto the chassis, then remove the bracket.

PCIe Bracket

  1. Remove a PCIe slot cover for each slot the new GPU will take up.
    • Additional slot covers may fall off after removing the PCIe brakcet; hold them up when replacing the bracket.
  2. Install the GPU into the motherboard.
  3. Replace the PCIe bracket, which will hold the end of the GPU in place.

Installing the SATA backplane:

nebula19 is designed to work with an optional SATA backplane to allow for easy hot-swapping of 2.5" storage drives. The SATA backplane can be seen below.

2.5" SATA backplane

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the SATA backplane:

  1. Remove the top case.
    • The side fan bracket can also be removed for easier access to the SATA backplane screws and wiring.
  2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

2.5" SATA drive cage cover

  1. If the SATA backplane's screw holes are covered by a translucent film, remove the film.
  2. Place the SATA backplane into the 2.5" drive cage, with the SATA0 label facing the front of the chassis.

SATA Backplane, Unscrewed

  1. Screw the backplane into the drive cage from the bottom using the four included M3 screws.
    • Remember to turn the screwdriver counterclockwise instead of clockwise if you're looking at the screws from the top. Alternatively, the system can be placed on its side for easier access to the screw holes.

2.5" SATA backplane screws

  1. Connect the white POWER0 header on the back of the SATA backplane to the power supply, and the black DATA0 and DATA1 ports to two of the motherboard's SATA ports.
    • The POWER0 header uses a four-pin Berg connector, also known as a floppy drive power connector.
  2. Install any 2.5" SATA drives and replace the drive cage cover, side fan bracket (if necessary), and top case.

Installing 2.5" drives:

The drive cage can hold two 2.5" drives. Drives of 7.5mm, 9mm, or 15mm are supported. Airflow will decrease below recommended levels with drives larger than 15mm.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install 2.5" drives:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

2.5" SATA drive cage & screws

  1. Remove the plastic ring from the top crossbar and slide out four screws for each drive being installed.
  2. Insert two screws into each side of the 2.5" drive, then slide the drive into the drive cage, aligning the rubber mounts on the screws around the metal of the drive cage.
    • The larger portion of the SATA connector (the power section) should be at the top, while the smaller portion (the data section) should be at the bottom.
  3. If the optional SATA backplane is not present, connect the SATA data and power cables from the bottom of the drive cage.
    • A cutout in the chassis allows easy access to the bottom of the drive cage.

Installing the bottom case fan:

The case includes a 140mm Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM fan (not installed by default).

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
  2. Remove the fan, dust filter, and fan screws from the 140mm fan box.

Bottom fan unboxing

  1. Set the machine down on its side.
  2. Line the components up over the fan screw holes.
    • The dust filter should have the shiny side facing the chassis.
    • The fan should have the stationary cover facing upwards and the wire facing the front-interior corner of the machine.
      • The wire can be passed through a cable management hole in the front-interior corner of the machine.
  3. Screw in the bottom fan from the bottom of the chassis.

Bottom fan screws

Installing side intake fan:

nebula19 supports one 120mm side intake fan mounted to the side fan bracket. A 120mm Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) is available as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

Steps to install the side intake fan:

  1. Remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
  2. Unpack the fan, dust filter, and fan screws from the fan box.

Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm Box

  1. Place the dust filter and fan in the desired position along the side fan bracket.
    • The shiny side of the dust filter should face the side fan bracket.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face outward, while the stationary label should face inward.
    • The fan wire should be oriented towards the fan splitter board on the side fan bracket.
  2. From the back, screw the fan screws through the side fan bracket and into the fan.
  3. Plug the side fan into one of the headers on the side fan bracket's fan splitter board. The nearby velcro strap can be used to hold the fan's cable.

Mounted side fan

  1. Replace the side fan bracket and top case.

Installing the power supply:

The system supports standard SFX power supplies. nebula19 includes a dust filter installed over the power supply's fan vent.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the power supply:

  1. Remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
  2. Place the power supply into the chassis with the fan facing down.
  3. While holding the power supply against the back of the chassis, screw in the four power supply screws.
    • Power supply screws are typically included with the power supply, and are not included with nebula19.

Power supply screw holes

Steps to replace the power supply dust filter:

  1. Remove the top case and remove the power supply.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the dust filter onto the chassis.

Power supply dust filter screws

  1. Remove, clean, and replace the dust filter.

Wiring the front I/O and power button:

nebula19 comes standard with two front daughterboards:

  • The nebula-io_2.2 power button controller.
  • The MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board.

The Nebula Io board can be used to power the system on when the top case is removed.

Both daughterboards can be removed and replaced if necessary. The external power button attached to the top case can also be replaced.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to wire the front I/O and power button:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Refer to the below diagram for powering the machine on or removing and replacing either daughterboard:
    • The front I/O board screws are highlighted in green.
    • The power button controller board screws are highlighted in red.
    • The internal power button is highlighted in cyan.

Front daughterboard screws

  1. Refer to the below diagram for wiring the front I/O and power button (the CPU duct and top crossbar have been removed for easier visibility):
    • The USB Type-C port cable (highlighted green) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.1 header.
    • The audio cable (highlighted yellow) connects to the motherboard's analog audio header.
    • The USB Type-A port cable (highlighted cyan) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.0 header.
    • The Nebula Io PMB1 header (highlighted red) connects to the motherboard's power button header.
      • The red wire should be on the right.
    • The Nebula Io PFP1 header (highlighted pink) connects to the power button receptacle.
      • The red wire should be on the right.
    • The power button receptacle header (highlighted orange) connects to the Nebula Io board.
      • The red wire should be on the left.

Front daughterboard connectors

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

nebula36 (nebula36-1)

nebula36

The System76 nebula36 is a desktop chassis (for DIY builds) with the following specifications:

  • Dimensions
    • Size: 43.6cm × 25.3cm × 31.9cm
    • Volume: 36 liters
  • Motherboard sizes
    • ATX
    • Mini-DTX
    • DTX
    • MicroATX
    • Mini-ITX
  • GPU compatibility
    • Internal clearance: 318.80mm
    • Recommended maximum length: 308.80mm
  • Cooling capacity
    • 2x 120mm CPU fans
      • Rear exhaust fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
      • CPU cooler (optional add-on): Noctua NH-U12S
        • Fan included with add-on: Noctua NF-F12 PWM
    • 1x 140mm bottom intake fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-14025-LF-PWM
    • 2x 120mm side intake fans
      • Optional add-on: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
  • Daughterboards
    • Nebula Io power button controller board
    • MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board
    • Thelio Io SATA 2.5" drive backplane (optional add-on)

nebula36 (External Overview)

Front/back overview:

Front & Back Views

Left/right side overview:

Left & Right Side Views

Top/bottom overview:

Top & Bottom Views

nebula36 (Parts & Assembly)

The nebula36 chassis is ready to be outfitted with standard personal computer components. If the system has already been built, ensure the system is powered off and all cables are unplugged from the motherboard, PCIe cards, power supply, and front I/O before opening the chassis.

The preinstalled velcro strips are left partially unwrapped to aid in removal. When building the system, you can optionally wrap the velcro up the rest of the way.

Replacing the front accent strip:

nebula36 includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

  • Tools required: None

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

  1. Place the nebula36 on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
    • The nebula36 can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
  2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
    • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
  3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
  4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Front accent strip removal

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the side fan bracket:

The side fan bracket provides a mounting point to help keep installed GPUs (or other PCI Express cards) in place while transporting the system. It can also be used to mount up to two extra intake fans (one, a BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM, is optional when purchasing the chassis; a second is not included.)

Side fan bracket

The fan splitter on the side fan bracket is intended for fans mounted on the side fan bracket, and should not be used for the CPU duct fans or the bottom intake fan.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the side fan bracket:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side fan bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

Side fan bracket screws

  1. Pull the side fan bracket out of the chassis.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct supports one or more of the CPU fans and guides airflow from the side of the case through the CPU radiator to the back exhaust vent. The CPU duct is custom-designed to work with the Noctua NH-U12S CPU cooler, which is available as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

CPU duct

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two side screws holding the CPU duct onto the top crossbar.

CPU duct top crossbar screws

  1. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct onto the chassis.
    • Hold onto the duct while removing the final screw so it doesn't fall.

CPU duct back screws

  1. Pull the CPU duct out of the chassis.
  2. When replacing the CPU duct, ensure all fan cables are plugged into one of the fan splitter boards in the top right of the chassis.

Unpacking the included accessories:

nebula36 includes the following components preinstalled:

  • 1x nebula_io power button controller board
  • 1x MYS7523 top I/O board
  • 3x four-pin fan splitter boards
  • 1x back CPU duct fan
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)
  • 1x bottom case fan
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 140mm (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM)
  • 7x short velcro straps
    • 1x on the front of the chassis
    • 3x on the side of the chassis
    • 1x on the bottom of the chassis
    • 1x on the CPU duct
    • 1x on the side fan bracket

In addition, nebula36 ships with the following non-installed accessories:

  • 1x Screw and velcro box
    • 15x short velcro straps
    • 1x long velcro strap
    • 9x motherboard standoffs
    • 9x M3 (motherboard) screws
    • 4x fan screws
  • 1x CPU cooler w/ fan (optional)
    • Noctua NH-U12S w/ NF-F12 PWM fan
  • 1x Side bracket fan (optional)
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)

Steps to unpack the included accessories:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side fan bracket, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Cut the zip ties holding the accessory boxes in place.
    • The image below highlights where the zip ties are joined; they can be cut anywhere, but must be cut between a joint and the chassis in order to be removed.

Accessory box zip ties

  1. Remove the accessory boxes from the chassis.

Installing the motherboard:

nebula36 supports the following standard motherboard sizes:

  • ATX
  • Mini-DTX
  • DTX
  • MicroATX
  • Mini-ITX

Nine standoffs and motherboard screws are included.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the motherboard:

  1. If they are installed, remove the top case, remove the CPU duct and remove the side fan bracket.
  2. Locate the standoffs and M3 screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

Standoffs and M3 screws

  1. Insert the standoffs into the appropriate holes for your motherboard size. The standoff screw holes are marked with shapes on the chassis, which correspond to the most common motherboard sizes:

    • Mini-ITX and Mini-DTX: hexagon (4 standoffs)
    • MicroATX: square (9 standoffs)
    • ATX: triangle (9 standoffs)

    The photo below also includes symbols for one additional motherboard size:

    • DTX: star (6 standoffs)

Standoff holes

  1. Install the motherboard's I/O shield onto the back of the chassis by pressing it into place from the inside.
  2. Place the motherboard into the chassis, aligning the motherboard's screw holes with the installed standoffs.
  3. Screw the motherboard into the standoffs using the M3 screws.

Installing the CPU duct fans:

nebula36 ships with one 120mm fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) installed in the back of the CPU duct. If you install a CPU cooler with its own fan, such as the optional Noctua NH-U12S cooler sold with nebula36 (which includes a Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan), then the CPU cooler's fan can be mounted in the front of the CPU duct.

These instructions use the Noctua NH-U12S as an example.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the CPU cooler fan (front):

  1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
  2. Remove the fan screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

Fan screws

  1. Remove the NH-U12S from the box.

Noctua NH-U12S unboxing

  1. Remove the included NF-F12 fan from the cooler heatsink by pulling the metal tabs (highlighted green above) off of the heatsink and fan.
  2. Install the cooler onto the motherboard/processor.
  3. Remove the front fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted green below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

CPU duct front fan bracket

  1. Place the spinning side of the fan down and the stationary cover up, then orient the fan so the wire points towards the bottom right.
  2. Place the fan bracket over the fan so the thinnest side (without the 90-degree flange) is on the left.
  3. Screw in the four fan screws.
    • It may take some force to thread the fan screws into the fan's plastic frame.

CPU duct fan installation

  1. Place the CPU duct fan and bracket into the CPU duct, with the thinnest side of the bracket (without the 90-degree flange) pointed into the duct.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face the front of the chassis, while the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis.
  2. Replace the screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU duct.
    • By default, the bracket is screwed as far back in the chassis (as farthest away from the L-shaped bend in the duct) as possible.

Steps to replace the preinstalled CPU duct fan (back):

  1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
  2. Remove the back fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted yellow below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

CPU duct back fan bracket

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws holding the fan onto the bracket.

CPU duct rear exhaust fan

  1. When reinstalling the fan, the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis, and the wire should face the upper interior corner of the CPU duct. The thinnest side of the bracket (without the 90-degree flange) should face directly into the duct.
    • The wire can be run along the top of the fan until it meets the velcro strap.

Installing the GPU:

nebula36 supports GPUs up to 318.80mm long. For optimal cooling and ease of installation, GPUs longer than 308.80mm are not recommended.

These instructions also apply to other PCI Express cards, such as add-in sound cards or networking cards.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the GPU:

  1. If not already installed, install the motherboard.
  2. Unscrew the two screws holding the PCIe bracket onto the chassis, then remove the bracket.

PCIe Bracket

  1. Remove a PCIe slot cover for each slot the new GPU will take up.
    • Additional slot covers may fall off after removing the PCIe brakcet; hold them up when replacing the bracket.
  2. Install the GPU into the motherboard.
  3. Replace the PCIe bracket, which will hold the end of the GPU in place.

Installing the SATA backplane:

nebula36 is designed to work with an optional SATA backplane to allow for easy hot-swapping of 2.5" storage drives. The SATA backplane can be seen below.

2.5" SATA backplane

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the SATA backplane:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

2.5" SATA drive cage cover

  1. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage.

2.5" SATA drive cage

  1. If the SATA backplane's screw holes are covered by a translucent film, remove the film.
  2. Place the SATA backplane into the drive cage.
    • The backplane should be oriented so the power plug will be at the top of the board after installing the drive cage back into the chassis.
  3. Screw the backplane into the drive cage from the outside.

2.5" SATA backplane screws

  1. Screw the drive cage back onto the chassis.
  2. Connect the POWER0 header on the back of the SATA backplane to the power supply, and the DATA0 and DATA1 ports to two of the motherboard's SATA ports.
    • The POWER0 header uses a four-pin Berg connector, also known as a floppy drive power connector.

2.5" SATA backplane headers

  1. Install any 2.5" SATA drives and replace the drive cage cover, side fan bracket (if necessary), and top case.

Installing 2.5" drives:

The drive cage can hold two 2.5" drives. Drives of 7.5mm, 9mm, or 15mm are supported. Airflow will decrease below recommended levels with drives larger than 15mm.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install 2.5" drives:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

2.5" SATA drive cage cover

  1. Remove the plastic ring from the top crossbar and slide out four screws for each drive being installed.

2.5" SATA drive screws on top crossbar

  1. Insert two screws into each side of the 2.5" drive, then slide the drive into the drive cage, aligning the rubber mounts on the screws around the metal of the drive cage.
    • The larger portion of the SATA connector (the power section) should be at the top, while the smaller portion (the data section) should be at the bottom.
  2. If the optional SATA backplane is not present, connect the SATA data and power cables from the back of the drive cage.
    • A cutout in the chassis allows easy access to the back of the drive cage.

Replacing the bottom case fan:

The 140mm bottom case fan (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM) is preinstalled, but can be replaced if it becomes defective. The fan can also be removed to clean its dust filter.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Remove the top case.
    • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the fan easier.
  2. If the system is already assembled, unplug the fan from the fan splitter board or motherboard.
  3. Set the machine down on its side and unscrew the four fan screws.

Bottom fan screws

  1. When reinstalling the fan, place the dust filter between the fan and the chassis with the shiny side facing the chassis.

Installing side intake fans:

nebula36 supports up to two 120mm side intake fans mounted to the side fan bracket. One 120mm fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) is sold as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

Steps to install the side intake fans:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unpack the fan and rubber mounting pins from the fan box.
    • The plastic rings included with the rubber mounting pins are not needed.

Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm Box

  1. Place the fan in the center of the side fan bracket.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face outward, while the stationary label should face inward.
    • The preinstalled pinholes on the fan will line up with the long holes in the side fan bracket.
  2. From the back (inside of the machine), insert the rubber mounting pins through the pinholes at each corner of the fan.
    • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the rubber mounting pins easier.

Mounted side fan

  1. Plug the side fan into one of the headers on the side fan bracket's fan splitter board. The nearby velcro strap can be used to hold the fan's cable.

Installing the power supply:

The system supports standard ATX power supplies. nebula36 includes a dust filter installed over the power supply's fan vent.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the power supply:

  1. Remove the top case.
    • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the power supply easier.
  2. Place the power supply into the chassis with the fan facing down.
  3. While holding the power supply against the back of the chassis, screw in the four power supply screws.
    • Power supply screws are typically included with the power supply, and are not included with nebula36.

Power supply screw holes

Steps to replace the power supply dust filter:

  1. Remove the top case and remove the power supply.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the dust filter onto the chassis.

Power supply dust filter screws

  1. Remove, clean, and replace the dust filter.

Wiring the front I/O and power button:

nebula36 comes standard with two front daughterboards:

  • The nebula-io_2.2 power button controller.
  • The MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board.

The Nebula Io board can be used to power the system on when the top case is removed.

Both daughterboards can be removed and replaced if necessary. The external power button attached to the top case can also be replaced.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to wire the front I/O and power button:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Refer to the below diagram for powering the machine on or removing and replacing either daughterboard:
    • The front I/O board screws are highlighted in green.
    • The power button controller board screws are highlighted in red.
    • The internal power button is highlighted in cyan.

Front daughterboard screws

  1. Refer to the below diagram for wiring the front I/O and power button (the CPU duct and top crossbar have been removed for easier visibility):
    • The USB Type-C port cable (highlighted green) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.1 header.
    • The audio cable (highlighted yellow) connects to the motherboard's analog audio header.
    • The USB Type-A port cable (highlighted cyan) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.0 header.
    • The Nebula Io PMB1 header (highlighted red) connects to the motherboard's power button header.
    • The Nebula Io PFP1 header (highlighted pink) connects to the power button receptacle.
    • The power button receptacle header (highlighted orange) connects to the Nebula Io board.

Front daughterboard connectors

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

nebula49 (nebula49-1)

nebula49

The System76 nebula49 is a desktop chassis (for DIY builds) with the following specifications:

  • Dimensions
    • Size: 46.2cm × 26.2cm × 40.8cm
    • Volume: 49 litres
  • Motherboard sizes
    • Extended ATX (up to 10.7")
    • ATX
    • Mini-DTX
    • DTX
    • Mini-ITX
  • GPU compatibility
    • Internal clearance: 396.50mm
    • Recommended maximum length: 386.50mm
  • Cooling capacity
    • 2x 120mm CPU fans
      • Rear exhaust fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
      • CPU cooler (optional add-on): Noctua NH-U12S
        • Fan included with add-on: Noctua NF-F12 PWM
    • 1x 140mm bottom intake fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-14025-HF-PWM
    • 2x 120mm side intake fans
      • Optional add-on: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
  • Daughterboards
    • Nebula Io power button controller board
    • MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board
    • Thelio Io SATA 2.5" drive backplane (optional add-on)

nebula49 (External Overview)

Front/back overview:

Front & Back Views

Left/right side overview:

Left & Right Side Views

Top/bottom overview:

Top & Bottom Views

nebula49 (Parts & Assembly)

The nebula49 chassis is ready to be outfitted with standard personal computer components. If the system has already been built, ensure the system is powered off and all cables are unplugged from the motherboard, PCIe cards, power supply, and front I/O before opening the chassis.

The preinstalled velcro strips are left partially unwrapped to aid in removal. When building the system, you can optionally wrap the velcro up the rest of the way.

Replacing the front accent strip:

nebula49 includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

  • Tools required: None

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

  1. Place the nebula49 on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
    • The nebula49 can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
  2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
    • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
  3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
  4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Front accent strip removal

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the side fan bracket:

The side fan bracket provides a mounting point to help keep installed GPUs (or other PCI Express cards) in place while transporting the system. It can also be used to mount up to two extra intake fans (two BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM fans are optional when purchasing the chassis.)

Side fan bracket

The fan splitter on the side fan bracket is intended for fans mounted on the side fan bracket, and should not be used for the CPU duct fans or the bottom intake fan.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the side fan bracket:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side fan bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

Side fan bracket screws

  1. Pull the side fan bracket out of the chassis.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct supports one or more of the CPU fans and guides airflow from the side of the case through the CPU radiator to the back exhaust vent. The CPU duct is custom-designed to work with the Noctua NH-U12S CPU cooler that's included with nebula49.

CPU duct

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two side screws holding the CPU duct onto the top crossbar.

CPU duct top crossbar screws

  1. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct onto the chassis.
    • Hold onto the duct while removing the final screw so it doesn't fall.

CPU duct back screws

  1. Pull the CPU duct out of the chassis.
  2. When replacing the CPU duct, ensure all fan cables are plugged into one of the fan splitter boards in the top right of the chassis.

Unpacking the included accessories:

nebula49 includes the following components preinstalled:

  • 1x nebula_io power button controller board
  • 1x MYS7523 top I/O board
  • 3x Four-pin fan splitter boards
  • 1x Back CPU duct fan
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)
  • 1x Bottom case fan
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 140mm (BQ SIW4-14025-HF-PWM)
  • 4x Short velcro straps
    • 2x on the side of the chassis
    • 1x on the bottom of the chassis
    • 1x on the side fan bracket

In addition, nebula49 ships with the following non-installed accessories:

  • 1x Screw and velcro box
    • 20x Short velcro straps
    • 1x Long velcro strap
    • 9x Motherboard standoffs
    • 9x M3 (motherboard) screws
    • 4x Fan screws
  • 1x CPU cooler w/ fan (optional)
    • Noctua NH-U12S w/ NF-F12 PWM fan
  • 2x side bracket fans (optional)
    • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)

Steps to unpack the included accessories:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side fan bracket, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Cut the zip ties holding the accessory boxes in place.
    • The image below highlights where the zip ties are joined; they can be cut anywhere, but must be cut between a joint and the chassis in order to be removed.

Accessory box zip ties

  1. Remove the accessory boxes from the chassis.

Installing the motherboard:

nebula49 supports the following standard motherboard sizes:

  • Extended ATX (up to 10.7")
  • ATX
  • Mini-DTX
  • DTX
  • Mini-ITX

Nine standoffs and motherboard screws are included.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the motherboard:

  1. If they are installed, remove the top case, remove the CPU duct and remove the side fan bracket.
  2. Locate the standoffs and M3 screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

Standoffs and M3 screws

  1. Insert the standoffs into the appropriate holes for your motherboard size. In the photo below, the standoff holes are labeled by color:
    • Mini-ITX and Mini-DTX: green
    • DTX: green and cyan
    • ATX and EATX: green, cyan, and red (all holes)

Standoff holes

  1. Install the motherboard's I/O shield onto the back of the chassis by pressing it into place from the inside.
  2. Place the motherboard into the chassis, aligning the motherboard's screw holes with the installed standoffs.
  3. Screw the motherboard into the standoffs using the M3 screws.

Installing the CPU duct fans:

nebula49 ships with one 120mm fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) installed in the back of the CPU duct. If you install a CPU cooler with its own fan, such as the optional Noctua NH-U12S cooler sold with nebula49 (which includes a Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan), then the CPU cooler's fan can be mounted in the front of the CPU duct.

These instructions use the Noctua NH-U12S as an example.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the CPU cooler fan (front):

  1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
  2. Remove the fan screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

Fan screws

  1. Remove the NH-U12S from the box.

Noctua NH-U12S unboxing

  1. Remove the included NF-F12 fan from the cooler heatsink by pulling the metal tabs (highlighted green above) off of the heatsink and fan.
  2. Install the cooler onto the motherboard/processor.
  3. Remove the front fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted green below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

CPU duct front fan bracket

  1. Place the spinning side of the fan down and the stationary cover up, then orient the fan so the wire points towards the bottom left.
  2. Place the fan bracket over the fan so the thinnest side (without the 90-degree flange) is on the right.
  3. Screw in the four fan screws.
    • It may take some force to thread the fan screws into the fan's plastic frame.

CPU duct fan installation

  1. Place the CPU duct fan and bracket into the CPU duct, with the thinnest side of the bracket (without the 90-degree flange) pointed into the duct.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face the front of the chassis, while the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis.
  2. Replace the screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU duct.
    • By default, the bracket is screwed as far back in the chassis (as farthest away from the L-shaped bend in the duct) as possible.

Steps to replace the preinstalled CPU duct fan (back):

  1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
  2. Remove the back fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted yellow below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

CPU duct back fan bracket

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws holding the fan onto the bracket.

CPU duct rear exhaust fan

  1. When reinstalling the fan, the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis, and the wire should face the upper interior corner of the CPU duct. The thinnest side of the bracket (without the 90-degree flange) should face directly into the duct.
    • The wire can be run along the top of the fan until it meets the velcro strap.

Installing the GPU:

nebula49 supports GPUs up to 396.50mm long. For optimal cooling and ease of installation, GPUs longer than 386.50mm are not recommended.

These instructions also apply to other PCI Express cards, such as add-in sound cards or networking cards.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the GPU:

  1. If not already installed, install the motherboard.
  2. Unscrew the two screws holding the PCIe bracket onto the chassis, then remove the bracket.

PCIe Bracket

  1. Remove a PCIe slot cover for each slot the new GPU will take up.
    • Additional slot covers may fall off after removing the PCIe brakcet; hold them up when replacing the bracket.
  2. Install the GPU into the motherboard.
  3. Replace the PCIe bracket, which will hold the end of the GPU in place.

Installing the SATA backplane:

Each 2.5" drive cage in nebula49 is designed to work with an optional SATA backplane to allow for easy hot-swapping of 2.5" storage drives. The SATA backplane can be seen below.

2.5" SATA backplane

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the SATA backplane:

Repeat the steps for each drive cage you're installing a SATA backplane into.

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

2.5" SATA drive cage covers

  1. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage.

2.5" SATA drive cages

  1. If the SATA backplane's screw holes are covered by a translucent film, remove the film.
  2. Place the SATA backplane into the drive cage.
    • The backplane should be oriented so the power plug will be at the top of the board after installing the drive cage back into the chassis.
  3. Screw the backplane into the drive cage from the outside.

2.5" SATA backplane screws

  1. Screw the drive cage back onto the chassis.
  2. Connect the POWER0 header on the back of the SATA backplane to the power supply, and the DATA0 and DATA1 ports to two of the motherboard's SATA ports.
    • The POWER0 header uses a four-pin Berg connector, also known as a floppy drive power connector.

2.5" SATA backplane headers

  1. Install any 2.5" SATA drives and replace the drive cage cover, side fan bracket (if necessary), and top case.

Installing 2.5" drives:

nebula49 has two drive cages, which can each hold two 2.5" drives (for a total of four drives.) Drives of 7.5mm, 9mm, or 15mm are supported. Airflow will decrease below recommended levels with drives larger than 15mm.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install 2.5" drives:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

2.5" SATA drive cage cover

  1. Remove the plastic ring from the top crossbar and slide out four screws for each drive being installed.

2.5" SATA drive screws on top crossbar

  1. Insert two screws into each side of the 2.5" drive, then slide the drive into the drive cage, aligning the rubber mounts on the screws around the metal of the drive cage.
    • The larger portion of the SATA connector (the power section) should be at the top, while the smaller portion (the data section) should be at the bottom.
  2. If the optional SATA backplane is not present, connect the SATA data and power cables from the back of the drive cage.
    • A cutout in the chassis allows easy access to the back of the drive cage.

Replacing the bottom case fan:

The 140mm bottom case fan (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM) is preinstalled, but can be replaced if it becomes defective. The fan can also be removed to clean its dust filter.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Remove the top case.
    • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the fan easier.
  2. If the system is already assembled, unplug the fan from the fan splitter board or motherboard.
  3. Set the machine down on its side and unscrew the four fan screws.

Bottom fan screws

  1. When reinstalling the fan, place the dust filter between the fan and the chassis with the shiny side facing the chassis.

Installing side intake fans:

nebula49 supports up to two 120mm side intake fans mounted to the side fan bracket. Two 120mm fans (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) are sold as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

Steps to install the side intake fans:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Unpack the fan and rubber mounting pins from the fan box.
    • The plastic rings included with the rubber mounting pins are not needed.

Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm Box

  1. Place the fan in the desired position along the side fan bracket.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face outward, while the stationary label should face inward.
    • The preinstalled pinholes on the fan will line up with the long holes in the side fan bracket.
  2. From the back (inside of the machine), insert the rubber mounting pins through the pinholes at each corner of the fan.
    • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the rubber mounting pins easier.

Mounted side fan

  1. Plug the side fan into one of the headers on the side fan bracket's fan splitter board. The nearby velcro strap can be used to hold the fan's cable.
  2. Repeat the steps for a second fan, if desired.

Installing the power supply:

The system supports standard ATX power supplies. nebula49 includes a dust filter installed over the power supply's fan vent.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the power supply:

  1. Remove the top case.
    • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the power supply easier.
  2. Place the power supply into the chassis with the fan facing down.
  3. While holding the power supply against the back of the chassis, screw in the four power supply screws.
    • Power supply screws are typically included with the power supply, and are not included with nebula49.

Power supply screw holes

Steps to replace the power supply dust filter:

  1. Remove the top case and remove the power supply.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the dust filter onto the chassis.

Power supply dust filter screws

  1. Remove, clean, and replace the dust filter.

Wiring the front I/O and power button:

nebula49 comes standard with two front daughterboards:

  • The nebula-io_2.2 power button controller.
  • The MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board.

The Nebula Io board can be used to power the system on when the top case is removed.

Both daughterboards can be removed and replaced if necessary. The external power button attached to the top case can also be replaced.

  • Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to wire the front I/O and power button:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Refer to the below diagram for powering the machine on or removing and replacing either daughterboard:
    • The front I/O board screws are highlighted in green.
    • The power button controller board screws are highlighted in red.
    • The internal power button is highlighted in cyan.

Front daughterboard screws

  1. Refer to the below diagram for wiring the front I/O and power button (the CPU duct and top crossbar have been removed for easier visibility):
    • The USB Type-C port cable (highlighted green) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.1 header.
    • The audio cable (highlighted yellow) connects to the motherboard's analog audio header.
    • The USB Type-A port cable (highlighted cyan) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.0 header.
    • The Nebula Io PMB1 header (highlighted red) connects to the motherboard's power button header.
    • The Nebula Io PFP1 header (highlighted pink) connects to the power button receptacle.
    • The power button receptacle header (highlighted orange) connects to the Nebula Io board.

Front daughterboard connectors

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Oryx Pro (oryp12)

Oryx Pro

The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • Chipset
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • Dedicated GPU options:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
        • TGP: 115W (140W boost)
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
        • TGP: 115W (140W boost)
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050
        • TGP: 115W (140W boost)
    • Integrated GPU:
      • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • eDP display options:
      • 16" 1920x1200@165Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: BOE NV160WUM-NX2 (or equivalent)
          • Brightness: 500 nits (cd/m²)
          • sRGB color coverage: 100%
    • External video output:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
  • Networking
    • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX210/AX211
  • Power
    • 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1231-26
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • 73Wh 4-cell battery
      • Model number: NV40BAT-4-73
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 35.95cm x 27.3cm x 1.99cm, 2.7kg

Oryx Pro (External Overview)

Left side:

Left Ports

Right side:

Right Ports

Front side:

Front Ports

Back side:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Lid:

Lid

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Aluminum6-39-PE601-023-1
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic6-39-PE601-013
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic6-78-PE6S2-012
Bottom panelAluminum6-39-PE603-014-1

LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle microphone mute
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
Fn-/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
Fn--Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
Fn-+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Oryx Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
    • Webcam/microphone connector is underneath the heatsink
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in orange
    • LCD panel connector is underneath the heatsink
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in cyan
  • RAM is highlighted in dark green
  • BIOS flash chip (U63) is highlighted in black
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Wireless card is highlighted in purple
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
  • Battery connector is highlighted in red
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
    • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
    • CMOS battery is underneath SSD slot 2 (closest to the main battery)

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Left I/O ribbon is highlighted in red
  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in green

Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Part numbers:

  • Bottom panel: 6-39-PE603-014-1

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Oryx Pro 12 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM removal

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 only. The slots are backwards-compatible with PCIe NVMe Generation 3 drives, but the slots do not support SATA.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. If you are using a slot for the first time, you can optionally remove the plastic backing from the thermal strip and apply it to the inner side of the bottom panel.

M.2 slot thermal strip application

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Part numbers:

  • The battery's model number is NV40BAT-4-73, and the original part number is 6-87-NV4RS-71M00.
    • Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number.
    • You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the five silver battery screws along the perimeter of the battery.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
  2. Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
  3. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
  4. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Oryx Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Part numbers:

  • The standard wireless card is an Intel AX211NGW.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. Keeping the wireless card parallel with the motherboard, slide the card out of the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Part numbers:

  • The CMOS battery is a standard 3V KTS CR2032W battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and, if installed, remove the SSD from slot 2 (closest to the main battery).

CMOS battery

  1. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD in slot 2 (if necessary).
  4. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Oryx Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Oryx Pro 12 uses two fans and a heatsink manufactured as a single assembly. If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler. It's recommended to replace the thermal paste whenever the heatsink is removed.

Part numbers:

  • Heatsink/fan assembly: YINGFAN 6-31-PE6SN-102
  • Individual fans (may not be available separately):
    • Left fan: WINMA ECG-82090S2-0AH
    • Right fan: WINMA ECG-85090S1-0AH

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 40 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
  3. Remove the heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped and stickered numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
    • The black screws are held captive and will not fully come away from the heatsink. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive.
    • Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the two fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted red above).
  2. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU chips, GPU chip, and surrounding components, as well as the corresponding points on the heat sink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
    • Some thermal paste may already be on the motherboard around the VRAM chips, or may get onto the motherboard while cleaning the paste off of the chips. Thermal paste is typically not conductive; it's safer to leave excess paste on the board than to risk damaging the board with rough removal.

Thermal paste removal

  1. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto both CPU chips, the GPU chip, the four Samsung VRAM chips, and the seven R15 chips forming an "L" shape around the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the silver heatsink and fan screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
  3. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Part numbers:

  • Left speaker: 6-23-5PE60-0L1
  • Right speaker: 6-23-5PE60-0R1

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the speakers:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Speaker screws and connectors

  1. Unscrew the speaker screws and lift the speaker out of the machine.
    • The right speaker has three screws; the left speaker has two screws.
    • The speaker wire may be partially routed through channels in the chassis; be careful when removing it.
  2. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Part numbers:

  • Keyboard: 6-PE60SNE-G-KB-MCL-US
    • Keyboards shipped by System76 include a custom-printed Super key.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Pangolin (pang14)

Pangolin

The System76 Pangolin is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
    • Winbond W25R256JW flash chip
      • WSON-8 form factor
    • Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
  • EC
    • ITE IT5571
      • Programmed with non-open EC firmware
  • Graphics
    • GPU: AMD Radeon 780M
    • eDP display: 16.1" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: Innolux N161HCA-EA3 (or equivalent)
    • External video output:
      • 1x HDMI 2.0
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
  • Networking
  • Power
    • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: ShenZhen SOY-1900474
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13
    • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
    • 70Wh 3-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: 628467-3S1P
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI audio
  • Storage
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
      • Does not support Thunderbolt
    • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 1.80cm x 37.06cm x 24.79cm, 1.79kg

Pangolin (External Overview)

Left side:

Left Ports

Right side:

Right Ports

Front side:

Front Ports

Back side:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Lid:

Lid

Materials

PartMaterial
LCD back cover (lid)Magnesium Alloy
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Magnesium Alloy
Bottom panelMagnesium Alloy

LED indicators:

IconStateDescription
Charging LEDOnCharging
OffFully charged
Webcam LEDOnWebcam disabled (privacy mode on)
OffWebcam enabled (privaacy mode off)
Storage LEDOnPowered on
PulsingSuspended
OffPowered off

Keyboard shortcuts

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Mute
Fn-F2Fn+F2Volume down
Fn-F3Fn+F3Volume up
Fn-F6Fn+F6Toggle trackpad
Fn-F7Fn+F7Cycle keyboard brightness
Fn-F9Fn+F9Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle displays
Fn-F11Fn+F11Screen brightness down
Fn-F12Fn+F12Screen brightness up

Pangolin (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • Wireless card is highlighted in dark blue
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in red*
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in purple
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
  • BIOS flash chip (U4) is highlighted in black
  • Speaker connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white*
  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in light green*
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in pink*

* Marked connectors are protected by black tape by default.

Pangolin (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Pangolin can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 connections and M.2 size 2280.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 3 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Unscrew the M.2 access door screw.

M.2 access door

  1. Pull the M.2 access door off, starting from the top (larger side).
    • A flat, plastic tool can be used to pry the edge of the door up.
    • If the door is difficult to remove, the M.2 drives can alternatively be accessed by removing the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
    • If a slot is being used for the first time, the spare thermal pad (which is included in the Pangolin's box) can be applied to the silver backplate before placing the drive down on top of it. M.2 thermal pads
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Part numbers:

  • The bottom panel's part number is NM16ARB-D.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 11 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Lift the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Part numbers:

  • The battery's model number is 628467-3S1P, and the original part number is 3ICP7/85/67.
    • Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number.
    • You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the four battery screws, highlighted green below.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted cyan above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Pangolin's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Part numbers:

  • The standard wireless card is a Mediatek MT7921K.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear and/or black tape that is securing the wires and card.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Part numbers:

  • The CMOS battery is a standard 3V EVE CR2032 battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

CMOS battery

  1. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, carefully peel it away from the adhesive holding it to the chassis.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Pangolin 14 has a fan and heatsink assembly to cool the CPU. The fans and heatsink are held together with adhesive; it is possible to replace the fans individually, but removing the entire assembly is recommended to perform service.

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment.

Part numbers:

  • The heatsink's part number is 01.WW7.NM16ACPD002.
  • The left fan's part number is 01.SS9.NM16ACPD000, and its model number is B7007ASHNF2101TN.
  • The right fan's part number is 01.SS9.NM16ACPD001, and its model number is B7007ASHSF2101TN.
  • The complete fan/heatsink assembly is also known as NM16AC-AC928-PEAK.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove any black tape that may be covering the fan screws and wires.
  3. Remove the six fan screws, highlighted green below.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the fan connectors, highlighted cyan above.
  2. Unscrew the three heatsink screws, highlighted red above.
    • The heatsink screws are held captive and will not come out of the heatsink.
  3. Remove the fan and heatsink assembly from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
    • The fans are held onto the heatsink with adhesive strips on both the top and bottom; if they come loose, place them back into position between the strips before reinstalling the fan/heatsink assembly.
  4. Using a paper towel, remove the existing silver thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
    • The pink thermal pads do not need to be removed.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Tighten the three heatsink screws.
  3. Replace the fan screws, stick the adhesive sheet back on, and plug in the fan connectors.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers. The speakers are a connected set, and must be replaced together.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the speakers:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Disconnect the left speaker (on the right side when the machine is upside-down) from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Speaker wires and posts

  1. Pull both speakers up and off of the plastic posts.
  2. Remove any tape necessary to free the wire between the left and right speakers.
  3. Slide the new speakers onto the plastic posts, run the wire between the speakers through the channels in the chassis, and connect the left speaker to the motherboard.

Serval WS (serw13)

Serval WS

The System76 Serval WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • Chipset
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
    • eDP display:
      • 15.6" 1920x1080@165Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY8 (or equivalent)
      • 17.3" 3840x2160@144Hz
        • LCD panel: AUO B173ZAN03.0 (or equivalent)
      • 17.3" 2560x1440@240Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: BOE NE173QHM-NZ1 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
  • Networking
    • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX211
  • Power
    • 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
      • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-280P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13
    • 80Wh 6-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • 15" model number: PD50BAT-6-80
      • 17" model number: PD70BAT-6-80
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Combined microphone & S/PDIF 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 2x PCIe NVMe Gen 4
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C.
      • Supports USB-PD (charging) up to 100W when the system is powered off or suspended.
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
      • Partially supports DisplayPort over USB-C.
        • Display output is unreliable with some display brands;
          usage of the Thunderbolt port is recommended instead.
    • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 15": 2.49cm x 35.8cm x 24.0cm, 2.4kg
    • 17": 2.49cm x 39.6cm x 26.2cm, 2.8kg

Serval WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Materials:

PartMaterial
LCD back cover (lid)Aluminum
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic
Bottom panelAluminum

LED indicators

The Serval WS has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Serval WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
Fn-/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
Fn--Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
Fn-+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Serval WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
  • RAM is highlighted in maroon
  • BIOS flash chip (U46) is highlighted in black
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
    • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
    • Right speaker connector (on the left) is under the outermost SSD
  • CMOS battery connector (under the outermost SSD) is highlighted in purple
  • Wireless card (under the innermost SSD) is highlighted in blue
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in red

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in green
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
  • Front LED connector is highlighted in cyan

Serval WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Serval WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 15 bottom panel screws.
    • All screws are the same length on any given unit. However, the 17" model uses longer screws than the 15" model.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model and part numbers for the Serval WS 13's battery are dependent on the screen size:

  • For the 15" model, the battery model is PD50BAT-6-80 and the original part number is 6-87-PD50S-82B01.
  • For the 17" model, the battery model is PC70BAT-6-80 and the original part number is 6-87-PD70S-82B01.

Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the three silver battery screws along the bottom of the battery.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the white connector (highlighted cyan above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
  2. Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
  3. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
  4. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver; tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
    • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
    • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
      • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
    • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

Keyboard adhesive & push point

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
  7. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  8. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  9. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
  10. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the RAM:

The Serval WS 13 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM removal

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Serval WS 13 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
    • The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
    • Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the white fan connectors from the motherboard.
  2. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
  3. Plug the white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Serval WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. If there is an M.2 SSD in the slot closest to the battery, follow the steps above to remove the M.2 SSD.
    • The other SSD can optionally be removed to make working with the wireless card easier.
  3. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. Slide the card out of the M.2 slot, parallel with the motherboard.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
  7. Replace the M.2 SSD, bottom cover, and battery.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the comptuer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, unplug the main battery, and remove the outermost SSD.
  2. Remove the innermost SSD and remove the wireless card, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
    • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then this step is optional.

CMOS battery

  1. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
  2. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery.
  4. Replace the SSDs and wireless card (if necessary) and the bottom panel.
  5. Power up the Serval WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the left speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Left speaker wire and screws

  1. Unscrew the two speaker screws, free the speaker wire from the channels in the chassis, and remove the speaker.
  2. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
  3. Replace the bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the outermost SSD.
  2. Peel back any clear tape hanging onto the speaker from the wireless card.
  3. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Right speaker wire and screws

  1. Unscrew the three speaker screws and remove the speaker.
  2. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard.
  3. Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Thelio (thelio-r3-n1)

Thelio

The System76 Thelio is a desktop with the following specifications:

  • Processor options
  • Motherboard
  • Daughterboard
  • Graphics options
    • One GPU (PCIe 4.0 x16) of up to two-slot height
    • GPU size:
      • Internal clearance: 278.175mm
      • Recommended maximum length: 268.175mm
    • Tested with the following GPUs:
  • Expansion
    • 1x PCIe 4.0 x16 (GPU slot)
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
    • Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
  • Networking
  • Power
  • Sound
    • Back: 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
    • Front: 3.5mm line out, microphone jacks
    • Up to 7.1-channel audio output
    • Realtek ALC4080 audio chipset
    • HDMI, DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
  • Storage
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
    • 2x 2.5" SATA
  • USB
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
      • Back port
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
      • Top port
    • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
      • Back ports
    • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
      • 2x back ports, 1x top port
  • Dimensions
    • 32.7cm × 20.7cm × 29.1cm

Thelio (External Overview)

Back overview:

Back Ports

Power Switch Guide:

  • 1: On
  • 0: Off

Other notes:

  • The Flash BIOS button is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of the Flash BIOS button is not recommended.

Front/side overview:

Front & Side Views

Top/bottom overview:

Top & Bottom Views

Thelio (Internal Overview)

Left side overview:

Chassis components:

Internal overview (left side)

  • CPU duct is highlighted in red
  • Side brace is highlighted in green

Electronic components:

Internal overview (left side)

  • CPU heatsink is highlighted in yellow
  • RAM slots are highlighted in green
  • M.2 slot 1 heatsink is highlighted in cyan
  • GPU slot (PCIe 4.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in red
  • Power supply is highlighted in pink
  • Bottom case fan is highlighted in orange
  • Thelio Io daughterboard is highlighted in white

Right side overview:

Internal overview (right side)

  • M.2 slot 2 is highlighted in cyan
  • CPU fan Y-cable connector is highlighted in yellow

Front side overview:

Internal overview (front side)

  • Internal power button (on the Thelio Io board) is highlighted in green

Top overview:

Internal overview (top)

  • 2.5" drive screws are highlighted in green
  • 2.5" drive cage cover is highlighted in cyan
  • Top I/O board is highlighted in white
    • Connects to motherboard
  • Motherboard CPU fan header is highlighted in yellow
    • Connects to Thelio-IO board
  • CPU power connector is highlighted in red
    • Connects to power supply
  • CPU fan splitter is highlighted in pink
    • Connects to Thelio Io board and CPU fans
  • Power button receptacle is highlighted in orange

Thelio (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Thelio can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the R3-N1 revision, which indicates:

  • R3: The third AMD motherboard used in Thelio (base size).
  • N1: Based on the first revision of the nebula19 chassis.

Minor case details may vary based on the production date of the unit, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details should remain the same unless otherwise noted.

Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Replacing the front accent strip:

Thelio includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 30 seconds
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

  1. Place the Thelio on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
    • The Thelio can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
  2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
    • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
  3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
  4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Front accent strip removal

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:

Thelio R3-N1 supports up to two 2.5" SATA III drives.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover, highlighted green below.

2.5" drive cover and 2.5" drive screws

  1. If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).
  2. Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
  3. Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.

2.5" drive installation

Installed 2.5" drive

Thelio R3-N1 with one 2.5" screw ring removed and one 2.5" drive installed.

  1. Replace the black plastic screw ring and the 2.5" drive bay cover.

Removing the side brace:

The side brace provides a mounting point for the GPU brace finger, which helps keep GPUs or other PCI Express cards in place during shipping. It also provides mounting points for one 120mm fan, which is not offered as part of Thelio but can optionally be installed as an aftermarket upgrade.

The GPU brace finger is only required during shipping. The system can be run without this part if it does not fit an upgraded GPU.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the side brace:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

Side brace screws

  1. Pull the side brace out of the chassis. Unplug the side fan connector from the splitter board on the right side, if connected.

Steps to adjust the GPU brace finger:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the side brace.
  2. To adjust the GPU brace finger's horizontal position, unscrew the four corner screws (highlighted green below), move the GPU brace finger's mounting bar, and reattach it in the desired position.
    • The center vertical adjustment screw (highlighted cyan below) may also need to be removed or loosened.

GPU brace finger screws, back

  1. To adjust the GPU brace finger's vertical position, unscrew the eight vertical adjustment screws (four on either side), move the GPU brace finger, and reattach it in the desired position.
    • There may be one or two rows of screw holes on the mounting bar, depending on what GPU your system originally shipped with. The additional row of screw holes allows front-to-back adjustment of the GPU brace fingers' position.

GPU brace finger screws, side

Replacing the bottom case fan:

Thelio R3-N1 has one case-mounted 140mm intake fan on the bottom of the chassis.

Part numbers:

  • The bottom case fan is a Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 (BQ SIW4-14025-MF-PWM).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
    • The side brace can optionally be removed to provide easier access to the fan and its cabling. In the below photos, the GPU has also been removed for greater visibility.
  2. Unplug the fan's cable from the Thelio Io daughterboard.
    • The bottom case fan plugs into the FANOUT2 port, also known as the INTAKE FAN port, on the Thelio Io board.
    • When viewed from interior of the chassis, this connector is on the bottom-left.

Bottom case fan connector

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
    • To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.

Bottom case fan screws

  1. Remove the old fan from the case.
  2. When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan
  3. The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-interior corner of the case. The cable is not routed through any case holes or Velcro loops by default. The cable runs back towards the power supply, then folds over and runs to the front of the case to the Thelio Io board.

Replacing the GPU:

Thelio supports one dual-slot dedicated GPU. The GPU slot is a PCIe 4.0 x16 slot.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the side brace.
  2. If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.

GPU power connections

  1. Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket.
    • The bracket must be completely removed because simply sliding it over doesn't provide enough clearance for GPU installation/removal.

PCIe bracket screws

  1. Push and hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.

PCIe slot & latch

  1. After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cable.
  2. Once the GPU is installed, replace the back PCIe bracket, side brace, and top case.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots and top GPU.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unplug both CPU fan connectors from the splitter board in the top corner of the machine.
    • The splitter board provides the same signal to both ports, so it doesn't matter which fan is plugged into which port.

CPU fan connectors

  1. Unscrew the four back thumbscrews and two top crossbar screws holding the CPU duct in place.

CPU duct screws (back)

CPU duct screws (top)

  1. Pull the CPU duct away from the machine.

Replacing the RAM:

Thelio R3-N1 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR5 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of up to 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
    • The side brace does not need to be removed, but it's been removed in the below photo for better visibility.
  2. To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top latch up away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the top edge. (The bottom of the RAM slot does not move.)

RAM slots

  1. Make sure the tab on the top of the slot is open (pulled upwards), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot, starting with the bottom edge.
    • The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
    • If you are only using one RAM stick, place it in the right-side slot (farthest from the CPU.)
  2. Replace the top case.

Replacing the M.2 drives:

Thelio R3-N1 has two M.2 slots (M key). Both slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the M.2 drive (slot 1):

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side brace, remove the GPU, and remove the CPU duct.
    • Removing the CPU duct and GPU is optional but recommended to provide more working space and avoid damage.
  2. Unscrew and remove the M.2 heatsink.
    • It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.
    • The heatsink fan is connected to the motherboard. This connector does not need to be unplugged to access the M.2 slot.

M.2 heatsink screws

  1. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot 1

  1. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  2. Replace the retainer screw.
  3. Replace the M.2 heatsink, CPU duct, GPU, side brace, and top case.
    • When replacing the M.2 heatsink, ensure its fan is plugged into the M.2 fan connector (highlighted cyan above).

Steps to replace the M.2 drive (slot 2):

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot 2

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the CPU fans:

Thelio R3-N1 contains two 92mm CPU fans, both mounted on the CPU duct.

Part numbers:

  • The front fan is a Noctua NF-A9 PWM.
  • The back fan is a Be Quiet! Pure Wings 2 (BQ PUW2-9225-MR-PWM).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CPU fans:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Unscrew the four screws (two on each side) holding the fan bracket onto the duct.
    • In the photos below, the front fan bracket's screws are highligted cyan, and the back fan bracket's screws are highlighted green.

CPU duct fan bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the fan onto the fan bracket.

CPU fan screws

  1. When reinstalling the fan into the CPU duct, the spinning side should face towards the front of the case, and the cable should point towards the top corner of the open side of the duct.
    • Overtightening a fan's screws may cause fan noise; if a fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.

Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:

The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.

Part numbers:

  • The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U9S.
  • The CPU uses an AMD AM5 socket.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side brace, remove the GPU, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler crossbar onto the vertical mounting brackets.
    • The screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the crossbar.
    • Only the two outer screws need to be removed; the center screw holding the horizontal crossbar onto the heatsink does not need to be removed.

CPU cooler screws

  1. The cooler will come away from the CPU.
  2. Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

Steps to replace the CPU:

  1. Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
  2. Unscrew and remove the cooler mounting bracket on the right side of the CPU.
    • The grey plastic spacers over each mounting bracket screw hole do not need to be removed. If they fall off, put them back before reinstalling the mounting bracket.

CPU cooler mounting bracket

  1. Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
    • Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.

CPU locking pin

  1. Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
    • The CPU holder opens in the opposite direction from the locking pin.

CPU holder raised

  1. Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
    • Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.

CPU (removed)

  1. Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
    • When reinstalling the CPU, be sure to match the original orientation, with the triangle on the CPU pointing to the top left of the motherboard.
    • The triangle on the CPU should match the triangle on the top of the CPU cover.
  2. Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.
  3. Reinstall the right-side cooler mounting bracket.

Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:

  1. Draw an X shape of thermal paste onto the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
    • The cooler should be oriented so the hole in the vertical center of the heatsink is facing the right side (front of the case).
    • Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
  2. Set the computer upright, then reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU duct, GPU bracket, and top case.

Replacing the power supply:

The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio.

Part numbers:

  • The PSU is an FSP Dagger Pro 650W (SDA2-650).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the power supply:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side brace, and remove the GPU.
  2. Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
    • Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.

PSU cabling

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.

PSU back screws

  1. Remove/replace the PSU.
    • The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.
    • The PSU will need to be held up to the back of the case while it is screwed in.
  2. After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
    • Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- the 8-pin (6 + 1) connector is to be plugged into the GPU.

Steps to clean the power supply dust filter:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the power supply.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the dust filter onto the chassis.

Power supply dust filter

  1. Remove the dust filter and clean it with compressed air, running water, or a damp cloth.
  2. When the filter is clean and dry, reinstall the filter, then reinstall the power supply and

Replacing the Thelio Io board:

Named after Jupiter's moon Io, the Thelio Io daughterboard handles the front power button and fan control. If the Thelio Io board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.

Part numbers:

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the Thelio Io board:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.
    • The POWER INPUT/POWER1 connector requires pulling the white tab while unplugging.

Thelio Io board location

  1. Unscrew the two screws holding the daughterboard on from the front of the chassis.
    • The plastic spacer behind the left screw will come off when the screw is removed. Hold it in place when screwing in the new board.

Thelio Io screws

  1. Screw in the new Thelio Io board and reconnect the wiring.

Thelio Io wiring guide:

Thelio Io wiring guide

  1. When wiring the Thelio Io board, refer to the port labels and the following guide.

    • FANOUT1/CPU FAN - to the CPU fan splitter.
    • FANOUT4/AUX FAN - not connected.
    • FANOUT2/INTAKE FAN - to the bottom case fan.
    • FANOUT3/GPU FAN - to the side brace fan splitter (disconnected by default).
    • FANIN1/MOTHERBOARD FAN INPUT - to the CPU_FAN1 header at the top right of the motherboard, highlighted green below.

    Motherboard CPU output header

    • POWER1/POWER INPUT - to the power supply.
      • The white plastic backing needs to be held away from the connector to unplug this cable from the Thelio Io board.
    • PFP1/FRONT PANEL - to the power button receptacle on the front panel.
      • On the Thelio Io board, the wire color order (from top to bottom) is red, black, blue, black.
      • On the power button receptacle, the wire color order (from left to right) is red, black, blue, black.
    • PMB1/MOTHERBOARD - to the JFP1 header at the bottom left of the motherboard, highlighted cyan below.
      • On the Thelio Io board, the wire color order (from top to bottom) is red, black, blue, black.
      • On the motherboard, the wire color order (from left to right) is red, black, blue, black.
    • USB - to the USB_3_4 header at the bottom left of the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
      • A small clip needs to be held down to unplug this cable from the Thelio Io board.
      • This port can alternatively be connected to the USB_5_6 header if the USB_3_4 header is connected to the wireless card.

    Motherboard power button & USB headers

Replacing the SATA backplane:

The SATA backplane provides two 2.5" SATA data and power connectors for the 2.5" drive cage.

Part numbers:

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the SATA backplane:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, then remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and all 2.5" SATA drives.
  2. Use the cutout on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug the 4-pin Berg power connector and the two SATA data cables from the SATA backplane.

SATA backplane cabling cutout

  1. Unscrew the two outer flat screws holding the top crossbar onto the front of the chassis.

Front crossbar screws

  1. Unscrew the two back screws holding the top crossbar onto the back of the chassis.

Back crossbar screws

  1. Unscrew the two screws holding the CPU duct onto the top crossbar.

CPU duct screws (top)

  1. Lift the top crossbar up and out of the chassis.
  2. Unscrew the four SATA backplane screws from the drive cage, then push the SATA backplane out through the top of the drive cage.

SATA backplane screws

  1. Place the new SATA backplane into the drive cage and secure it with the four SATA backplane screws, then reinstall the drive cage (if necessary).
  2. Plug the 4-pin Berg power connector and SATA data cables into the SATA backplane.
    • The order of the SATA data cables shouldn't matter as long as your operating system and software is configured to address disks by UUID (e.g. /dev/disk/by-id/...) instead of by letter (e.g. /dev/sd_).
    • By default, the DATA1 port connects to the innermost SATA connector on the motherboard, and the DATA0 port connects to the outermost SATA connector on the motherboard.
  3. Reinstall the CPU shroud (if necessary), any 2.5" drives that were removed, the 2.5" drive cage cover, and the top case.

Replacing the top I/O:

Thelio Spark B1-N2 includes a top I/O module providing audio and USB ports. If the top ports are damanged or become defective, they can be replaced using the steps below.

Part numbers:

  • The top I/O module's part number is MYS7523 Rev. 4.0.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the top I/O:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side brace, and remove the GPU.
  2. Unplug the JAUD1 header at the bottom-left corner of the motherboard.

Top I/O audio header

  1. Unplug the JUSB1 header (highlighted cyan below) and JUSB2 header (highlighted green below) along the right edge of the motherboard.
    • The JUSB1 header is behind the CPU duct, but it can be unplugged without removing the duct. The duct has been removed for greater visibility in the below photo.

Top I/O USB headers

  1. Unscrew the two front screws holding the top I/O board onto the chassis.

Top I/O screws

  1. Remove the top I/O board from the system.
  2. Insert the new top I/O board into the system and screw it into place.
  3. Reconnect the audio and USB headers.
  4. Replace the side brace (if necessary), CPU shroud, and top case.

Troubleshooting the power button:

If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:

  1. Check if internal Thelio Io power button and LED work.
  2. Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
  3. Check the wiring for the front power button.
  4. Replace the front power button, if necessary.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
  3. Push the small button labeled POWER on the Thelio-IO board.
    • The white LED below the button lights up to indicate when the system is powered on (and pulses when the system is suspended).

Internal power button

  1. If the Thelio-IO POWER button powers the machine on and the LED lights up, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring.
  2. If the Thelio-IO POWER button and/or LED does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.

Steps to check the front power button wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:

Power button wiring

  1. On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right (when viewed from the back of the computer.)

Power button receptacle

  1. The front power button receptacle should plug into the PFPD port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Thelio Major (thelio-major-r3)

Thelio Major

The System76 Thelio Major is a desktop with the following specifications:

Thelio Major (External Overview)

Back overview:

Back Ports

Power Switch Guide:

  • 1: On
  • 0: Off

Other Notes:

  • The ECO (ECO Mode) switch on the power supply should always be set to ON for an optimal fan curve.
  • The Q-Flash Plus (BIOS Flash) button is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of this button is not recommended.

Front/side overview:

Front & Side Views

Top/bottom overview:

Top & Bottom Views

Thelio Major (Internal Overview)

Left side overview:

Internal overview (left side)

  • CPU cooler & CPU are highlighted in red (located behind the CPU duct)
  • RAM slots are highlighted in green (located behind the CPU duct)
  • 2.5" SATA drive cage (with cover removed) is highlighted in pink
  • M.2 slots are highlighted in white (located underneath the GPU & heatsinks)
  • GPU (in PCIe 5.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in yellow
  • PCIe 4.0 x8 and 3.0 x2 slots are highlighted in navy
  • Power supply is highlighted in cyan
  • Case fans are highlighted in orange

Right side overview:

Internal overview (right side)

  • Thelio-IO access cutout is highlighted in green
  • Power supply access cutout is highlighted in red

Front side overview:

Internal overview (front side)

  • Thelio-IO access cutout is highlighted in green

Top overview:

Internal overview (top)

  • 2.5" drive screws (with retainer ring removed) are highlighted in green
  • CPU power connectors are highlighted in red
    • Connect to power supply
  • Motherboard CPU fan header is highlighted in yellow
    • Connects to Thelio-IO board
  • Power button receptacle is highlighted in cyan
    • Connects to Thelio-IO board

See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.

Thelio Major (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Thelio Major can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the initial revision for this generation (R3-0). Minor case details may vary on newer units, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details should remain the same unless otherwise noted.

Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Replacing the front accent strip:

Thelio Major includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 30 seconds
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

  1. Place the system on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
    • The system can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
  2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
    • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
  3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
  4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Front accent strip removal

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Replacing the GPU:

Thelio Major supports two multi-slot dedicated GPUs:

  • The top GPU slot is a PCIe 5.0 x16 slot.
    • There are four units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
    • This slot shares bandwidth with M.2 slots 2 and 3 (the bottom two M.2 slots); if either of these M.2 slots are populated, then the top GPU slot will operate at x8 bandwidth.
  • The bottom GPU slot is a PCIe 4.0 x4 slot.
    • There are two units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
    • This slot physically fits up to x16 cards, but runs at x4 bandwidth.

Factory configurations only include one GPU.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.) Remove the brace.

GPU brace screws

  1. Unscrew the two back thumbscrews holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket.
    • The empty PCIe slot covers will come loose, and can also be removed.

PCIe bracket screws

  1. If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable (or cables) from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.

GPU power connections

  1. While holding the GPU, push the PCIe latch release button (highlighted red below) and remove it from the slot.
    • If the latch release button doesn't work, you can manually press the PCIe latch (highlighted green) for the corresponding slot using a long, flat object to free the card.

PCIe slot & latch

  1. After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cable.
  2. Once the GPU is installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, and top case.
    • The side GPU brace includes screws to adjust for the height and length of the graphics cards.
    • The chassis includes multiple sets of screw holes for the side GPU brace to accomodate minor adjustments in graphics card depth; the brace will ship with either short or long GPU fingers (short fingers pictured below), depending on the GPU that was ordered with the machine.

GPU brace screws

The GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPU.

Replacing the case fans:

Thelio Major R3 has two case-mounted intake fans:

  • A 140mm fan on the bottom of the chassis.
  • A 92mm fan on the right side of the chassis.

The fans connect to the Thelio-IO board using a Y splitter cable mounted on the inner corner of the case.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
    • The GPU brace can optionally be removed for easier access to the fans and cables.
  2. Release the velcro strap and unplug the fan's cable from the Y splitter cable.
    • The bottom case fan's cable is round with a mesh net covering.

Chassis fan connectors

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
    • To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.

Bottom case fan screws

  1. Remove the old fan from the case.
  2. When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan
  3. The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case.
    • The cable runs along the inner corner of the case, and does not pass through any of the cable management holes.

Steps to replace the side case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
    • The GPU brace can optionally be removed for easier access to the fans and cables.
  2. Release the velcro strap and unplug the fan's cable from the Y splitter cable.
    • The side case fan's cable is flat with four wires.

Chassis fan connectors

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws from the opposite side of the machine.

Side case fan screws

  1. Remove the old fan from the case.
  2. When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan
  3. The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case.
    • The cable runs along the inner corner of the case, and does not pass through any of the cable management holes.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots, top GPU, and spare 2.5" drive screws.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace.
    • The GPU can also optionally be removed to provide more room for working with the components.
  2. Unplug the connectors for the CPU fans from the splitter board on the chassis, next to the top right corner of the motherboard.
    • The splitter board provides the same signal to both ports, so it doesn't matter which fan is plugged into which port.
    • By default, the back fan (long cable) is plugged into the top port (J2), while the front fan (short cable) is plugged into the bottom port (J3).

CPU fan connectors

  1. Unscrew the four back thumbscrews and two crossbar screws holding the CPU duct in place.

CPU duct screws (internal)

CPU duct screws (external)

  1. Pull the CPU duct away from the machine.

Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:

Thelio Major R3 supports up to four 2.5" SATA III drives.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional), flathead screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover, highlighted green below.

2.5" drive cover and 2.5" drive screws

  1. If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).
    • For revisions where the black plastic ring is located over the CPU duct, the ring can be popped out from below using a flathead screwdriver, or by hand after removing the CPU duct.

2.5" drive cover and 2.5" drive screws

  1. Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
  2. Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.

2.5" drive installation

Installed 2.5" drive

Thelio Major R3 with one 2.5" drive installed.

  1. Replace the black plastic screw ring and the 2.5" drive bay cover.

Replacing the RAM:

Thelio Major R3 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR5 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of up to 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
    • Removing the CPU duct is optional, but is recommended to provide easier access to the RAM slots.
  2. To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top and bottom latches away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot.

RAM slots

  1. Make sure the tabs on the top and bottom of the slot are open (pulled away from the slot), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
    • The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
    • Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks: RAM slot order
  2. Replace the top case.

Replacing the M.2 drives:

Thelio Major R3 has four M.2 storage slots. All four slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 5 at x4 bandwidth, sizes 2280 or 25110, and the M key pin arrangement.

M.2 slots 2 and 3 (the bottom two slots) share bandwidth with the PCIe 5.0 x16 slot (the primary GPU slot). If an SSD is installed in M.2 slots 2 or 3, then the PCIe 5.0 x16 slot (the primary GPU slot) will operate at x8 bandwidth. For this reason, M.2 slots 1 and 4 (the top two slots) should be used first.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and the GPU brace and GPU.
  2. Unscrew and remove the M.2 heatsink.
    • Slot 1 is located underneath the single-height heatsink; slots 2, 3, and 4 are located underneath the triple-height heatsink.
    • The heatsink screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the heatsink.
    • It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.

M.2 heatsink screws

  1. For the M.2 drive(s) being removed, push the tab upwards to rotate the circular locking ring; the drive will pop away from the motherboard.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot; while holding the circular locking ring open, push the drive towards the motherboard.
  3. While holding the drive in place, let go of the circular locking ring. The ring will rotate back to the closed position.
  4. Replace the M.2 heatsink, CPU duct, GPU, GPU brace, and top case.
    • If you are populating an SSD slot for the first time, remove any protective plastic that may be covering the thermal tape.

M.2 thermal tape

Replacing the CPU fans:

Thelio Major R3 contains two CPU fans mounted within the CPU duct. The front fan is a Noctua NF-F12, and the back fan is a Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the duct-mounted CPU fans:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. For the fan being replaced, unscrew the four screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU duct.
    • The front fan's screws are highlighted yellow; the back fan's screws are highlighted red.

CPU duct fan bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws attaching the bracket to the fan.

CPU duct fan screws

  1. When reinstalling the fans:
    • The front fan's spinning side should face the bracket's screws; the back fan's stationary cover should face the bracket's screws.
    • The back bracket should face the back of the duct, and the front bracket should face the front of the duct.
    • There are two sets of possible screwholes for each bracket; for each bracket, the frontmost set of screwholes (closest to the bent side of the duct) should be used.
    • Once installed, both fans should have their spinning sides facing the front of the machine and their stationary covers facing the back of the machine.
    • Both cables should be oriented towards the top edge of the motherboard (the top corner of the open side of the duct.)
    • Overtightening the fan bracket's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.

Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:

The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.

The CPU uses an AMD AM5 socket. The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U12S.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPU, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler crossbar onto the vertical mounting brackets.
    • The screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the crossbar.
    • Only the two outer screws need to be removed; the center screw holding the horizontal crossbar onto the heatsink does not need to be removed.

CPU cooler screws

  1. The cooler will come away from the CPU.
  2. Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

Steps to replace the CPU:

  1. Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
  2. Unscrew and remove the cooler mounting bracket on the right side of the CPU.

CPU cooler mounting bracket

  1. Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
    • Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.

CPU locking pin

  1. Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
    • The CPU holder opens in the opposite direction from the locking pin.

CPU holder raised

  1. Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
    • Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.

CPU (removed)

  1. Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
    • The triangle on the CPU should be oriented to match the triangle on the CPU cover, pointing towards the top left of the motherboard.
  2. Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.
  3. Reinstall the right-side cooler mounting bracket.

Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:

  1. Draw an X shape of thermal paste onto the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
    • The cooler should be oriented so the text is readable from the right side (front of the case).
    • Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
  2. Set the computer upright, then reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU duct, GPU, GPU bracket, and top case.

Replacing the power supply:

The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the pre-installed cabling.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the power supply:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and bottom GPU.
  2. Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
    • Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.

PSU cabling

  1. Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket.
    • One screw is located on the opposite side of the case.

PSU bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.

PSU back screws

  1. Remove/replace the PSU.
    • Set the replacement PSU on top of the rubber post that holds it at the correct height.
    • The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.

PSU post

  1. After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
    • Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- two 8-pin (6 + 1) connectors are to be plugged into the GPUs.
  2. If the replacement PSU has an ECO switch, make sure it is switched on for an optimal fan curve.

Replacing the Thelio-IO board:

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If the Thelio-IO board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.

Steps to replace the Thelio-IO board:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and any 2.5" drives that are installed.
  2. Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.
    • The topmost connector requires pulling the white tab while unplugging.

Thelio-IO cabling cutouts

  1. Unscrew the two screws on the top side of the drive cage.

Thelio-IO drive cage screws

  1. While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
  2. Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.

Thelio-IO wiring guide:

Thelio-IO wiring guide

  1. When wiring the Thelio-IO board, refer to the above image and the following guide. The ports are numbered in the suggested connection order based on position and size.
    • 1: POWER0 - to the power supply PERIF port (via 4-pin Molex adapter.)
    • 2: INTAKE0 - to the case fans (via a Y splitter cable).
    • 3: CPUOUT0 - to the splitter board (near the top edge) connecting to both duct-mounted CPU fans.
    • 4: CPUIN0 - to the CPU_FAN header at the top of the motherboard. CPU fan header on motherboard
    • 5: DATA0/1/2/3 - to SATA ports #0/#1/#2/#3 on the motherboard, highlighted green below.
      • The ports are located next to the top GPU slot.
      • These connectors provide data transfer for the 2.5" drive slots. SATA connectors on motherboard
    • 6*: PFP0 - to the power button receptacle on the front panel.
    • 7*: USB0 - to the F_USB1 header on motherboard, highlighted cyan above. USB connector on the motherboard
      • On the Thelio-IO board, the row of four pins plugs in, while the row of five pins hangs off the back and does not plug in.
      • This connector provides fan control and firmware updates.
    • 8*: PMB0 - to the +PLED- and +PW- pins (the four top-left pins of the F_PANEL header) on the motherboard, highlighted red above.
      • On the motherboard, the red wire goes on the inner-left and the blue wire goes on the inner-right. The corresponding black wires go on the outer-left and outer-right.
    • * For all connectors with multi-colored wires plugging into the Thelio-IO board, the red wire goes on the top side (viewing from the front of the computer.)

Troubleshooting the power button:

If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:

  1. Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
  2. Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
  3. Check the wiring for the front power button.
  4. Replace the front power button, if necessary.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
  3. Push the small button labeled B0 on the Thelio-IO board.

Internal power button

  1. If the Thelio-IO B0 button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring.
  2. If the Thelio-IO B0 button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.

Steps to check the front power button wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:

Power button wiring

  1. On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right (when viewed from the back of the computer.)

Power button receptacle

  1. The front power button receptacle should plug into the PFPD port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Thelio Massive (thelio-massive-b1.2)

Thelio Massive

The System76 Thelio Massive is a desktop with the following specifications:

  • CPU options
  • Motherboard
    • ASUS WS C621E SAGE running System76 Firmware (non-open)
    • Intel C621 chipset
  • Daughterboard
  • GPU options
  • Memory
    • Up to 1536GB (12x128GB) six-channel Registered ECC DDR4 DIMMs @ 2933 MHz
    • Up to 768GB (6x128GB) per CPU
  • Networking
    • 2x Gigabit Ethernet (Intel I210-AT)
    • Optional Gigabyte Wireless-AC (a/b/g/n/ac) with Bluetooth
  • Power
    • EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W G2 80+ Gold Certified PSU
    • C19 power cord
  • Sound
    • 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
    • Optical S/PDIF out
    • Up to 7.1-channel audio output
    • Realtek ALC S1220A audio chipset
    • HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe or SATA)
    • 8x 2.5" SATA
    • 4x 2.5" U.2 (NVMe) SAS
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C
    • 1x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 4x USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-A
    • 2x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 49.2cm x 26.2cm x 52.7cm

Thelio Massive (External Overview)

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Audio Port Guide:

  • Green: Line Out / Front Speaker Out
  • Pink: Mic In
  • Light Blue: Line In / Side Speaker Out
  • Orange: Center/Subwoofer Out
  • Black: Rear Speaker Out
  • White (square): S/PDIF Digital Out

Power Switch Guide:

  • 1: On
  • 0: Off

Thelio Massive (Internal Overview)

Side overview:

Internal overview (side)

  • RAM slots are highlighted in green
  • PCIe slots are highlighted in red
  • M.2 SSD is highlighted in cyan
  • Power supply is highlighted in yellow
  • 2.5" drive slots are highlighted in purple
  • Thelio-IO to motherboard connections are highlighted in olive

PCIe slot guide:

From top to bottom:

  1. PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 4)
    • Only available if two CPUs are installed
  2. PCIe Gen 3 x8 slot
    • Only available if two CPUs are installed
  3. PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 1)
    • Runs at x8 if slot 4 (immediately below) is also in use
  4. PCIe Gen 3 x8 slot
  5. PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 2)
  6. PCIe Gen 3 x8 slot
    • Only available if two CPUs are installed
  7. PCIe Gen 3 x16 slot (GPU 3)
    • Only available if two CPUs are installed

See the repairs page for GPU installation instructions, including recommended GPU placement.

Top overview:

Internal overview (top)

  • RAM slot clips are highlighted in green
  • Top exhaust fans are highlighted in yellow
  • SATA ports are highlighted in cyan
  • SAS (U.2) ports are highlighted in purple
  • Power button receptacle is highlighted in red

Thelio Massive (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Thelio Massive can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the inner partition:

The inner partition provides a brace for the outer case and helps hold the internal components in place. The partition needs to be removed to access most internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the inner partition:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the three additional back screws holding the inner partition in place from the back.

Back partition screws

  1. Unscrew the three inner screws holding the partition in place from the side.

Side partition screws

  1. Lift the inner partition away from the case.

Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:

Thelio Massive b1.2 supports up to eight 2.5" SATA III drives and up to four 2.5" U.2 NVMe drives (with SAS connectors.)

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the plastic screw cover onto the inner partition.

Storage drive screw cover

  1. Pop out one of the black plastic rings and slide four screws (per drive) out of the inner partition.

Storage drive screws

  1. Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
  2. Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots above the Thelio-IO boards.

2.5" drive installation

In the below photo, the eight SATA slots are highlighted green, while the four U.2/SAS slots are highlighted blue.

2.5" storage slots

Replacing the case fans:

Thelio Massive b1.2 has four case-mounted fans: two on the bottom, and two on the side next to the motherboard.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Unscrew the fan's screws on the opposite side from where it's mounted. (For the bottom fans, the machine will need to be tilted to access the screws on the bottom.)

Case fan screws

  1. Unplug and remove the fan.
  2. When replacing the fan, the components should be mounted in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan

Replacing a GPU:

Thelio Massive supports up to four dual-slot GPUs with PCIe 3.0 x16. Mixing NVIDIA and AMD GPUs is not recommended.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace a GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Unscrew the four back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, then remove the PCIe bracket.

PCIe bracket screws

  1. If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.

GPU power connections

  1. Hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
    • If removing one of the inner GPUs, it may be necessary to remove one of the outer GPUs first in order to reach the latch.
    • If space is tight, a long object such as a screwdriver can be used to press the latch.

PCIe latches

  1. When installing new GPUs, the slots should be utilized in the following order:
    • Primary GPU: third slot from the top.
    • Secondary GPU: fifth slot from the top.
    • Tertiary GPU: seventh slot from the top (bottom slot).
    • Quaternary GPU: top slot.

GPU slot order

  1. After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cables. The maximum number of power cables are preinstalled in your system, but some may be tied back using velcro if the system shipped with less than four GPUs.
  2. Once all GPUs are installed, replace the back PCIe bracket, inner partition, and top case.
    • The inner partition includes a plastic GPU brace, which may be sized differently depending on how many GPUs your system shipped with. To remove the brace, unscrew it from the inner partition.

GPU brace screws

The plastic GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPUs.

Replacing the M.2 drive:

Thelio Massive has one M.2 slot, which supports either PCIe NVMe Gen 3 x4 or SATA III. The following M.2 sizes are supported: 2242, 2260, 2280, 22110.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the GPUs.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot screw

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. Replace the GPUs, inner partition, and top case.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct guides airflow through the CPU coolers. It covers the CPUs and RAM slots on the motherboard.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Unplug the connectors for the two top exhaust fans. (The top exhaust fans are secured to the CPU duct.)

Top exhaust fans

The connectors (highlighted above) attach the top exhaust fans to extension cables, which attach to a five-port hub along with the CPU fans. It is not necessary to remove the extension cables.

  1. Unscrew the three back screws holding the CPU duct in place.

Back CPU duct screws

  1. Unscrew the three side screws holding the CPU duct in place (on the opposite side from the motherboard.)

Side CPU duct screws

  1. Pull the CPU duct away from the machine.

Note for older revisions: thelio-massive-b1.0 included two additional screws connecting the top crossbar to the CPU duct. The top crossbar is not attached to the CPU duct on this revision.

Top crossbar screws

Replacing the RAM:

Thelio Massive b1.2 supports up to 1536GB (12x128GB) of RAM, or 768GB (6x128GB) per CPU. The RAM sticks are Registered ECC DDR4 DIMMs running at a speed of 2933MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top latch up away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the top edge. (The bottom of the RAM slot does not move.)

RAM slots

  1. Insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot. The RAM stick will only fit in one direction; the larger group of pins goes on top. Use the following guides for placement of the RAM sticks:

    • Single-CPU RAM slot placement: 1-CPU RAM order
    • Dual-CPU RAM slot placement: 2-CPU RAM order
  2. Replace the CPU duct, inner partition, and top case.

Replacing the CPU fans:

Thelio Massive b1.2 contains four CPU fans (two per CPU.) All coolers and fans are preinstalled, regardless of how many CPUs the system shipped with.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CPU fans:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Each fan is secured by two clips (one on each side). Pull the clip down (away from the fan), then sideways (away from the heatsink) to release the fan.

CPU fan clips

  1. Once the fan is free, lift it away from the heatsink and unplug the four-pin connector attaching it to the Y-cable.
    • Two Y-cables connect two CPU fans each to a five-port hub, which also connects to the extension cables for the top exhaust fans.
    • The top exhaust fans plug into ports "FAN1" and "FAN2", while the CPU fans plug into ports "FAN3" and "FAN4". The port labeled "CPU" is left disconnected.

CPU fan hub

  1. If necessary, lift the bracket off of the old fan and place it onto the new fan.
  2. Clip the fan back onto the heatsink and plug it into the Y-cable.

Replacing the CPU cooler:

Thelio Massive b1.2 contains two CPU coolers (one for each CPU.) Each cooler contains two fans. All coolers and fans are preinstalled, regardless of how many CPUs the system shipped with.

Tools required: Hex key (included in Thelio Massive case), cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the CPU cooler:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the CPU duct, and remove the CPU fans for the cooler you are removing.
  2. Locate the hex key/Allen wrench, which is attached to the case via the velcro cable ties behind the motherboard.
  3. While holding the cooler in place so it doesn't fall, loosen the cooler's screws in reverse order, starting with the center screws (labeled #2), then the corner screws (labeled #1).
    • The corner screws require reaching the hex key through the holes in the heatsink.

CPU cooler screws

The CPU cooler screws are held in place by springs, and will not detatch once they are loosened.

  1. Once all four screws are loosened, the CPU cooler (including the CPU) will lift away from the motherboard.
    • Caution: Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
  2. When replacing the CPU cooler, tighten the screws in the order they are labeled, starting with the corner screws (labeled #1), then the center screws (labeled #2).

Replacing the CPU/thermal paste:

The CPUs clip into the heatsinks before the heatsinks are installed onto the motherboard.

Tools required: Hex key (included in Thelio Massive case), cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the CPU/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the CPU duct, remove the CPU fans, and remove the CPU cooler.
  2. The CPU is held onto the heatsink by two plastic clips. Release one of the clips by pulling down on the large plastic tab, then carefully lift the CPU off of the heatsink.
    • Caution: Do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.
    • It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.

CPU clips

  1. Remove the black plastic clip from the heatsink by pulling the tabs on each corner.
  2. Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. Place the black plastic clip back onto the heatsink and apply thermal paste to the heatsink.
  2. Place the CPU back into the black plastic clip. One corner of the CPU and one corner of the clip are marked with triangles; be sure to match these triangles together.

CPU installation

  1. Place the heatsink/CPU back onto the motherboard, matching the triangles on the plastic clip/CPU (highlighted above) with the diagonal corner on the CPU socket (highlighted below).

CPU orientation

  1. See Replacing the CPU cooler for more information about re-attaching the cooler to the motherboard.

Replacing the top exhaust fans:

The top exhaust fans assist the CPU fans in expelling hot air from the case.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the top exhaust fans:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition. (The CPU duct can optionally be removed.)
  2. Unscrew the three screws attaching the fan to the CPU duct.

Top exhaust fan screws

  1. Unplug the fan from the extension cable and remove it from the case.
  2. Screw the new fan into the CPU duct, plug it in, and replace the inner partition and top case.

Troubleshooting the power button:

If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:

  1. Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
  2. Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
  3. Check the wiring for the front power button.
  4. Replace the front power button, if necessary.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
  3. Push the small button labeled B0 on the Thelio-IO board closest to the front corner of the case.

Internal power button

Steps to check the front power button wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:

Power button wiring

  1. On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.

Power button receptacle

  1. The front power button receptacle should plug into the PFPD port on the Thelio-IO board closest to the front corner of the machine, with the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.

Power button wiring on Thelio-IO board

  1. The PMBD port on the Thelio-IO board should connect to the motherboard:
    • The red wire on the four-port connector should be on the left (the farthest in) on the Thelio-IO board.
    • The other side of the cable connects to the bottom right of the motherboard:
      • The individual black wire plugs into POWERLED+.
      • The individual red wire plugs into POWERLED-.
      • The two-wire connector plugs into POWERBTN# and GND, with the blue wire on the left (into POWERBTN#.)

Power button wiring on motherboard

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Troubleshooting the Thelio-IO USB connection:

The Thelio-IO boards connect to the motherboard's USB headers for firmware updates and fan control within the host OS. If the fans seem to be stuck on full blast, check the Thelio-IO USB connections.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to check the USB wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Two of the Thelio-IO boards have USB0 ports. The port on each board connects to a four-pin cable with the red wire on the left (farthest into the case).
  3. The two four-pin cables plug into the motherboard's USB headers just to the left of the M.2 slot.

USB wiring on Thelio-IO board

Thelio Mega (thelio-mega-r1.0)

Thelio Mega

The System76 Thelio Mega is a desktop with the following specifications:

  • CPU options
  • Motherboard
    • Gigabyte TRX40 Aorus Xtreme (rev. 1.0 or 1.1) running System76 Firmware (non-open)
    • AMD TRX40 chipset
  • Daughterboard
  • GPU options
    • Up to four GPUs, depending on configuration (2x PCIe 4.0 x16 and 2x PCIe 4.0 x8)
    • GPU size:
      • Internal clearance: 425.80mm
      • Recommended maximum length:415.80mm
    • Tested with the following GPUs:
  • Memory
  • Networking
    • 2x 10-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel 10GbE LAN chip)
      • Combined total is 10Gbit/s; ports will run at 5Gbit/s if used at the same time.
    • Wi-Fi 6 (Intel AX200)
  • Power
    • EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W T2 80+ Titanium Certified PSU
    • C19 power cord
  • Sound
    • 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
    • Optical S/PDIF out
    • Up to 7.1-channel audio output
    • Realtek ALC4050H + ALC1220-VB audio chipset
    • HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
  • Storage
    • 4x M.2 (PCIe Gen 4)
      • Backwards compatible with M.2 SATA and PCIe Gen 3.
    • 8x 2.5" SATA
      • When using all four M.2 slots, some SATA ports will not function. See Parts & Repairs for details.
  • USB
    • 7x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • Dimensions
    • 47.8cm x 26.3cm x 43.8cm

Thelio Mega (External Overview)

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Audio Port Guide:

  • Top row, left to right:
    • Optical S/PDIF Out (square)
    • Rear Speaker Out
    • Center/Subwoofer Out
  • Bottom row, left to right:
    • Mic in
    • Line Out / Front Speaker Out
    • Line In / Side Speaker Out

Power Switch Guide:

  • 1: On
  • 0: Off

Note: The Q-Flash+ button (next to the CMOS reset button) is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of the Q-Flash+ button is not recommended.

Thelio Mega (Internal Overview)

Side overview:

Internal overview (side)

  • CPU cooler is highlighted in olive
  • RAM slots are highlighted in red
  • PCIe slots are highlighted in green
  • M.2 slots are highlighted in dashed cyan (located underneath the heatsink)
  • 2.5" SATA drive slots are highlighted in pink
  • Power supply is highlighted in purple
  • Thelio-IO to motherboard connections are highlighted in yellow
  • CPU duct fan connectors are highlighted in orange
  • Inner partition (GPU) fan connectors are highlighted in solid cyan

PCIe slot guide:

From top to bottom:

  1. PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 1)
  2. PCIe Gen 4 x8 slot (GPU 4)
  3. PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 2)
  4. PCIe Gen 4 x8 slot (GPU 3)

See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.

Thelio Mega (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Thelio Mega can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the inner partition:

The inner partition provides a brace for the outer case and helps hold the internal components in place. The partition needs to be removed to access most internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the inner partition:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the three additional back screws holding the inner partition in place from the back.

Back partition screws

  1. Unplug the two side fan connectors, highlighted cyan below.

Side partition screws

  1. Unscrew the two inner screws holding the partition in place from the side.
  2. Lift the inner partition away from the case.

Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:

Thelio Mega r1.0 supports up to eight 2.5" SATA III drives. When using four M.2 drives, the following restrictions apply:

  • If the bottom right M.2 slot has a SATA drive installed, then 2.5" SATA ports 4 and 5 will be unavailable (leaving a maximum of six 2.5" SATA drives.)
  • If the bottom right M.2 slot has a PCIe NVMe drive installed, then 2.5" SATA ports 4, 5, 6, and 7 will be unavailable (leaving a maximum of four 2.5" SATA drives.)

To use all eight 2.5" SATA III slots, use three or less M.2 drives and leave the bottom right M.2 slot empty. See Replacing the M.2 drives to add, remove, or rearrange M.2 drives.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. If you are adding a new drive, unscrew the hard drive screw cover from the inner partition (shown below), then remove the inner partition.

Storage drive screw cover

  1. Pop out one of the black plastic rings and slide four screws (per drive) out of the inner partition.

Storage drive screws

  1. Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
  2. Unscrew the top cover if you are accessing the top four 2.5" slots, or the bottom cover if you are accessing the bottom four 2.5" slots.

SATA slot covers

  1. Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO boards.

2.5" drive installation

Replacing the case fans:

Thelio Mega r1.0 has two case-mounted fans: one on the bottom, and one on the side next to the motherboard.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the side case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Unscrew the fan's screws on the opposite side from where it's mounted.

Case fan screws

  1. Unplug and remove the fan.
  2. When replacing the fan, the components should be mounted in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Pull the rubber tabs until they come loose from the plastic pins holding the fan in place.

Case fan rubber mounts

  1. When replacing the fan, hold the rubber tabs in place while pushing the plastic pins in from below the machine (it's necessary to tilt the machine when inserting the plastic pins.)

Case fan plastic pins

  1. The components should be mounted in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan

Replacing a GPU:

Thelio Mega supports up to four dual-slot GPUs, two with PCIe 4.0 x16 and two with PCIe 4.0 x8 (x16 cards will run at reduced bandwidth in the x8 slots.) Mixing NVIDIA and AMD GPUs is not recommended.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace a GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, then slide the PCIe bracket open.

PCIe bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place. Remove the brace.

GPU brace screws

  1. If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.

GPU power connections

  1. Hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
    • If removing one of the inner GPUs, it may be necessary to remove one of the outer GPUs first in order to reach the latch.
    • If space is tight, a long object such as a screwdriver can be used to press the latch.

GPU order & PCIe latches

  1. When installing new GPUs, the slots should be utilized in the following order:
    • Primary GPU: top slot.
    • Secondary GPU: third slot from the top.
    • Tertiary GPU: fourth slot from the top (bottom slot).
    • Quaternary GPU: second slot from the top.
  2. After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cables.
    • The maximum number of power cables are preinstalled in your system, but some may be tied back using velcro if the system shipped with less than four GPUs.
  3. Once all GPUs are installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, inner partition, and top case.
    • The side GPU brace includes a plastic piece sized to the GPUs that originally shipped with the system. To remove the plastic piece, unscrew it from the brace.

GPU brace screws

The plastic GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPUs.

Replacing the M.2 drives:

Thelio Mega has four M.2 slots, which support PCIe NVMe Gen 4 x4, PCIe NVMe Gen 3 x4, or SATA III. The following restrictions apply:

  • Top M.2 slot: Supports sizes 22110, 2280, and 2260.
  • Middle M.2 slot: Supports sizes 22110 and 2280.
  • Bottom left M.2 slot: Supports sizes 22110 and 2280.
  • Bottom right M.2 slot:
    • Supports size 2280.
    • If a SATA drive is installed in this slot, then 2.5" SATA ports 4 and 5 will be unavailable.
    • If a PCIe NVMe drive is installed in this slot, then 2.5" SATA ports 4, 5, 6, and 7 will be unavailable.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 23 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the M.2 drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the GPU brace and GPUs.
  2. Remove the M.2 heatsink covering the slots you wish to access.
    • The top and middle M.2 slots are behind the top M.2 heatsink (highlighted cyan below).
    • The bottom left and bottom right M.2 slots are behind the bottom M.2 heatsink (highlighted yellow below).

M.2 heatsink screws

It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. Pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.

  1. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot screws

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. If utilizing a slot for the first time, peel the plastic backing off of the heatsink to expose the double-sided thermal tape for that slot.

M.2 thermal tape

  1. Replace the M.2 heatsinks, GPUs, GPU brace, inner partition, and top case.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct guides airflow through the CPU coolers. It covers the CPU and RAM slots on the motherboard.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, and remove the GPU brace.
  2. Unplug the connectors for the two CPU duct-mounted fans.

Top exhaust fans

  1. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct in place.

CPU duct screws

  1. Pull the CPU duct away from the machine.

Replacing the RAM:

Thelio Mega r1.0 supports up to 256GB (8x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are Unregistered/Unbuffered ECC DDR4 DIMMs running at a speed of 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the bottom latch down away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the bottom edge. (The top of the RAM slot does not move.)

RAM slots

The CPU cooler has been removed for better visibility in the above photo; removing the CPU cooler is not required to access all eight of the RAM slots.

  1. Make sure the tab on the bottom of the slot is open (pulled downwards), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
    • The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. On the left side of the CPU, the larger group of pins goes on bottom; on the right side of the CPU, the larger group of pins goes on top.
    • Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks:

RAM slot order

  1. Replace the CPU duct, GPU brace, inner partition, and top case.

Removing the top crossbar:

The top crossbar provides a brace for the outer case. It needs to be removed when replacing certain components (such as the top Thelio-IO board and the CPU cooler-mounted fan.)

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top crossbar:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unplug the two top fan connectors.

Top fan connectors

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the top crossbar in place (two on the front of the machine, and two on the back.)

Top crossbar screws

  1. Lift the top crossbar out of the system. (It is not necessary to unplug the fan cable underneath the top crossbar unless you are replacing that cable or the Thelio-IO board it plugs into.)

Replacing the CPU fans:

Thelio Mega r1.0 contains three CPU fans. Two are mounted on the CPU duct, and one is mounted on the cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the duct-mounted CPU fans:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. To remove the back CPU duct fan, unscrew the four screws holding the fan brackets into the duct (highlighted green below).

CPU duct inner screws

  1. Free the cable from the velcro loop (highlighted blue above), then unscrew the four screws holding the brackets onto the fan.

CPU duct back fan screws

  1. To remove the front CPU duct fan, unscrew the four screws attaching the front of the duct to the back (highlighted red above).
  2. Then, unscrew the four screws attaching the fan to the duct.

CPU duct front fan screws

Steps to replace the cooler-mounted CPU fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, remove the CPU duct, and remove the top crossbar.
  2. Pull the corners of the fan's top clip away from the heatsink it's held to.

CPU cooler fan top clip

  1. Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then slide the fan down and out of the CPU cooler.
  2. Unplug the fan from the Thelio-IO board.
    • The CPU cooler fan plugs directly into the CPUOUT0 port on the bottom Thelio-IO board.
  3. When reinstalling the CPU fans, all three fans should be oriented so the side with the non-spinning cover faces the back of the machine, while the spinning side faces the front of the machine.

Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:

The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.

The CPU uses an AMD sTRX4 socket.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (long), torx screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 35 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, remove the CPU duct, remove the top crossbar, and remove the cooler-mounted CPU fan.
  2. Unscrew the two screw access covers from the holes in the cooler plate.

CPU cooler screws

  1. While holding the cooler in place so it doesn't fall, reach a cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver through the holes in the cooler plate and loosen the two screws holding the cooler onto the mounting bracket.
  2. The cooler will come away from the CPU.
    • The two screws on the crossbar attaching the CPU cooler to the mounting bracket are held to the crossbar with small rubber rings.
    • If the rubber rings become detached, slide them back onto the screws before reinstalling the cooler.

CPU cooler crossbar screws

  1. Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Steps to replace the CPU:

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the two mounting brackets onto the motherboard.

CPU cooler mounting bracket screws

  1. The black plastic standoff covers will also come loose once the mounting bracket screws are removed. Remember to replace the black plastic standoff covers when reinstalling the mounting brackets.

CPU cooler mounting bracket standoff covers

  1. Using the torx screwdriver, loosen the three CPU cover screws in reverse order (starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.)
    • These screws will not come out of the CPU cover when they are fully loosened.

CPU cover screws

  1. The CPU cover will lower once its screws are loosened. There may be additional remnants of thermal paste underneath the CPU cover.
  2. Pull the blue metal tabs away from the motherboard to flip the CPU holder down on top of the CPU cover.
    • Caution: Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.

CPU holder lowering

  1. Pull the orange tab to slide the CPU out of the CPU holder.

CPU removal

  1. Each AMD Threadripper CPU is shipped inside of an orange plastic clip, so it should not be necessary to remove the CPU from the orange plastic clip. However, if desired (such as to clean off additional thermal paste), the plastic clip can be removed by pulling it back near each of the tabs holding the CPU in place.
    • When reinstalling the CPU into the clip, be sure to match the original orientation, with the triangle on the CPU closest to the tab on the plastic clip.

CPU clip

  1. Slide the new CPU into the CPU holder. Make sure the orange CPU clip aligns properly with the black rails on the CPU holder.
  2. Fold the CPU holder up onto the motherboard until it clicks into place, fold the CPU cover back into place, and tighten the CPU cover screws in ascending order (starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.)
  3. Screw the two mounting brackets for the CPU cooler back onto the motherboard (the smaller bracket goes above the CPU, while the larger bracket goes below the CPU.)

Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:

  1. Place a line of thermal paste onto the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Slide the CPU cooler crossbar on the back of the heatsink until the grooves are positioned correctly.

CPU cooler crossbar

  1. While holding the crossbar onto the heatsink, hold the heatsink in position and use the long cross-head screwdriver (inserted through the holes in the cooler plate) to screw each end of the crossbar into one of the mounting brackets.
    • The logo on the cooler should be upright.
    • The rubber strips on the inside of the cooler should be closest to the back of the machine, while the rubber strips on the outside of the cooler should be closest to the front of the machine.

CPU cooler orientation

  1. Reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, top crossbar, CPU duct, GPUs, GPU bracket, inner partition, and top case.

Replacing the power supply:

The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio Mega.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the power supply:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition and remove the GPU brace and GPUs.
  2. Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
    • Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.

PSU cabling

  1. Unscrew the PSU bracket from the reverse side of the case.

PSU bracket side screw

  1. Unscrew the PSU bracket from the bottom of the case.

PSU bracket bottom screw

  1. Remove the PSU bracket.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.

PSU back screws

  1. Remove/replace the PSU. Set the replacement PSU on top of the two rubber posts that hold it at the correct height.
    • The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.

PSU posts

  1. After screwing in the replacement PSU and replacing the PSU bracket, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
    • Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- eight connectors (on four cables) are to be plugged into the GPUs.
  2. If the replacement PSU has an "ECO Mode" switch, make sure it is switched on.

PSU eco mode switch

Replacing the side fans:

Thelio Mega r1.0 has two intake fans mounted on the inner partition. The fans can be replaced if they become defective/noisy.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the side fans:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Pull the rubber tabs until they come loose from the plastic pins holding the fan in place.

Side fan rubber mounts

  1. Pull the end of the fan cable through the opening and release any velcro strips that are holding it in place.
  2. When replacing the fan, hold the rubber tabs in place while pushing the plastic pins in from the opposite side.

Side fan plastic pins

Replacing the Thelio-IO boards:

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If one of the Thelio-IO boards becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the top crossbar, and remove the front cover from the 2.5" drive cage for the Thelio-IO board that is being replaced.
  2. Use the cutouts on the opposite side of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board that is being replaced.

Thelio-IO cabling cutouts

  1. Unscrew the two screws on the top of the upper drive cage (for the top Thelio-IO board) or the bottom of the lower drive cage (for the bottom Thelio-IO board).

Thelio-IO drive cage screws

  1. While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
  2. Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.

Troubleshooting the power button:

If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:

  1. Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
  2. Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
  3. Check the wiring for the front power button.
  4. Replace the front power button, if necessary.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the inner partition.
  2. Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
  3. Push the small button labeled B0 on the top Thelio-IO board.

Internal power button

  1. If the Thelio-IO B0 button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring.
  2. If the Thelio-IO B0 button does not work, press the Power button in the top right of the motherboard.

Motherboard power button

  1. If the motherboard Power button works, but the Thelio-IO B0 button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.
    • The second Thelio-IO board's power ports can be used if the first board becomes defective.
  2. If the motherboard Power button does not work, then the issue may be the motherboard, or it may be the power supply or its connection to the motherboard. Ensure all connections are plugged in properly and that the power supply is switched to the 1 (On) position.

Steps to check the front power button wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:

Power button wiring

  1. On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.

Power button receptacle

  1. The front power button receptacle should plug into the PFPD port on the top Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the bottom and the black wire on the top.

Power button wiring on Thelio-IO board

  1. The PMBD port on the Thelio-IO board should connect to an adapter:
    • The red wire on the four-port connector should be on the bottom on the Thelio-IO board.
    • The other side of the cable connects to the adapter, with the red wire on the top left, the blue pair immediately following the red pair, and a black wire on the right.

Power button wiring adapter

  1. The adapter should connect to the F-PANEL (front panel) input on the motherboard.

Power button wiring on motherboard

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Troubleshooting the Thelio-IO USB connection:

The Thelio-IO boards connect to the motherboard's USB headers for firmware updates and fan control within the host OS. If the fans seem to be stuck on full blast, check the Thelio-IO USB connections.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to check the USB wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the inner partition, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Two of the Thelio-IO boards have USB0 ports. The port on each board connects to a cable (labeled USB) with the red wire on the bottom.

USB wiring on Thelio-IO board

  1. The two internal USB cables plug into the motherboard's USB headers.

USB input on motherboard

Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-b1.0)

Thelio Mira

The System76 Thelio Mira is a desktop with the following specifications:

  • CPU options
  • Motherboard
    • ASUS ROG STRIX Z590-A GAMING WIFI running System76 Firmware (non-open)
    • Intel Z590 chipset
  • Daughterboard
  • GPU options
  • Expansion
    • 2x PCIe 4.0/3.0 x16 (GPU slots)
    • 1x PCIe 4.0/3.0 x16 (additional slot; single-height cards only)
    • 1x PCIe 3.0 x4
  • Memory
  • Networking
    • 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel I225-V)
    • Wi-Fi 6 (Intel AX200)
  • Power
  • Sound
    • 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
    • Up to 7.1-channel audio output
    • Realtek ALC4080 audio chipset (with Savitech SV3H712 amplifier)
    • HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4), M key
      • Backwards compatible with PCIe NVMe Gen 3.
      • Only active with 11th Gen CPUs.
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3), M key
      • Backwards compatible with SATA III.
    • 4x 2.5" SATA
  • USB
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
    • 4x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-C
    • 4x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 43.635cm × 25.3cm × 33.1cm

Thelio Mira (External Overview)

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Audio Port Guide:

  • Top row, left to right:
    • Rear Speaker Out
    • Center/Subwoofer Out
  • Bottom row, left to right:
    • Mic in
    • Line Out / Front Speaker Out
    • Line In / Side Speaker Out

Power Switch Guide:

  • 1: On
  • 0: Off

Other Notes:

  • The ECO switch on the power supply should always be set to ON for an optimal fan curve.
  • The BIOS Flash button is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of the BIOS Flash button is not recommended.

Thelio Mira (Internal Overview)

Side overview:

Internal overview (side)

  • CPU cooler & CPU cooler fan are highlighted in solid green
  • CPU fan connectors are highlighted in solid pink
  • RAM slots are highlighted in dashed red
  • 2.5" SATA drive slot cover is highlighted in dashed pink
  • M.2 slots are highlighted in dashed cyan (located underneath the heatsinks)
  • PCIe x16 slots are highlighted in yellow
    • Top slot (dashed yellow) is behind the GPU
  • PCIe x4 slot is highlighted in purple
  • Power supply is highlighted in navy
  • Bottom case fan is highlighted in solid red
  • Thelio-IO to motherboard connections are highlighted in dashed green
  • CMOS battery is highlighted in white

PCIe slot guide:

From top to bottom:

  1. PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 1)
    • Runs with x8 bandwidth if slots 2 or 4 are in use.
    • Runs at Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen CPUs.
  2. PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot (GPU 2)
    • Runs with x4 bandwidth.
    • Runs at Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen CPUs.
  3. PCIe Gen 3 x4 slot
  4. PCIe Gen 4 x16 slot
    • Runs with x4 bandwidth.
    • Runs at Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen CPUs.

See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.

Thelio Mira (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Thelio Mira can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:

Thelio Mira b1.0 supports up to four 2.5" SATA III drives.

If the middle and bottom M.2 slots are used with M.2 SATA drives, the motherboard's SATA ports #2 and #6 will become disabled; however, SATA ports #2 and #6 are not used for 2.5" SATA drives in Thelio Mira. If any 2.5" drives are not being detected and M.2 SATA drives are being used, try changing the ports used for the SATA connections between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover.

SATA slot cover

  1. If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).

Storage drive screws

  1. Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
  2. Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.

2.5" drive installation

Replacing the RAM:

Thelio Mira b1.0 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR4 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top latch up away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot, starting from the top edge. (The bottom of the RAM slot does not move.)

RAM slots

  1. Make sure the tab on the top of the slot is open (pulled upwards), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
    • The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
    • Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks:

RAM slot order

  1. Replace the top case.

Replacing the bottom case fan:

Thelio Mira b1.0 has one case-mounted intake fan on the bottom of the chassis.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unplug the fan's cable from the Thelio-IO daughterboard.
    • The bottom case fan plugs into the INTAKE0 port on the Thelio-IO board.
    • When viewed from the front of the case, this connector is second from the top.

Bottom case fan connector

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
    • To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.

Bottom case fan screws

  1. Remove the old fan from the case.
  2. When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan
  3. Thread the new fan's cable through the opening in the bottom-front corner of the case and through the velcro connector near the front edge.

Bottom case fan cable management

Replacing a GPU:

Thelio Mira supports up to two dual-slot GPUs. All PCIe x16 slots run at Gen 4 speeds with 11th Gen processors, or Gen 3 speeds with 10th Gen processors. Mixing NVIDIA and AMD GPUs is not recommended.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace a GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, then slide the PCIe bracket open.

PCIe bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place. Remove the brace.

GPU brace screws

  1. If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.

GPU power connections

  1. Hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
    • If removing the bottom GPU, it may be necessary to remove the top GPU first in order to reach the latch.
    • If space is tight, a long object such as a screwdriver can be used to press the latch.

GPU order & PCIe latches

  1. When installing new GPUs, the slots should be utilized in the following order:
    • Primary GPU: top slot.
    • Secondary GPU: second slot from the top.
  2. After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cables.
    • The maximum number of power cables are preinstalled in your system, but some may be tied back using velcro if the system shipped with less than two GPUs.
  3. Once all GPUs are installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, and top case.
    • The side GPU brace includes screws to adjust for the height of the graphics cards (highlighted green below) and the depth of the graphics cards (highlighted blue.)

GPU brace screws

The GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPUs.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots and top GPU.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace.
  2. Unplug the connectors for the CPU fans.

Top exhaust fans

  1. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct in place.

CPU duct screws

  1. Pull the CPU duct away from the machine.

Replacing the M.2 drives:

Thelio Mira has three M.2 slots. All slots support M.2 sizes 22110, 2280, 2260, and 2242. The following restrictions apply:

  • Top M.2 slot:
    • Only works with 11th Gen CPUs.
    • Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4 and PCIe NVMe Gen 3.
  • Middle M.2 slot:
    • Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III.
  • Bottom M.2 slot:
    • Supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the M.2 drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and GPUs.
  2. If you are accessing the top M.2 slot, remove the CPU duct.
  3. Remove the M.2 heatsink covering the slot you wish to access.
    • The heatsink screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the heatsink.
    • It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.

M.2 heatsink screws

  1. Free the retaining mechanism opposite the M.2 slot.
    • The top M.2 slot uses a regular Phillips screw.
    • The middle and bottom M.2 slots use a plastic locking mechanism.
      • To free a drive, twist the plastic ring counter-clockwise until the tab points away from the M.2 slot.
      • To secure a drive, twist the plastic ring clockwise until the tab points upwards.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. If utilizing the top slot for the first time, peel the blue plastic covering off of the gray thermal tape on the motherboard.
  3. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  4. Replace the retainer screw or secure the plastic retaining tab.
  5. If utilizing any slot for the first time, peel the plastic backing off of the heatsink to expose the double-sided thermal tape for that slot.

M.2 thermal tape

  1. Replace the M.2 heatsinks, CPU duct, GPUs, GPU brace, and top case.

Replacing the CPU fans:

Thelio Mira b1.0 contains two CPU fans. One is mounted on the CPU duct, and one is mounted on the cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the duct-mounted CPU fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Unscrew the four screws (two on each side) holding the fan brackets onto the duct.
    • Removing the brackets from the duct is not required to remove the fan, but it makes installing the fan much easier.

CPU duct fan bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws attaching the two brackets to the fan.

CPU duct fan screws

  1. When reinstalling the fan into the CPU duct, the spinning side should face the CPU cooler and the front of the case, while the side with a stationary cover should face the back of the case.
    • Overtightening the fan bracket's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.

Steps to replace the cooler-mounted CPU fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Pull the corners of the fan's top clip away from the heatsink it's held to.
    • Alternatively, the opposite side of the bracket (clipped onto the heatsink) can be released first.

CPU cooler fan top clip

  1. Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then pull the fan and clips away from the CPU cooler.
  2. When reinstalling the CPU cooler fan, the side with a stationary cover should face the CPU cooler and back of the case, while the spinning side should face the front of the case.

Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:

The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.

The CPU uses an Intel LGA 1200 socket. The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U12S.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (long), torx screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 35 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPUs, remove the CPU duct, and remove the cooler-mounted CPU fan.
  2. While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler onto the vertical mounting brackets.

CPU cooler screws

  1. The cooler will come away from the CPU.
  2. Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

Steps to replace the CPU:

  1. Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
  2. Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
    • Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.

CPU locking pin

  1. Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.

CPU holder raised

  1. Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
    • Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.

CPU (removed)

  1. Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
    • When reinstalling the CPU, be sure to match the original orientation, with the triangle on the CPU pointing to the bottom left of the motherboard.
    • The triangle on the CPU should match the triangle on the top of the CPU cover and the dot on the motherboard.
  2. Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.

Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:

  1. Place a line of thermal paste onto the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
    • Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
  2. Reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU duct, GPU bracket, and top case.

Replacing the power supply:

The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio Mira.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the power supply:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and bottom GPU.
  2. Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
    • Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.

PSU cabling

  1. Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket.
    • One screw is located on the opposite side of the case.

PSU bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.

PSU back screws

  1. Remove/replace the PSU. Set the replacement PSU on top of the rubber post that holds it at the correct height.
    • The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.

PSU post

  1. After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
    • Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- four connectors (on two cables) are to be plugged into the GPUs.
  2. If the replacement PSU has an "ECO Mode" switch, make sure it is switched on for an optimal fan curve.

Replacing the Thelio-IO board:

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If the Thelio-IO board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.

Steps to replace the Thelio-IO board:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and any 2.5" drives that are installed.
  2. Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.

Thelio-IO cabling cutouts

  1. Unscrew the two screws on the top of the upper drive cage closest to the Thelio-IO board.

Thelio-IO drive cage screws

  1. While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
  2. Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.

Thelio-IO wiring guide:

Thelio-IO wiring guide

  1. When wiring the Thelio-IO board, refer to the above image and the following guide.
    • 1: POWER0 - to power supply (via 4-pin Molex adapter.)
    • 2: INTAKE0 - to bottom case fan.
    • 3: CPUOUT0 - to CPU fan splitter board on top crossbar.
    • 4: CPUIN0 - to CPU_FAN header on motherboard. CPU fan header on motherboard
    • 5: SATA0/1/2/3 - to SATA ports #1/#3/#4/#5 on motherboard. (These connectors provide data transfer for the 2.5" drive slots.) SATA connectors on motherboard
    • 6*: PFP0 - to power button receptacle on front panel.
    • 7*: USB0 - to USB header on motherboard. (This connector provides fan control and firmware updates.) USB header on motherboard
    • 8*: PMB0 - to PWR_LED- and PWR_SW headers on motherboard. Power LED & power switch headers on motherboard
    • * For all connectors with multi-colored wires plugging into the Thelio-IO board, the red wire goes on top.

Troubleshooting the power button:

If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:

  1. Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
  2. Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
  3. Check the wiring for the front power button.
  4. Replace the front power button, if necessary.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
  3. Push the small button labeled B0 on the Thelio-IO board.

Internal power button

  1. If the Thelio-IO B0 button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring.
  2. If the Thelio-IO B0 button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.

Steps to check the front power button wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:

Power button wiring

  1. On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.

Power button receptacle

  1. The front power button receptacle should plug into the PFPD port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r3)

Thelio Mira

The System76 Thelio Mira is a desktop with the following specifications:

Thelio Mira (External Overview)

Back overview:

Back Ports

Power Switch Guide:

  • 1: On
  • 0: Off

Other Notes:

  • The ECO (ECO Mode) switch on the power supply should always be set to ON for an optimal fan curve.
  • The BIOS (BIOS Flash) button is not needed when performing UEFI firmware updates via the System76 Firmware Manager. Use of the BIOS Flash button is not recommended.

Front/side overview:

Front & Side Views

Top/bottom overview:

Top & Bottom Views

Thelio Mira (Internal Overview)

Left side overview:

Internal overview (left side)

  • CPU cooler & CPU are highlighted in red (located behind the CPU duct)
  • RAM slots are highlighted in green
  • 2.5" SATA drive cage is highlighted in pink
  • M.2 slots are highlighted in white (located underneath the GPU & heatsinks)
  • GPU (in PCIe 4.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in yellow
  • PCIe 4.0 x4 and x2 slots are highlighted in dark blue
  • Power supply is highlighted in cyan
  • Bottom case fan is highlighted in orange

Right side overview:

Internal overview (right side)

  • Thelio-IO access cutout is highlighted in green
  • Power supply access cutout is highlighted in red

Front side overview:

Internal overview (front side)

  • Thelio-IO connector access cutout is highlighted in green

Top overview:

Internal overview (top)

  • 2.5" drive screws are highlighted in green
  • CPU power connector is highlighted in red
    • Connects to power supply
  • Motherboard CPU fan header is highlighted in yellow
    • Connects to Thelio-IO board
  • Power button receptacle is highlighted in cyan
    • Connects to Thelio-IO board

See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.

Thelio Mira (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Thelio Mira can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the initial revision for this generation (R3-0). Minor case details may vary on newer units, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details should remain the same unless otherwise noted.

Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Replacing the front accent strip:

Thelio Mira includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 30 seconds
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

  1. Place the Thelio on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
    • The Thelio can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
  2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
    • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
  3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
  4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Front accent strip removal

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the eight outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:

Thelio Mira R3 supports up to four 2.5" SATA III drives.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover, highlighted green below.

2.5" drive cover and 2.5" drive screws

  1. If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).

2.5" drive cover and 2.5" drive screws

  1. Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
  2. Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the Thelio-IO board.

2.5" drive installation

Installed 2.5" drive

Thelio Mira R3 with one 2.5" drive installed.

  1. Replace the black plastic screw ring and the 2.5" drive bay cover.

Replacing the bottom case fan:

Thelio Mira R3 has one case-mounted intake fan on the bottom of the chassis.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unplug the fan's cable from the Thelio-IO daughterboard.
    • The bottom case fan plugs into the INTAKE0 port on the Thelio-IO board.
    • When viewed from the front of the case, this connector is second from the top.

Bottom case fan connector

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
    • To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.

Bottom case fan screws

  1. Remove the old fan from the case.
  2. When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan
  3. The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case.
    • The cable runs along the inner corner of the case, and does not pass through any of the cable management holes or velcro strips.

Replacing the GPU:

Thelio Mira supports two multi-slot dedicated GPUs:

  • The top GPU slot is a PCIe 4.0 x16 slot.
    • There are four units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
  • The bottom GPU slot is a PCIe 4.0 x4 slot.
    • There are two units of clearance in the back of the chassis.
    • This slot is forwards-compatible with x16 cards.

Factory configurations only include one GPU.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket.

PCIe bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the side GPU brace in place. Remove the brace.

GPU brace screws

  1. If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.

GPU power connections

  1. Push and hold the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.

PCIe slot & latch

  1. After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cable.
  2. Once the GPU is installed, replace the side GPU brace, back PCIe bracket, and top case.
    • The side GPU brace includes screws to adjust for the height and depth of the graphics cards.

GPU brace screws

The GPU brace's primary function is to prevent damage during shipping. The system can be run without the brace if it doesn't fit an upgraded card; the back PCIe bracket provides primary support for the GPU.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots and top GPU.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace.
    • The GPU can also optionally be removed to provide more room for working with the components.
  2. Unplug the connectors for the CPU fans from the splitter board on the top crossbar.
    • The splitter board provides the same signal to both ports, so it doesn't matter which fan is plugged into which port.

CPU fan connectors

  1. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct in place.

CPU duct screws

  1. Pull the CPU duct away from the machine.

Replacing the RAM:

Thelio Mira R3 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of RAM. The RAM sticks are DDR5 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of up to 4800MHz (the maximum 4x32GB configuration is limited to 3600MHz). If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
    • Removing the CPU duct is optional, but is recommended to provide easier access to the leftmost RAM slot.
  2. To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top and bottom latches away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot.

RAM slots

  1. Make sure the tabs on the top and bottom of the slot are open (pulled away from the slot), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
    • The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
    • Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks: RAM slot order
  2. Replace the top case.

Replacing the M.2 drives:

Thelio Mira R3 has four M.2 storage slots. All four slots are M key and size 2280.

  • Slot 1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 5.
  • Slots 2, 3, and 4 support PCIe NVMe Gen 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew and remove the M.2 heatsink.
    • Slot 1 is located underneath the single-height heatsink; slots 2, 3, and 4 are located underneath the triple-height heatsink.
    • The heatsink screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the heatsink.
    • It may take some pressure to remove the heatsink and thermal tape from the M.2 drive. After unscrewing the heatsink, pull slowly to avoid breaking the thermal tape.

M.2 heatsink screws

  1. For the M.2 drive(s) being removed, push the rectangular side of the retaining clip to flip it open.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Flip the retaining clip back into place and push the circular side until it snaps closed.
  4. Replace the M.2 heatsink, CPU duct, GPU, GPU brace, and top case.
    • If you are populating an SSD slot for the first time, remove any protective plastic that may be covering the thermal tape.
    • When installing the Slot 1 heatsink, fit the tab on the opposite end from the screw into the motherboard standoff before lining up the screw.

M.2 thermal tape

Replacing the CPU fans:

Thelio Mira R3 contains two CPU fans. One is mounted on the CPU duct, and one is mounted on the CPU cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the duct-mounted CPU fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Free the fan cable from the velcro loop, highlighted cyan below.

CPU duct fan bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws (two on each side) holding the fan bracket onto the duct.
    • Removing the bracket from the duct is not required to remove the fan, but it makes installing the fan much easier.
  2. Unscrew the four screws attaching the bracket to the fan.

CPU duct fan screws

  1. When reinstalling the fan into the CPU duct, the spinning side should face inward (towards the front of the chassis), and the cable should point towards the closed corner of the top side of the duct (the top-right corner, when viewed from the back.)
    • Overtightening the fan bracket's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.

Steps to replace the cooler-mounted CPU fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace, and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Pull the corners of the fan's top clip away from the heatsink it's held to.
    • Alternatively, the opposite side of the bracket (clipped onto the heatsink) can be released first.

CPU cooler fan top clip

  1. Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then pull the fan and clips away from the CPU cooler.
  2. When reinstalling the CPU cooler fan, the side with a stationary cover should face the cooler, while the spinning side should face the front of the chassis.
    • The cable should point towards the top inner corner (top-left when viewed from the back of the case.)

Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:

The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.

The CPU uses an AMD AM5 socket. The CPU cooler is a Noctua NH-U12S.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the GPU brace and GPU, remove the CPU duct, and remove the cooler-mounted CPU fan.
  2. While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two screws holding the CPU cooler crossbar onto the vertical mounting brackets.
    • The screws are held captive, and will not fully come out of the crossbar.
    • Only the two outer screws need to be removed; the center screw holding the horizontal crossbar onto the heatsink does not need to be removed.

CPU cooler screws

  1. The cooler will come away from the CPU.
  2. Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

Steps to replace the CPU:

  1. Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
  2. Unscrew and remove the cooler mounting bracket on the right side of the CPU.

CPU cooler mounting bracket

  1. Push the locking pin outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
    • Caution: the locking pin may spring up with significant force when freed.

CPU locking pin

  1. Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
    • The CPU holder opens in the opposite direction from the locking pin.

CPU holder raised

  1. Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
    • Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.

CPU (removed)

  1. Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
    • The triangle on the CPU should be oriented to match the triangle on the CPU cover, pointing towards the top left of the motherboard.
  2. Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking pin down into place.
  3. Reinstall the right-side cooler mounting bracket.

Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:

  1. Draw an X shape of thermal paste onto the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, screw each end of the cooler crossbar onto one of the mounting brackets.
    • The cooler should be oriented so the text is readable from the right side (front of the case).
    • Insert each screw partially first, then fully tighten both.
  2. Set the computer upright, then reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan, CPU duct, GPU, GPU bracket, and top case.

Replacing the power supply:

The power supply unit (PSU) is modular and can be replaced with another unit of the same model. Different models may not be compatible with the cabling pre-installed in the Thelio.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the power supply:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the GPU brace and bottom GPU.
  2. Unplug all of the modular cabling from the back of the PSU.
    • Some of the cables may be easier to unplug after the PSU has been unscrewed/removed from the case.

PSU cabling

  1. Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket.
    • One screw is located on the opposite side of the case.

PSU bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.

PSU back screws

  1. Remove/replace the PSU.
    • Set the replacement PSU on top of the rubber post that holds it at the correct height.
    • The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.

PSU post

  1. After screwing in the replacement PSU, use the labels and pin counts on the cables and ports to ensure the power cables are reconnected in the proper locations.
    • Remember that not all of the available connectors will plug into the PSU-- two 8-pin (6 + 1) connectors are to be plugged into the GPUs.
  2. If the replacement PSU has an ECO switch, make sure it is switched on for an optimal fan curve.

Replacing the Thelio-IO board:

The Thelio-IO board handles the front power button, fan control, and 2.5" SATA connectors for the system. If the Thelio-IO board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the Thelio-IO board:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and any 2.5" drives that are installed.
  2. Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio-IO board.
    • The topmost connector requires pulling the white tab while unplugging.

Thelio-IO cabling cutouts

  1. Unscrew the two screws on the top side of the drive cage.

Thelio-IO drive cage screws

  1. While pulling the loose side of the drive cage away from the Thelio-IO board, move the board back and out of the drive cage.
  2. Place the new Thelio-IO board into the drive cage and replace the screws and wiring.

Thelio-IO wiring guide:

Thelio-IO wiring guide

  1. When wiring the Thelio-IO board, refer to the above image and the following guide. The ports are numbered in the suggested connection order based on position and size.
    • 1: POWER0 - to the power supply PERIF port (via 4-pin Molex adapter.)
    • 2: INTAKE0 - to the bottom case fan.
    • 3: CPUOUT0 - to the splitter board (on the top crossbar) connecting to both CPU fans.
    • 4: CPUIN0 - to the CPU_FAN header at the top of the motherboard. CPU fan header on motherboard
    • 5: DATA0/1/2/3 - to SATA ports #0/#1/#2/#3 on the motherboard, highlighted green below.
      • The ports are located next to the top GPU slot.
      • These connectors provide data transfer for the 2.5" drive slots. SATA connectors on motherboard
    • 6*: PFP0 - to the power button receptacle on the front panel.
    • 7*: USB0 - to the JUSB1 header on motherboard, highlighted red below. USB connector on the motherboard
      • On the Thelio-IO board, the row of four pins plugs in, while the row of five pins hangs off the back and does not plug in.
      • This connector provides fan control and firmware updates.
    • 8*: PMB0 - to the +PLED- and +PW- pins (the four top-left pins of the F_PANEL header) on the motherboard.
      • On the motherboard, the red wire goes on the inner-left and the black wire goes on the inner-right. The corresponding black wires go on the outer-left and outer-right.
      • The F_PANEL header is at the bottom right of the motherboard. Power LED & power switch headers on motherboard
    • * For all connectors with multi-colored wires plugging into the Thelio-IO board, the red wire goes on the top side (viewing from the front of the computer.)

Troubleshooting the power button:

If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:

  1. Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
  2. Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
  3. Check the wiring for the front power button.
  4. Replace the front power button, if necessary.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
  3. Push the small button labeled B0 on the Thelio-IO board.

Internal power button

  1. If the Thelio-IO B0 button powers the machine on, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio-IO board. Check the front power button wiring.
  2. If the Thelio-IO B0 button does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio-IO board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio-IO board and the motherboard.

Steps to check the front power button wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:

Power button wiring

  1. On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right (when viewed from the back of the computer.)

Power button receptacle

  1. The front power button receptacle should plug into the PFPD port on the Thelio-IO board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio-IO wiring guide.)

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Thelio Spark (thelio-spark-b1-n2)

Thelio Spark

The System76 Thelio Spark is a desktop with the following specifications:

  • Chassis
  • Processor options
  • Motherboard
  • Daughterboard
  • Graphics options
    • Up to two dedicated GPUs
      • Primary GPU slot:
        • PCIe 4.0 x16
        • Up to 3-slot height
          • Up to 2-slot height if PCIe x1 slot is in use
      • Secondary GPU slot:
        • PCIe 3.0 x16
        • Up to 4-slot height
    • GPU size:
      • Internal clearance: 318.80mm
      • Recommended maximum length: 308.80mm
    • Tested with the following GPUs:
  • Expansion
    • 1x PCIe 4.0 x16 (primary GPU slot)
    • 1x PCIe 3.0 x16 (secondary GPU slot)
    • 1x PCIe 3.0 x1
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (4x16GB) dual-channel DDR4 DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
      • User-expandable up to 128GB (4x32GB) @ 3200 MHz
    • Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
  • Networking
  • Power
  • Sound
    • Back: 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
    • Top: 3.5mm line out, microphone jacks
    • Up to 7.1-channel audio output
    • Realtek ALC897 audio chipset
    • HDMI, DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 2280/2260/2242 SSD
      • PCIe NVMe Gen 4
    • 1x M.2 2280 SSD
      • PCIe NVMe Gen 3
      • SATA III
      • Intel Optane
    • 2x 2.5" (15mm) SATA III
  • USB
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-C
      • Top port
    • 5x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
      • 4x back ports, 1x top port
    • 2x USB 2.0 Type-A
      • Back ports
  • Dimensions
    • 43.635cm × 25.3cm × 33.1cm

Thelio Spark (External Overview)

Back overview:

Back Ports

Power Switch Guide:

  • 0: Off
  • 1: On

PCI Express Slot Guide:

The recommended PCIe slot configuration is:

  • Top slot (4.0 x16): Used for dedicated GPU (if ordered)
  • Middle slot (3.0 x1): Empty
  • Bottom slot (3.0 x16): Used for wireless card

Cards can be moved into other compatible slots to accomplish different aftermarket configurations. Note that the wireless card may obstruct the GPU fans if placed in the middle PCIe slot (3.0 x1).

Front/side overview:

Front & Side Views

Top/bottom overview:

Top & Bottom Views

Thelio Spark (Internal Overview)

Left side overview:

Chassis components:

Internal overview (left side - chassis)

  • CPU duct is highlighted in red
  • 2.5" drive cage is highlighted in pink
  • Side brace is highlighted in green

Electronic components:

Internal overview (left side - electronics)

  • CPU heatsink is highlighted in yellow
  • RAM slots are highlighted in green
  • 2.5" SATA slots are highlighted in pink
  • M.2 slots are highlighted in cyan
  • GPU (in PCIe 4.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in red
  • Wireless card (in PCIe 3.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in white
  • Power supply is highlighted in maroon
  • Bottom case fan is highlighted in orange

Right side overview:

Internal overview (right side)

  • Thelio Io connector access cutout is highlighted in green
  • Power supply access cutout is highlighted in red

Front side overview:

Internal overview (front side)

  • Thelio Io connector access cutout is highlighted in green
  • Internal power button (on the Thelio Io board) is highlighted in cyan

Top overview:

Internal overview (top)

  • CPU power connector is highlighted in red
    • Connects to power supply
  • Motherboard CPU fan header is highlighted in yellow
    • Connects to Thelio Io board
  • CPU fan splitter is highlighted in pink
    • Connects to Thelio Io board and CPU fans
  • Top I/O board is highlighted in white
    • Connects to motherboard
  • 2.5" drive screws are highlighted in green
  • Power button receptacle is highlighted in cyan
    • Connects to Thelio Io board

See the repairs page for detailed information about installing or replacing components.

Thelio Spark (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Thelio Spark can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the the B1-N2 revision, which indicates:

  • B1: The first Intel motherboard model used in Thelio Spark.
  • N2: Based on the second revision of the nebula36 chassis.

Minor case details may vary based on the production date of the unit, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details should remain the same unless otherwise noted.

Power the machine off, switch off the power supply, and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Replacing the front accent strip:

Thelio Spark includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 30 seconds
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

  1. Place the Thelio on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
    • The Thelio can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
  2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
    • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
  3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
  4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Front accent strip removal

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 2 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the top case:

  1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

Top case screws

  1. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Adding/removing 2.5" storage drives:

Thelio Spark B1-N2 supports up to two 2.5" SATA III drives.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to add/remove 2.5" storage drives:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the two screws securing the drive bay's cover, highlighted green below.

2.5" drive cover

  1. If you are adding a new drive, pop out the black plastic ring on the top crossbar and slide out four screws (per drive).

2.5" drive screws

  1. Insert four screws into each 2.5" storage drive you wish to install.
  2. Slide each 2.5" drive into one of the slots leading to the SATA backplane.

2.5" drive installation

Installed 2.5" drive

  1. Replace the black plastic screw ring and the 2.5" drive bay cover.

Removing the side brace:

The side brace provides a mounting point for the GPU brace finger, which helps keep GPUs or other PCI Express cards in place during shipping. It also provides mounting points for two 120mm fans, which are not offered as part of Thelio Spark but can optionally be installed as an aftermarket upgrade.

The GPU brace finger is only required during shipping. The system can be run without this part if it does not fit an upgraded GPU.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the side brace:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

Side brace screws

  1. Pull the side brace out of the chassis. Unplug the side fan connector from the splitter board on the right side, if connected.

Steps to adjust the GPU brace finger:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the side brace.
  2. To adjust the GPU brace finger's horizontal position, unscrew the four corner screws (highlighted green below), move the GPU brace finger's mounting bar, and reattach it in the desired position.
    • The center vertical adjustment screw (highlighted cyan below) may also need to be removed or loosened.

GPU brace finger screws, back

  1. To adjust the GPU brace finger's vertical position, unscrew the three vertical adjustment screws, move the GPU brace finger, and reattach it in the desired position.

GPU brace finger screws, side

Replacing the bottom case fan:

Thelio Spark B1-N2 has one case-mounted intake fan on the bottom of the chassis. The fan is a 140mm Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 (model number BQ SIW4-14025-MF-PWM).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
    • The side brace can optionally be removed to provide easier access to the fan and its cabling.
  2. Unplug the fan's cable from the Thelio Io daughterboard.
    • The bottom case fan plugs into the INTAKE FAN port on the Thelio Io board.
    • When viewed from the access cutout on the side of the case, this connector is second from the bottom, next to the FANOUT1 port.
      • The FANOUT1 port (highlighted red below) can be unplugged for easier access to the INTAKE FAN port (highlighted green below).

Bottom case fan connector

  1. Unscrew the four fan screws from the bottom of the machine.
    • To avoid damaging other components, place the machine on its front side when working with the bottom surface.
    • A soft surface such as a towel can optionally be used to protect the work surface and the machine.

Bottom case fan screws

  1. Remove the old fan from the case.
  2. When installing the fan, mount the components in the following order:
    • Chassis
    • Dust filter
    • Acrylic spacer
    • Fan
  3. The new fan's cable should be oriented towards the front-right corner of the case.
    • The cable runs along the inner corner of the case, passing through the bottom two velcro straps twice (left through both, then right through both) and the higher two velcro straps once.

Bottom case fan cable management

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct guides airflow through the CPU cooler. It covers the CPU and partially obstructs the RAM slots and top PCIe slot.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the side brace.
    • The GPU can also optionally be removed to provide more room for working with the components.
  2. Unplug the braided connector for the duct-mounted CPU fan from the top splitter board in the front corner of the machine.
    • The splitter board provides the same signal to both ports, so it doesn't matter which fan is plugged into which port.

CPU fan connectors

  1. Unscrew the four back thumbscrews and two top crossbar screws holding the CPU duct in place.

CPU duct thumbscrews (back)

CPU duct screws (top crossbar)

  1. Pull the CPU duct away from the machine.

Replacing the GPU:

Thelio Spark ships with an optional dedicated GPU in the PCIe 4.0 x16 slot (top slot). Factory-installed GPUs are two slots tall, but the fans may extend slightly into the third slot's space. Aftermarket GPUs can be up to three slots tall; GPUs higher than three slots tall require removing the wireless card to fit.

If the wireless card is removed and the first GPU is three or fewer slots tall, then a second GPU can be installed in the PCIe 3.0 x16 slot (bottom slot) as an aftermarket upgrade.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the side brace.
    • You can optionally remove the CPU duct for easier access to the PCIe slot and power cable latches.
  2. If you're removing a GPU, unplug the GPU power cable from the right side of the card. Hold down the latch on the connector while unplugging the cable.

GPU power connections

  1. Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket (or slide it into the rightmost position).

PCIe bracket screws

  1. Push back the latch on the motherboard to free the PCIe connection, then pull the card out of the slot.
    • If the latch is difficult to reach between the GPU and the CPU heatsink, a long object (such as a screwdriver) can be used to push the latch.

PCIe slots & latches

  1. After inserting the new GPU into its slot, connect the power cable.
  2. Once the GPU is installed, replace the back PCIe bracket, side brace, and top case.
    • The GPU brace finger may need to be adjusted before the side brace can be reinstalled.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side brace, and remove the GPU.
  2. Pull the clip away from the CMOS battery.

CMOS battery

  1. Pull the CMOS battery out of its slot.
  2. If you are resetting the CMOS, hold down the power button for 10 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Replace the CMOS battery starting with the left side of the slot (opposite from the clip).
    • The positive side of the battery (with text) should face outward.
  4. Replace the GPU, side brace, and top case.

Replacing the wireless card:

Thelio Spark's wireless card is a Ubit PCI Express x1 card with an Intel AX210 chipset. This chipset suppots WiFi 6E and Bluetooth 5.2. System76 installs custom external antennas that are shorter than the default Ubit antennas.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the wireless card:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the side brace.
  2. Unscrew the two back screws holding the PCIe bracket in place, and remove the PCIe bracket (or slide it into the rightmost position).

PCIe bracket screws

  1. Unplug the wireless card's data cable from the USB_5_6 port on the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
    • The cable may alternatively be plugged into the adjacent USB_3_4 port.

Wireless card

  1. Remove the wireless card from the PCIe slot.
    • You may need to rotate the antennas to fit them through the PCIe slot cutout in the chassis.
  2. Install the new wireless card or reinstall the existing wireless card into the PCIe slot, screw in the antennas (if applicable), then ensure the data cable is plugged into both the white port on the wireless card (highlighted green above) and the USB_5_6 port on the motherboard.
    • The cable may alternatively be plugged into the adjacent USB_3_4 port if the USB_5_6 port is occupied by another component.
  3. Replace the back PCIe bracket, side brace, and top case.

Replacing the RAM:

Thelio Spark B1-N2 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of RAM. Factory configurations are limited to 64GB (4x16GB).

The RAM sticks are DDR4 DIMMs (non-ECC) running at a speed of up to 3200MHz. With aftermarket DIMMs, overclocked speeds of up to 5333 MHz may function but are not guaranteed.

If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
    • If there's no dedicated GPU installed, then removing the CPU duct is optional, but removal is still recommended to provide easier access to the RAM slots.
  2. To remove an existing RAM stick, flip the top latch away from the stick, then pull the stick out of the slot.
    • The bottom of the RAM slot does not move.

RAM slots

  1. Make sure the tabs on the top and bottom of the slot are open (pulled away from the slot), then insert the new RAM (or re-seat the existing RAM) into the slot.
    • The RAM stick will only fit in one direction. The larger group of pins goes on top.
    • Use the following guide for placement of the RAM sticks: RAM slot order
  2. Replace the top case.

Replacing the M.2 drives:

Thelio Spark B1-N2 has two M.2 storage slots. All four slots are M-key and size 2280.

  • Slot 1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4.
  • Slot 2 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3, SATA III, and Intel Optane.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. For Slot 1, unscrew and remove the M.2 heatsink. For Slot 2, unscrew the screw opposite from the slot.
    • For Slot 1, pull the M.2 heatsink directly away from the motherboard to break the seal of the thermal tape, then slide the M.2 heatsink down and out from behind the CPU heatsink.
    • For both slots, the existing M.2 drive (if installed) will pop up at a 30-degree angle from the motherboard.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the M.2 heatsink and/or M.2 screw(s).
    • Because Slot 1 is always populated in factory configurations, the M.2 thermal tape should already be applied and exposed on the M.2 heatsink. The thermal tape is shown below.

M.2 thermal tape

  1. Replace the CPU duct, GPU, side brace, and top case as applicable.

Replacing the CPU fans:

Thelio Spark B1-N2 contains two CPU fans. One is mounted on the CPU duct, and one is mounted on the CPU heatsink.

The heatsink-mounted CPU fan is built onto the cooler's plastic molding. While it can be removed, replacements generally can't be obtained separately from the heatsink.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the duct-mounted CPU fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Free the fan cable from the velcro loop, highlighted cyan below.

CPU duct fan bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws (two on each side) holding the fan bracket onto the duct.
    • Removing the bracket from the duct is not required to remove the fan, but it makes installing the fan much easier.
  2. Unscrew the four screws attaching the bracket to the fan.

CPU duct fan screws

  1. When reinstalling the fan into the CPU duct:
    • The spinning side should face inward (towards the front of the chassis).
    • The cable should point towards the closed corner of the top side of the duct (the top-right corner, when viewed from the back); the side of the fan where the cable originates should match the side of the duct with the velcro strap.
    • Overtightening the fan bracket's screws may cause fan noise; if the fan is creating excessive noise, try slightly loosening some of the screws.

Steps to replace the heatsink-mounted CPU fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
  2. If the heatsink-mounted fan is still plugged in, unplug it from the top splitter board in the front corner of the machine.

CPU heatsink fan clips and connector

  1. Pull the top and bottom edges of the fan's plastic molding away from the heatsink it's clipped onto; the fan can be pulled away from the heatsink once the plastic molding's tabs are held far enough away from the heatsink.
  2. Repeat the process for the bottom clip, then pull the fan and clips away from the CPU heatsink.
  3. When reinstalling the CPU heatsink fan, the side with a stationary cover should face the heatsink, while the spinning side should face the front of the chassis.
    • The cable should point towards the bottom inner corner (bottom-left when viewed from the back of the case.)

Replacing the CPU cooler and CPU:

The CPU cooler dissipates heat from the CPU to the heatsink, where the CPU fans expel it from the system. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler/heatsink may help the system run cooler.

The CPU uses an Intel LGA 1700 socket. The CPU cooler is an Arctic Freezer 7 X Rev 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to remove the CPU cooler/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side brace, remove the CPU duct, and remove the GPU.
  2. While holding the CPU cooler in place so it doesn't fall, loosen the screws on the top and bottom of the CPU cooler holding it onto the mounting bracket.
    • If you unscrew the screws too far, the 90-degree clips will detatch from the vertical mounting bar. Reattach them facing inwards when reinstalling the cooler.

CPU cooler screws

  1. Pull the cooler away from the CPU, alternating between the top and bottom to free the 90-degree clips from the mounting bracket.
  2. Using a paper towel, clean the existing thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

Steps to replace the CPU:

  1. Place the computer on its side so the motherboard is facing up.
  2. Remove the RAM to provide easier access to the cooler mounting bracket's plastic retention pins.
  3. Pull the plastic retention pins out of the four corners of the cooler mounting bracket, then remove the cooler mounting bracket.

CPU cooler mounting bracket

  1. Push the locking lever outward until it's able to spring away from the motherboard.
    • Caution: the locking lever may spring up with significant force when freed.

CPU locking lever

  1. Flip the CPU holder away from the CPU.
    • The CPU holder opens in the opposite direction from the locking lever.

CPU holder raised

  1. Carefully lift the CPU out of the CPU socket.
    • Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins on the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold pads on the CPU.

CPU (removed)

  1. Gently place the new CPU into the socket.
    • The triangle on the CPU should be oriented to match the triangle on the CPU cover, pointing towards the bottom left of the motherboard.
  2. Flip the CPU cover back onto the CPU and push the locking lever down into place.
  3. Reinstall the cooler mounting bracket by lining it up with the holes in the motherboard and pushing the plastic retention pins back into place.
    • Ensure that the transparent sleeves in the corners of the mounting bracket are pulled outwards to the 1700 position.
    • The orientation of the cooler mounting bracket doesn't matter. By default, the 1700 number is on the top and bottom of the bracket, while the 1200 number is on the left and right.

CPU cooler mounting bracket corner sleeves

Steps to install the thermal paste/CPU cooler:

  1. Draw an X shape of thermal paste onto the CPU.

Thermal paste application

  1. Place the CPU cooler onto the CPU; while holding it in place, tighten the screws on the top and bottom of the vertical mounting bar to tighten the 90-degree clips onto the mounting bracket.
    • The cooler should be oriented so the fan is on the right side (towards the front of the case).
    • The 90-degree clips must be oriented inward to fasten onto the mounting bracket.

CPU cooler mounting bracket & 90-degree clips

  1. Set the computer upright, then reinstall the cooler-mounted CPU fan (if necessary), RAM, CPU duct, GPU, side bracket, and top case.

Replacing the power supply:

The power supply unit (PSU) can be replaced with another unit of the same model. One possible preinstalled model is the Thermaltake Toughpower GX2 600W (80+ Gold).

The PSU is not modular, so all of its cabling will need to be unplugged and removed, then the new PSU's cabling will need to be run through the system and connected.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 45 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the power supply:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side brace, and unplug the GPU.
  2. Locate and unplug all of the cables emanating from the power supply (shown below), including the following:

PSU cabling source

  • The 8-pin CPU power cable labeled ATX12V1 near the top-left of the motherboard, highlighted green below.
  • The 24-pin motherboard power cable labeled ATXPWR1 on the right side of the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.

PSU cabling to the motherboard & CPU

  • The 4-pin Berg connector labeled POWER1 on the Thelio Io board.

PSU cabling to the Thelio Io board

  • The 4-pin Berg connector labeled POWER0 on the SATA backplane.

PSU cabling to the SATA backplane

  1. Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket.
    • One screw is located on the opposite side of the case.

PSU bracket screws

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the PSU in from the back of the case.

PSU back screws

  1. Remove/replace the PSU.
    • The replacement PSU should be installed with the fan facing the bottom of the case.
    • Hold the PSU up to the screwholes in the back of the case while attaching it.
  2. Run the new PSU's wires through the system (securing them with velcro straps where necessary), then plug in the new PSU's wires into the motherboard (including the CPU plug), Thelio Io board, SATA backplane, and dedicated GPU (if installed).

Replacing the Thelio Io board:

Named after Jupiter's moon Io, the Thelio Io daughterboard handles the front power button and fan control. Thelio Spark B1-N2 uses Thelio Io version 2. If the Thelio Io board becomes defective, it can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the Thelio Io board:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
    • The CPU duct and side brace can optionally be removed to provide easier access to the cabling.
  2. Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug all cabling from the Thelio Io board.
    • The topmost connector requires pulling the white tab while unplugging.

Thelio Io cabling cutout

  1. Unscrew the two screws holding the daughterboard on from the front of the chassis.

Thelio Io drive cage screws

  1. Screw in the new Thelio Io board and reconnect the wiring.

Thelio Io wiring guide:

Thelio Io wiring guide

  1. When wiring the Thelio Io board, refer to the port labels and the following guide.

    • FANOUT1/CPU FAN - to the top fan splitter (connecting to the CPU fans).
    • FANOUT4/AUX FAN - to the bottom fan splitter (below the CPU fan splitter).
    • FANOUT2/INTAKE FAN - to the bottom case fan.
    • FANOUT3/GPU FAN - to the side brace fan splitter (disconnected by default).
    • FANIN1/MOTHERBOARD FAN INPUT - to the CPU_FAN1 header at the top right of the motherboard, highlighted cyan below.

    Motherboard CPU output header

    • POWER1/POWER INPUT - to the power supply.
      • The white plastic backing needs to be held away from the connector to unplug this cable from the Thelio Io board.
    • PFP1/FRONT PANEL - to the power button receptacle on the front panel.
      • On the Thelio Io board, the wire color order (from top to bottom) is red, black, blue, black.
      • On the power button receptacle, the wire color order (from left to right) is red, black, blue, black.
    • PMB1/MOTHERBOARD - to the PANEL1 header at the bottom right of the motherboard, highlighted green below.
      • On the Thelio Io board, the wire color order (from top to bottom) is red, black, blue, black.
      • On the motherboard, the wire color order (from left to right) is red, black, blue, black.
    • USB - to the USB_3_4 header on the bottom edge of the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
      • A small clip needs to be held down to unplug this cable from the Thelio Io board.
      • This port can alternatively be connected to the USB_5_6 header if the USB_3_4 header is connected to the wireless card.

    Motherboard power button & USB headers

Replacing the SATA backplane:

The SATA backplane provides two 2.5" SATA data and power connectors for the 2.5" drive cage. The part number and version for the SATA backplane is thelio-io-sata_2.2.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the SATA backplane:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, then remove the 2.5" drive cage cover and all 2.5" SATA drives.
    • The CPU duct can optionally be removed to provide easier access to the cabling.
  2. Use the cutouts on the front right corner of the chassis to unplug the 4-pin Berg power connector (highlighted cyan below) and the two SATA data cables (highlighted green below) from the SATA backplane.

SATA backplane cabling cutout

  1. Unscrew the four screws holding the drive cage onto the chassis (highlighted red above), then remove the drive cage from the chassis.
    • This step is optional if you can remove the four SATA backplane screws (highlighted yellow above and below) from the drive cage without removing it from the chassis. The Thelio Io cabling partially obstructs the screws, so removing the cage is suggested.

2.5" drive cage screws

  1. Unscrew the four SATA backplane screws from the drive cage, then push the SATA backplane out through the front of the drive cage.

SATA backplane screws

  1. Place the new SATA backplane into the drive cage and secure it with the four SATA backplane screws, then reinstall the drive cage (if necessary).
  2. Plug the 4-pin Berg power connector and SATA data cables into the SATA backplane.
    • The order of the SATA data cables shouldn't matter as long as your operating system and software is configured to address disks by UUID (e.g. /dev/disk/by-id/...) instead of by letter (e.g. /dev/sd_).
    • By default, the DATA1 port connects to the innermost SATA connector on the motherboard, and the DATA0 port connects to the outermost SATA connector on the motherboard.
  3. Reinstall the CPU shroud (if necessary), any 2.5" drives that were removed, the 2.5" drive cage cover, and the top case.

Replacing the top I/O:

Thelio Spark B1-N2 includes a top I/O module providing audio and USB ports. This module's part number is MYS7523 Rev. 4.0.

If the top ports are damanged or become defective, they can be replaced using the steps below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the top I/O:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
  2. Unplug the HD_AUDIO1 header at the bottom-left corner of the motherboard, below the wireless card.

Top I/O audio header

  1. Unplug the F_USB3_5_6 header (highlighted cyan below) and F_USB3_TC_1 header (highlighted green below) along the right edge of the motherboard, between the RAM and the 2.5" drive cage.

Top I/O USB headers

  1. Unscrew the two front screws holding the top I/O board onto the chassis.

Top I/O screws

  1. Remove the top I/O board from the system.
  2. Insert the new top I/O board into the system and screw it into place.
  3. Reconnect the audio and USB headers.
  4. Replace the side brace (if necessary), CPU shroud, and top case.

Troubleshooting the power button:

If the front power button doesn't power the machine on or doesn't light up when the system is powered on, try the following troubleshooting steps:

  1. Ensure the system powers on normally using the internal power button.
  2. Reseat the front power button to ensure it's making proper contact.
  3. Check the wiring for the front power button.
  4. Replace the front power button, if necessary.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to power the machine on using the internal power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Ensure the system is plugged into power, and the power supply switch is in the 1 (On) position.
  3. Push the small button labeled POWER on the Thelio Io board.
    • The white LED to the left of the button lights up to indicate when the system is powered on (and pulses when the system is suspended).

Internal power button

  1. If the Thelio Io POWER button powers the machine on and the LED lights up, then the issue is either the front power button or its connection to the Thelio Io board. Check the front power button wiring.
  2. If the Thelio Io POWER button and/or LED does not work, then the issue is either the Thelio Io board or its connection to the motherboard. Check the wiring between the Thelio Io board and the motherboard.

Steps to check the front power button wiring:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. On the back of the power button, the four pins should be connected to the four-wire connector as follows:

Power button wiring

  1. On the front power button receptacle, the four-pin connector should have the red wire on the left and the black wire on the right (when viewed from the back of the computer.)

Power button receptacle

  1. The front power button receptacle should plug into the PFP1 port on the Thelio Io board, with the red wire on the top (see the Thelio Io wiring guide.)

Steps to replace the power button:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
  2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Introduction

System76 provides laptops, desktops, servers, and accessories. This book contains technical documentation for System76 hardware. The source can be viewed on GitHub.

Current Models

Previous Models

Adder WS (addw3)

Adder WS

The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050
    • eDP display:
      • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-N4K (or equivalent)
      • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel options:
          • BOE NV173FHM-N4C
          • BOE NE173FHM-NX1
          • BOE NV173FHM-NY2
          • ...or other equivalent
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
        • Bluetooth 5.3
  • Power
    • 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
      • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-280P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13
    • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: NP50BAT-4-73
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSDs
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 (Type C)
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 (Type A)
    • 1x USB 2.0
  • Dimensions
    • 15": 2.71cm x 35.95cm x 23.8cm, 2.05kg
    • 17": 2.82cm x 39.69cm x 26.2cm, 2.85kg

Adder WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Plastic• 15": 6-39-NP501-024
• 17": 6-39-PD701-023
or 6-39-PD711-021
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic• 15": 6-39-NP501-033
• 17": 6-39-PD701-012
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic• 15": 6-78-NP50SNE2-010
• 17": 6-78-PD70SNEG2-010
Bottom panelPlastic• 15": 6-39-NP5S3-012
• 17": 6-39-PD7S3-012

LED indicators

The Adder WS has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
Fn-/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
Fn--Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
Fn-+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Adder WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components and Connectors

  • LCD panel connector (under the heatsink) is highlighted in light green
  • Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
  • RAM slots are highlighted in navy
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in red
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Wireless card is highlighted in purple
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
    • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
  • BIOS flash chip (U65) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard adhesive strip access point is highlighted in cyan
  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red

Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Adder WS 3 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM removal

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Adder WS 3's battery is NP50BAT-4-73, and the original part number is 6-87-NP5SS-73A00. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the four battery screws near the corners of the battery.
    • Also remove any clear tape hanging onto the battery from the fan wires.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
  2. Remove and replace the battery.
  3. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the bottom, and the black wire goes on the top.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the outermost SSD.
    • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the outermost SSD is optional.

CMOS battery

  1. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
  4. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Adder WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Adder WS 3 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
    • Some tape may be underneath the heatsink; it can alternatively be removed after removing the heatsink.
  3. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
    • The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
    • Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted yellow above).
  2. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
  3. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Warning: The keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is possible that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Hard

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
    • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
    • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
      • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
    • Pull the adhesive strip slowly to avoid breaking it. Grasp farther down the strip as it comes out of the machine (don't pull the end far away from the machine.)
    • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

Keyboard adhesive access point

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red below) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point location Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbon connectors

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
  7. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  8. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  9. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
  10. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the left speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
  2. Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.
    • The latches may be covered by clear tape; peel back or remove the tape.

I/O daughterboard ribbon cable

  1. Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
    • The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
  2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Left speaker wire and posts

  1. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
  2. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
  3. Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
  4. Replace the main battery and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
    • The outermost SSD can optionally be removed for easier access to the speaker connector.
  2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
    • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

Right speaker wire and screws

  1. Pull the speaker off of the plastic posts.
  2. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
  3. Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Adder WS (addw2)

Adder WS

The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
    • ITE IT5570E
    • Programmed with System76 EC or non-open EC firmware
  • Graphics
    • GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super
    • eDP display: 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
      • OLED panel: Samsung ATNA56WR06 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
  • Power
    • 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13
    • 62Wh 6-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: PB50BAT-6
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III) SSD-1
    • M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3) SSD-2
    • 2.5" (7.0mm) SATA III
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
      • DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
    • 3x USB 3.0 (3.2 Gen 1) Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 35.890cm x 25.806cm x 2.997cm, 2.5kg

Adder WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Lock screen and toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
-Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness

LED indicators

Front LED lights

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangeDC power plugged in
GreenComputer is on
Blinking greenComputer is sleeping
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Airplane LEDGreenAirplane mode is on
(WiFi/Bluetooth disabled)
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity
Num Lock LEDGreenNum Lock enabled
Caps Lock LEDGreenCaps Lock enabled
Scroll Lock LEDGreenScroll Lock enabled
GPU LEDOffGPU in MSHYBRD Mode
GreenGPU in Discrete Mode

Adder WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in navy
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
  • 2.5" storage drive is highlighted in dark green
  • Wireless card is highlighted in purple
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in light red
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in pink
  • Speaker connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Front LED connector is highlighted in orange
  • Battery connector is highlighted in yellow
  • BIOS flash chip (U60) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Bottom panel screws are highlighted in red
  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
  • CMOS battery is highlighted in cyan
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in pink

Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Adder WS 2's battery is PB50BAT-6, and the original part number is 6-87-PB50S-61D02. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two battery screws, highlighted green below.

Battery screws

  1. Lift the battery out of the chassis.

Removing the keyboard:

The keyboard (and built-in keyboard backlight) can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws.

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine upright and pull the keyboard out of the top case, starting from the top and working toward the bottom.
  2. Once freed, lift the bottom of the keyboard to see the ribbon cables. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.
    • If you are not replacing the keyboard, the keyboard can be flipped over onto the touchpad without disconnecting the ribbon cables.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access most internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the keyboard.
  2. Remove the two under-keyboard screws holding the bottom panel in place from the top.

Under-keyboard screws

  1. Remove the remaining 10 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Adder WS 2 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports only PCIe NVMe Gen 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot

SSD-1 is on the left (closest to the battery slot), while SSD-2 is on the right (closest to the 2.5" drive slot.)

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing a 2.5" storage drive:

This model supports one 2.5" (7mm height) SATA III SSD or hard drive.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the single screw holding the 2.5" drive bracket into the case.

2.5" drive bracket screw

  1. Slightly lift the loose end of the 2.5" drive and slide it out of the SATA port.

2.5" drive removal

  1. Unscrew the two screws holding the 2.5" drive into the drive bracket (one on either side.)

2.5" drive side screw

  1. Insert the new 2.5" drive into the drive bracket and replace the two side screws.
  2. Plug the 2.5" drive into the SATA port and set the drive into the case.
  3. Screw the drive bracket back into the case.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place.
    • Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.

CMOS battery

  1. Pick the CMOS battery up from the open side of the battery slot (on the right).
  2. To clear the CMOS, remove the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Replace the CMOS battery, keyboard, and main battery.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Adder WS 2 has a single heatsink with two attached fans. The entire cooling assembly should be replaced together (fans cannot be removed individually.)

If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the two white fan connectors, highlighted red below.

Thermal screws and connectors

  1. Remove the six heatsink screws and four fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #10.
    • The heatsink screws are spring-loaded, and will not detatch from the heatsink when unscrewed.
  2. Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU/GPU chips.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the six heatsink screws and four fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #10.
  3. Plug in the two white fan connectors.

Adder WS (addw1)

Adder WS

The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
    • MX25L12873F flash chip
      • SOIC-8 form factor
    • Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
  • EC
    • ITE IT8587E
    • Programmed with non-open EC firmware
  • Graphics
    • GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070
    • eDP display: 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
      • OLED panel: Samsung ATNA56WR06 (or equivalent)
    • External video output:
      • 1x HDMI (w/HDCP)
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.3
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.3 over USB 3.1 Type C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB dual-channel DDR4 @ 2666 MHz, or
    • Up to 32GB dual-channel DDR4 @ 3000 MHz
  • Power
    • 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13
    • 62Wh 6-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number PB50BAT-6

Adder WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Bottom case screw sizes

The Adder WS uses a single size of screw for securing the bottom case, battery, and keyboard.

Bottom case screws

Front LED lights

Front LED lights

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangeDC power plugged in
GreenComputer is on
Blinking greenComputer is sleeping
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Airplane LEDGreenAirplane mode is on
(WiFi/Bluetooth disabled)
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity
Num Lock LEDGreenNum Lock enabled
Caps Lock LEDGreenCaps Lock enabled
Scroll Lock LEDGreenScroll Lock enabled
GPU LEDOffGPU in MSHYBRD Mode
GreenGPU in Discrete Mode

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Lock screen and toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
-Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness

External Displays

The Adder WS supports Mini DisplayPort, HDMI, and DisplayPort over USB-C connections for external displays.

Adder WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom panel overview:

Internal Overview

  • GPU fan is highlighted in cyan
  • GPU fan is highlighted in light orange
  • RAM is highlighted in green
  • M.2 SSD is highlighted in orange
  • Wireless/Bluetooth module is highlighted in purple
  • Battery is highlighted in white
  • 2.5" drive bay is highlighted in blue
  • BIOS flash chip (U61), not highlighted

Under-the-keyboard overview:

Under-the-Keyboard Overview

  • CMOS battery is highlighted in red

Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components on your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Replacing the keyboard:

Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Screws: 2 total - 2 x M2 (black)

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 2 keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons.

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the Adder WS and place it on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the Adder WS down, then starting from the top side, pull the keyboard loose.

Keyboard removal

  1. Flip the keyboard over onto the trackpad.

Keyboard flip

  1. Pull the large ribbon cable out of the connector.
  2. The small ribbon cables have latches. Gently pull the latches from both sides and remove the ribbon cables.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Insert the large ribbon cable into the connector.
  5. Seat the small ribbon cables, then apply pressure equally to both sides of the connector to secure.
  6. Flip the keyboard over and press the bottom tabs of the keyboard into the case.
  7. Secure the keyboard by pressing down on the edges of the keyboard.
  8. Flip the Adder WS over.
  9. Replace the 2 screws holding the keyboard in place.
  10. Boot your Adder WS and confirm the keyboard is operational.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium
Screws: 14 total - 12 x M2 perimeter (black); 2 x M2 keyboard (black)

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the external battery.
  3. Remove the keyboard.
  4. Remove the two screws underneath the keyboard labeled ‘M2’.

Under-keyboard screws

  1. Remove the 12 perimeter screws.

Bottom case screws

  1. The bottom cover will lift off, starting from the front corners working to the back near the hinges.

Steps to replace the bottom cover:

  1. Align the bottom cover to the case towards the back and hinges.
  2. Set the bottom cover along the edges and confirm the bottom cover is seated.
  3. Replace the 12 perimeter screws.
  4. Replace the 2 keyboard screws.

Replacing the RAM:

RAM acts as temporary storage for your computer. More RAM generally provides better performance. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM tabs

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

M.2 SSDs offer, at minimum, SATA III speeds and performance in a package about the size of a stick of gum. NVMe M.2 SSDs offer even higher performance. The Adder WS supports two M.2 SSDs, size 2280, either M.2 SATA or NVMe M.2 PCIe Generation 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the M.2 drive (or slot.)

M.2 slots

  1. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
  2. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  3. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  4. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing a 2.5" storage drive:

This model supports one 2.5" (7mm height) SATA III SSD or hard drive.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

  1. Follow the steps to remove the battery, remove the keyboard, and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the single screw holding the 2.5" drive bracket into the case.

2.5" drive bracket screw

  1. Slightly lift the loose end of the 2.5" drive and slide it out of the SATA port.

2.5" drive removal

  1. Unscrew the two screws holding the 2.5" drive into the drive bracket (one on either side.)

2.5" drive side screw

  1. Insert the new 2.5" drive into the drive bracket and replace the two side screws.
  2. Plug the 2.5" drive into the SATA port and set the drive into the case.
  3. Screw the drive bracket back into the case.

Replacing the cooling system:

If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

In rare cases, or after several years, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the CPU heatsink screws.

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the screws, starting with #10, then #9, and continue until you have removed #1.
  2. Carefully remove the heatsink/fans from the case.
  3. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.
  4. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU core.
  5. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  6. Replace the screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #10. Do not fully tighten until sets #1-#3 and #4-#6 are in place, then fully tighten all screws for each set (#1-#3 and #4-#6).

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the Adder WS's CMOS chip. Changes you make to the BIOS and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your Adder WS doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs replacing.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
  2. Locate the CMOS battery. Use a thin plastic tool to remove the CMOS battery.
  3. Power up the Adder WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior.
  4. Press F2 to enter the BIOS.
  5. Choose the "Setup Utility".
  6. Press F9 to Load Setup Defaults.
  7. Click on "Advanced" in the left menu.
  8. Choose "Advanced Chipset Control".
  9. Choose "ME State" and set this option to "Disabled".
  10. Press F10 to save and resume normal boot.

Replacing the external battery

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Adder WS 1's battery is PB50BAT-6. You can contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the external battery

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two screws that hold the battery and then remove the battery.
  3. Place the new battery in and then add the two screws back.

Replacing the wireless card

Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless card.
  3. Gently remove the two antennas by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot.
  5. Remove the wireless card from the M.2 slot.
  6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
  7. Replace the retaining screw.
  8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fitting and pressing onto the wireless card. The connector will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Adder WS (UEFI Setup & Specifications)

When starting your Adder WS, it takes a few seconds to conduct a quick check of the components. As it proceeds, it will notify you if anything is wrong. Any issues that prevent the system from booting will be displayed and you will be prompted to enter the Setup. If no problems are detected, your Adder WS will load GRUB for Ubuntu or systemd-boot for Pop!_OS.

  • For Setup/BIOS, hold F2 while booting.
  • For boot options, hold F7 while booting and choose your preferred boot device.

Updating the BIOS

BIOS/UEFI firmware updates and instructions are sent out as needed. The firmware manager will notify you if a firmware update is available for your Adder WS. You can also check for updates under Settings -> Devices -> Firmware in Pop!_OS, or using the Firmware Manager app in Ubuntu.

BIOS overview

The BIOS/UEFI Setup utility allows you to make low-level changes to your Adder WS. It's not recommended to make changes unless the settings are provided by Support or you understand what you're changing.

Setup Utility

  • SATA Port #: Opens the sub-menu to show the configuration of a SATA device on the SATA ports.

  • OffBoard SATA/NVMe Controller Configuration: Opens the sub-menu to show the configuration of any devices on the offboard SATA/NVMe controller, if installed.

  • System Date/Time: Sets the system date/time using the hardware clock.

  • System/Extended Memory: Displays information about the amount of RAM installed.

  • ME FW/MB Series/BIOS Version/KB/EC Firmware Rev: Displays information about the BIOS version(s).

  • MAC Address: Displays the network adapter's hardware address.

Advanced

  • Advanced Chipset Control: Options for FlexiCharger, GPU Performance Scaling, Intel Speed Shift Technology, VT-d, UEFI OS Fast Boot, Software Guard Extensions (SGX), ME State, HeadPhone PC Beep Sound Support.

    • FlexiCharger: Options to enable/disable FlexiCharger. FlexiCharger will not start charging the battery unless it is below the lower threshold, and will stop charging the battery at the upper threshold. Using FlexiCharger for extended periods of time will decrease the battery indicator's accuracy.

    • GPU Performance Scaling: NVIDIA GPU Performance Scaling Support. Disabling this may cause issues with booting.

    • Intel Speed Shift Technology: Enabling will expose the CPPCv2 interface to allow for hardware controlled P-states (power states.)

    • VT-d: Enable/disable Intel Virtualization Technology for Directed I/O. Extends Intel Virtualization Technology (VT) by providing hardware assets for virtual hypervisors.

    • UEFI OS Fast Boot: When enabled, the system firmware does not initialize the keyboard or check for the firmware menu key.

    • Software Guard Extensions (SGX): Enable or disable Intel SGX (Software Guard Extensions.)

    • ME State: Intel Management Engine. Recommended to Disable.

    • Headphone PC Beep Sound Support: If disabled, there will be no alarm beep sound at boot time though the headphones.

  • Thunderbolt(TM) Configuration:

    • Discrete Thunderbolt(TM) Support: Enable or disable Thunderbolt(TM) Support.

    • Security Level: Security level selection for Thunderbolt(TM).

  • OverClocking Performance Menu: Memory overclocking options.

    • Memory: Select the DIMM timing profile. For 3000MHz memory, use the XMP1 profile.
  • SATA Mode: The SATA (Seral ATA) controller is designed to operate in AHCI (Advanced Host Controller Interface) mode only.

  • Power on boot beep: Enable/disable a beep as the computer starts up.

  • Battery low alarm beep: Enable/disable a beep when the battery is critically low.

Security

  • Set Supervisor Password: Sets a password for the Setup Utility. This does not affect access to the computer or installed OS, only the BIOS/UEFI.

  • TPM Configuration: Trusted Computing settings.

    • Security Device Support: Enables or disables BIOS support for the TPM 2.0 security device.

Administer Secure Boot

  • Secure Boot: Enables support for Secure Boot. This is not recommended or required for Ubuntu/Pop!_OS.

Boot

  • EFI: Sets the boot order and chooses which boot devices are enabled.

  • UEFI Setting: Contains other settings regarding boot devices.

    • Network Stack: Enables or disables support for Intel PXE network boot.

    • IPv4 PXE Support: Allow PXE booting using IPv4.

    • IPv6 PXE Support: Allow PXE booting using IPv6.

Specifications

  • Processors:

    • Intel® CoreTM i7-9750H (4.1GHz): 2.6 up to 4.50GHz - 12MB Cache – 6 Cores – 12 Threads

    • Intel® CoreTM i9-9980HK (4.1GHz): 2.4 up to 5.0GHz - 16MB Cache – 8 Cores – 12 Threads

  • Display: 15.6” 4K (3840x2160) OLED Glossy

  • Memory:

    • Dual Channel DDR4
    • Two 260-pin SO-DIMM sockets
    • Supports DDR4 2666MHz memory modules (real operational frequency depends on the FSB of the processor.)
    • Memory expandable up to 64GB (compatible with 8GB/16GB/32GB modules.)
  • Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070

  • Storage:

    • Two M.2 SSD 2280 slots, supporting SATA and PCIe Gen3x4
    • One 2.5" 7mm SATA slot
  • Audio:

    • High Definition audio interface
    • S/PDIF Digital output
    • Built-in Array Microphone
    • Two built-in speakers
    • SoundBlasterX® Pro-Gaming 360° DAC
  • Touchpad & Keyboard:

    • ClickPad with multi-touch gesture and scrolling functionality
    • A4-size isolated keyboard
  • Webcam: 720p HD Video Camera with USB interface

  • Interfaces:

    • 1 HDMI (with HDCP)
    • 1 Mini DisplayPort 1.3
    • 1 DisplayPort 1.3 over USB 3.1 Gen 2 (Type-C)
    • 1 USB 3.1 Gen 2 / ThunderboltTM 3 Port (Type-C)
    • 3 USB 3.0 Ports (Type A, 1x powered USB port, AC/DC)
    • 1 2-in-1 Audio Jack (Microphone + S/PDIF Optical output)
    • 1 2-in-1 Audio Jack (Headphone + Microphone)
    • 1 RJ-45 LAN (10/100/1000Mbps)
  • Card Reader: Embedded Multi-in-1 Card Reader, supporting SD/Mini SD/SDHC/SDXC up to UHS-II/MMC/RS MMC.

  • M.2 Slots:

    • **Slot 1:**​ for M.2 2230 WLAN combo module with PCIe & USB interfaces (A Key).
    • Slot 2: for SSD M.2 2280 card with SATA/PCIe Gen 3 x4 Interface (M Key).
    • Slot 3: for SSD M.2 2280 card with SATA/PCIe Gen 3 x4 Interface (M Key).
  • Network:

    • Built-in 10/100/1000Mb Base-TX Ethernet LAN
    • Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 9560 (2*2 802.11 a/c) WLAN + Bluetooth M.2 2230 Combo Module (867Mbps)
  • Power and battery:

    • Full Range AC/DC Adapter
    • AC input 100 - 240V, 50 - 60Hz,
    • DC Output 19.5V, 11.8A (230Watts)
    • Embedded smart Lithium-Ion battery pack (62WH)
  • Security:

    • Security (Kensington® Type) Lock Slot
    • Disabled ME
    • BIOS/UEFI Password
    • Trusted Platform Module 2.0 (disabled by default)
  • Operating System: Pop!_OS or Ubuntu

  • LED Indicators: Power/Suspend, Battery, HDD, Airplane Mode, Camera

  • Environmental:

    • Temperature:
      • Operating: 5°C - 35°C
      • Non-operating: -20°C - 60°C
    • Relative humidity:
      • Operating: 20% - 80%
      • Non-operating: 10% - 90%
  • Dimensions & Weight:

    • Height x Width x Depth: 14.13" x 10.16 " x 1.18"
    • 5.51lbs, 2.50kg base weight, varies with configuration.

Bonobo WS (bonw14)

Bonobo WS

The System76 Bonobo WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • Chipset
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Super
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
    • eDP display options:
      • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: LG LP173WFG-SPB1 (or equivalent)
      • 17.3" 3840x2160@60Hz LCD
        • LCD panel: AUO B173ZAN03.0 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI
      • 2 x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • 2 x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 128GB (4x32GB) quad-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
  • Power
    • 2x 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in ports
      • DC-in ports accept rectangular (not barrel) connectors
    • Included AC adapters: 2x Chicony A18-280P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C13 (one per AC adapter)
    • 97Wh 8-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: X170BAT-8
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers (stereo + subwoofer) & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 4x M.2
      • 2x PCIe NVMe or SATA
      • 1x PCIe only
      • 1x SATA only
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C with DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C
  • Dimensions
    • 4.343cm x 39.903cm x 31.902cm, 3.80kg

Bonobo WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Bonobo WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
-Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness

LED indicators

The Bonobo WS has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Bonobo WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • LED bar is highlighted in purple
  • Fan/heatsink module is highlighted in white
  • Keyboard screwholes are highlighted in red
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in pink
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in cyan
  • RAM (slots 1 and 3) are highlighted in green
  • CMOS battery is highlighted in yellow
  • Battery slot is highlighted in orange
  • Speakers are highlighted in olive

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
  • Keyboard backlight connectors are highlighted in light green
  • RAM (slots 2 and 4) are highlighted in cyan
  • Wireless card is highlighted in orange
  • 3.5mm audio jack connector is highlighted in maroon
  • SD card slot connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in pink
  • Front LED connector is highlighted in navy
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in purple
  • Keyboard & keyboard backlight board to motherboard connector is highlighted in olive
  • BIOS flash chip (U16), not highlighted

Bonobo WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Bonobo WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 8 bottom panel screws (highlighted red below.)

Bottom panel screws

  1. Slide the bottom panel away from the battery slot while lifting it up and off of the case (the panel detaches at a slight angle.)

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Bonobo WS 14's battery is X170BAT-8, and the original part number is 6-87-X17SS-91C01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. (Removing the bottom cover is optional, but can make removing the battery significantly easier.)
  3. Slide the locking battery slider (highlighted green below) to the "unlocked" position.

Battery sliders

  1. Hold the spring-loaded battery slider (highlighted yellow above) in the "unlocked" position.
  2. Starting from the top, lift the battery up and out of the slot.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws (circled yellow below.)

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the Bonobo WS back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The largest ribbon cable (highlighted red below) is for the keyboard, while the two smaller ribbon cables (highlighted green) are for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide all three ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
  9. Replace the 2 keyboard screws, the battery, and the bottom panel.
  10. Boot the machine and confirm the keyboard and keyboard backlight are operational.

Replacing the RAM:

The Bonobo WS 14 supports up to 128GB (4x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
  2. Two RAM slots are located on the bottom of the machine, while two are underneath the keyboard. If necessary, follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
  3. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM removal

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to four M.2 SSDs. All M.2 slots are size 2280.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
  2. If working with any of the PCIe NVMe-capable slots, unscrew the three screws (highlighted red below) and remove the black metal cover from above those three slots.

M.2 cover

  1. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slots

In the above photo, the red slot is SATA only, the yellow slot is PCIe NVMe only, and the two orange slots work with SATA or PCIe NVMe.

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Bonobo WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove the battery, and remove the keyboard.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted green above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
  7. Replace the keyboard, battery, and bottom cover.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
  2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

CMOS battery

  1. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery, replace the main battery, and replace the bottom panel.
  4. Power up the Bonobo WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Bonobo WS 12 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans for the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the battery.
  2. Remove the three LED bar screws (highlighted green below).

LED bar screws and connector

  1. Raise the black latch on the ribbon cable connector (highlighted red above) to free the ribbon cable, then remove the ribbon cable; gently peel the cable away from any adhesive present.
  2. Remove the LED light bar.
  3. Remove the black metal M.2 cover. Removing the M.2 cover is optional, but makes it easier to free the fan wires later.
  4. Remove the eight fan screws (highlighted yellow below.)

Thermal screws

  1. Remove the seven spring-loaded heatsink screws (highlighted cyan above) in reverse order, starting with #7, then #6, and continuing until you have removed #1. Keep the four GPU heatsink screws separated from the three CPU heatsink screws; they are different sizes.
  2. Unplug the white fan connectors from the black sockets on the motherboard (highlighted pink above.) Remove any clear tape holding the fan wires in place.
  3. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  4. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

Heatsink assembly

  1. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the spring-loaded heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7. The three screws over the CPU are slightly thicker, while the four screws over the GPU are slightly thinner.
  3. Replace the eight fan screws.
  4. Plug the white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the CPU:

The Bonobo WS uses an LGA 1200 socket for the CPU. If you are upgrading or replacing your CPU, follow the steps below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the CPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove the battery, and remove the heatsink.
  2. Lift up the lever holding the CPU cover in place, highlighted red below.

CPU lever (lowered)

CPU lever (raised)

  1. Flip over the CPU cover.

CPU cover

  1. Carefully lift the old CPU out of the socket. Caution: Be careful not to bend any of the gold pins in the CPU socket, and do not touch the gold plates on the bottom of the CPU.
  2. Carefully place the new CPU into the socket. One of the corners of the socket and CPU are marked with a triangle; be sure to match the triangles to the same corner so the CPU is placed in the correct orientation (highlighted yellow below.)

Triangle on socket

  1. Once the CPU is placed in the correct orientation, replace the CPU cover and lower the lever back down; lowering the lever may take some force.

CPU lever (lowering)

  1. Replace the thermal paste, heatsink/fan(s), battery, and bottom panel.

Replacing the GPU:

The Bonobo WS uses an MXM III slot for the GPU. If you are upgrading or replacing your GPU, follow the steps below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the GPU:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove the battery, and remove the heatsink.
  2. Unplug the power cable, highlighted cyan below.

GPU screws and connector

  1. Unscrew the two screws, highlighted red above.
  2. Raise the GPU to an angle and remove it from the slot.

GPU raised at an angle

  1. Place the new GPU (or reseat the existing GPU) into the slot at an angle, then hold it down and replace the screws and connector.
  2. Replace the thermal paste, heatsink/fan(s), battery, and bottom panel.

Darter Pro (darp8)

Darter Pro

The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • AUO B156HAN02.5
        • BOE NV156FHM-N4H
        • or other equivalent
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4b over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
  • Power
    • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
    • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-ion battery
      • Model number: L140BAT-4
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 1.99cm x 35.7cm x 22.05cm, 1.74kg

Darter Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Materials:

PartMaterialPart Number
LCD back cover (lid)Magnesium-aluminum alloy6-39-NS501-022
or 6-39-NS511-020
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic6-39-NS501-012
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic6-78-NS50PU02-010
Bottom panelMagnesium-aluminum alloy6-39-NS503-014

LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged

Keyboard shortcuts:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
-Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Darter Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in purple
  • Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
  • Fan connector is highlighted in red
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
    • Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
    • Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in brown
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • Lid switch/sensor connector is highlighted in olive
  • BIOS flash chip (U19) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Lid switch/sensor to motherboard connector is highlighted in cyan

Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws:
    • 12 perimeter screws (thin), highlighted green below.
    • 2 keyboard screws (thick), highlighted yellow.
    • 2 inner hinge screws (thick), highlighted red.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Darter Pro 8 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
    • SSD-1 is closest to the battery (pictured on the left.)
    • SSD-2 is closest to the outer edge of the machine (on the right.)

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. If a square thermal pad was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

CMOS battery

  1. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, remove SSD-1 to expose the CMOS battery, then pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Darter Pro 8 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink are a single part (they should not be replaced separately from one another.)

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Peel back the black tape holding the fan to the chassis, and remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
  3. Unplug the black fan connector.
    • This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.
  4. Remove the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Thermal screws

  1. Remove the fan and heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  2. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.

The model number for the Darter Pro 8's battery is L140BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-L140S-72B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.

Main battery

  1. Remove the battery.
    • The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
    • A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
    • If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
      • Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
      • Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.

Battery tape

  1. Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.

Darter Pro (darp7)

Darter Pro

The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
    • ITE IT5570E
    • Programmed with System76 EC or non-open EC firmware
  • Graphics
    • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • AUO B156HAN02.5
        • BOE NV156FHM-N4H
        • or other equivalent
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
  • Power
    • 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-065N3A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
    • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-ion battery
      • Model number: L140BAT-4
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
    • MicroSD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
    • 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 1.99cm x 35.7cm x 22.05cm, 1.74kg

Darter Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged

Materials:

PartMaterial
LCD back cover (lid)Magnesium-aluminum alloy
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic
Bottom panelMagnesium-aluminum alloy

Keyboard shortcuts:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
-Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness

Darter Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in purple
  • Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
  • Fan/heatsink module is highlighted in navy
  • Fan connector is highlighted in white
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
  • M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in brown
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in light red
  • Lid switch/sensor connector is highlighted in olive
  • BIOS flash chip (U12) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Lid switch/sensor to motherboard connector is highlighted in cyan

Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws:
    • 12 perimeter screws (thin), highlighted green below.
    • 2 keyboard screws (thicker), highlighted yellow.
    • 2 inner hinge screws (thickest), highlighted red.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Darter Pro 7 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
    • SSD-1 is closest to the battery (pictured on the left.)
    • SSD-2 is closest to the outer edge of the machine (on the right.)

M.2 slots

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. If a square brace was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

CMOS battery

  1. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, remove SSD-1 to expose the CMOS battery, then pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Darter Pro 7 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink are a single part (they should not be replaced separately from one another.)

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Peel back the black tape holding the fan to the chassis, and remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
  3. Unplug the black fan connector.
  4. Remove the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Thermal screws

  1. Remove the fan and heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  2. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.

The model number for the Darter Pro 7's battery is L140BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-L140S-72B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.

Main battery

  1. Remove the battery.
    • The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
    • A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
    • If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, hold them down while inserting the plastic tool so they don't get pushed back under the battery.

Battery tape

  1. Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.

Darter Pro (darp6)

Darter Pro

The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
    • ITE IT8587E
    • Programmed with System76 EC or non-open EC firmware
  • Graphics
    • GPU: Intel UHD Graphics 620
    • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: LG LP156WFC-SPD3 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI
      • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.2
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.3 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 2666 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth options:
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
      • Intel Wireless-AC 9560
  • Power
    • 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A12-065N2A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • 54.5Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: N150BAT-4
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
    • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
    • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe or SATA)
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 2x USB 3.0 Type-A
    • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
  • Dimensions
    • 1.98cm x 36.04cm x 24.46cm, 1.6kg

Darter Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Darter Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-F12Fn+`Play/Pause
Fn-*Fn+*Toggle keyboard backlight
/Fn+/Cycle keyboard color
-Fn+-Decrease keyboard brightness
+Fn++Increase keyboard brightness

LED indicators

The Darter Pro has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low
Airplane LEDGreenAirplane mode is on
(WiFi/Bluetooth disabled)
Storage LEDGreenStorage drive activity

Darter Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in dark green
  • M.2 SSD is highlighted in purple
  • Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • CMOS battery is highlighted in white
  • Fan/heatsink module is highlighted in navy
  • Fan connector is highlighted in light red
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Main battery is highlighted in brown
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in maroon
  • Speakers are highlighted in olive
  • Touchpad connector is underneath the battery, highlighted in dashed red
  • Touchpad button connector is highlighted in dashed green
  • Front LED connector is highlighted in dashed yellow
  • BIOS flash chip (U26) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in cyan
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in green
  • Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
  • Left-side USB connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Bottom panel screws are highlighted in pink

Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below. Removing the keyboard is required for removing the bottom panel.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted red below).

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

Note: Unplugging the ribbon cables is not required to remove the bottom cover.

  1. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 12 bottom panel screws.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard.
  2. Remove the three under-keyboard screws holding the bottom panel in place from above, highlighted cyan below.

Under-keyboard screws

  1. Lift the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Darter Pro 6's battery is N150BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-N15Zs-51E01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the seven battery screws, highlighted red below.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted green above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the RAM:

The Darter Pro 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 2666MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, either SATA III or PCIe NVMe Generation 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.
  4. If a square brace was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted green above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

CMOS battery

  1. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the bottom panel and keyboard.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Darter Pro 6 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink can be removed or replaced separately from one another.

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs replacing.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fan:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the two fan screws, highlighted green below.

Thermal screws

  1. Unplug the black fan connector, highlighted cyan above. Remove any clear tape that may be holding the wires in place.
  2. Remove the fan from the system.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the keyboard and remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the three heatsink screws (highlighted red above) in order, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
  3. Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  4. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the three heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.

Galago Pro (galp6)

Galago Pro

The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: Panda LM140LF2L02 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI 2.1
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
  • Power
    • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
    • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
    • 53Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: NV40BAT-4-53
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
      • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
      • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
    • 2x USB 3.2 (Gen 1) Type-A
  • Dimensions
    • 32.49cm x 22.5cm x 1.82cm, 1.45kg

Galago Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Keyboard & Touchpad

Materials:

PartMaterial
LCD back cover (lid)Aluminum
LCD front cover (bezel)Plastic
Top case (palm rests/port covers)Plastic
Bottom panelPlastic

LED indicators

The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F4Fn+F4Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-accentFn+`Play/Pause
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

Galago Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in purple
  • M.2 SSD is highlighted in maroon
  • Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • BIOS flash chip (U43) is highlighted in black
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in red
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in dark green
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
  • EC chip is highlighted in cyan
    • ITE IT5570E-128 2205-EXA 1A1RB

Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 14 bottom panel screws.
    • The two hinge corner screws (highlighted red below) are slightly thicker than the rest.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Galago Pro 6's battery is NV40BAT-4-53, and the original part number is 6-87-NV4PS-54B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted cyan above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the RAM:

The Galago Pro 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, PCIe NVMe Generation 4 (or Generation 3).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

Wireless card

  1. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
  2. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
  3. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
  4. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
  5. Replace the retaining screw.
  6. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Follow the steps above to remove the M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
    • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.

CMOS battery

  1. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green above.)
  2. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
  3. Re-connect the CMOS battery and main battery, and replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
  4. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the speakers:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the battery and remove the SSD.
  2. Unscrew the speaker screws.
    • Each speaker has two screws, which are set inside of rubber rings to reduce vibration.

Speaker screws and connectors

  1. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard and lift the speaker out of the machine.
    • The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
  2. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the SSD and battery (if necessary) and bottom panel.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Galago Pro 6 has a single heatsink with two fans for the CPU and integrated GPU. Both fans are separate from the heatsink and can be replaced independently.

If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High

Steps to replace the fans:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
  3. Unplug the white fan connector (highlighted below) for each fan you are removing from the system.

Fan screws

  1. Remove the two fan screws (highlighted green above) for each fan you are removing.
  2. Replace the fans, screw in the two fan screws for each fan, and plug the white fan connectors into the system.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the fan closest to the CPU.
    • Removing the fan is optional, but is recommended to ensure the fan properly overlaps the heatsink's air guide after reinstallation.
  2. Remove the four heatsink screws (highlighted cyan below) in order, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #4.

Heatsink screws

  1. Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
  2. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

Thermal paste removal

  1. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each die of the CPU chip.

Thermal paste application

  1. Carefully replace the heatsink.
  2. Replace the four heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #4.
  3. Replace the fans and bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the keyboard:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the two keyboard screws, highlighted green below.

Keyboard screws

  1. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
  2. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

Keyboard push point

  1. Set the machine upright and flip the keyboard down onto the touchpad. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

Keyboard ribbons

  1. Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
  2. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
  3. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
  4. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
  5. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
  6. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
  7. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
  8. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Galago Pro (galp5)

Galago Pro

The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

  • CPU
  • BIOS
  • EC
  • Graphics
    • GPU options:
      • Intel Iris Xe Graphics (Integrated graphics model)
      • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 (Switchable graphics model)
      • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 Ti (Switchable graphics model)
      • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 (Switchable graphics model)
    • eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV140FHM-N62 (or equivalent)
    • External video outputs:
      • 1x HDMI
      • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
  • Memory
    • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
  • Networking
    • Gigabit Ethernet
    • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
      • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
  • Power
    • Intel-only model:
      • 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
        • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
      • Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-065N3A
        • AC power cord type: IEC C5
      • USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
    • NVIDIA 1650/1650 Ti + Intel model:
      • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
        • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
      • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
        • AC power cord type: IEC C5
      • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
    • NVIDIA 3050 + Intel model:
      • 120W (19V, 6.15A) DC-in port
        • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
      • Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1121-26
        • AC power cord type: IEC C5
      • USB-C charging compatible with 120W+ charger
    • 49Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
      • Model number: NV40BAT-4-49
  • Sound
    • Internal speakers & microphone
    • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
    • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
  • Storage
    • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
    • SD card reader
  • USB
    • 2x USB 3.2 (Gen 1) Type-A
    • 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
    • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
  • Dimensions
    • 32.49cm x 22.5cm x 1.75cm, 1.41kg

Galago Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Left Ports

Right side overview:

Right Ports

Front side overview:

Front Ports

Back side overview:

Back Ports

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

KeyShortcutAction
Fn-F1Fn+F1Toggle trackpad
Fn-F2Fn+F2Toggle built-in LCD
Fn-F3Fn+F3Mute
Fn-F4Fn+F4Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
Fn-F5Fn+F5Volume down
Fn-F6Fn+F6Volume up
Fn-F7Fn+F7Toggle displays
Fn-F8Fn+F8Screen brightness down
Fn-F9Fn+F9Screen brightness up
Fn-F10Fn+F10Toggle webcam
Fn-F11Fn+F11Toggle airplane mode
Fn-F12Fn+F12Suspend
Fn-accentFn+`Play/Pause
1Fn+1Toggle fan between max/automatic

LED indicators

The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:

IconColorDescription
Power LEDOrangePowered off, DC power plugged in
GreenPowered on
Blinking greenSleeping (suspended)
Battery LEDOrangeBattery charging
GreenBattery fully charged
Blinking orangeBattery critically low

Galago Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

Internal Components

  • RAM slots are highlighted in purple
  • M.2 SSD is highlighted in maroon
  • CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
  • Fan connectors are highlighted in red
  • Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
  • BIOS flash chip (U33) is highlighted in black
  • LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
  • Speaker connectors are highlighted in dark green
  • Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
  • Touchpad connector is highlighted in white

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

Under-Keyboard Connectors

  • Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
  • Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
  • EC chip is highlighted in cyan
    • ITE IT5570E-128 2028-CXA A17GKB

Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

  1. Place the machine lid-side down.
    • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
  2. Remove the 14 bottom panel screws.
    • The two hinge corner screws (highlighted yellow below) are slightly thicker than the rest.

Bottom panel screws

  1. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Galago Pro 5's battery is NV40BAT-4-49, and the original part number is 6-87-NV40S-41B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to remove the battery:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted red below.

Battery screws

  1. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted green above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the RAM:

The Galago Pro 5 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the RAM:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

RAM slots

  1. Remove the RAM from the slot.
  2. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, PCIe NVMe Generation 4 (or Generation 3).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

M.2 slot

  1. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
  2. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
  3. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

  1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
  2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
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