Introduction

System76 provides laptops, desktops, servers, and accessories. This book contains technical documentation for System76 hardware. The source can be viewed on GitHub.

Current Models

• Adder WS (addw3)
• Bonobo WS (bonw15)
• Darter Pro (darp9)
• Galago Pro (galp7)
• Gazelle (gaze18)
• Kudu (kudu6)
• Launch (launch_2)
• Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_1)
• Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)
• Lemur Pro (lemp12)
• Meerkat (meer7)
• nebula19 (nebula19-1)
• nebula36 (nebula36-1)
• nebula49 (nebula49-1)
• Oryx Pro (oryp11)
• Pangolin (pang13)
• Serval WS (serw13)
• Thelio (thelio-b4)
• Thelio Major (thelio-major-r3)
• Thelio Massive (thelio-massive-b1.2)
• Thelio Mega (thelio-mega-r1.0)
• Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-b1.0)
• Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r3.0)
• Thelio Spark (thelio-spark-b1-n2)

Previous Models

• Adder WS (addw2)
• Adder WS (addw1)
• Bonobo WS (bonw14)
• Darter Pro (darp8)
• Darter Pro (darp7)
• Darter Pro (darp6)
• Galago Pro (galp6)
• Galago Pro (galp5)
• Galago Pro (galp4)
• Gazelle (gaze17)
• Gazelle (gaze16)
• Gazelle (gaze15)
• Launch (launch_1)
• Lemur Pro (lemp11)
• Lemur Pro (lemp10)
• Lemur Pro (lemp9)
• Meerkat (meer6)
• Meerkat (meer5)
• Oryx Pro (oryp10)
• Oryx Pro (oryp9)
• Oryx Pro (oryp8)
• Oryx Pro (oryp7)
• Oryx Pro (oryp6)
• Pangolin (pang12)
• Pangolin (pang11)
• Pangolin (pang10)
• Serval WS (serw12)
• Thelio Major (thelio-major-b1/b2/r1/r2)
• Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r1.0) zz

Adder WS (addw3)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i9-13900HX
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050
  • eDP display:
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-N4K (or equivalent)
    • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • BOE NV173FHM-N4C
        • BOE NE173FHM-NX1
        • BOE NV173FHM-NY2
        • ...or other equivalent
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.3
• Power
  • 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
    • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-280P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: NP50BAT-4-73
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSDs
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 (Type C)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 (Type A)
  • 1x USB 2.0
• Dimensions
  • 15": 2.71cm x 35.95cm x 23.8cm, 2.05kg
  • 17": 2.82cm x 39.69cm x 26.2cm, 2.85kg

Adder WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators

The Adder WS has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Adder WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• LCD panel connector (under the heatsink) is highlighted in light green
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
• RAM slots are highlighted in navy
• Fan connectors are highlighted in red
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• Wireless card is highlighted in purple
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
  • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
• BIOS flash chip (U65) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard adhesive strip access point is highlighted in cyan
• Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red

Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the keyboard
• Replacing the speakers

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Adder WS 3 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Adder WS 3's battery is NP50BAT-4-73, and the original part number is 6-87-NP5SS-73A00. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the four battery screws near the corners of the battery.
   • Also remove any clear tape hanging onto the battery from the fan wires.

3. Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove and replace the battery.
5. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the bottom, and the black wire goes on the top.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the outermost SSD.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the outermost SSD is optional.

2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
3. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
5. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Adder WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Adder WS 3 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
   • Some tape may be underneath the heatsink; it can alternatively be removed after removing the heatsink.
3. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
   • The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
   • Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

4. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted yellow above).
5. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
10. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Warning: The keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is possible that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Hard ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
   • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
   • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
     • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
   • Pull the adhesive strip slowly to avoid breaking it. Grasp farther down the strip as it comes out of the machine (don't pull the end far away from the machine.)
   • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red below) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
15. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the left speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
2. Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.
   • The latches may be covered by clear tape; peel back or remove the tape.

3. Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
   • The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
4. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

5. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
6. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
7. Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
8. Replace the main battery and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
   • The outermost SSD can optionally be removed for easier access to the speaker connector.
2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Pull the speaker off of the plastic posts.
4. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
5. Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Bonobo WS (bonw15)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Bonobo WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i9-13900HX
• Chipset
  • Intel HM770 Express
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090
      • TGP: 150W (175W boost)
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080
      • TGP: 150W (175W boost)
  • eDP display options:
    • 17.3" 3840x2160@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NE173QUM-NY1 (or equivalent)
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 2x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
• Networking
  • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.1
• Power
  • 330W (19.5V, 16.42A) DC-in ports
    • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A20-330P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • 99Wh 8-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: X270BAT-8-99
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 3x M.2 PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• USB
  • 2x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 2.49cm x 39.6cm x 27.8cm, 3.29kg

Bonobo WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators

The Bonobo WS has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Bonobo WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Bonobo WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
• Wireless card is highlighted in navy
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • All slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
  • Left speaker connector (on the right) is under SSD slot 3
• BIOS flash chip (U58) is highlighted in black
• Main battery connector is highlighted in red
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• RAM is highlighted in maroon

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connectors are highlighted in green
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in cyan

Bonobo WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Bonobo WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives or Kensington locks) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.

3. Slide the back strip off the back of the machine.

4. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the back.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Bonobo WS 15's battery is X270BAT-8-99, and the original part number is 6-87-X270S-92B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the four screws along the top of the battery.

3. Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove the battery, starting from the top edge with screw holes.
5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the bottom edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
6. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the RAM:

The Bonobo WS 15 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to three M.2 SSDs. All M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Bonobo WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Hold the card down and replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the comptuer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
   • If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.

3. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery.
5. Replace the SSDs and wireless card (if necessary) and the bottom panel.
6. Power up the Bonobo WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Bonobo WS 13 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
2. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
   • Screws #1-#12 are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. Screw #13 is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
   • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

3. Remove any clear tape covering the fan wires.
   • The tape covering the wireless card antennas may also need to be removed.
4. Unplug the black fan connectors from the motherboard.
5. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
10. Plug the black fan connectors back into the motherboard and (optionally) replace the clear tape.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the left speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
2. Remove the two screws holding the audio daugherboard onto the chassis, then flip the audio daughterboard over towards the motherboard.

3. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

4. Unscrew the two speaker screws, free the speaker wire from the channels in the chassis, and remove the speaker.
5. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
6. Replace the audio daughterboard and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Unscrew the two speaker screws and remove the speaker.
4. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard.
5. Replace the bottom cover.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard includes per-key RGB LED backlighting, and can be replaced using the instructions below.

Warning: Removing the keyboard may cause permanent aesthetic damage to the underside of the keyboard, particularly if the adhesive strip is not fully removed first. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver; tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
   • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
   • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
     • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
   • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The largest ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cables are for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
15. Replace the bottom cover.

Darter Pro (darp9)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i7-1360P
    • Core i5-1340P
• BIOS
  • GD25B256D flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
    • LCD panel options:
      • Innolux N156HCA-E5B
      • BOE NV156FHM-N4M
      • BOE NV156FHM-N4V
      • BOE NV156FHM-N63
      • or other equivalent
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4a over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.3
• Power
  • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
  • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-ion battery
    • Model number: L140BAT-4
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 1.99cm x 35.7cm x 22.05cm, 1.74kg

Darter Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged

Keyboard shortcuts:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Mic mute
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard brightness levels
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Darter Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• RAM slots are highlighted in purple
• Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
• Fan connector is highlighted in red
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
• Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in brown
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Lid switch/sensor connector is highlighted in olive
• BIOS flash chip (U22) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
• Lid switch/sensor to motherboard connector is highlighted in cyan

Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the keyboard
• Replacing the battery

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws:
   • 12 perimeter screws (thin), highlighted green below.
   • 2 keyboard screws (thick), highlighted yellow.
   • 2 inner hinge screws (thick), highlighted red.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Darter Pro 9 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
   • SSD-1 is closest to the battery (pictured on the left.)
   • SSD-2 is closest to the outer edge of the machine (on the right.)

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.
6. If a square thermal pad was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

3. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, remove SSD-1 to expose the CMOS battery, then pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
4. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
6. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Darter Pro 9 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink are a single part (they should not be replaced separately from one another.)

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Peel back the black tape holding the fan to the chassis, and remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
3. Unplug the black fan connector.
   • This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.
4. Remove the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

5. Remove the fan and heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the speakers from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speakers.
   • The right speaker connector has a white receptacle, while the left speaker connector has a black receptacle.

3. Pull the speakers up and off of the plastic posts.
   • When lifting the left speaker, free the wire from the channel in the chassis.
4. Slide the new speakers onto the plastic posts and connect them to the motherboard.
   • The left speaker's wire can be run through the channel in the chassis before or after plugging it in.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
12. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
13. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery; it is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery.

This product's battery is potentially recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points.

The model number for the Darter Pro 9's battery is L140BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-L140S-72B02. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.

3. Remove the battery.
   • The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
   • A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
   • If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
     • Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
     • Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.
4. Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.

Galago Pro (galp7)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake-H) CPUs
    • Core i7-13700H
    • Core i5-13500H
• BIOS
  • Macronix flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU options:
    • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
    • LCD panel: Sharp LQ140M1JW49 (or equivalent)
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.3
• Power
  • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
  • 53Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: NV40BAT-4-53
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
  • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
  • SD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 (Gen 1) Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 32.49cm x 22.5cm x 1.82cm, 1.45kg

Galago Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators

The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F4	Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Galago Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• RAM slots are highlighted in purple
• M.2 SSD is highlighted in maroon
• Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• BIOS flash chip (U43) is highlighted in black
• Fan connectors are highlighted in red
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in dark green
• Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
• EC chip is highlighted in cyan
  • ITE IT5570E-128

Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Removing the battery
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 14 bottom panel screws.
   • The two hinge corner screws (highlighted red below) are slightly thicker than the rest.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Galago Pro 7's battery is NV40BAT-4-53, and the original part number is 6-87-NV4PS-54B01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted green below.

3. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted yellow above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the RAM:

The Galago Pro 7 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280 with a PCIe NVMe Generation 4 interface.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.

3. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green above.)
4. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery and main battery, and replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
6. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the battery and remove the SSD.
2. Unscrew the speaker screws.
   • Each speaker has two screws, which are set inside of rubber rings to reduce vibration.

3. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard and lift the speaker out of the machine.
   • The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
4. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the SSD and battery (if necessary) and bottom panel.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Galago Pro 7 has a single heatsink with two fans for the CPU and integrated GPU. One fan is attached to the heatsink, while the other can be replaced independently.

If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the additional fan:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wire.
3. Unplug the white fan connector for the additional fan, highlighted green below.

4. Remove the two fan screws, highlighted red above.
5. Replace the fan, screw in the two fan screws, and plug the white fan connector into the system.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the additional fan.
   • Removing the additional fan is optional, but is recommended to ensure the fan properly overlaps the heatsink's air guide after reinstallation.
2. Unplug the remaining fan connector, highlighted green below.

3. Remove the two fan screws for the remaining fan, highlighted red above.
4. Remove the four heatsink screws (highlighted cyan above) in order, starting with #5, then #6, and continuing until #8.
   • Screws #1-4 are for the dedicated GPU portion of the heatsink, and are not installed on the Galago Pro 7.
5. Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each die of the CPU chip.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the four heatsink screws, starting with #5, then #6, and continuing until #8.
10. Screw in the attached fan and plug its connector back into the motherboard.
11. Replace the additional fan and bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the two keyboard screws, highlighted green below.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine upright and flip the keyboard down onto the touchpad. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
12. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
13. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Gazelle (gaze18)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Gazelle is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel Raptor Lake CPUs
    • Intel i9-13900H
• Chipset
  • Intel HM770
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • Dedicated GPU:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
      • TGP: 70W (95W boost)
  • Integrated GPU:
    • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display:
    • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • BOE NV173FHM-N4C
        • BOE NE173FHM-NX1
        • BOE NV173FHM-NY2
        • BOE NE173QHM-NY3
        • ...or other equivalent
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • BOE NV156FHM-N4K
        • BOE NV156FHM-NX4
        • BOE NE156QHM-NY5
        • Innolux N156HCE-EN1
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
    • Realtek RTL8111H
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
• Power
  • 150W DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1151-76
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • 54Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: NP50BAT-4-54
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • Does not support DisplayPort over USB-C, USB-C charging (USB-PD), or Thunderbolt
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 15": 35.95cm x 23.8cm x 2.27cm, 1.99kg
  • 17": 39.69cm x 26.2cm x 2.5cm, 2.41kg

Gazelle (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

The Gazelle has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

The Gazelle has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Gazelle (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
• Fan connectors are highlighted in red
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in cyan
• Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
• Wireless card is highlighted in blue
• RAM is highlighted in maroon
• BIOS flash chip (U24) is highlighted in black
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in green
• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red

Gazelle (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Gazelle can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the keyboard
• Replacing the speakers

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from over the ports in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Gazelle 18 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Pull the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The inner-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4, and the outer-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Gazelle's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Gazelle 18's battery is NP50BAT-4-54, and the original part number is 6-87-NP5KS-51B00. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver Time estimate: 8 minutes Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.

3. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted red above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the outermost M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
3. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.

4. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery.
6. Reconnect the main battery, replace the M.2 SSD, and replace the bottom cover.
7. Power up the Gazelle. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Gazelle 18 includes two fans as part of a single heatsink/fan assembly.

If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
3. Remove the silver heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
   • Note: Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

4. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
5. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto both CPU chips and the GPU chip.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the silver heatsink and fan screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
10. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the keyboard adhesive strip at the edge of the motherboard underneath the right fan's heatsink pipe, highlighted green below.
   • You can optionally remove the heatsink to make the adhesive easier to grasp. Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the heatsink is removed.

3. Using a pair of tweezers to reach the end of the strip (if necessary), pull out the end of the keyboard adhesive strip to stretch and detatch it.
4. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
5. Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (next to the RAM slot) until the keyboard pops out.

6. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

7. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
8. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
9. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
10. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
11. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the bottom cover.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the left speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
2. Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.

3. Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
   • The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
4. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

5. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
6. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
7. Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
8. Replace the main battery and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
   • The outermost SSD can optionally be removed to make it easier to work with the speaker plug.
2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.
4. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
5. Replace the SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Kudu (kudu6)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Kudu is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports AMD Ryzen (Cezanne) Mobile CPUs
    • Ryzen 9 5900HX
• BIOS
  • W74M12JWSSIQ flash chip
    • SOIC-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with non-open EC firmware
• Graphics
  • Dedicated GPU:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
      • TGP: 60W
  • Integrated GPU:
    • AMD Radeon RX Vega 8
  • eDP display options:
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: AUO B156HAN08.4 (or equivalent)
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
• Power
  • 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • 48.96Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: NH50BAT-4
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
• USB
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD) or Thunderbolt
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 15": 36.1cm x 25.8cm x 2.9cm, 2.2kg

Kudu (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
/	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
-	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
+	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness

Kudu (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in pink
• DC-in power connector is highlighted in red
• BIOS flash chip (U51) is highlighted in black
• Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
• RAM is highlighted in dotted green
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dotted yellow
• Wireless card is highlighted in blue
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in solid yellow
• CMOS battery is highlighted in solid green

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in cyan
• Front LED connector is highlighted in green

Kudu (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Kudu can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the battery
• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the DC-in jack
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Kudu 6's battery is NH50BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-NH50S-42D01. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the battery:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Slide the locking slider (highlighted cyan below) into the unlocked position.

3. While holding the springing slider (highlighted red above) in the unlocked position, grasp the tab in the corner and lift the battery out of the machine.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
   • The silver hinge screw (highlighted cyan below) is slightly shorter than the rest.

3. Pull the bottom panel off of the case, starting behind the battery slot.

Replacing the RAM:

The Kudu 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280, and both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 3 only.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Kudu's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the main battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
   • If you are replacing the battery, remove any clear tape, then gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.

3. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Re-connect the CMOS battery, replace the bottom panel, and replace the main battery.
5. Power up the Kudu. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Kudu 6 has a single heatsink for the CPU and GPU. One fan is attached to the heatsink, while the other fan is separate from the heatsink.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the standalone fan:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the standalone fan.
   • The standalone fan is located between the battery slot and the M.2 drives, next to the DC-in port.
3. If there is any clear tape on the fan securing the DC-in cable, remove it.
4. Remove the three screws attaching the standalone fan to the chassis.
   • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan's cover on.

5. Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan above.
6. Lift the fan out of the system.
   • The fan grill at the edge of the chassis is part of the heatsink, and will not lift out with the fan.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the standalone fan.
   • Removing the standalone fan is not physically required, but is recommended to ensure the heatsink is reinstalled properly.
2. Remove the heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #10.
   • The first four screws (#1 - #4) are held captive and will not pull away from the heat sink when loosened.

3. Unplug the white fan connector from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
4. Remove the heatsink/fan from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
5. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

6. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.

7. Carefully replace the heatsink.
8. Replace the silver heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #6.
9. Replace the black fan screws.
10. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the DC-in jack:

If the DC-in jack (power port) is no longer making contact with the barrel charger, and replacing the charger doesn't fix the issue, the DC-in jack can be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the DC-in jack:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape securing the internal DC-in cable.
3. Unscrew the two screws holding the DC-in connector onto the chassis, highlighted cyan below.

4. Unplug the internal DC-in cable from the motherboard.
5. Plug in the new cable, replace the screws, and (optionally) replace the tape.

Replacing the keyboard:

Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 2 keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
12. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
13. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Launch (launch_2)

• External Overview
• Customization & Repairs

The System76 Launch is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

• Chassis
  • Open-source milled chassis design
  • Magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bar
• Electronics
  • Open-source PCB design
  • Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
  • N-key rollover
• Sockets and Switches
  • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
  • Default switch options:
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
    • Kailh Box Silent Brown
    • Kailh Box Silent Pink
• Keycaps
  • PBT plastic
  • Dye sublimated legend
  • XDA profile
  • Sizes:
    • 3x 2U keycaps (both Space bars and left Shift)
      • All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
    • 8x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, Bksp, and Del)
    • 73x 1U keycaps
• Layout
  • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
• Custom Configurations
  • Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
  • Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
• Integrated Hub
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Firmware
  • Open-source QMK-based firmware
• Included cables:
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 30.83cm x 13.51cm x 3.061cm, 948g

Launch (External Overview)

Top overview:

Back overview:

Box contents overview:

Launch (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.

• Connecting and using Launch
• Removing and installing keycaps
• Removing and installing switches
• Removing the PCB

Connecting and using Launch:

1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch's center USB-C port, shown above.
2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
3. Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove a keycap:

1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
   • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

2. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removing larger keycaps:

• The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch's keycap sizes.
• The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
  • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Steps to install a keycap:

1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
   • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
   • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Removing and installing switches:

Because Launch uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to remove a switch:

1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

3. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
4. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
   • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
   • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

Steps to install a switch:

1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
   • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
   • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

2. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

3. Place the switch straight into the plate.
   • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
4. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Removing the PCB:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.

Steps to remove the PCB:

1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
   • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

2. Turn the keyboard over and remove the five bottom panel screws.
   • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

3. Remove the bottom panel.
   • If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.

4. Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
   • To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Steps to install the PCB:

1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
   • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
   • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
   • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

2. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
   • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
   • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
   • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

3. Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C ports on the top edge.
   • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
   • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
   • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

4. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
   • If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
     • The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.

Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_1)

• External Overview
• Customization & Repairs

The System76 Launch Heavy is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

• Chassis
  • Open-source milled chassis design
  • Dual magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bars
• Electronics
  • Open-source PCB design
  • Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
  • N-key rollover
• Sockets and Switches
  • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
  • Default switch options:
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
    • Kailh Box Silent Brown
    • Kailh Box Silent Pink
• Keycaps
  • PBT plastic
  • Dye sublimated legend
  • XDA profile
  • Sizes:
    • 6x 2U keycaps (both Space bars, left Shift, numpad 0, numpad +, and numpad Enter)
      • All six 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
    • 8x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, Bksp, and Del)
    • 91x 1U keycaps
• Layout
  • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
• Custom Configurations
  • Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
  • Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
• Integrated Hub
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Firmware
  • Open-source QMK-based firmware
• Included cables:
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 39.40cm x 13.51cm x 3.03cm, 1315.42g

Launch Heavy (External Overview)

Top overview:

Back overview:

Box contents overview:

Launch Heavy (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Heavy Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch Heavy before changing keycaps or switches.

• Connecting and using Launch Heavy
• Removing and installing keycaps
• Removing and installing switches
• Removing the PCBs

Connecting and using Launch Heavy:

1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Heavy's center USB-C port.

2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
3. Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch Heavy.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch Heavy uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 25 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove a keycap:

1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
   • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

2. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removing larger keycaps:

• The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Heavy's keycap sizes.
• The six 2U keycaps (both Space bars, left Shift, numpad 0, numpad +, and numpad Enter) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
  • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Removing vertical keycaps:

• For the launch_heavy_1.1 revision numpad PCB, when removing vertical 2U keycaps (numpad Enter and numpad +), the switch will come out of the socket with the keycap.

• If you are not replacing the switch, remove it from the keycap and install it back into the keyboard before putting on the new keycap.

Steps to install a keycap:

1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
   • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
   • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Removing and installing switches:

Launch Heavy uses Kailh hot swap sockets, so key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Heavy, it is recommended to completely remove the PCBs, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCBs into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCBs.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to remove a switch:

1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

3. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
4. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
   • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
   • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

Steps to install a switch:

1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
   • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
   • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

2. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

3. Place the switch straight into the plate.
   • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
4. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Removing the PCBs:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

If either of the PCBs in your Launch Heavy become damaged and need to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches in the keyboard, they can be removed and replaced using these instructions. The two PCBs are joined by a 100mm long, 20 pin, 0.5mm pitch FPC cable.

Steps to remove the PCBs:

1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
   • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

2. Turn the keyboard over and remove the eight bottom panel screws.
   • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

3. Remove the bottom panel.
   • If the magnetic lift bars are installed, they can be used as handles.

4. Disconnect and remove the flat ribbon cable between the main PCB (launch 2.0) and the numpad PCB (launch_heavy 1.1).
   • Slide the black latches away from the white connectors to free the cable.

5. Push each PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift each PCB out of the chassis, one at a time.
   • For the main board, to avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Steps to install the PCBs:

1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
   • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCBs, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCBs or switches during installation.
   • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
   • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

2. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
   • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
   • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCBs, the switch or corresponding PCB may be damaged.
   • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

3. Carefully line up the main PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
   • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
   • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
   • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

4. Repeat the previous step for the numpad PCB.
5. Insert the ribbon cable into the white connector on both PCBs, then slide the black latches shut.
6. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
   • If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
     • The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.

Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)

• External Overview
• Customization & Repairs

The System76 Launch Lite is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

• Chassis
  • Open-source milled chassis design
  • Magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bar
• Electronics
  • Open-source PCB design
  • Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
  • N-key rollover
• Sockets and Switches
  • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
  • Default switch options:
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
    • Kailh Box Silent Brown
    • Kailh Box Silent Pink
• Keycaps
  • PBT plastic
  • Dye sublimated legend
  • XDA profile
  • Sizes:
    • 3x 2U keycaps (both Space bars and left Shift)
      • All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
    • 7x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, and Bksp)
    • 60x 1U keycaps
• Layout
  • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
• Custom Configurations
  • Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
  • Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
• Firmware
  • Open-source QMK-based firmware
• Included cables:
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 30.83cm x 10.71cm x 3.06cm, 816.46g

Launch Lite (External Overview)

Top overview:

Back overview:

Box contents overview:

• Contact System76 Support to purchase replacement accessories (availability may vary.)

Launch Lite (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Lite Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.

• Connecting and using Launch Lite
• Removing and installing keycaps
• Removing and installing switches
• Removing the PCB

Connecting and using Launch Lite:

1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Lite's USB-C port, shown above.
2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch Lite uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove a keycap:

1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
   • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

2. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removing larger keycaps:

• The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Lite's keycap sizes.
• The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
  • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Steps to install a keycap:

1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
   • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
   • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Removing and installing switches:

Because Launch Lite uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Lite, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to remove a switch:

1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

3. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
4. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
   • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
   • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

Steps to install a switch:

1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
   • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
   • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

2. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

3. Place the switch straight into the plate.
   • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
4. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Removing the PCB:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.

Steps to remove the PCB:

1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
   • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

2. Turn the keyboard over and remove the four bottom panel screws.
   • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

3. Remove the bottom panel.
   • If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.
   • A small plastic spacer (highlighted cyan below) may come loose; if it does, place it back in the middle PCB hole.

4. Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
   • To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Steps to install the PCB:

1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
   • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
   • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
   • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

2. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
   • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
   • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
   • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

3. Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
   • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
   • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
   • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

4. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
   • If any of the oval magnets came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
     • The magnets are held in by glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed.

Lemur Pro (lemp12)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Lemur Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i7-1355U
    • Core i5-1335U
• BIOS
  • Macronix MX25L25673G flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • GOP driver is recommended, VBT is provided
  • eDP display: 14.0" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
    • LCD panel: Innolux N140HCE-EN2 (or equivalent)
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR5
    • 4x Samsung K4RAH165VB-BCQK (2GB each)
  • Channel 1: 8-GB/16-GB/32-GB/48-GB DDR5 SO-DIMM @ 4800 MHz
• Networking
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.3
• Power
  • 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: AcBel ADA012
    • AC power cord type: IEC C7 (non-polarized)
  • USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
  • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: L140BAT-4
• Sound
  • Realtek ALC256-CGT audio chipset
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
  • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
  • MicroSD card reader (RTS5227S)
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 1.65cm x 32.2cm x 21.68cm, 1.15kg

Lemur Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Speakers

The machine has two bottom-firing speakers near the front, angled outward.

Materials:

LED indicators

There is an LED light next to the DC-in connector (charger port.) The color and pattern indicate:

• Solid green: Powered on and not suspended.
• Flashing green: Powered on and suspended.
• Solid yellow: Powered off and charging.
• Off: Powered off and not charging.

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Lemur Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F4	Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Lemur Pro (Internal Overview)

Components and connectors:

Components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs. Connectors can be reseated for troubleshooting purposes.

• RAM slot is highlighted in maroon
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in green
  • Slot closest to RAM supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • Slot closest to battery supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
• Wireless card is highlighted in navy
• LCD cable connector is highlighted in yellow
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in orange
• Keyboard connector (main) is highlighted in olive
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in white
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in brown
• Battery connector is highlighted in light red
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in pink
• BIOS flash chip (U41) is highlighted in black

Lemur Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Lemur Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the main battery

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 12 total

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 12 screws from the bottom panel.

3. Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Lemur Pro 12 comes with 8GB of 4800 MHz RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which cannot be replaced. There is an additional RAM slot, which can support up to a 48GB stick for 56GB of RAM total. The additional stick is a standard DDR5 SO-DIMM running at 4800 MHz.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
   • SSD-1 is between the battery and the speaker.
   • SSD-2 is next to the RAM slot.

4. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
5. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it down.
6. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your system's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It connects with a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless card (next to the CPU fan.) Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the primary SSD.
3. Remove any clear tape that is securing the battery, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
   • If you are only clearing the CMOS and are not replacing the CMOS battery, removing the SSD and CMOS battery is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.

4. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
5. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
6. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
7. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the small connector plugging the fan into the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
   • This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.

4. Remove the two fan screws (highlighted cyan above) and any clear tape holding the fan in place.
5. Remove the heatsink screws in reverse order, starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.
6. Remove the heatsink/fan from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
7. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.

8. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU.

9. Carefully replace the fan and heatsink.
10. Replace the heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
11. Replace the fan screws and plug the fan back in.
    • When plugging the fan in, the black wire goes on the left (closest to the side of the machine.)

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Pull the tops of the purple rubber circles over the black tabs holding them in place.
4. Lift the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.

5. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.

Replacing the main battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Lemur Pro 12's battery is L140BAT-4, and the original part number is 6-87-L140S-72B02. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the main battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.

3. Remove the battery.
   • The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
   • A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
   • If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
     • Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
     • Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.
4. Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.

Meerkat (meer7)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Meerkat is a desktop with the following specifications:

• CPU options
  • i3-1220P
  • i5-1240P
  • i7-1260P
• Graphics
  • GPU:
    • i3 model: Intel UHD Graphics
    • i5 & i7 model: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • Video output:
    • 2x HDMI 2.1
    • 2x DisplayPort 1.4a over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) Dual Channel DDR4 SODIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel i225-LM)
    • Optional I/O add-on (tall model only): additional 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
  • Wi-Fi 6E & Bluetooth 5.3 (Intel AX211)
• Power
  • i3 model:
    • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter*: APD DA-90J19
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • i5 and i7 models:
    • 120W (20V, 6.0A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter*: Chicony A17-120P2A
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • * Included AC adapter may be a different model with the same specifications.
• Sound
  • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
  • 7.1-channel digital audio output over HDMI and USB-C
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 2280 (M key)
    • PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • 1x M.2 2242 (B key)
    • SATA III
    • In the tall model, the optional I/O add-on occupies this slot.
  • Tall model only: 1x 2.5"
    • SATA III
• USB
  • 2x USB4 Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
  • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
    • Optional I/O add-on (tall model only): additional 2x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • Short: 117 x 112 x 37mm
  • Tall: 117 x 112 x 54mm

Meerkat (External Overview)

Front side overview:

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Back side overview:

Short model:

Tall model with optional I/O add-on:

Meerkat (Internal Overview)

Component overview:

• M.2 2280 (NVMe) SSD slot is highlighted in yellow
• M.2 2242 (SATA) SSD slot is highlighted in cyan
  • Occupied by the optional I/O add-on (if installed) in the tall model
• 2.5" SATA ribbon connector is highlighted in green
  • Only used in the tall model
• Wireless card (underneath the NVMe SSD) is highlighted in red
• RAM slots are highlighted in pink
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in white
• Motherboard screws are highlighted in black

Meerkat (Parts & Repairs)

Several components in your Meerkat can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom panel
• Replacing an M.2 drive
• Replacing the RAM
• Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive
• Resetting the CMOS
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Removing the optional I/O add-on
• Removing the motherboard
• Replacing the fan
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the thermal paste
• Removing the cable keeper
• Mounting with VESA mount

Removing the bottom panel:

The bottom panel can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom panel:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Completely loosen the four screws in the corners.
   • The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the bottom panel.
   • Multiple sets of screws may be present on the tall model; the outermost screws (surrounded by rubber feet) are for the bottom panel.

3. Gently lift the bottom panel out of the machine.
   • If your Meerkat is the tall model (with a 2.5" drive slot), be careful not to damage the thin cable running from the motherboard to the bottom panel.

Replacing an M.2 drive:

Your Meerkat has two M.2 slots. The first slot is size 2280 and supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4. The second slot is size 2242 and supports SATA III.

If you have the tall model Meerkat with the optional I/O expansion module, it will occupy the 2242 slot.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 6 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
   • In the photo below, the short model is shown on the left, while the tall model (with the optional I/O expansion module installed) is shown on the right.
   • The 2280 slot screw is highlighted cyan, while the 2242 slot screw is highlighted red.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.
6. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the RAM:

The Meerkat 7 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
2. Pull the small tabs on both sides of the RAM away from the RAM stick simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive:

If your Meerkat is the tall variety, it has a 2.5" SATA III drive bay built into the bottom panel.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to add/remove a 2.5" storage drive:

1. If a 2.5" drive was not already installed, pull the four rubber plugs out of the bottom of the Meerkat.
   • This can be done before or after opening the machine.

2. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
3. Locate the SATA connector in the bottom panel and orient your drive to match.

4. Slide the drive into the slot on the bottom panel until it plugs all the way into its connector.

5. Insert four 2.5" drive screws through the bottom panel to secure the 2.5" drive.

5. Replace the bottom panel.

Resetting the CMOS:

A CMOS reset will restore the UEFI firmware settings to their factory defaults, which can sometimes help if the system is not booting.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver and (optionally) tweezers
Time estimate: 13 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to reset CMOS:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
2. Disconnect the CMOS battery connector (labeled RTCBAT on the motherboard).
   • Try to pull the plug, not the wires.

3. Hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Reconnect the CMOS battery.
5. Replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
6. Power up the machine. The system may take longer than usual to boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Meerkat's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, 5.0 mm hex socket
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
2. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted cyan below) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.

3. Use the 5mm hex socket to remove the M.2 screw standoff, which also holds the wireless card in place.
4. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
5. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
6. Replace the retaining standoff.
7. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place.
   • Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Removing the optional I/O add-on:

The optional I/O add-on is an expansion module that adds one additional 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet port and two additional USB 2.0 Type-A ports to the system.

If you ordered your Meerkat with this module, the steps below can be used to remove it. If you're upgrading your Meerkat with the module, reverse the steps to install it.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to remove the optional I/O add-on:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
2. Disconnect the module's ribbon cable by flipping the black latches up and pulling the ribbon out of the connectors on either side.

3. Unscrew the M.2 screw holding the expansion module's adapter into the M.2 2242 slot and remove the adapter.
4. Unscrew the two screws holding the expansion module in from the back of the system.

5. Lift the expansion module out of the system.
   • When reinstalling the expansion module, the side labeled BTM should face outwards (so it will point down towards the bottom of the machine once the system is upright).

Steps to remove the expansion slot placeholder:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
2. Unscrew the two screws holding the expansion slot placeholder in from the back of the system.

3. Lift the expansion slot placeholder out of the system.
   • When reinstalling the slot placeholder, the side labeled BTM should face outwards (so it will point down towards the bottom of the machine once the system is upright).

Removing the motherboard:

Removing the motherboard is necessary for replacing the CMOS battery, cooling fan, and thermal paste.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to remove the motherboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
2. If your Meerkat is the tall variety:
   • Remove the optional I/O add-on or expansion slot placeholder.
   • Disconnect the ribbon cable that leads to the 2.5" drive bay.
     • The white latch pulls away from the motherboard to free the cable; gently pull the cable out of the connector.

3. Disconnect the two wireless antenna cables.
4. Remove the two motherboard mounting screws along the back edge of the machine.

5. Carefully lift the motherboard out of the case.
   • It is easiest to lift the front side first, pivoting the board against the back side of the case.
   • Removing the RAM is not required, but can make removing the motherboard easier.
   • Slightly squeezing the front sides of the chassis can help provide more clearance while pivoting the motherboard.

Replacing the fan:

The cooling fan can be removed to clean dust out of the cooling system or to access the CPU heatsink when replacing the thermal paste.

The screws used for the fan are the same type as those used for the M.2 SSDs.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fan:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the M.2 drive, unplug the wireless card, and remove the motherboard.
2. Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan below.

3. Remove the two fan screws (highlighted yellow above) and remove the fan.
   • The plastic strip at the bottom of the fan is adhered to the heatsink; gently pull the fan off of the heatsink.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip, where UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored. If your clock is constantly resetting, your CMOS battery may need to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 27 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the motherboard, remove the fan, and unplug the CMOS battery.
2. The CMOS battery is adhered to the motherboard with double-sided tape. Gently pull the CMOS battery off of the motherboard.

3. Stick the new CMOS battery onto the motherboard using the included double-sided tape (if present), then plug the new CMOS battery in and replace the fan, motherboard, and bottom panel.

Replacing the thermal paste:

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the M.2 drive, unplug the wireless card, remove the motherboard, and remove the fan.
2. Loosen the four heatsink screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
   • The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the heatsink.

3. Gently lift the heatsink off of the motherboard.
4. Using a paper towel, clean the old thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

5. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

6. Replace the heatsink and tighten the four screws in the order, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
7. Reinstall the fan, motherboard, wireless card, M.2 drive, and bottom panel.

Removing the cable keeper:

Your Meerkat comes with a cable organizer to help hold cables in place. The cable organizer can be removed for a lower profile.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the cable keeper:

1. Unscrew the Phillips thumbscrew holding the cable keeper in place.

Removing the top cover:

The Meerkat's top cover can be removed or replaced.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the top cover:

1. Pull up on the grooves in the back of the cover.

2. Once the back is free, pull the rest of the top cover off of the machine.

Mounting with VESA Mount:

Your Meerkat comes with a VESA mount adapter, which allows it to be mounted on the back of a display. This allows operation as an all-in-one, taking up no additional desk space.

Because the Meerkat mounts to the display's VESA mount, this will only work on displays which aren't already mounted via the VESA mount.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to mount with the VESA adapter:

1. Insert the two shoulder screws into the bottom of the Meerkat.

2. Use the remaining four screws to attach the VESA mounting plate, using the arrow to guide the orientation.

3. Insert the two shoulder screws in the Meerkat into the two holes in the mounting plate (highlighted cyan above), then set the Meerkat down so it hangs on the mounting plate.
   • The Meerkat can be mounted in either direction.

nebula19 (nebula19-1)

• External Overview
• Parts & Assembly

The System76 nebula19 is a desktop chassis (for DIY builds) with the following specifications:

• Dimensions
  • Size: 32.7cm × 20.7cm × 29.1cm
  • Volume: 19 litres
• Motherboard sizes
  • Mini-ITX
• GPU compatibility
  • Internal clearance: 278.175mm
  • Recommended maximum length: 268.175mm
• Cooling capacity
  • 2x 92mm CPU fans
    • Rear exhaust fan: Be Quiet! PUW2-9225-MR-PWM
    • CPU cooler (optional add-on): Noctua NH-U9S
      • Fan included with add-on: Noctua NF-A9 PWM
  • 1x 140mm bottom intake fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-14025-LF-PWM
  • 1x 120mm side intake fan (optional add-on): Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
• Daughterboards
  • Nebula Io power button controller board
  • MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board
  • Thelio Io SATA 2.5" drive backplane (optional add-on)

nebula19 (External Overview)

Front/back overview:

Left/right side overview:

Top/bottom overview:

nebula19 (Parts & Assembly)

The nebula19 chassis is ready to be outfitted with standard personal computer components. If the system has already been built, ensure the system is powered off and all cables are unplugged from the motherboard, PCIe cards, power supply, and front I/O before opening the chassis.

The preinstalled velcro strips are left partially unwrapped to aid in removal. When building the system, you can optionally wrap the velcro up the rest of the way.

• Replacing the front accent strip
• Removing the top case
• Removing the CPU duct
• Unpacking the included accessories
• Installing/removing the side fan bracket
• Installing the motherboard
• Installing the CPU duct fans
• Installing the GPU
• Installing the SATA backplane
• Installing 2.5" drives
• Installing the bottom case fan
• Installing side intake fan
• Installing the power supply
• Wiring the front I/O and power button

Replacing the front accent strip:

nebula19 includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

• Tools required: None

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

1. Place the nebula19 on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
   • The nebula19 can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
   • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)

Steps to remove the top case:

1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

2. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct supports one or more of the CPU fans and guides airflow from the side of the case through the CPU radiator to the back exhaust vent. The CPU duct is custom-designed to work with the Noctua NH-U9S CPU cooler that's optionally included with nebula19.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
2. Unscrew the two side screws holding the CPU duct onto the top crossbar.

3. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct onto the chassis.
   • Hold onto the duct while removing the final screw so it doesn't fall.

4. Pull the CPU duct out of the chassis.
5. When replacing the CPU duct, ensure all fan cables are plugged into the fan splitter board in the top right of the chassis.

Unpacking the included accessories:

nebula19 includes the following components preinstalled:

• 1x nebula_io power button controller board
• 1x MYS7523 top I/O board
• 2x four-pin fan splitter boards
• 1x back CPU duct fan
  • Be Quiet! Pure Wings 2 92mm (BQ PUW2-9225-MR-PWM)
• 2x short velcro straps
  • 1x on the side of the chassis
  • 1x on the side fan bracket

In addition, nebula19 ships with the following non-installed accessories:

• 1x Screw and velcro box
  • 8x short velcro straps
  • 1x long velcro strap
  • 4x motherboard standoffs
  • 4x M3 (motherboard) screws
  • 4x fan screws
• 1x Bottom case fan
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 140mm (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM)
• 1x CPU cooler w/ fan (optional)
  • Noctua NH-U9S cooler w/ NF-A9 PWM fan
• 1x Side bracket fan (optional)
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)

Steps to unpack the included accessories:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case and remove the CPU duct.
2. Remove the accessory boxes from the chassis.

3. Open the accessory boxes as needed.

Installing/removing the side fan bracket:

The side fan bracket provides a mounting point for an extra intake fan, such as the optional BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM.

If no optional accessories were ordered with the nebula19, then the side fan bracket will ship preinstalled. If optional accessories were included in the order, then they will ship inside of the chassis, and the side fan bracket will ship in a separate box. It can be installed after assembling the rest of the computer.

The fan splitter on the side fan bracket can be used for the side intake fan installed on the side fan bracket as well as the bottom chassis intake fan.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to unpack and install the side fan bracket:

1. Remove the top case and unpack the included accessories.
2. Cut the tape of the side fan bracket box and remove the side fan bracket and screw bag from the box.

3. Screw the side fan bracket into the system using the four M3 screws included with the side fan bracket.
   • The fan splitter board should be on the right side (with the dual headers facing outwards) and the rockets should point upwards.

Steps to remove the side fan bracket:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side fan bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

3. Pull the side fan bracket out of the chassis.

Installing the motherboard:

nebula19 supports the following standard motherboard sizes:

• Mini-DTX
• Mini-ITX

Four standoffs and motherboard screws are included.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the motherboard:

1. If they are installed, remove the top case, remove the CPU duct and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Locate the standoffs and M3 screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

3. Insert the four standoffs into the holes in the chassis.

4. Install the motherboard's I/O shield onto the back of the chassis by pressing it into place from the inside.
5. Place the motherboard into the chassis, aligning the motherboard's screw holes with the installed standoffs.
6. Screw the motherboard into the standoffs using the M3 screws.

Installing the CPU duct fans:

nebula19 ships with one 92mm fan (BQ PUW2-9225-MR-PWM) installed in the back of the CPU duct. If you install a CPU cooler with its own 92mm fan, such as the optional Noctua NH-U9S cooler sold with nebula19 (which includes a Noctua NF-A9 PWM fan), then the CPU cooler's fan can be mounted in the front of the CPU duct.

These instructions use the Noctua NH-U9S as an example.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the CPU cooler fan (front):

1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
2. Remove the fan screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

3. Remove the NH-U9S from the box.

4. Remove the included NF-F12 fan from the cooler heatsink by pulling the metal tabs (highlighted green above) off of the heatsink and fan.
5. Install the cooler onto the motherboard/processor.
6. Remove the front fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted green below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

7. Place the spinning side of the down up and the stationary cover up, then orient the fan so the wire points towards the top left (and the fan cover's logo sticker is upside-down).
   • The wire can be oriented in other directions if desired for cable management purposes, as long as the wire is able to reach the fan splitter board after the fan is installed.
8. Place the fan bracket over the fan so the thinnest side is on the right.
9. Screw in the four fan screws.
   • It may take some force to thread the fan screws into the fan's plastic frame.

10. Place the CPU duct fan and bracket into the CPU duct, with the thinnest side of the bracket pointed into the duct.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face the front of the chassis, while the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis.
11. Replace the screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU duct.
    • The front and back brackets face in opposite directions from each other.

Steps to replace the preinstalled CPU duct fan (back):

1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
2. Remove the back fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted yellow below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

3. Unscrew the four fan screws holding the fan onto the bracket.

4. When reinstalling the fan, the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis, and the wire should face the upper interior corner of the chassis (with the fan cover's logo upside-down). The thinnest side of the bracket should face directly into the duct.
   • The wire can be oriented in other directions if desired for cable management purposes, as long as the wire is able to reach the fan splitter board after the fan and CPU cooler heatsink are installed.

Installing the GPU:

nebula19 supports GPUs up to 278.175mm long. For optimal cooling and ease of installation, GPUs longer than 268.175mm are not recommended.

These instructions also apply to other PCI Express cards, such as add-in sound cards or networking cards.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the GPU:

1. If not already installed, install the motherboard.
   • If the motherboard is already installed and the system is assembled, then remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Unscrew the two screws holding the PCIe bracket onto the chassis, then remove the bracket.

3. Remove a PCIe slot cover for each slot the new GPU will take up.
   • Additional slot covers may fall off after removing the PCIe brakcet; hold them up when replacing the bracket.
4. Install the GPU into the motherboard.
5. Replace the PCIe bracket, which will hold the end of the GPU in place.

Installing the SATA backplane:

nebula19 is designed to work with an optional SATA backplane to allow for easy hot-swapping of 2.5" storage drives. The SATA backplane can be seen below.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the SATA backplane:

1. Remove the top case.
   • The side fan bracket can also be removed for easier access to the SATA backplane screws and wiring.
2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

3. If the SATA backplane's screw holes are covered by a translucent film, remove the film.
4. Place the SATA backplane into the 2.5" drive cage, with the SATA0 label facing the front of the chassis.

5. Screw the backplane into the drive cage from the bottom using the four included M3 screws.
   • Remember to turn the screwdriver counterclockwise instead of clockwise if you're looking at the screws from the top. Alternatively, the system can be placed on its side for easier access to the screw holes.

6. Connect the white POWER0 header on the back of the SATA backplane to the power supply, and the black DATA0 and DATA1 ports to two of the motherboard's SATA ports.
   • The POWER0 header uses a four-pin Berg connector, also known as a floppy drive power connector.
7. Install any 2.5" SATA drives and replace the drive cage cover, side fan bracket (if necessary), and top case.

Installing 2.5" drives:

The drive cage can hold two 2.5" drives. Drives of 7.5mm, 9mm, or 15mm are supported. Airflow will decrease below recommended levels with drives larger than 15mm.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install 2.5" drives:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

3. Remove the plastic ring from the top crossbar and slide out four screws for each drive being installed.
4. Insert two screws into each side of the 2.5" drive, then slide the drive into the drive cage, aligning the rubber mounts on the screws around the metal of the drive cage.
   • The larger portion of the SATA connector (the power section) should be at the top, while the smaller portion (the data section) should be at the bottom.
5. If the optional SATA backplane is not present, connect the SATA data and power cables from the bottom of the drive cage.
   • A cutout in the chassis allows easy access to the bottom of the drive cage.

Installing the bottom case fan:

The case includes a 140mm Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM fan (not installed by default).

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

1. Remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Remove the fan, dust filter, and fan screws from the 140mm fan box.

3. Set the machine down on its side.
4. Line the components up over the fan screw holes.
   • The dust filter should have the shiny side facing the chassis.
   • The fan should have the stationary cover facing upwards and the wire facing the front-interior corner of the machine.
     • The wire can be passed through a cable management hole in the front-interior corner of the machine.
5. Screw in the bottom fan from the bottom of the chassis.

Installing side intake fan:

nebula19 supports one 120mm side intake fan mounted to the side fan bracket. A 120mm Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) is available as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

Steps to install the side intake fan:

1. Remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Unpack the fan, dust filter, and fan screws from the fan box.

3. Place the dust filter and fan in the desired position along the side fan bracket.
   • The shiny side of the dust filter should face the side fan bracket.
   • The spinning side of the fan should face outward, while the stationary label should face inward.
   • The fan wire should be oriented towards the fan splitter board on the side fan bracket.
4. From the back, screw the fan screws through the side fan bracket and into the fan.
5. Plug the side fan into one of the headers on the side fan bracket's fan splitter board. The nearby velcro strap can be used to hold the fan's cable.

6. Replace the side fan bracket and top case.

Installing the power supply:

The system supports standard SFX power supplies. nebula19 includes a dust filter installed over the power supply's fan vent.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the power supply:

1. Remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Place the power supply into the chassis with the fan facing down.
3. While holding the power supply against the back of the chassis, screw in the four power supply screws.
   • Power supply screws are typically included with the power supply, and are not included with nebula19.

Steps to replace the power supply dust filter:

1. Remove the top case and remove the power supply.
2. Unscrew the four screws holding the dust filter onto the chassis.

3. Remove, clean, and replace the dust filter.

Wiring the front I/O and power button:

nebula19 comes standard with two front daughterboards:

• The nebula-io_2.2 power button controller.
• The MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board.

The Nebula Io board can be used to power the system on when the top case is removed.

Both daughterboards can be removed and replaced if necessary. The external power button attached to the top case can also be replaced.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to wire the front I/O and power button:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Refer to the below diagram for powering the machine on or removing and replacing either daughterboard:
   • The front I/O board screws are highlighted in green.
   • The power button controller board screws are highlighted in red.
   • The internal power button is highlighted in cyan.

3. Refer to the below diagram for wiring the front I/O and power button (the CPU duct and top crossbar have been removed for easier visibility):
   • The USB Type-C port cable (highlighted green) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.1 header.
   • The audio cable (highlighted yellow) connects to the motherboard's analog audio header.
   • The USB Type-A port cable (highlighted cyan) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.0 header.
   • The Nebula Io PMB1 header (highlighted red) connects to the motherboard's power button header.
     • The red wire should be on the right.
   • The Nebula Io PFP1 header (highlighted pink) connects to the power button receptacle.
     • The red wire should be on the right.
   • The power button receptacle header (highlighted orange) connects to the Nebula Io board.
     • The red wire should be on the left.

Steps to replace the power button:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

nebula36 (nebula36-1)

• External Overview
• Parts & Assembly

The System76 nebula36 is a desktop chassis (for DIY builds) with the following specifications:

• Dimensions
  • Size: 43.6cm × 25.3cm × 31.9cm
  • Volume: 36 liters
• Motherboard sizes
  • ATX
  • Mini-DTX
  • DTX
  • MicroATX
  • Mini-ITX
• GPU compatibility
  • Internal clearance: 318.80mm
  • Recommended maximum length: 308.80mm
• Cooling capacity
  • 2x 120mm CPU fans
    • Rear exhaust fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
    • CPU cooler (optional add-on): Noctua NH-U12S
      • Fan included with add-on: Noctua NF-F12 PWM
  • 1x 140mm bottom intake fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-14025-LF-PWM
  • 2x 120mm side intake fans
    • Optional add-on: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
• Daughterboards
  • Nebula Io power button controller board
  • MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board
  • Thelio Io SATA 2.5" drive backplane (optional add-on)

nebula36 (External Overview)

Front/back overview:

Left/right side overview:

Top/bottom overview:

nebula36 (Parts & Assembly)

The nebula36 chassis is ready to be outfitted with standard personal computer components. If the system has already been built, ensure the system is powered off and all cables are unplugged from the motherboard, PCIe cards, power supply, and front I/O before opening the chassis.

The preinstalled velcro strips are left partially unwrapped to aid in removal. When building the system, you can optionally wrap the velcro up the rest of the way.

• Replacing the front accent strip
• Removing the top case
• Removing the side fan bracket
• Removing the CPU duct
• Unpacking the included accessories
• Installing the motherboard
• Installing the CPU duct fans
• Installing the GPU
• Installing the SATA backplane
• Installing 2.5" drives
• Replacing the bottom case fan
• Installing side intake fans
• Installing the power supply
• Wiring the front I/O and power button

Replacing the front accent strip:

nebula36 includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

• Tools required: None

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

1. Place the nebula36 on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
   • The nebula36 can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
   • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)

Steps to remove the top case:

1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

2. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the side fan bracket:

The side fan bracket provides a mounting point to help keep installed GPUs (or other PCI Express cards) in place while transporting the system. It can also be used to mount up to two extra intake fans (one, a BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM, is optional when purchasing the chassis; a second is not included.)

The fan splitter on the side fan bracket is intended for fans mounted on the side fan bracket, and should not be used for the CPU duct fans or the bottom intake fan.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the side fan bracket:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side fan bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

3. Pull the side fan bracket out of the chassis.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct supports one or more of the CPU fans and guides airflow from the side of the case through the CPU radiator to the back exhaust vent. The CPU duct is custom-designed to work with the Noctua NH-U12S CPU cooler, which is available as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
2. Unscrew the two side screws holding the CPU duct onto the top crossbar.

3. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct onto the chassis.
   • Hold onto the duct while removing the final screw so it doesn't fall.

4. Pull the CPU duct out of the chassis.
5. When replacing the CPU duct, ensure all fan cables are plugged into one of the fan splitter boards in the top right of the chassis.

Unpacking the included accessories:

nebula36 includes the following components preinstalled:

• 1x nebula_io power button controller board
• 1x MYS7523 top I/O board
• 3x four-pin fan splitter boards
• 1x back CPU duct fan
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)
• 1x bottom case fan
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 140mm (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM)
• 7x short velcro straps
  • 1x on the front of the chassis
  • 3x on the side of the chassis
  • 1x on the bottom of the chassis
  • 1x on the CPU duct
  • 1x on the side fan bracket

In addition, nebula36 ships with the following non-installed accessories:

• 1x Screw and velcro box
  • 15x short velcro straps
  • 1x long velcro strap
  • 9x motherboard standoffs
  • 9x M3 (motherboard) screws
  • 4x fan screws
• 1x CPU cooler w/ fan (optional)
  • Noctua NH-U12S w/ NF-F12 PWM fan
• 1x Side bracket fan (optional)
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)

Steps to unpack the included accessories:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side fan bracket, and remove the CPU duct.
2. Cut the zip ties holding the accessory boxes in place.
   • The image below highlights where the zip ties are joined; they can be cut anywhere, but must be cut between a joint and the chassis in order to be removed.

3. Remove the accessory boxes from the chassis.

Installing the motherboard:

nebula36 supports the following standard motherboard sizes:

• ATX
• Mini-DTX
• DTX
• MicroATX
• Mini-ITX

Nine standoffs and motherboard screws are included.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the motherboard:

1. If they are installed, remove the top case, remove the CPU duct and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Locate the standoffs and M3 screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

3. Insert the standoffs into the appropriate holes for your motherboard size. The standoff screw holes are marked with shapes on the chassis, which correspond to the most common motherboard sizes:

   • Mini-ITX and Mini-DTX: hexagon (4 standoffs)
   • MicroATX: square (9 standoffs)
   • ATX: triangle (9 standoffs)

   The photo below also includes symbols for one additional motherboard size:

   • DTX: star (6 standoffs)

4. Install the motherboard's I/O shield onto the back of the chassis by pressing it into place from the inside.
5. Place the motherboard into the chassis, aligning the motherboard's screw holes with the installed standoffs.
6. Screw the motherboard into the standoffs using the M3 screws.

Installing the CPU duct fans:

nebula36 ships with one 120mm fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) installed in the back of the CPU duct. If you install a CPU cooler with its own fan, such as the optional Noctua NH-U12S cooler sold with nebula36 (which includes a Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan), then the CPU cooler's fan can be mounted in the front of the CPU duct.

These instructions use the Noctua NH-U12S as an example.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the CPU cooler fan (front):

1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
2. Remove the fan screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

3. Remove the NH-U12S from the box.

4. Remove the included NF-F12 fan from the cooler heatsink by pulling the metal tabs (highlighted green above) off of the heatsink and fan.
5. Install the cooler onto the motherboard/processor.
6. Remove the front fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted green below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

7. Place the spinning side of the fan down and the stationary cover up, then orient the fan so the wire points towards the bottom right.
8. Place the fan bracket over the fan so the thinnest side is on the left.
9. Screw in the four fan screws.
   • It may take some force to thread the fan screws into the fan's plastic frame.

10. Place the CPU duct fan and bracket into the CPU duct, with the thinnest side of the bracket pointed into the duct.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face the front of the chassis, while the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis.
11. Replace the screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU duct.
    • By default, the bracket is screwed as far back in the chassis (as farthest away from the L-shaped bend in the duct) as possible.

Steps to replace the preinstalled CPU duct fan (back):

1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
2. Remove the back fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted yellow below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

3. Unscrew the four fan screws holding the fan onto the bracket.

4. When reinstalling the fan, the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis, and the wire should face the upper interior corner of the CPU duct. The thinnest side of the bracket should face directly into the duct.
   • The wire can be run along the top of the fan until it meets the velcro strap.

Installing the GPU:

nebula36 supports GPUs up to 318.80mm long. For optimal cooling and ease of installation, GPUs longer than 308.80mm are not recommended.

These instructions also apply to other PCI Express cards, such as add-in sound cards or networking cards.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the GPU:

1. If not already installed, install the motherboard.
   • If the motherboard is already installed and the system is assembled, then remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Unscrew the two screws holding the PCIe bracket onto the chassis, then remove the bracket.

3. Remove a PCIe slot cover for each slot the new GPU will take up.
   • Additional slot covers may fall off after removing the PCIe brakcet; hold them up when replacing the bracket.
4. Install the GPU into the motherboard.
5. Replace the PCIe bracket, which will hold the end of the GPU in place.

Installing the SATA backplane:

nebula36 is designed to work with an optional SATA backplane to allow for easy hot-swapping of 2.5" storage drives. The SATA backplane can be seen below.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the SATA backplane:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

3. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage.

4. If the SATA backplane's screw holes are covered by a translucent film, remove the film.
5. Place the SATA backplane into the drive cage.
   • The backplane should be oriented so the power plug will be at the top of the board after installing the drive cage back into the chassis.
6. Screw the backplane into the drive cage from the outside.

7. Screw the drive cage back onto the chassis.
8. Connect the POWER0 header on the back of the SATA backplane to the power supply, and the DATA0 and DATA1 ports to two of the motherboard's SATA ports.
   • The POWER0 header uses a four-pin Berg connector, also known as a floppy drive power connector.

9. Install any 2.5" SATA drives and replace the drive cage cover, side fan bracket (if necessary), and top case.

Installing 2.5" drives:

The drive cage can hold two 2.5" drives. Drives of 7.5mm, 9mm, or 15mm are supported. Airflow will decrease below recommended levels with drives larger than 15mm.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install 2.5" drives:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

3. Remove the plastic ring from the top crossbar and slide out four screws for each drive being installed.

4. Insert two screws into each side of the 2.5" drive, then slide the drive into the drive cage, aligning the rubber mounts on the screws around the metal of the drive cage.
   • The larger portion of the SATA connector (the power section) should be at the top, while the smaller portion (the data section) should be at the bottom.
5. If the optional SATA backplane is not present, connect the SATA data and power cables from the back of the drive cage.
   • A cutout in the chassis allows easy access to the back of the drive cage.

Replacing the bottom case fan:

The 140mm bottom case fan (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM) is preinstalled, but can be replaced if it becomes defective. The fan can also be removed to clean its dust filter.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

1. Remove the top case.
   • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the fan easier.
2. If the system is already assembled, unplug the fan from the fan splitter board or motherboard.
3. Set the machine down on its side and unscrew the four fan screws.

4. When reinstalling the fan, place the dust filter between the fan and the chassis with the shiny side facing the chassis.

Installing side intake fans:

nebula36 supports up to two 120mm side intake fans mounted to the side fan bracket. One 120mm fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) is sold as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

Steps to install the side intake fans:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unpack the fan and rubber mounting pins from the fan box.
   • The plastic rings included with the rubber mounting pins are not needed.

3. Place the fan in the center of the side fan bracket.
   • The spinning side of the fan should face outward, while the stationary label should face inward.
   • The preinstalled pinholes on the fan will line up with the long holes in the side fan bracket.
4. From the back (inside of the machine), insert the rubber mounting pins through the pinholes at each corner of the fan.
   • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the rubber mounting pins easier.

5. Plug the side fan into one of the headers on the side fan bracket's fan splitter board. The nearby velcro strap can be used to hold the fan's cable.

Installing the power supply:

The system supports standard ATX power supplies. nebula36 includes a dust filter installed over the power supply's fan vent.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the power supply:

1. Remove the top case.
   • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the power supply easier.
2. Place the power supply into the chassis with the fan facing down.
3. While holding the power supply against the back of the chassis, screw in the four power supply screws.
   • Power supply screws are typically included with the power supply, and are not included with nebula36.

Steps to replace the power supply dust filter:

1. Remove the top case and remove the power supply.
2. Unscrew the four screws holding the dust filter onto the chassis.

3. Remove, clean, and replace the dust filter.

Wiring the front I/O and power button:

nebula36 comes standard with two front daughterboards:

• The nebula-io_2.2 power button controller.
• The MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board.

The Nebula Io board can be used to power the system on when the top case is removed.

Both daughterboards can be removed and replaced if necessary. The external power button attached to the top case can also be replaced.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to wire the front I/O and power button:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Refer to the below diagram for powering the machine on or removing and replacing either daughterboard:
   • The front I/O board screws are highlighted in green.
   • The power button controller board screws are highlighted in red.
   • The internal power button is highlighted in cyan.

3. Refer to the below diagram for wiring the front I/O and power button (the CPU duct and top crossbar have been removed for easier visibility):
   • The USB Type-C port cable (highlighted green) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.1 header.
   • The audio cable (highlighted yellow) connects to the motherboard's analog audio header.
   • The USB Type-A port cable (highlighted cyan) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.0 header.
   • The Nebula Io PMB1 header (highlighted red) connects to the motherboard's power button header.
   • The Nebula Io PFP1 header (highlighted pink) connects to the power button receptacle.
   • The power button receptacle header (highlighted orange) connects to the Nebula Io board.

Steps to replace the power button:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

nebula49 (nebula49-1)

• External Overview
• Parts & Assembly

The System76 Nebula 49 is a desktop chassis (for DIY builds) with the following specifications:

• Dimensions
  • Size: 46.2cm × 26.2cm × 40.8cm
  • Volume: 49 litres
• Motherboard sizes
  • Extended ATX (up to 10.7")
  • ATX
  • Mini-DTX
  • DTX
  • Mini-ITX
• GPU compatibility
  • Internal clearance: 396.50mm
  • Recommended maximum length: 386.50mm
• Cooling capacity
  • 2x 120mm CPU fans
    • Rear exhaust fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
    • CPU cooler (optional add-on): Noctua NH-U12S
      • Fan included with add-on: Noctua NF-F12 PWM
  • 1x 140mm bottom intake fan: Be Quiet! SIW4-14025-HF-PWM
  • 2x 120mm side intake fans
    • Optional add-on: Be Quiet! SIW4-12025-MF-PWM
• Daughterboards
  • Nebula Io power button controller board
  • MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board
  • Thelio Io SATA 2.5" drive backplane (optional add-on)

nebula49 (External Overview)

Front/back overview:

Left/right side overview:

Top/bottom overview:

nebula49 (Parts & Assembly)

The nebula49 chassis is ready to be outfitted with standard personal computer components. If the system has already been built, ensure the system is powered off and all cables are unplugged from the motherboard, PCIe cards, power supply, and front I/O before opening the chassis.

The preinstalled velcro strips are left partially unwrapped to aid in removal. When building the system, you can optionally wrap the velcro up the rest of the way.

• Replacing the front accent strip
• Removing the top case
• Removing the side fan bracket
• Removing the CPU duct
• Unpacking the included accessories
• Installing the motherboard
• Installing the CPU duct fans
• Installing the GPU
• Installing the SATA backplane
• Installing 2.5" drives
• Replacing the bottom case fan
• Installing side intake fans
• Installing the power supply
• Wiring the front I/O and power button

Replacing the front accent strip:

nebula49 includes a customizable accent panel on the front of the case, which can be swapped to change the case's look and feel. The instructions for swapping the accent are also available in video form.

• Tools required: None

Steps to replace the front accent strip:

1. Place the nebula49 on the edge of the desk so the front side is hanging off of the desk.
   • The nebula49 can alternatively be lifted or tilted so the front of the computer is hovering above the desk.
2. Slide the accent strip down to unlock it.
   • The accent can be gripped at the bottom edge.
3. Pull the accent strip off of the case, starting with the bottom edge.
4. Place the new accent strip onto the front of the case and slide it up to lock it into place.

Removing the top case:

The top case can be removed to access the internal components.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver (optional)

Steps to remove the top case:

1. Remove the four outer screws holding the top case onto the machine.

2. Slide the top case up and off of the machine.

Removing the side fan bracket:

The side fan bracket provides a mounting point to help keep installed GPUs (or other PCI Express cards) in place while transporting the system. It can also be used to mount up to two extra intake fans (two BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM fans are optional when purchasing the chassis.)

The fan splitter on the side fan bracket is intended for fans mounted on the side fan bracket, and should not be used for the CPU duct fans or the bottom intake fan.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the side fan bracket:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
2. Unscrew the four screws holding the side fan bracket in place (two on the front of the case, two on the back.)

3. Pull the side fan bracket out of the chassis.

Removing the CPU duct:

The CPU duct supports one or more of the CPU fans and guides airflow from the side of the case through the CPU radiator to the back exhaust vent. The CPU duct is custom-designed to work with the Noctua NH-U12S CPU cooler that's included with nebula49.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to remove the CPU duct:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case.
2. Unscrew the two side screws holding the CPU duct onto the top crossbar.

3. Unscrew the four back screws holding the CPU duct onto the chassis.
   • Hold onto the duct while removing the final screw so it doesn't fall.

4. Pull the CPU duct out of the chassis.
5. When replacing the CPU duct, ensure all fan cables are plugged into one of the fan splitter boards in the top right of the chassis.

Unpacking the included accessories:

nebula49 includes the following components preinstalled:

• 1x nebula_io power button controller board
• 1x MYS7523 top I/O board
• 3x Four-pin fan splitter boards
• 1x Back CPU duct fan
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)
• 1x Bottom case fan
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 140mm (BQ SIW4-14025-HF-PWM)
• 4x Short velcro straps
  • 2x on the side of the chassis
  • 1x on the bottom of the chassis
  • 1x on the side fan bracket

In addition, nebula49 ships with the following non-installed accessories:

• 1x Screw and velcro box
  • 20x Short velcro straps
  • 1x Long velcro strap
  • 9x Motherboard standoffs
  • 9x M3 (motherboard) screws
  • 4x Fan screws
• 1x CPU cooler w/ fan (optional)
  • Noctua NH-U12S w/ NF-F12 PWM fan
• 2x side bracket fans (optional)
  • Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 120mm (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM)

Steps to unpack the included accessories:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the top case, remove the side fan bracket, and remove the CPU duct.
2. Cut the zip ties holding the accessory boxes in place.
   • The image below highlights where the zip ties are joined; they can be cut anywhere, but must be cut between a joint and the chassis in order to be removed.

3. Remove the accessory boxes from the chassis.

Installing the motherboard:

nebula49 supports the following standard motherboard sizes:

• Extended ATX (up to 10.7")
• ATX
• Mini-DTX
• DTX
• Mini-ITX

Nine standoffs and motherboard screws are included.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the motherboard:

1. If they are installed, remove the top case, remove the CPU duct and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Locate the standoffs and M3 screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

3. Insert the standoffs into the appropriate holes for your motherboard size. In the photo below, the standoff holes are labeled by color:
   • Mini-ITX and Mini-DTX: green
   • DTX: green and cyan
   • ATX and EATX: green, cyan, and red (all holes)

4. Install the motherboard's I/O shield onto the back of the chassis by pressing it into place from the inside.
5. Place the motherboard into the chassis, aligning the motherboard's screw holes with the installed standoffs.
6. Screw the motherboard into the standoffs using the M3 screws.

Installing the CPU duct fans:

nebula49 ships with one 120mm fan (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) installed in the back of the CPU duct. If you install a CPU cooler with its own fan, such as the optional Noctua NH-U12S cooler sold with nebula49 (which includes a Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan), then the CPU cooler's fan can be mounted in the front of the CPU duct.

These instructions use the Noctua NH-U12S as an example.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the CPU cooler fan (front):

1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
2. Remove the fan screws from the brown screw and velcro box.

3. Remove the NH-U12S from the box.

4. Remove the included NF-F12 fan from the cooler heatsink by pulling the metal tabs (highlighted green above) off of the heatsink and fan.
5. Install the cooler onto the motherboard/processor.
6. Remove the front fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted green below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

7. Place the spinning side of the fan down and the stationary cover up, then orient the fan so the wire points towards the bottom left.
8. Place the fan bracket over the fan so the thinnest side is on the right.
9. Screw in the four fan screws.
   • It may take some force to thread the fan screws into the fan's plastic frame.

10. Place the CPU duct fan and bracket into the CPU duct, with the thinnest side of the bracket pointed into the duct.
    • The spinning side of the fan should face the front of the chassis, while the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis.
11. Replace the screws holding the fan bracket onto the CPU duct.
    • By default, the bracket is screwed as far back in the chassis (as farthest away from the L-shaped bend in the duct) as possible.

Steps to replace the preinstalled CPU duct fan (back):

1. Remove the top case and the CPU duct.
2. Remove the back fan bracket from the CPU duct by unscrewing the four screws (highlighted yellow below) and pulling it out of the CPU duct.

3. Unscrew the four fan screws holding the fan onto the bracket.

4. When reinstalling the fan, the stationary cover should face the back of the chassis, and the wire should face the upper interior corner of the CPU duct. The thinnest side of the bracket should face directly into the duct.
   • The wire can be run along the top of the fan until it meets the velcro strap.

Installing the GPU:

nebula49 supports GPUs up to 396.50mm long. For optimal cooling and ease of installation, GPUs longer than 386.50mm are not recommended.

These instructions also apply to other PCI Express cards, such as add-in sound cards or networking cards.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the GPU:

1. If not already installed, install the motherboard.
   • If the motherboard is already installed and the system is assembled, then remove the top case and remove the side fan bracket.
2. Unscrew the two screws holding the PCIe bracket onto the chassis, then remove the bracket.

3. Remove a PCIe slot cover for each slot the new GPU will take up.
   • Additional slot covers may fall off after removing the PCIe brakcet; hold them up when replacing the bracket.
4. Install the GPU into the motherboard.
5. Replace the PCIe bracket, which will hold the end of the GPU in place.

Installing the SATA backplane:

Each 2.5" drive cage in nebula49 is designed to work with an optional SATA backplane to allow for easy hot-swapping of 2.5" storage drives. The SATA backplane can be seen below.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the SATA backplane:

Repeat the steps for each drive cage you're installing a SATA backplane into.

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

3. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage.

4. If the SATA backplane's screw holes are covered by a translucent film, remove the film.
5. Place the SATA backplane into the drive cage.
   • The backplane should be oriented so the power plug will be at the top of the board after installing the drive cage back into the chassis.
6. Screw the backplane into the drive cage from the outside.

7. Screw the drive cage back onto the chassis.
8. Connect the POWER0 header on the back of the SATA backplane to the power supply, and the DATA0 and DATA1 ports to two of the motherboard's SATA ports.
   • The POWER0 header uses a four-pin Berg connector, also known as a floppy drive power connector.

9. Install any 2.5" SATA drives and replace the drive cage cover, side fan bracket (if necessary), and top case.

Installing 2.5" drives:

nebula49 has two drive cages, which can each hold two 2.5" drives (for a total of four drives.) Drives of 7.5mm, 9mm, or 15mm are supported. Airflow will decrease below recommended levels with drives larger than 15mm.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install 2.5" drives:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unscrew and remove the 2.5" drive cage's cover.

3. Remove the plastic ring from the top crossbar and slide out four screws for each drive being installed.

4. Insert two screws into each side of the 2.5" drive, then slide the drive into the drive cage, aligning the rubber mounts on the screws around the metal of the drive cage.
   • The larger portion of the SATA connector (the power section) should be at the top, while the smaller portion (the data section) should be at the bottom.
5. If the optional SATA backplane is not present, connect the SATA data and power cables from the back of the drive cage.
   • A cutout in the chassis allows easy access to the back of the drive cage.

Replacing the bottom case fan:

The 140mm bottom case fan (BQ SIW4-14025-LF-PWM) is preinstalled, but can be replaced if it becomes defective. The fan can also be removed to clean its dust filter.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to replace the bottom case fan:

1. Remove the top case.
   • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the fan easier.
2. If the system is already assembled, unplug the fan from the fan splitter board or motherboard.
3. Set the machine down on its side and unscrew the four fan screws.

4. When reinstalling the fan, place the dust filter between the fan and the chassis with the shiny side facing the chassis.

Installing side intake fans:

nebula49 supports up to two 120mm side intake fans mounted to the side fan bracket. Two 120mm fans (BQ SIW4-12025-MF-PWM) are sold as an optional add-on at the time of purchase.

Steps to install the side intake fans:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Unpack the fan and rubber mounting pins from the fan box.
   • The plastic rings included with the rubber mounting pins are not needed.

3. Place the fan in the desired position along the side fan bracket.
   • The spinning side of the fan should face outward, while the stationary label should face inward.
   • The preinstalled pinholes on the fan will line up with the long holes in the side fan bracket.
4. From the back (inside of the machine), insert the rubber mounting pins through the pinholes at each corner of the fan.
   • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the rubber mounting pins easier.

5. Plug the side fan into one of the headers on the side fan bracket's fan splitter board. The nearby velcro strap can be used to hold the fan's cable.
6. Repeat the steps for a second fan, if desired.

Installing the power supply:

The system supports standard ATX power supplies. nebula49 includes a dust filter installed over the power supply's fan vent.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to install the power supply:

1. Remove the top case.
   • The side fan bracket can optionally be removed to make working with the power supply easier.
2. Place the power supply into the chassis with the fan facing down.
3. While holding the power supply against the back of the chassis, screw in the four power supply screws.
   • Power supply screws are typically included with the power supply, and are not included with nebula49.

Steps to replace the power supply dust filter:

1. Remove the top case and remove the power supply.
2. Unscrew the four screws holding the dust filter onto the chassis.

3. Remove, clean, and replace the dust filter.

Wiring the front I/O and power button:

nebula49 comes standard with two front daughterboards:

• The nebula-io_2.2 power button controller.
• The MYS7523 Rev. 2.0 front I/O board.

The Nebula Io board can be used to power the system on when the top case is removed.

Both daughterboards can be removed and replaced if necessary. The external power button attached to the top case can also be replaced.

• Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver

Steps to wire the front I/O and power button:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Refer to the below diagram for powering the machine on or removing and replacing either daughterboard:
   • The front I/O board screws are highlighted in green.
   • The power button controller board screws are highlighted in red.
   • The internal power button is highlighted in cyan.

3. Refer to the below diagram for wiring the front I/O and power button (the CPU duct and top crossbar have been removed for easier visibility):
   • The USB Type-C port cable (highlighted green) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.1 header.
   • The audio cable (highlighted yellow) connects to the motherboard's analog audio header.
   • The USB Type-A port cable (highlighted cyan) connects to the motherboard's USB 3.0 header.
   • The Nebula Io PMB1 header (highlighted red) connects to the motherboard's power button header.
   • The Nebula Io PFP1 header (highlighted pink) connects to the power button receptacle.
   • The power button receptacle header (highlighted orange) connects to the Nebula Io board.

Steps to replace the power button:

1. Remove the top case.
2. Follow the instructions in the Replace the Thelio Power Button support article.

Oryx Pro (oryp11)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Intel Core i9-13900H
• Chipset
  • Intel HM770
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • Dedicated GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
      • TGP: 115W (140W boost)
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
      • TGP: 115W (140W boost)
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050
      • TGP: 115W (140W boost)
  • Integrated GPU:
    • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display options:
    • 16" 1920x1200@165Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV160WUM-NX2 (or equivalent)
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 96GB (2x48GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX210/AX211
• Power
  • RTX 4050 model:
    • 180W (20.0V, 9A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1181-76
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • RTX 4060 and 4070 models:
    • 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1231-26
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • 73Wh 4-cell battery
    • Model number: NV40BAT-4-73
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 35.95cm x 27.3cm x 1.99cm, 2.7kg

Oryx Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle microphone mute
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Oryx Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
  • Webcam/microphone connector is underneath the heatsink
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in orange
  • LCD panel connector is underneath the heatsink
• Fan connectors are highlighted in cyan
• RAM is highlighted in dark green
• BIOS flash chip (U60) is highlighted in black
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Wireless card is highlighted in purple
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
• Battery connector is highlighted in red
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
  • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
  • CMOS battery is underneath SSD slot 2 (closest to the main battery)

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Left I/O ribbon is highlighted in red
• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in green

Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary.

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Oryx Pro 11 supports up to 96GB (2x48GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 only. The slots are backwards-compatible with PCIe NVMe Generation 3 drives, but the slots do not support SATA.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.
6. If you are using a slot for the first time, you can optionally remove the plastic backing from the thermal strip and apply it to the inner side of the bottom panel.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

The model number for the Oryx Pro 11's battery is NV40BAT-4-73, and the original part number is 6-87-NV4RS-71M00. Third-party battery sellers may list one or both of these numbers, and may offer other compatible part numbers with the same model number. You can also contact System76 to purchase a replacement battery.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the five silver battery screws along the perimeter of the battery.

3. Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
6. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Oryx Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (E-key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. Keeping the wireless card parallel with the motherboard, slide the card out of the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and, if installed, remove the SSD from slot 2 (closest to the main battery).

2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
3. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD in slot 2 (if necessary).
5. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Oryx Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Oryx Pro 11 uses two fans and a heatsink manufactured as a single assembly. The part number for the complete assembly is YINGFAN 6-31-PE60N-102. The part number for the left fan is WINMA EFC-92091S2-0BH; the part number for the right fan is WINMA EFC-90091S2-0BH.

If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler. It's recommended to replace the thermal paste whenever the heatsink is removed.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 40 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
3. Remove the heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped and stickered numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
   • Note: Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

4. Unplug the two fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted red above).
5. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU chips, GPU chip, and surrounding components, as well as the corresponding points on the heat sink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
   • Some thermal paste may already be on the motherboard around the VRAM chips, or may get onto the motherboard while cleaning the paste off of the chips. Thermal paste is typically not conductive; it's safer to leave excess paste on the board than to risk damaging the board with rough removal.

7. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto both CPU chips, the GPU chip, the three Samsung VRAM chips, and the twelve R15 chips.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the silver heatsink and fan screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
10. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Unscrew the speaker screws and lift the speaker out of the machine.
   • The right speaker has three screws; the left speaker has two screws.
   • The speaker wire may be partially routed through channels in the chassis; be careful when removing it.
4. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
12. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
13. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Pangolin (pang13)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Pangolin is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports AMD Ryzen (Rembrandt) Mobile CPUs
    • Ryzen 7 7735U
• BIOS
  • Winbond W25R256JW flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
• EC
  • ITE IT5571
    • Programmed with non-open EC firmware
• Graphics
  • GPU: AMD Radeon 680M
  • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
    • LCD panel: Innolux N156HRA-EA1 (or equivalent)
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.0
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • 32GB LPDDR5 (on-board) @ 6400 MHz
    • 16x Micron MT62F2G32D8DR-031 (2GB each)
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Mediatek MT7921K
• Power
  • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: ShenZhen SOY-1900474
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
  • 70Wh 3-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: 628467-3S1P
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • SD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
    • Does not support Thunderbolt
  • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 1.80cm x 37.06cm x 24.79cm, 1.79kg