Introduction

System76 provides laptops, desktops, servers, and accessories. This book contains technical documentation for System76 hardware. The source can be viewed on GitHub.

Current Models

• Adder WS (addw3)
• Bonobo WS (bonw15)
• Darter Pro (darp8)
• Galago Pro (galp6)
• Gazelle (gaze18)
• Kudu (kudu6)
• Launch (launch_2)
• Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_1)
• Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)
• Lemur Pro (lemp12)
• Meerkat (meer6)
• Oryx Pro (oryp10)
• Oryx Pro (oryp9)
• Pangolin (pang12)
• Serval WS (serw13)
• Thelio (thelio-b4)
• Thelio Major (thelio-major-r3)
• Thelio Massive (thelio-massive-b1.2)
• Thelio Mega (thelio-mega-r1.0)
• Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-b1.0)
• Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r3.0)

Previous Models

• Adder WS (addw2)
• Adder WS (addw1)
• Bonobo WS (bonw14)
• Darter Pro (darp7)
• Darter Pro (darp6)
• Galago Pro (galp5)
• Galago Pro (galp4)
• Gazelle (gaze17)
• Gazelle (gaze16)
• Gazelle (gaze15)
• Launch (launch_1)
• Lemur Pro (lemp11)
• Lemur Pro (lemp10)
• Lemur Pro (lemp9)
• Meerkat (meer5)
• Oryx Pro (oryp8)
• Oryx Pro (oryp7)
• Oryx Pro (oryp6)
• Pangolin (pang11)
• Pangolin (pang10)
• Serval WS (serw12)
• Thelio Major (thelio-major-b1/b2/r1/r2)
• Thelio Mira (thelio-mira-r1.0)

Adder WS (addw3)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Adder WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i9-13900HX
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050
  • eDP display:
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-N4K (or equivalent)
    • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • BOE NV173FHM-N4C
        • BOE NE173FHM-NX1
        • BOE NV173FHM-NY2
        • ...or other equivalent
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.3
• Power
  • 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
    • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-280P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSDs
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 (Type C)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 (Type A)
  • 1x USB 2.0
• Dimensions
  • 15": 2.71cm x 35.95cm x 23.8cm, 2.05kg
  • 17": 2.82cm x 39.69cm x 26.2cm, 2.85kg

Adder WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators

The Adder WS has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Adder WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Adder WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• LCD panel connector (under the heatsink) is highlighted in light green
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
• RAM slots are highlighted in navy
• Fan connectors are highlighted in red
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• Wireless card is highlighted in purple
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
  • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
• BIOS flash chip (U65) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard adhesive strip access point is highlighted in cyan
• Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red

Adder WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Adder WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the keyboard
• Replacing the speakers

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Adder WS 3 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the four battery screws near the corners of the battery.
   • Also remove any clear tape hanging onto the battery from the fan wires.

3. Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove and replace the battery.
5. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the bottom, and the black wire goes on the top.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Adder WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the outermost SSD.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the outermost SSD is optional.

2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
3. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
5. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Adder WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Adder WS 3 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
   • Some tape may be underneath the heatsink; it can alternatively be removed after removing the heatsink.
3. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
   • The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
   • Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

4. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted yellow above).
5. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
10. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Warning: The keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is possible that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Hard ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
   • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
   • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
     • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
   • Pull the adhesive strip slowly to avoid breaking it. Grasp farther down the strip as it comes out of the machine (don't pull the end far away from the machine.)
   • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red below) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
15. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the left speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
2. Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.
   • The latches may be covered by clear tape; peel back or remove the tape.

3. Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
   • The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
4. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

5. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
6. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
7. Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
8. Replace the main battery and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
   • The outermost SSD can optionally be removed for easier access to the speaker connector.
2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Pull the speaker off of the plastic posts.
4. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
5. Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Bonobo WS (bonw15)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Bonobo WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i9-13900HX
• Chipset
  • Intel HM770 Express
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090
      • TGP: 150W (175W boost)
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080
      • TGP: 150W (175W boost)
  • eDP display options:
    • 17.3" 3840x2160@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NE173QUM-NY1 (or equivalent)
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 2x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
• Networking
  • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.1
• Power
  • 330W (19.5V, 16.42A) DC-in ports
    • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A20-330P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • 99Wh 8-cell Lithium-Ion battery
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 3x M.2 PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• USB
  • 2x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 2.49cm x 39.6cm x 27.8cm, 3.29kg

Bonobo WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators

The Bonobo WS has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Bonobo WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Bonobo WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
• Wireless card is highlighted in navy
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • All slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
  • Left speaker connector (on the right) is under SSD slot 3
• BIOS flash chip (U58) is highlighted in black
• Main battery connector is highlighted in red
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• RAM is highlighted in maroon

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connectors are highlighted in green
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in cyan

Bonobo WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Bonobo WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives or Kensington locks) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.

3. Slide the back strip off the back of the machine.

4. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the back.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the four screws along the top of the battery.

3. Unplug the white connector connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove the battery, starting from the top edge with screw holes.
5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the bottom edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
6. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the RAM:

The Bonobo WS 15 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to three M.2 SSDs. All M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Bonobo WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Hold the card down and replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the comptuer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
   • If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.

3. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery.
5. Replace the SSDs and wireless card (if necessary) and the bottom panel.
6. Power up the Bonobo WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Bonobo WS 13 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
2. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
   • Screws #1-#12 are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. Screw #13 is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
   • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

3. Remove any clear tape covering the fan wires.
   • The tape covering the wireless card antennas may also need to be removed.
4. Unplug the black fan connectors from the motherboard.
5. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
10. Plug the black fan connectors back into the motherboard and (optionally) replace the clear tape.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the left speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove any SSDs present in slots 2 and 3.
2. Remove the two screws holding the audio daugherboard onto the chassis, then flip the audio daughterboard over towards the motherboard.

3. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

4. Unscrew the two speaker screws, free the speaker wire from the channels in the chassis, and remove the speaker.
5. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
6. Replace the audio daughterboard and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Unscrew the two speaker screws and remove the speaker.
4. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard.
5. Replace the bottom cover.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard includes per-key RGB LED backlighting, and can be replaced using the instructions below.

Warning: Removing the keyboard may cause permanent aesthetic damage to the underside of the keyboard, particularly if the adhesive strip is not fully removed first. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver; tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
   • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
   • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
     • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
   • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The largest ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cables are for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
15. Replace the bottom cover.

Darter Pro (darp8)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Darter Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 12th Generation (Alder Lake) CPUs
    • Core i7-1260P
    • Core i5-1240P
• BIOS
  • GD25B256E flash chip
    • SOIC-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
    • LCD panel options:
      • AUO B156HAN02.5
      • BOE NV156FHM-N4H
      • or other equivalent
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4b over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
• Power
  • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
  • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-ion battery
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 1.99cm x 35.7cm x 22.05cm, 1.74kg

Darter Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged

Keyboard shortcuts:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
/	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
-	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
+	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Darter Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• RAM slots are highlighted in purple
• Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
• Fan connector is highlighted in red
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in orange
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
  • Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
• Main battery connector is highlighted in cyan
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in brown
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Lid switch/sensor connector is highlighted in olive
• BIOS flash chip (U19) is highlighted in black

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in red
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in yellow
• Lid switch/sensor to motherboard connector is highlighted in cyan

Darter Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Darter Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the keyboard
• Replacing the battery

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws:
   • 12 perimeter screws (thin), highlighted green below.
   • 2 keyboard screws (thick), highlighted yellow.
   • 2 inner hinge screws (thick), highlighted red.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Darter Pro 8 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
   • SSD-1 is closest to the battery (pictured on the left.)
   • SSD-2 is closest to the outer edge of the machine (on the right.)

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.
6. If a square thermal pad was present on the old drive, transfer it to the new drive.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Darter Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

3. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, remove SSD-1 to expose the CMOS battery, then pull it away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
4. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
6. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Darter Pro 8 has a single fan and heatsink to cool the CPU. The fan and heatsink are a single part (they should not be replaced separately from one another.)

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Peel back the black tape holding the fan to the chassis, and remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.
3. Unplug the black fan connector.
   • This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.
4. Remove the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

5. Remove the fan and heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the seven heatsink/fan screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #7.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the two keyboard screws (highlighted yellow below).

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted cyan above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
12. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
13. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.

3. Remove the battery.
   • The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
   • A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
   • If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
     • Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
     • Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.

4. Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.

Galago Pro (galp6)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Galago Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 12th Generation (Alder Lake-U) CPUs
    • Core i7-1260P
    • Core i5-1240P
• BIOS
  • Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU options:
    • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display: 14.1" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
    • LCD panel: Panda LM140LF2L02 (or equivalent)
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
• Power
  • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A16-090P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • USB-C charging compatible with 90W+ charger
  • 53Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
  • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
  • SD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 (Gen 2) Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 (Gen 1) Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 32.49cm x 22.5cm x 1.82cm, 1.45kg

Galago Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators

The Galago Pro has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Galago Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F4	Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Galago Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• RAM slots are highlighted in purple
• M.2 SSD is highlighted in maroon
• Wireless card is highlighted in yellow
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in pink
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• BIOS flash chip (U43) is highlighted in black
• Fan connectors are highlighted in red
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in dark green
• Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in green
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
• EC chip is highlighted in cyan
  • ITE IT5570E-128 2205-EXA 1A1RB

Galago Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Galago Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Removing the battery
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 14 bottom panel screws.
   • The two hinge corner screws (highlighted red below) are slightly thicker than the rest.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges and vents in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.

3. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted cyan above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the RAM:

The Galago Pro 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports one M.2 SSD of size 2280, PCIe NVMe Generation 4 (or Generation 3).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Galago Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.

3. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green above.)
4. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery and main battery, and replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
6. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the battery and remove the SSD.
2. Unscrew the speaker screws.
   • Each speaker has two screws, which are set inside of rubber rings to reduce vibration.

3. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard and lift the speaker out of the machine.
   • The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
4. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the SSD and battery (if necessary) and bottom panel.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Galago Pro 6 has a single heatsink with two fans for the CPU and integrated GPU. Both fans are separate from the heatsink and can be replaced independently.

If a fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
3. Unplug the white fan connector (highlighted below) for each fan you are removing from the system.

4. Remove the two fan screws (highlighted green above) for each fan you are removing.
5. Replace the fans, screw in the two fan screws for each fan, and plug the white fan connectors into the system.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the fan closest to the CPU.
   • Removing the fan is optional, but is recommended to ensure the fan properly overlaps the heatsink's air guide after reinstallation.
2. Remove the four heatsink screws (highlighted cyan below) in order, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #4.

3. Remove the heatsink from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
4. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

5. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each die of the CPU chip.

6. Carefully replace the heatsink.
7. Replace the four heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until #4.
8. Replace the fans and bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the two keyboard screws, highlighted green below.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine upright and flip the keyboard down onto the touchpad. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches away from the white connectors to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
12. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
13. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Gazelle (gaze18)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Gazelle is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel Raptor Lake CPUs
    • Intel i9-13900H
• Chipset
  • Intel HM770
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • Dedicated GPU:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
      • TGP: 70W (95W boost)
  • Integrated GPU:
    • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display:
    • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • BOE NV173FHM-N4C
        • BOE NE173FHM-NX1
        • BOE NV173FHM-NY2
        • BOE NE173QHM-NY3
        • ...or other equivalent
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel options:
        • BOE NV156FHM-N4K
        • BOE NV156FHM-NX4
        • BOE NE156QHM-NY5
        • Innolux N156HCE-EN1
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
    • Realtek RTL8111H
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
• Power
  • 150W DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: LiteOn PA-1151-76
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • 54Wh 4-cell battery (model number NP50BAT-4-54)
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • Does not support DisplayPort over USB-C, USB-C charging (USB-PD), or Thunderbolt
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 15": 35.95cm x 23.8cm x 2.27cm, 1.99kg
  • 17": 39.69cm x 26.2cm x 2.5cm, 2.41kg

Gazelle (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

The Gazelle has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

The Gazelle has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Gazelle (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
• Fan connectors are highlighted in red
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in cyan
• Main battery connector is highlighted in orange
• Wireless card is highlighted in blue
• RAM is highlighted in maroon
• BIOS flash chip (U24) is highlighted in black
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • Innermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • Outermost slot supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in purple

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in green
• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red

Gazelle (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Gazelle can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the keyboard
• Replacing the speakers

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 13 bottom panel screws.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from over the ports in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Gazelle 18 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Pull the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. The inner-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4, and the outer-most slot supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Gazelle's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver Time estimate: 8 minutes Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the five battery screws, highlighted yellow below.

3. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted red above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the outermost M.2 drive, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, this step is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.
3. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.

4. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery.
6. Reconnect the main battery, replace the M.2 SSD, and replace the bottom cover.
7. Power up the Gazelle. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Gazelle 18 includes two fans as part of a single heatsink/fan assembly.

If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape that is securing the fan wires.
3. Remove the silver heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
   • Note: Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

4. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
5. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
6. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

7. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto both CPU chips and the GPU chip.

8. Carefully replace the heatsink.
9. Replace the silver heatsink and fan screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
10. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the keyboard adhesive strip at the edge of the motherboard underneath the right fan's heatsink pipe, highlighted green below.
   • You can optionally remove the heatsink to make the adhesive easier to grasp. Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the heatsink is removed.

3. Using a pair of tweezers to reach the end of the strip (if necessary), pull out the end of the keyboard adhesive strip to stretch and detatch it.
4. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
5. Push a screwdriver into the keyboard push point (next to the RAM slot) until the keyboard pops out.

6. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

7. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
8. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
9. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
10. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
11. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the bottom cover.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the left speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the main battery.
2. Flip the black latches up to release both sides of the I/O daughterboard ribbon cable from the motherboard and the I/O daughterboard.

3. Peel the ribbon cable away from the chassis.
   • The ribbon cable is adhered to the chassis. Pull slowly to avoid damage.
4. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

5. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts, and free the speaker wire from any tape and channels in the chassis.
6. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
7. Reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard and I/O daughterboard, then flip the black latches to secure both connections.
8. Replace the main battery and bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
   • The outermost SSD can optionally be removed to make it easier to work with the speaker plug.
2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Pull the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.
4. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.
5. Replace the SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Kudu (kudu6)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Kudu is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports AMD Ryzen (Cezanne) Mobile CPUs
    • Ryzen 9 5900HX
• BIOS
  • W74M12JWSSIQ flash chip
    • SOIC-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with non-open EC firmware
• Graphics
  • Dedicated GPU:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
      • TGP: 60W
  • Integrated GPU:
    • AMD Radeon RX Vega 8
  • eDP display options:
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: AUO B156HAN08.4 (or equivalent)
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
• Power
  • 230W (19.5V, 11.8A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A17-230P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • 48.96Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
    • Model number: NH50BAT-4
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Dedicated microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3)
• USB
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD) or Thunderbolt
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 15": 36.1cm x 25.8cm x 2.9cm, 2.2kg

Kudu (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
/	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
-	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
+	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness

Kudu (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in pink
• DC-in power connector is highlighted in red
• BIOS flash chip (U51) is highlighted in black
• Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
• RAM is highlighted in dotted green
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dotted yellow
• Wireless card is highlighted in blue
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in solid yellow
• CMOS battery is highlighted in solid green

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in red
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in cyan
• Front LED connector is highlighted in green

Kudu (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Kudu can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the battery
• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the DC-in jack
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the battery:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Slide the locking slider (highlighted cyan below) into the unlocked position.

3. While holding the springing slider (highlighted red above) in the unlocked position, grasp the tab in the corner and lift the battery out of the machine.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (such as USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
   • The silver hinge screw (highlighted cyan below) is slightly shorter than the rest.

3. Pull the bottom panel off of the case, starting behind the battery slot.

Replacing the RAM:

The Kudu 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280, and both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 3 only.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Kudu's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the main battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
   • If you are replacing the battery, remove any clear tape, then gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.

3. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Re-connect the CMOS battery, replace the bottom panel, and replace the main battery.
5. Power up the Kudu. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Kudu 6 has a single heatsink for the CPU and GPU. One fan is attached to the heatsink, while the other fan is separate from the heatsink.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact Support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event that your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the standalone fan:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the standalone fan.
   • The standalone fan is located between the battery slot and the M.2 drives, next to the DC-in port.
3. If there is any clear tape on the fan securing the DC-in cable, remove it.
4. Remove the three screws attaching the standalone fan to the chassis.
   • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan's cover on.

5. Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan above.
6. Lift the fan out of the system.
   • The fan grill at the edge of the chassis is part of the heatsink, and will not lift out with the fan.

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the standalone fan.
   • Removing the standalone fan is not physically required, but is recommended to ensure the heatsink is reinstalled properly.
2. Remove the heatsink and fan screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #10.
   • The first four screws (#1 - #4) are held captive and will not pull away from the heat sink when loosened.

3. Unplug the white fan connector from the motherboard (highlighted cyan above).
4. Remove the heatsink/fan from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
5. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

6. After cleaning the CPU, GPU, and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU and GPU chips.

7. Carefully replace the heatsink.
8. Replace the silver heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #6.
9. Replace the black fan screws.
10. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the DC-in jack:

If the DC-in jack (power port) is no longer making contact with the barrel charger, and replacing the charger doesn't fix the issue, the DC-in jack can be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the DC-in jack:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the battery and remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any clear tape securing the internal DC-in cable.
3. Unscrew the two screws holding the DC-in connector onto the chassis, highlighted cyan below.

4. Unplug the internal DC-in cable from the motherboard.
5. Plug in the new cable, replace the screws, and (optionally) replace the tape.

Replacing the keyboard:

Keyboard replacement is simple and requires only a cross-head screwdriver.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 2 keyboard screws, indicated by the small keyboard icons.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
12. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
13. Turn the machine lid-side down again and replace the two keyboard screws.

Launch (launch_2)

• External Overview
• Customization & Repairs

The System76 Launch is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

• Chassis
  • Open-source milled chassis design
  • Magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bar
• Electronics
  • Open-source PCB design
  • Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
  • N-key rollover
• Sockets and Switches
  • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
  • Default switch options:
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
    • Kailh Box Silent Brown
    • Kailh Box Silent Pink
• Keycaps
  • PBT plastic
  • Dye sublimated legend
  • XDA profile
  • Sizes:
    • 3x 2U keycaps (both Space bars and left Shift)
      • All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
    • 8x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, Bksp, and Del)
    • 73x 1U keycaps
• Layout
  • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
• Custom Configurations
  • Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
  • Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
• Integrated Hub
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Firmware
  • Open-source QMK-based firmware
• Included cables:
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 30.83cm x 13.51cm x 3.061cm, 948g

Launch (External Overview)

Top overview:

Back overview:

Box contents overview:

Launch (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.

• Connecting and using Launch
• Removing and installing keycaps
• Removing and installing switches
• Removing the PCB

Connecting and using Launch:

1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch's center USB-C port, shown above.
2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
3. Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove a keycap:

1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
   • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

2. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removing larger keycaps:

• The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch's keycap sizes.
• The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
  • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Steps to install a keycap:

1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
   • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
   • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Removing and installing switches:

Because Launch uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to remove a switch:

1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

3. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
4. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
   • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
   • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

Steps to install a switch:

1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
   • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
   • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

2. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

3. Place the switch straight into the plate.
   • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
4. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Removing the PCB:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.

Steps to remove the PCB:

1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
   • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

2. Turn the keyboard over and remove the five bottom panel screws.
   • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

3. Remove the bottom panel.
   • If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.

4. Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
   • To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Steps to install the PCB:

1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
   • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
   • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
   • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

2. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
   • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
   • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
   • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

3. Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C ports on the top edge.
   • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
   • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
   • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

4. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
   • If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
     • The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.

Launch Heavy (launch_heavy_1)

• External Overview
• Customization & Repairs

The System76 Launch Heavy is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

• Chassis
  • Open-source milled chassis design
  • Dual magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bars
• Electronics
  • Open-source PCB design
  • Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
  • N-key rollover
• Sockets and Switches
  • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
  • Default switch options:
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
    • Kailh Box Silent Brown
    • Kailh Box Silent Pink
• Keycaps
  • PBT plastic
  • Dye sublimated legend
  • XDA profile
  • Sizes:
    • 6x 2U keycaps (both Space bars, left Shift, numpad 0, numpad +, and numpad Enter)
      • All six 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
    • 8x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, Bksp, and Del)
    • 91x 1U keycaps
• Layout
  • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
• Custom Configurations
  • Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
  • Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
• Integrated Hub
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Firmware
  • Open-source QMK-based firmware
• Included cables:
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 39.40cm x 13.51cm x 3.03cm, 1315.42g

Launch Heavy (External Overview)

Top overview:

Back overview:

Box contents overview:

Launch Heavy (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Heavy Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch Heavy before changing keycaps or switches.

• Connecting and using Launch Heavy
• Removing and installing keycaps
• Removing and installing switches
• Removing the PCBs

Connecting and using Launch Heavy:

1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Heavy's center USB-C port.

2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.
3. Connect any other USB devices to the four downstream USB ports on either side of the Launch Heavy.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch Heavy uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 25 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove a keycap:

1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
   • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

2. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removing larger keycaps:

• The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Heavy's keycap sizes.
• The six 2U keycaps (both Space bars, left Shift, numpad 0, numpad +, and numpad Enter) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
  • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Removing vertical keycaps:

• For the launch_heavy_1.1 revision numpad PCB, when removing vertical 2U keycaps (numpad Enter and numpad +), the switch will come out of the socket with the keycap.

• If you are not replacing the switch, remove it from the keycap and install it back into the keyboard before putting on the new keycap.

Steps to install a keycap:

1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
   • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
   • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Removing and installing switches:

Launch Heavy uses Kailh hot swap sockets, so key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Heavy, it is recommended to completely remove the PCBs, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCBs into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCBs.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to remove a switch:

1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

3. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
4. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
   • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
   • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

Steps to install a switch:

1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
   • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
   • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

2. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

3. Place the switch straight into the plate.
   • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
4. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Removing the PCBs:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

If either of the PCBs in your Launch Heavy become damaged and need to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches in the keyboard, they can be removed and replaced using these instructions. The two PCBs are joined by a 100mm long, 20 pin, 0.5mm pitch FPC cable.

Steps to remove the PCBs:

1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
   • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

2. Turn the keyboard over and remove the eight bottom panel screws.
   • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

3. Remove the bottom panel.
   • If the magnetic lift bars are installed, they can be used as handles.

4. Disconnect and remove the flat ribbon cable between the main PCB (launch 2.0) and the numpad PCB (launch_heavy 1.1).
   • Slide the black latches away from the white connectors to free the cable.

5. Push each PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift each PCB out of the chassis, one at a time.
   • For the main board, to avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Steps to install the PCBs:

1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
   • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCBs, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCBs or switches during installation.
   • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
   • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

2. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
   • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
   • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCBs, the switch or corresponding PCB may be damaged.
   • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

3. Carefully line up the main PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
   • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
   • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
   • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

4. Repeat the previous step for the numpad PCB.
5. Insert the ribbon cable into the white connector on both PCBs, then slide the black latches shut.
6. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
   • If any of the oval steel inserts came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
     • The steel inserts are held in with glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed. They can be re-glued with CA glue.

Launch Lite (launch_lite_1)

• External Overview
• Customization & Repairs

The System76 Launch Lite is a configurable keyboard with the following specifications:

• Chassis
  • Open-source milled chassis design
  • Magnetically-attachable 15-degree angle lift bar
• Electronics
  • Open-source PCB design
  • Individually addressable RGB LED backlighting
  • N-key rollover
• Sockets and Switches
  • Kailh MX hot swap sockets
  • Default switch options:
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Jade
    • NovelKeys x Kailh Box Royal
    • Kailh Box Silent Brown
    • Kailh Box Silent Pink
• Keycaps
  • PBT plastic
  • Dye sublimated legend
  • XDA profile
  • Sizes:
    • 3x 2U keycaps (both Space bars and left Shift)
      • All three 2U caps use plate-mount stabilizers
    • 7x 1.5U keycaps (Tab, Caps, left Ctrl, right Fn, right Shift, Enter, and Bksp)
    • 60x 1U keycaps
• Layout
  • Modified ANSI US QWERTY
• Custom Configurations
  • Customize layout and lighting in firmware with the System76 Keyboard Configurator
  • Available on Linux, Windows, and macOS
• Firmware
  • Open-source QMK-based firmware
• Included cables:
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-C
  • 1x USB Type-C to USB Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 30.83cm x 10.71cm x 3.06cm, 816.46g

Launch Lite (External Overview)

Top overview:

Back overview:

Box contents overview:

• Contact System76 Support to purchase replacement accessories (availability may vary.)

Launch Lite (Customization & Repairs)

The Launch Lite Configurable Keyboard can be customized and personalized in a variety of ways. It is recommended to unplug all USB cables and devices from your Launch before changing keycaps or switches.

• Connecting and using Launch Lite
• Removing and installing keycaps
• Removing and installing switches
• Removing the PCB

Connecting and using Launch Lite:

1. Connect the USB-C side of either the USB-C/USB-C or USB-C/USB-A cable to the Launch Lite's USB-C port, shown above.
2. Connect the other side of the cable to your computer.

Removing and installing keycaps:

Launch Lite uses only three sizes of uniform profile keycaps, which allows for a high degree of customization. Any two keycaps of the same size can be swapped on the keyboard, and several extras are included in the box.

Tools required: Keycap puller
Time estimate: 20 minutes (to replace all keycaps)
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove a keycap:

1. Separate the two wire loops of the keycap puller and place them around two opposite corners of the keycap.
   • The keycap puller can be partially inserted over the sides of the key first, then twisted to go over the corners.

2. Pull slowly but firmly (directly away from the keyboard) until the keycap slides off of the switch's stem.

Removing larger keycaps:

• The included keycap puller works on all three of Launch Lite's keycap sizes.
• The three 2U keycaps (both space bars and left shift) have stabilizers, so be sure to pull both sides evenly.
  • These 2U keycaps take slightly more pulling force than the rest of the keycaps.

Steps to install a keycap:

1. Position the keycap on top of the switch.
2. Press the keycap down firmly until it's fully on the switch.
   • The keycap will be held onto the switch by friction.
   • The 2U keycaps with stabilizers require slightly more pressure to install.

Removing and installing switches:

Because Launch Lite uses Kailh hot swap sockets, key switches can be removed and installed without soldering.

If you are changing all of the switches in your Launch Lite, it is recommended to completely remove the PCB, install the switches into the top case without the PCB, then install the PCB into the case and onto the switch pins. This makes switch installation easier and reduces the likelihood of bending switch pins or damaging the PCB.

If you are installing new switches, ensure that the switches you're installing are compatible with surface-mount (SMD) LEDs.

Tools required: MX-style switch puller
Time estimate: ~1 minute per switch
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to remove a switch:

1. Remove the keycap on the switch you wish to remove.
2. Place the two tongs of the switch removal tool into the switch's locking tabs on the top and bottom edges of the switch.

3. Pinch the tongs together to release the switch's locking clips from the chassis.
4. Pull the switch upwards out of the socket.
   • The switch's locking tabs can sometimes catch on the edges of the chassis cutouts. If the switch feels stuck, remove the tool and press the switch back down into place, then try removing it again.
   • Switches take more force to remove than keycaps.

Steps to install a switch:

1. Make sure the switch's pins are straight.
   • If either of the pins is bent, gently bend it back into place.
   • Caution: Attempting to install a switch with bent pins may damage the PCB and/or switch.

2. Orient the switch so the clear LED window aligns with the LED on the PCB, near the top of the socket.

3. Place the switch straight into the plate.
   • Caution: Forcing the pins into the hot swap socket if the pins are not properly aligned could damage the PCB and/or switch.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, pull the switch out, double-check that the pins are straight, and try installing the switch again.
4. Once you feel the pins plug into the hot swap socket, press the switch down with more force to snap it into place within the chassis.

Removing the PCB:

Tools required: Keycap puller, MX-style switch puller, and cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 50 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

If the PCB in your Launch becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, or if you are changing all of the switches on the PCB, it can be removed and replaced using these instructions.

Steps to remove the PCB:

1. Remove all of the keycaps and all of the switches.
   • The 2U stabilizers do not need to be removed.

2. Turn the keyboard over and remove the four bottom panel screws.
   • The screws are set into adapters that may or may not come out with the screws.

3. Remove the bottom panel.
   • If the magnetic lift bar is installed, it can be used as a handle.
   • A small plastic spacer (highlighted cyan below) may come loose; if it does, place it back in the middle PCB hole.

4. Push the PCB up out of the chassis through one of the switch holes, then lift the PCB out of the chassis.
   • To avoid the USB-C port catching on the chassis, push through one of the bottom row switch holes and lift the bottom edge of the PCB first.

Steps to install the PCB:

1. Install all of the switches into the chassis.
   • The switches can also be installed after installing the PCB, but installing the switches first is recommended because it reduces the risk of individual bent pins damaging the PCB or switches during installation.
   • Make sure the switches are in the correct orientation with the LED window at the top.
   • The switches are not specific to their key/hole.

2. Turn the chassis over and check that all of the switch pins are straight.
   • Look down the rows of pins from the sides of the chassis to identify any bent pins.
   • If any of the pins are bent when installing the PCB, the switch or the PCB may be damaged.
   • In the image below, the pin marked with a red arrow is an example of a pin that is bent and needs to be straightened.

3. Carefully line up the PCB with the switch pins and place it in the chassis, starting with the USB-C port on the top edge.
   • Evenly press the PCB down until all of the switch pins are fully seated in their sockets.
   • It may help to pick up the keyboard and pinch to press both the PCB and the switches at the same time.
   • If you feel excessive resistance, stop, remove the PCB, and ensure that all of the switch pins are lined up.
   • The switch pins can be seen from the back of the sockets when they are fully seated, highlighted below.

4. Install the bottom cover and its four screws, flip the keyboard over, and put all of the keycaps back on.
   • If any of the oval magnets came loose from the bottom cover, put them back into place before reinstalling the bottom cover.
     • The magnets are held in by glue, but are also held in place magnetically if the magnetic lift bar is installed.

Lemur Pro (lemp12)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Lemur Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i7-1355U
    • Core i5-1335U
• BIOS
  • Macronix MX25L25673G flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    • GOP driver is recommended, VBT is provided
  • eDP display: 14.0" 1920x1080@60Hz LCD
    • LCD panel: Innolux N140HCE-EN2 (or equivalent)
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Channel 0: 8-GB on-board DDR5
    • 4x Samsung K4RAH165VB-BCQK (2GB each)
  • Channel 1: 8-GB/16-GB/32-GB DDR5 SO-DIMM @ 4800 MHz
• Networking
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX210/AX211
      • Bluetooth 5.3
• Power
  • 19V, 3.42A (65W) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: AcBel ADA012
    • AC power cord type: IEC C7 (non-polarized)
  • USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
  • 73Wh 4-cell Lithium-Ion battery
• Sound
  • Realtek ALC256-CGT audio chipset
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • 3.5mm headphone/microphone combo jack
  • HDMI, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
  • MicroSD card reader (RTS5227S)
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 1.65cm x 32.2cm x 21.68cm, 1.15kg

Lemur Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Speakers

The machine has two bottom-firing speakers near the front, angled outward.

Materials:

LED indicators

There is an LED light next to the DC-in connector (charger port.) The color and pattern indicate:

• Solid green: Powered on and not suspended.
• Flashing green: Powered on and suspended.
• Solid yellow: Powered off and charging.
• Off: Powered off and not charging.

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Lemur Pro has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F4	Cycle keyboard backlight brightness
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Lemur Pro (Internal Overview)

Components and connectors:

Components can be replaced using the instructions under Parts & Repairs. Connectors can be reseated for troubleshooting purposes.

• RAM slot is highlighted in maroon
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in green
  • Slot closest to RAM supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • Slot closest to battery supports PCIe NVMe Gen 3 and SATA III
• Wireless card is highlighted in navy
• LCD cable connector is highlighted in yellow
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in orange
• Keyboard connector (main) is highlighted in olive
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in white
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in brown
• Battery connector is highlighted in light red
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in pink
• BIOS flash chip (U41) is highlighted in black

Lemur Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Lemur Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the main battery

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●
Screws: 12 total

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 12 screws from the bottom panel.

3. Lift the bottom cover off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Lemur Pro 12 comes with 8GB of 4800 MHz RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which cannot be replaced. There is an additional RAM slot, which can support up to a 32GB stick for 40GB of RAM total. The additional stick is a standard DDR5 SO-DIMM running at 4800 MHz.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it into the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots are size 2280. SSD-1 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 3 or SATA III, while SSD-2 supports PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.
   • SSD-1 is between the battery and the speaker.
   • SSD-2 is next to the RAM slot.

4. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
5. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it down.
6. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your system's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It connects with a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless card (next to the CPU fan.) Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the primary SSD.
3. Remove any clear tape that is securing the battery, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
   • If you are only clearing the CMOS and are not replacing the CMOS battery, removing the SSD and CMOS battery is optional, but will make it easier to unplug the CMOS battery connector.

4. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
5. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
6. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the SSD and bottom panel.
7. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

If the CPU fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new CPU fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the small connector plugging the fan into the motherboard, highlighted yellow below.
   • This can alternatively be done after the fan/heatsink is removed.

4. Remove the two fan screws (highlighted cyan above) and any clear tape holding the fan in place.
5. Remove the heatsink screws in reverse order, starting with #3, then #2, and finally #1.
6. Remove the heatsink/fan from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
7. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to remove excess or difficult-to-remove paste.

8. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU.

9. Carefully replace the fan and heatsink.
10. Replace the heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and finally #3.
11. Replace the fan screws and plug the fan back in.
    • When plugging the fan in, the black wire goes on the left (closest to the side of the machine.)

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Pull the tops of the purple rubber circles over the black tabs holding them in place.
4. Lift the speaker up and off of the plastic posts.

5. Slide the new speaker onto the plastic posts and connect it to the motherboard.

Replacing the main battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

CAUTION: Do not use metal tools to remove the battery. Do not touch the battery contacts with your hands or metal objects. If the battery is damaged during repairs, do not reinsert it into the laptop. Do not continue to use the computer if it contains a damaged battery. It is a potential fire hazard to operate a computer with a damaged battery. Keep children away from, and properly dispose of, the damaged battery. Always dispose of batteries carefully, by placing a piece of tape on the contact points. Take damaged batteries to an electronics recycling center and contact System76 to purchase a replacement. Batteries may explode or leak if exposed to fire, or if improperly handled or discarded. Only use batteries designed for your specific computer. This product contains a rechargeable battery. The battery is recyclable. At the end of its useful life, under various state and local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this battery into the municipal waste stream. Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your area for recycling options or proper disposal.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the main battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.

3. Remove the battery.
   • The battery is secured to foam standoffs with double-sided tape.
   • A flat plastic object (such as a credit card) can be used to separate the tape from the battery.
   • If any tabs from the tape are visible around the perimeter of the battery, do not push them back under the battery.
     • Hold the tabs down while inserting the plastic tool to separate the tape and foam from the battery.
     • Alternatively, pull the tabs up with the battery to separate the tape and foam from the chassis.
4. Put the battery back (or put your new battery in its place) and plug it back into the motherboard.

Meerkat (meer6)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Meerkat is a desktop with the following specifications:

• CPU options
  • i3-1115G4
  • i5-1135G7
  • i7-1165G7
• Graphics
  • GPU: Intel UHD Graphics
  • Video output:
    • 2x HDMI 2.0b
    • 2x DisplayPort 1.4a over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) Dual Channel DDR4 SODIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • Intel® Ethernet Controller i225-LM
  • Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX201 (with Bluetooth 5.2)
• Power
  • i3 model:
    • 90W (19V, 4.74A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter*: APD DA-90J19
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • i5 and i7 models:
    • 120W (19V, 6.32A) DC-in port
      • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
    • Included AC adapter*: FSP FSP120-ABBN3
      • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • * Included AC adapter may be a different model with the same specifications.
• Sound
  • 7.1-channel digital audio output over HDMI and USB-C
• Storage
  • 1x M.2 2280 (M key)
    • PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • 1x M.2 2242 (B key)
    • SATA III
  • Tall model only: 1x 2.5"
    • SATA III
• USB
  • 1x USB4 Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
  • 1x USB4 Type-C with Thunderbolt 3
  • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 1x USB 2.0 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • Short: 117 x 112 x 38mm
  • Tall: 117 x 112 x 51mm

Meerkat (External Overview)

Short meer6:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Tall meer6:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Meerkat (Internal Overview)

Component overview:

• M.2 2280 (NVMe) SSD slot is highlighted in yellow
• M.2 2242 (SATA) SSD slot is highlighted in cyan
• Wireless card (underneath the NVMe SSD) is highlighted in red
• RAM slots are highlighted in pink
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in white

Meerkat (Parts & Repairs)

Several components in your Meerkat can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Power the machine off and unplug all peripherals before working with any internal components. Then, follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Removing the bottom panel
• Replacing an M.2 drive
• Replacing the RAM
• Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive
• Resetting the CMOS
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Removing the motherboard
• Replacing the fan
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the thermal paste
• Removing the cable keeper
• Mounting with VESA mount

Removing the bottom panel:

The bottom panel can be removed to access the internal components.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom panel:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Completely loosen the four screws in the corners.
   • The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the bottom panel.

3. Gently lift the bottom panel out of the machine.
   • If your Meerkat is the tall model (with 2.5" drive slot), be careful not to damage the thin cable running from the motherboard to the bottom panel.

Replacing an M.2 drive:

Your Meerkat has two M.2 slots. The first slot is size 2280 and supports PCIe NVMe Gen 4. The second slot is size 2242 and supports SATA III.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 6 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.
6. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the RAM:

The Meerkat 6 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down until it clicks into place.

Adding/removing a 2.5" storage drive:

If your Meerkat is the tall variety, it has a 2.5" SATA III drive bay built into the bottom panel.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 7 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to add/remove a 2.5" storage drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel.
2. Locate the SATA connector in the bottom panel and orient your drive to match.

3. Slide the drive into the slot on the bottom panel until it plugs all the way into its connector.

4. Replace the bottom panel.

Resetting the CMOS:

A CMOS reset will restore the UEFI firmware settings to their factory defaults, which can sometimes help if the system is not booting.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver and (optionally) tweezers
Time estimate: 13 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to reset CMOS:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
2. Disconnect the CMOS battery connector.
   • Try to pull the plug, not the wires.

3. Hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Reconnect the CMOS battery.
5. Replace the M.2 drive and bottom panel.
6. Power up the machine. The system may take longer than usual to boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Meerkat's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, 5.0 mm hex socket
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
2. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted cyan below) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.

3. Use the 5mm hex socket to remove the M.2 screw standoff, which also holds the wireless card in place.
4. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
5. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
6. Replace the retaining standoff.
7. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place.
   • Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Removing the motherboard:

Removing the motherboard is necessary for replacing the CMOS battery, cooling fan, and thermal paste.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to remove the motherboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel and remove the M.2 drive.
2. If your Meerkat is the tall variety, disconnect the ribbon cable that leads to the 2.5" drive bay.
   • The white latch pulls away from the motherboard to free the cable; gently pull the cable out of the connector.

3. Disconnect the two wireless antenna cables.
4. Remove the two motherboard mounting screws along the back edge of the machine.

5. Carefully lift the motherboard out of the case.
   • It is easiest to lift the front side first, pivoting the board against the back side of the case.
   • Removing the RAM is not required, but can make removing the motherboard easier.

Replacing the fan:

The cooling fan can be removed to clean dust out of the cooling system or to access the CPU heatsink when replacing the thermal paste.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 25 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fan:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the motherboard.
2. Unplug the fan connector, highlighted cyan below.

3. Remove the two fan screws (highlighted red above) and remove the fan.
   • The plastic strip at the bottom of the fan is adhered to the heatsink; gently pull the fan off of the heatsink.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip, where UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored. If your clock is constantly resetting, your CMOS battery may need to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 27 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the motherboard, remove the fan, and unplug the CMOS battery.
2. The CMOS battery is adhered to the motherboard with double-sided tape. Gently pull the CMOS battery off of the motherboard.

3. Stick the new CMOS battery onto the motherboard using the included double-sided tape (if present), then plug the new CMOS battery in and replace the fan, motherboard, and bottom panel.

Replacing the thermal paste:

Thermal paste helps facilitate heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment. Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, replacing the thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink may help the system run cooler.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 30 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom panel, remove the M.2 drive, unplug the wireless card, remove the motherboard, and remove the fan.
2. Loosen the four heatsink screws in order, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
   • The screws are attached and will not completely separate from the heatsink.

3. Gently lift the heatsink off of the motherboard.
4. Using a paper towel, clean the old thermal paste off of the heatsink and CPU. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

5. Apply a small dot of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

6. Replace the heatsink and tighten the four screws in the order, starting with #1, then #2, #3, and #4.
7. Reinstall the fan, motherboard, wireless card, M.2 drive, and bottom panel.

Removing the cable keeper:

Your Meerkat comes with a cable organizer to help hold cables in place. The cable organizer can be removed for a lower profile.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the cable keeper:

1. Unscrew the Phillips screw holding the cable keeper in place.

Removing the top cover:

The Meerkat's top cover can be removed or replaced.

Tools required: None
Time estimate: 1 minute
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the top cover:

1. Pull up on the grooves in the back of the cover.

2. Once the back is free, pull the rest of the top cover off of the machine.

Mounting with VESA Mount:

Your Meerkat comes with a VESA mount adapter, which allows it to be mounted on the back of a display. Because it mounts to the display's VESA mount, this will only work on displays which aren't already mounted via the VESA mount.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to mount with the VESA adapter:

1. Insert the two shoulder screws into the bottom of the Meerkat.

2. Use the remaining four screws to attach the VESA mounting plate, using the arrow to guide the orientation.

3. Insert the two shoulder screws in the Meerkat into the two holes in the mounting plate (highlighted cyan above), then set the Meerkat down so it hangs on the mounting plate.

Oryx Pro (oryp10)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel Alder Lake CPUs
    • Intel i7-12700H
• Chipset
  • Intel HM670
• BIOS
  • Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • Dedicated GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti (Max-Q)
      • TGP: 80W
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti (Max-Q)
      • TGP: 80W
  • Integrated GPU:
    • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display options:
    • 15.6" 3840x2160@60Hz OLED
      • OLED panel: Samsung ATNA56WR14-0 (or equivalent)
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY5 (or equivalent)
    • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV173FHM-NY1 (or equivalent)
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 4800 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
• Power
  • 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1231-26
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • 80Wh 6-cell battery
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 15": 35.814cm x 24.003cm x 2.489cm, 2.4kg
  • 17": 39.599cm x 26.213cm x 2.489cm, 2.8kg

Oryx Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD (non-OLED models only)
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
/	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
-	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
+	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Oryx Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• Fan connectors are highlighted in cyan
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
• Wireless card is highlighted in purple
  • Wireless card is underneath the innermost SSD
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
  • CMOS battery connector is underneath the outermost SSD
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
  • Right speaker connector is underneath the outermost SSD
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Battery connector is highlighted in red
• RAM is highlighted in dark green
• BIOS flash chip (U60) is highlighted in black
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in orange
• Keyboard adhesive access hole is highlighted in pink

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
• Keyboard adhesive strip (used) is highlighted in red
  • Access hole is located on the left side
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in green

Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.
   • All screws are the same length on any given unit. However, the 17" model uses longer screws than the 15" model.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Oryx Pro 10 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 4800MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 only. The slots are backwards-compatible with PCIe NVMe Generation 3 drives, but the slots do not support SATA.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the two silver battery screws along the bottom of the battery.

3. Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
6. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Oryx Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove both SSDs.
   • Removing the outermost SSD is optional, but will make it easier to work with the wireless card.
2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. Keeping the wireless card parallel with the motherboard, slide the card out of the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove both SSDs, and remove the wireless card.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the wireless card is optional.

2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
3. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
5. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Oryx Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan.

The Oryx Pro 10 comes with heat-conductive metal on the dedicated GPU, and uses regular thermal paste for the CPU. These materials help facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment.

• Thermal paste should generally be replaced after removing the heatsink; thermal paste also dries over time, so depending on your climate and the age of the machine, applying new thermal paste may increase thermal performance.
• The heat-conductive metal does not dry out, and replacing it is optional; replacement may be useful if the previous metal has flowed out of the proper area for cooling.

Replacement heat-conductive metal fitted to the machine and replacement fans can be obtained by contacting support.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 40 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Power off the machine. Wait 20 minutes for the machine to cool down to room temperature.
   • Warning: Removing the heatsink before the machine has cooled to room temperature may result in heat-conductive metal flowing onto the motherboard and causing irrepairable damage.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
3. Unscrew the fan and heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
   • The screws are held captive and will not come out of the fans/heatsink. The fan screws will click when they are fully loosened.
   • The order for the 17" model is shown below; the screws are numbered differently on the 15" model. Follow the order stamped into the heatsink metal.
   • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

4. If there is any clear tape securing the heatsink/fans or the fan wires, remove it.
5. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted red above).
6. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
7. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, the CPU heatsink, the border of the GPU die, and the GPU heatsink.
   • A small amount of rubbing alcohol can be used if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
   • The heat-conductive metal may have some holes where pieces stuck to the die or heatsink.
   • If you are not replacing the heat-conductive metal, do not pick or wipe the heat-conductive metal off of the GPU heatsink.

8. If you are replacing the heat-conductive metal, remove the plastic cover from the GPU heatsink.
   • A fingernail or a thin plastic tool can be used to pick a side of the plastic cover up from the GPU heatsink.
   • Warning: The heat-conductive metal is electrically conductive. Be careful not to get specks of heat-conductive metal onto the motherboard. The heat-conductive metal can cause the motherboard to malfunction or fail if it makes contact.
   • After removing the plastic covers, wipe away any remaining heat-conductive metal residue from the heatsink and GPU.
   • Some adhesive residue may remain on the GPU heatsink.

9. Apply the new heat-conductive metal to the GPU heatsink, matching the orientation of the plastic covering with the diagonal corner of its respective surface.
   • Warning: Replacement heat-conductive metal obtained from System76 will include the plastic covering. If you are applying third-party heat-conductive or liquid metal, clean and reuse the plastic covering from the stock heat-conductive metal to prevent the aftermarket metal from flowing onto the motherboard when heated.

10. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto each CPU die.
11. Apply a line of thermal paste around the border of the GPU die.
    • The purpose of this border is to further prevent melted heat-conductive metal from flowing onto the motherboard during operation.
    • Keep the nozzle of the thermal paste tube pressed against the surface of the chip; dispense the thermal paste slowly while moving the nozzle.
    • Be careful not to apply too much thermal paste around the GPU. Only a thin layer is needed.

12. Carefully replace the heatsink.
13. Tighten the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
14. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the outermost SSD.
2. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Unscrew the speaker screws and lift the speaker out of the machine.
   • The right speaker has three screws; the left speaker has two screws.
   • The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
4. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Warning: The Oryx Pro 10's keyboard is held in by a strip of adhesive in addition to one of the bottom panel screws and the perimeter clips. The adhesive may be difficult to remove from the keyboard and/or case, and while the keyboard should still be functional if removed carefully, it is likely that permanent aesthetic damage will occur to the bottom side of the keyboard during removal. Removal is not recommended unless the keyboard is malfunctioning.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers, spudger tool (optional)
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Hard ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the keyboard adhesive strip access point near the right fan.
   • You can optionally remove the fan/heatsink assembly to make access easier, but this is not recommended unless you are also removing the thermal paste.

3. Using a pair of tweezers, pull out the end of the adhesive strip.

4. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
5. Push a screwdriver into the adhesive slot until the keyboard pops out.
   • If available, a flathead spudger tool can also be used to provide more contact with the keyboard.
   • A layer of plastic may stick to the adhesive and come off of the keyboard. Try to keep as much of the plastic shielding on the keyboard as possible.

6. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

7. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
8. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
9. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
10. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
11. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
    • The keyboard is primarily held in place by the perimeter clips and the keyboard screw (one of the bottom panel screws). The adhesive strip can optionally be removed or omitted to make future keyboard removal easier.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again and press the adhesive strip back into its slot.

Oryx Pro (oryp9)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Oryx Pro is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel Alder Lake CPUs
    • Intel i7-12700H
• Chipset
  • Intel HM670
• BIOS
  • Macronix MX25L25673GZ4I-08G flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • Dedicated GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti (Max-Q)
      • TGP: 80W
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti (Max-Q)
      • TGP: 80W
  • Integrated GPU:
    • Intel Iris Xe Graphics
  • eDP display options:
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY5 (or equivalent)
    • 17.3" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV173FHM-NY1 (or equivalent)
  • External video output:
    • 1x HDMI 2.1
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR4 SO-DIMMs @ 3200 MHz
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200/AX201
• Power
  • 230W (20.0V, 11.5A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Lite-On PA-1231-26
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • 80Wh 6-cell battery
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Combined microphone & S/PDIF (optical) 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C
    • Does not support USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 15": 35.814cm x 24.003cm x 2.489cm, 1.99kg
  • 17": 39.599cm x 26.213cm x 2.489cm, 2.3kg

Oryx Pro (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Materials:

LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard shortcuts:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
/	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
-	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
+	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Oryx Pro (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• Fan connectors are highlighted in cyan
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in yellow
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in maroon
• Wireless card is highlighted in purple
  • Wireless card is underneath the innermost SSD
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in blue
  • CMOS battery connector is underneath the outermost SSD
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in light green
  • Right speaker connector is underneath the outermost SSD
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Battery connector is highlighted in red
• RAM is highlighted in dark green
• BIOS flash chip (U60) is highlighted in black
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in orange
• Keyboard adhesive access hole is highlighted in pink

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in cyan
• Keyboard adhesive access hole is highlighted in red
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in green

Oryx Pro (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Oryx Pro can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 17" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 15" model unless otherwise noted.

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers
• Replacing the keyboard

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 16 bottom panel screws.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the RAM:

The Oryx Pro 9 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR4 SO-DIMMs running at 3200MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 only. The slots are backwards-compatible with PCIe NVMe Generation 3 drives, but the slots do not support SATA.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the three silver battery screws along the top of the battery.

3. Unplug the white connector (highlighted yellow above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove the battery, starting from the top edge with screw holes.
5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the bottom edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
6. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Oryx Pro's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove both SSDs.
   • Removing the outermost SSD is optional, but will make it easier to work with the wireless card.
2. Locate the wireless card. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. Keeping the wireless card parallel with the motherboard, slide the card out of the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, remove both SSDs, and remove the wireless card.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then removing the wireless card is optional.

2. Unplug the small white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard. If you are replacing the battery, gently pull from the sides to pry it up from where it's stuck to the case.
3. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery (if it's still installed), open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
4. Reconnect the CMOS battery, reconnect the main battery, and replace the M.2 SSD.
5. Replace the bottom panel and power up the Oryx Pro. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

If the CPU/GPU fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan.

The Oryx Pro 9 comes with heat-conductive metal on the dedicated GPU die and the main CPU die, and uses regular thermal paste for the integrated GPU die. These materials help facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment.

• Thermal paste should generally be replaced after removing the heatsink; thermal paste also dries over time, so depending on your climate and the age of the machine, applying new thermal paste may increase thermal performance.
• The heat-conductive metal does not dry out, and replacing it is optional; replacement may be useful if the previous metal has flowed out of the proper area for cooling.

Replacement heat-conductive metal fitted to the machine and replacement fans can be obtained by contacting support.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 40 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fans/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Power off the machine. Wait 20 minutes for the machine to cool down to room temperature.
   • Warning: Removing the heatsink before the machine has cooled to room temperature may result in heat-conductive metal flowing onto the motherboard and causing irrepairable damage.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
3. Unscrew the fan and heatsink screws in the order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #12.
   • The screws are held captive and will not come out of the fans/heatsink. The fan screws will click when they are fully loosened.
   • The order for the 17" model is shown below; the screws are numbered differently on the 15" model. Follow the order stamped into the heatsink metal.
   • Do not remove the smaller screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

4. If there is any clear tape securing the heatsink/fans or the fan wires, remove it.
5. Unplug the two white fan connectors from the motherboard (highlighted red above).
6. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
7. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the integrated CPU die, the border of the CPU chip, the CPU heatsink, the border of the GPU die, and the GPU heatsink.
   • A small amount of rubbing alcohol can be used if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.
   • The heat-conductive metal may have some holes where pieces stuck to the die or heatsink.
   • If you are not replacing the heat-conductive metal, do not pick or wipe the heat-conductive metal off of the main CPU die or the GPU heatsink.

8. If you are replacing the heat-conductive metal, remove the plastic covers from the GPU heatsink and the CPU chip.
   • A fingernail or a thin plastic tool can be used to pick a side of the plastic cover up from the CPU chip/GPU heatsink.
   • Warning: The heat-conductive metal is electrically conductive. Be careful not to get specks of heat-conductive metal onto the motherboard. The heat-conductive metal can cause the motherboard to malfunction or fail if it makes contact.
   • After removing the plastic covers, wipe away any remaining heat-conductive metal residue from the heatsink, dedicated GPU die, and main CPU die.
   • Some adhesive residue may remain on the GPU heatsink and CPU chip.

9. Apply the new heat-conductive metal to the CPU chip and the GPU heatsink, matching the orientation of the plastic coverings with the diagonal corners of their respective surfaces.
   • Warning: Replacement heat-conductive metal obtained from System76 will include the plastic covering. If you are applying third-party heat-conductive or liquid metal, clean and reuse the plastic covering from the stock heat-conductive metal to prevent the aftermarket metal from flowing onto the motherboard when heated.

Above: Heat-conductive metal for the CPU (left) and the GPU (right), with plastic coverings.
Below: Heat-conductive metal application on the CPU chip and the GPU heatsink.

10. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the integrated GPU die (the smaller die on the CPU chip).

11. Apply a line of thermal paste around the border of the CPU chip and the border of the GPU die.
    • The purpose of this border is to further prevent melted heat-conductive metal from flowing onto the motherboard during operation.
    • Keep the nozzle of the thermal paste tube pressed against the surface of the chip; dispense the thermal paste slowly while moving the nozzle.
    • Be careful not to apply too much thermal paste. Only a thin layer is needed.

12. Carefully replace the heatsink.
13. Tighten the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #12.
14. Plug the two white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover. For the right speaker, also remove the outermost SSD.
2. Disconnect the speaker wire from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Unscrew the speaker screws and lift the speaker out of the machine.
   • The right speaker has three screws; the left speaker has two screws.
   • The speaker wire may be partially routed behind other components or tape; be careful when removing it.
4. Place the new speaker in the machine, plug in the connector, replace the screws, and reinstall the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom panel.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced if its switches or electronics have been damaged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, tweezers
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the keyboard adhesive strip access point near the right fan.

3. Using a pair of tweezers, pull out the end of the adhesive strip.

4. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
5. Push a screwdriver into the adhesive slot until the keyboard pops out.

6. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

7. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
8. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
9. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
10. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
11. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again and press the adhesive strip back into its slot.
    • The keyboard is primarily held in place by the perimeter clips and the keyboard screw (one of the bottom panel screws). The adhesive strip can optionally be removed to make future keyboard removal easier.

Pangolin (pang12)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Pangolin is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports AMD Ryzen (Rembrandt) Mobile CPUs
    • Ryzen 7 6800U
• BIOS
  • Winbond W25R256JW flash chip
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 firmware (non-open)
• EC
  • ITE IT5571
    • Programmed with non-open EC firmware
• Graphics
  • GPU: AMD Radeon 680M
  • eDP display: 15.6" 1920x1080@144Hz LCD
    • LCD panel: Innolux N156HRA-EA1 (or equivalent)
  • External video output: 1x HDMI 2.0, DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • 32GB LPDDR5 (on-board) @ 6400 MHz
    • 16x Micron MT62F2G32D8DR-031 (2GB each)
• Networking
  • Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Mediatek MT7921K
• Power
  • 65W (19V, 3.42A) DC-in port
    • Barrel size: 5.5mm (outer), 2.5mm (inner)
  • Included AC adapter: Shenzhen Jihongda JHD-AD065B-190342BA-A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C5
  • USB-C charging compatible with 65W+ charger
  • 70Wh 3-cell Lithium-Ion battery (model number 628467-3S1P)
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI audio
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4)
  • SD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • Does not support Thunderbolt.
    • Supports USB-C charging (USB-PD)
  • 3x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 1.80cm x 37.06cm x 24.79cm, 1.79kg

Pangolin (External Overview)

Left side:

Right side:

Front side:

Back side:

Keyboard & touchpad:

Lid:

Materials

LED indicators:

Icon	State	Description
	On	Charging
	Off	Fully charged
	On	Webcam disabled (privacy mode on)
	Off	Webcam enabled (privaacy mode off)
	On	Powered on
	Pulsing	Suspended
	Off	Powered off

Keyboard shortcuts

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Mute
	Fn+F2	Volume down
	Fn+F3	Volume up
	Fn+F6	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F7	Cycle keyboard brightness
	Fn+F9	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F10	Toggle displays
	Fn+F11	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F12	Screen brightness up

Pangolin (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
• Wireless card is highlighted in dark blue
• LCD panel connector is highlighted in red
• CMOS battery connector is highlighted in yellow
• Main battery connector is highlighted in purple
• Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
• BIOS flash chip (U4) is highlighted in black
• Speaker connector is highlighted in cyan
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Keyboard connector is highlighted in light green
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in pink

Pangolin (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Pangolin can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. Follow these step-by-step guides for instructions:

• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Removing the bottom cover
• Removing the battery
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the speakers

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports two M.2 SSDs. Both slots support PCIe NVMe Generation 4 connections and M.2 size 2280.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 3 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Unscrew the M.2 access door screw.

2. Pull the M.2 access door off, starting from the top (larger side).
   • A flat, plastic tool can be used to pry the edge of the door up.
   • If the door is difficult to remove, the M.2 drives can alternatively be accessed by removing the bottom cover.
3. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

4. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
5. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
   • If a slot is being used for the first time, the spare thermal pad (which is included in the Pangolin's box) can be applied to the silver backplate before placing the drive down on top of it.
6. Replace the retainer screw.

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 12 bottom panel screws.
   • The M.2 access door screw does not need to be removed.

3. Lift the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Removing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the four battery screws, highlighted green below.

3. Unplug the battery connector (highlighted cyan above) and lift the battery out of the chassis.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Pangolin's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 12 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

3. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
4. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
5. The wireless card will pop up at an angle. Remove the card from the M.2 slot.
6. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot at an angle.
7. Replace the retaining screw.
8. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the computer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unplug the white connector attaching the CMOS battery to the motherboard (highlighted green below.)

3. If you are replacing the CMOS battery, carefully peel it away from the adhesive holding it to the motherboard.
4. To clear the CMOS, disconnect the main battery, open the lid of the machine, and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery, and replace the bottom panel.
6. Power up the machine. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Pangolin 12 has a fan and heatsink assembly to cool the CPU. The fans and heatsink are held together with adhesive; it is possible to replace the fans individually, but removing the entire assembly is recommended to perform service.

During normal operation, only the left fan will spin. The right fan is reserved in the embedded controller firmware for cooling a dedicated GPU, which the Pangolin 12 does not have.

If the fan becomes noisy and cleaning it out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU and the cooling equipment.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, thermal paste
Time estimate: 20 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the fan/heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove any black tape that may be covering the fan screws and wires.
3. Remove the six fan screws, highlighted green below.

4. Unplug the fan connectors, highlighted cyan above.
5. Unscrew the three heatsink screws, highlighted red above.
   • The heatsink screws are held captive and will not come out of the heatsink.
6. Remove the fan and heatsink assembly from the system, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipe. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
   • The fans are held onto the heatsink with adhesive strips on both the top and bottom; if they come loose, place them back into position between the strips before reinstalling the fan/heatsink assembly.
7. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

8. After cleaning the CPU and heatsink, apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip.

9. Carefully replace the heatsink.
10. Tighten the three heatsink screws.
11. Replace the fan screws and plug in the fan connectors.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers. The speakers are a connected set, and must be replaced together.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the speakers:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the left speaker (on the right side when the machine is upside-down) from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Pull both speakers up and off of the plastic posts.
4. Remove any tape necessary to free the wire between the left and right speakers.
5. Slide the new speakers onto the plastic posts, run the wire between the speakers through the channels in the chassis, and connect the left speaker to the motherboard.

Serval WS (serw13)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Serval WS is a laptop with the following specifications:

• CPU
  • Supports Intel 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Core i9-13900HX
• Chipset
  • Intel HM770
• BIOS
  • GigaDevice GD25B256EYIGR
    • WSON-8 form factor
  • Programmed with System76 Open Firmware
• EC
  • ITE IT5570E
  • Programmed with System76 EC
• Graphics
  • GPU options:
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
  • eDP display:
    • 15.6" 1920x1080@165Hz LCD
      • LCD panel: BOE NV156FHM-NY8 (or equivalent)
    • 17.6" 3840x2160@144Hz
      • LCD panel: AUO B173ZAN03.0 (or equivalent)
  • External video outputs:
    • 1x HDMI
    • 1x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
    • 1x DisplayPort 1.4 over USB-C
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 SO-DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
• Networking
  • 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet
  • M.2 PCIe/CNVi WiFi/Bluetooth
    • Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX211
• Power
  • 280W (20V, 14A) DC-in port
    • DC-in port accepts rectangular (not barrel) connector
  • Included AC adapter: Chicony A18-280P1A
    • AC power cord type: IEC C13
  • 80Wh 6-cell battery
• Sound
  • Internal speakers & microphone
  • Combined headphone & microphone 3.5mm jack
  • Combined microphone & S/PDIF 3.5mm jack
  • HDMI, Mini DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio
• Storage
  • 2x PCIe NVMe Gen 4
  • MicroSD card reader
• USB
  • 1x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Supports USB-PD (charging) when the system is powered off or suspended.
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C.
  • 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C
    • Partially supports DisplayPort over USB-C.
      • Display output is unreliable with some display brands;
        usage of the Thunderbolt port is recommended instead.
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 15": 2.49cm x 35.8cm x 24.0cm, 2.4kg
  • 17": 2.49cm x 39.6cm x 26.2cm, 2.8kg

Serval WS (External Overview)

Left side overview:

Right side overview:

Front side overview:

Back side overview:

Keyboard & touchpad overview:

Materials:

LED indicators

The Serval WS has the following LED indicators:

Icon	Color	Description
	Orange	Powered off, DC power plugged in
	Green	Powered on
	Blinking green	Sleeping (suspended)
	Orange	Battery charging
	Green	Battery fully charged
	Blinking orange	Battery critically low
	Green	Storage drive activity

Keyboard Shortcuts

The Serval WS has the following actions available using the Fn and Function keys:

Key	Shortcut	Action
	Fn+F1	Toggle trackpad
	Fn+F2	Toggle built-in LCD
	Fn+F3	Mute
	Fn+F5	Volume down
	Fn+F6	Volume up
	Fn+F7	Toggle displays
	Fn+F8	Screen brightness down
	Fn+F9	Screen brightness up
	Fn+F10	Toggle webcam
	Fn+F11	Toggle airplane mode
	Fn+F12	Suspend
	Fn+`	Play/Pause
	Fn+*	Toggle keyboard backlight
	Fn+/	Cycle keyboard color
	Fn+-	Decrease keyboard brightness
	Fn++	Increase keyboard brightness
1	Fn+1	Toggle fan between max/automatic

Serval WS (Internal Overview)

Bottom components and connectors:

• LCD panel connector is highlighted in light green
• Webcam/microphone connector is highlighted in cyan
• Keyboard adhesive access point is highlighted in pink
• RAM is highlighted in maroon
• BIOS flash chip (U46) is highlighted in black
• Fan connectors are highlighted in orange
• M.2 SSDs are highlighted in dark green
  • Both slots support PCIe NVMe Gen 4
• Speaker connectors are highlighted in yellow
  • Right speaker connector (on the left) is under the outermost SSD
• CMOS battery connector (under the outermost SSD) is highlighted in purple
• Wireless card (under the innermost SSD) is highlighted in blue
• Touchpad connector is highlighted in white
• Main battery connector is highlighted in red

Under-keyboard components and connectors:

• Keyboard connector is highlighted in yellow
• Keyboard backlight connector is highlighted in green
• Power button/LED connector is highlighted in red
• Front LED connector is highlighted in cyan

Serval WS (Parts & Repairs)

Many components in your Serval WS can be upgraded or replaced as necessary. This page uses photos of the 15" model, but screw counts, general component locations, and other details are the same on the 17" model unless otherwise noted.

• Removing the bottom cover
• Replacing the battery
• Replacing the keyboard
• Replacing the RAM
• Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD
• Replacing the fans/heatsink/thermal paste
• Replacing the WiFi/Bluetooth module
• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Replacing the speakers

Removing the bottom cover:

Removing the cover is required to access the internal components. Prior to removing the cover, ensure the AC power is unplugged and all peripherals (including SD cards and USB drives) are unplugged or removed from the system.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 5 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to remove the bottom cover:

1. Place the machine lid-side down.
   • Use a soft surface (such as a towel) to avoid scratches.
2. Remove the 15 bottom panel screws.
   • All screws are the same length on any given unit. However, the 17" model uses longer screws than the 15" model.

3. Pull the bottom panel off, starting from the hinges in the back.

Replacing the battery:

The battery provides primary power whenever the system is unplugged.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the three silver battery screws along the bottom of the battery.

3. Unplug the white connector (highlighted cyan above) connecting the battery to the motherboard.
4. Remove the battery, starting from the bottom edge with screw holes.
5. When putting in the new battery, start with the plastic tabs along the top edge (opposite from the screw holes.)
6. When plugging in the new battery, the red wire on the connector goes on the left, and the black wire goes on the right.

Replacing the keyboard:

The keyboard can be replaced using the instructions below.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver; tweezers (optional)
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the keyboard:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Pull the keyboard adhesive out of the machine to detatch it from the keyboard.
   • The adhesive strip access point is highlighted green below.
   • If the end of the keyboard adhesive strip is tucked behind the fan, it can be pulled out using tweezers or a small screwdriver, or the thermal system can be removed to expose it.
     • Replacing the thermal paste is recommended if the thermal system is removed.
   • If the adhesive strip breaks, remove as much of it as possible. The keyboard can be reinstalled without the adhesive strip.

3. Open the lid slightly and place the machine on its side.
4. Push the screwdriver into the keyboard push point (highlighted red above) until the keyboard pops out.

5. Set the machine back down and raise the keyboard away from the chassis. The larger ribbon cable is for the keyboard, while the smaller ribbon cable is for the keyboard backlight.

6. Flip the black latches upwards to free the ribbon cables.
7. Pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors.
8. Remove the keyboard and replace it with the new one.
9. Carefully slide both ribbon cables into their connectors.
10. Flip the black latches back into place to secure the ribbon cables.
11. (Optional) Replace the keyboard adhesive strip on the chassis.
12. Place the keyboard back into position, starting with the tabs on the bottom edge.
13. Secure the rest of the keyboard by pressing down on each of its edges.
14. Turn the machine lid-side down again.
15. Replace the bottom panel.

Replacing the RAM:

The Serval WS 13 supports up to 64GB (2x32GB) of DDR5 SO-DIMMs running at 5600MHz. If you've purchased new RAM, need to replace your RAM, or are reseating your RAM, follow these steps.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the RAM:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Press the small tabs on both sides of the RAM simultaneously. The RAM should spring up to an angle.

3. Remove the RAM from the slot.
4. Insert the new RAM (or reseat the existing RAM) by placing it in the keyed slot and pressing down on the RAM until it clicks into place.

Replacing an M.2/NVMe SSD:

This model supports up to two M.2 SSDs. Both M.2 slots are size 2280 and support PCIe NVMe Generation 4.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the M.2 drive:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the retainer screw opposite the M.2 slot.

3. Remove the existing M.2 drive by pulling it out of the slot.
4. Insert the new M.2 drive into the slot and hold it in place.
5. Replace the retainer screw.

Replacing the cooling system:

The Serval WS 13 has a single heatsink assembly with two fans. This assembly cools the CPU and GPU.

If the fans become noisy and cleaning them out doesn't fix the issue, you may need a new fan. Contact support to start a warranty claim or parts purchase.

Depending on your climate and the age of the machine, it may be necessary to apply new thermal paste between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink. Thermal paste helps facilitate effective heat transfer between the CPU/GPU and the cooling equipment. These instructions can also be used in the unlikely event your heatsink needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 15 minutes
Difficulty: High ●

Steps to replace the heatsink/thermal paste:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Remove the thirteen heatsink and fan screws in order of the stamped numbers, starting with #1, then #2, and continuing until you have removed #13.
   • The black screws (#1-#12) are held captive, and will not completely detatch from the heatsink/fans. The silver screw (#13) is not held captive, and will come loose when untightened.
   • Do not remove the smaller black screws holding the fan covers onto the fans.

3. Unplug the white fan connectors from the motherboard.
4. Remove the heatsink/fans from the case, being careful not to bend the heatsink pipes. It may take some pressure to break the seal of the thermal paste.
5. Using a paper towel, remove the existing thermal paste from the CPU, GPU, VRAM chips, and heatsink. You may also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol if the old paste is dried or difficult to remove.

6. Apply a small line of thermal paste directly onto the CPU chip, GPU chip, and VRAM chips.

7. Carefully replace the heatsink.
8. Replace the fan and heatsink screws, starting with #1, then #2, and so on until #13.
9. Plug the white fan connectors back into the motherboard.

Replacing the wireless card:

Your Serval WS's WiFi and Bluetooth are both handled by the same module. It is a standard M.2 2230 slot with PCIe and USB interfaces (A Key).

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the WiFi/Bluetooth module:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. If there is an M.2 SSD in the slot closest to the battery, follow the steps above to remove the M.2 SSD.
   • The other SSD can optionally be removed to make working with the wireless card easier.
3. Locate the wireless module. Remove any clear tape that is securing the wires.

4. Gently remove the two antennas (highlighted red above) by pulling them up and away from the wireless card.
5. Remove the retaining screw opposite the M.2 slot, highlighted yellow above.
6. Slide the card out of the M.2 slot, parallel with the motherboard.
7. Insert the new wireless card into the M.2 slot.
8. Replace the retaining screw.
9. Attach the two antennas by aligning the circular fittings and pressing onto the wireless card. The connectors will snap into place. Use caution when attaching the connectors; the pins can bend, break, or snap.
10. Replace the M.2 SSD, bottom cover, and battery.

Replacing the CMOS battery:

The CMOS battery supplies power to the system's CMOS chip. UEFI settings and the comptuer's hardware clock are stored on the CMOS. If your system doesn't boot, you can reset the CMOS to force a low-level hardware reset. If your clock is constantly resetting, it's likely your CMOS battery needs to be replaced.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy ●

Steps to replace the CMOS battery:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover, unplug the main battery, and remove the outermost SSD.
2. Remove the innermost SSD and remove the wireless card, then pull the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the case.
   • If you are not replacing the CMOS battery, then this step is optional.

3. Unplug the white connector that connects the CMOS battery to the motherboard.
4. To clear the CMOS, open the lid of the machine and hold down the power button for at least 15 seconds to discharge any residual energy in the system.
5. Re-connect the CMOS battery and the main battery.
6. Replace the SSDs and wireless card (if necessary) and the bottom panel.
7. Power up the Serval WS. The system may power itself off and on after initial boot; this is normal behavior when the CMOS has been reset.

Replacing the speakers:

The system has two bottom-firing speakers, which can be removed and replaced individually.

Tools required: Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver
Time estimate: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Medium ●

Steps to replace the left speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover.
2. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

3. Unscrew the two speaker screws, free the speaker wire from the channels in the chassis, and remove the speaker.
4. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard, securing the wire using the channels in the chassis.
5. Replace the bottom cover.

Steps to replace the right speaker:

1. Follow the steps above to remove the bottom cover and remove the outermost SSD.
2. Peel back any clear tape hanging onto the speaker from the wireless card.
3. Disconnect the speaker connector from the motherboard.
   • This can alternatively be done after freeing the speaker.

4. Unscrew the three speaker screws and remove the speaker.
5. Screw in the new speaker and connect it to the motherboard.
6. Replace the outermost SSD (if necessary) and bottom cover.

Thelio (thelio-b4)

• External Overview
• Internal Overview
• Parts & Repairs

The System76 Thelio is a desktop with the following specifications:

• Processor options
  • Supports Intel 12th Generation (Alder Lake) and 13th Generation (Raptor Lake) CPUs
    • Pentium Gold G7400
    • Core i3-12100
    • Core i5-12400
    • Core i5-12600K
    • Core i7-12700K
• Motherboard
  • MSI MEG Z690I UNIFY running System76 Firmware (non-open)
  • Intel Z690 chipset
• Daughterboard
  • Thelio Io board running open-source firmware
• Graphics options
  • One GPU (PCIe 4.0 x16) of up to two-slot height
  • GPU size:
    • Internal clearance: 278.175mm
    • Recommended maximum length: 268.175mm
  • Tested with the following GPUs:
    • Integrated Graphics
      • 1x HDMI 2.1, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a
    • NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030
      • 1x HDMI 2.0b, 1x DisplayPort 1.4, 1x DVI-D (single-link)
    • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650
      • 1x HDMI 2.0b, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a, 1x DVI-D (dual-link)
    • AMD Radeon RX 6500 XT
      • 1x HDMI 2.1, 1x DisplayPort 1.4a
    • AMD Radeon RX 6600
      • 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
      • 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
      • Requires 650W PSU
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti
      • 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
      • Requires 650W PSU
    • NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070
      • 1x HDMI 2.1, 3x DisplayPort 1.4a
      • Requires 650W PSU
    • NVIDIA RTX A2000
      • 4x Mini DisplayPort 1.4
      • Requires 650W PSU
    • NVIDIA RTX A4000
      • 4x DisplayPort 1.4
      • Requires 650W PSU
• Expansion
  • 1x PCIe 4.0 x16 (GPU slot)
• Memory
  • Up to 64GB (2x32GB) dual-channel DDR5 DIMMs @ 5600 MHz
  • Tested with the following RAM modules (may ship with other tested modules):
    • Crucial CT8G48C40U5 (8GB/stick)
    • Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-8 (8GB/stick)
    • Crucial CT16G48C40U5 (16GB/stick)
    • Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-16 (16GB/stick)
    • Crucial CT32G48C40U5 (32GB/stick)
    • Kingston Fury KF556C40BB-32 (32GB/stick)
• Networking
  • 1x 2.5-Gigabit Ethernet (Intel I225-V)
  • Wi-Fi 6E + Bluetooth 5.2 (Intel AX211)
• Power
  • C13 power cord
  • 450W minimum PSU
    • Some GPU configurations require 650W PSU
  • Tested with the following PSU models (may ship with other tested models):
    • EVGA SuperNOVA 450W GM 80+ Gold
    • FSP Dagger Pro 650W 80+ Gold
• Sound
  • 3.5mm line out, line in, microphone jacks
  • Up to 7.1-channel audio output
  • Realtek ALC4080 audio chipset (with Savitech SV3H712 amplifier)
  • HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C DisplayPort audio (depending on GPU)
• Storage
  • 2x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 4) SSD
    • Only active with 11th Gen CPUs.
  • 1x M.2 (PCIe NVMe Gen 3 or SATA III)
  • 4x 2.5" SATA
• USB
  • 2x USB Type-C with Thunderbolt 4
    • Does not provide a DisplayPort over USB-C signal.
    • Supports DisplayPort over USB-C passthrough when a GPU is connected to the associated Mini DisplayPort input.
  • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A
  • 4x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type-A
• Dimensions
  • 32.7cm × 20.7cm × 29.1cm

Thelio (External Overview)

Back overview:

Power Switch Guide:

• 1: On
• 0: Off

Front/side overview:

Top/bottom overview:

Thelio (Internal Overview)

Left side overview:

• CPU cooler & CPU are highlighted in red (located behind the CPU shroud)
• RAM slots are highlighted in green
• 2.5" SATA drive cage is highlighted in pink
• M.2 slots 1 and 2 are highlighted in white (located underneath the heatsink)
• GPU (in PCIe 4.0 x16 slot) is highlighted in yellow
• Power supply is highlighted in cyan
• Bottom case fan is highlighted in orange

Right side overview:

• M.2 slot 3 is highlighted in cyan
• CPU fan Y-cable connectors are highlighted in yellow

Front side overview:

• Thelio-IO connector access cutout is highlighted in green

Top overview: